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<v Speaker 1>Have you ever looked at a circuit board, you know,

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<v Speaker 1>all those tiny little bits and pieces and just felt

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<v Speaker 1>totally lost, like it's some secret code.

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<v Speaker 2>Oh yeah, Or maybe you've just had that urge, you know,

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<v Speaker 2>to tinker to make something work, or maybe fix an

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<v Speaker 2>old gadget.

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<v Speaker 1>Exactly. There's just this amazing feeling when you figure out

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<v Speaker 1>how something clicks right, adapting tech with your own hands,

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<v Speaker 1>making something new, And the best.

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<v Speaker 2>Part, you really really don't need some fancy engineering degree

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<v Speaker 2>or like tons of complex math.

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<v Speaker 1>No, not at all. It's more about just being curious

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<v Speaker 1>and having that just do it kind of attitude.

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<v Speaker 2>And that, my friend, that's exactly what we're diving into today.

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<v Speaker 2>Welcome to the deep dive.

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<v Speaker 1>Yep, we're digging into a really cool source, hacking electronics.

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<v Speaker 1>An illustrated DIY guy for makers and hobbyists.

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<v Speaker 2>Our mission basically is to cut through the noise, grab

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<v Speaker 2>the most important stuff, and give you a shortcut to

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<v Speaker 2>feeling confident with practical electronics. You're gonna have some real

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<v Speaker 2>aha moments, I think definitely.

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<v Speaker 1>So what's the plan. Well, we'll walk you through the basics,

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<v Speaker 1>like what tools you actually need, and don't worry, it's

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<v Speaker 1>not expensive.

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<v Speaker 2>And understanding the fundamentals current resistance, voltage, all that stuff.

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<v Speaker 1>Then we get to the fun parts, lighting up LEDs,

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<v Speaker 1>powering your projects.

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<v Speaker 2>We're even talking building a small robot maybe, or like

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<v Speaker 2>a toy you can control from a web page. Super cool.

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<v Speaker 1>It's all about practical hands on stuff, getting those electrons

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<v Speaker 1>doing what you want them to do. You know.

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<v Speaker 2>The core idea of this guide is really this just

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<v Speaker 2>do it philosophy for hacking electronics.

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<v Speaker 1>Right.

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<v Speaker 2>It basically says, look, the moment you decide you want

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<v Speaker 2>to build something or modify something, you're already qualified.

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<v Speaker 1>Huh. I like that?

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<v Speaker 2>Seriously. The best way, the only way really to learn,

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<v Speaker 2>is by rolling up your sleeves and just trying things.

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<v Speaker 2>And mistakes are okay, mistakes are great. They're not failures.

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<v Speaker 2>They're just learning opportunities, just as valuable as getting it

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<v Speaker 2>right the first time, maybe even more so sometimes.

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<v Speaker 1>You know, that's such a refreshing approach compared to those

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<v Speaker 1>terrified textbooks full of theory.

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<v Speaker 2>First totally, this flips it. Get your hands dirty, build something,

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<v Speaker 2>then maybe dig into the why if you're curious.

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<v Speaker 1>It taps into that natural curiosity, right. It makes it

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<v Speaker 1>feel like playing experiments.

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<v Speaker 2>Exactly and you learn faster that way. I think you

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<v Speaker 2>get an intuition for why things work and why they

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<v Speaker 2>sometimes well don't.

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<v Speaker 1>Practical intelligence love it? Okay? So getting started, people probably

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<v Speaker 1>think they need a whole lab right, expensive gear, Nah,

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<v Speaker 1>not at all.

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<v Speaker 2>That's the beauty of it. The book suggests a really minimal,

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<v Speaker 2>cheap toolkit to start, like a masic soldering iron, okay,

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<v Speaker 2>some solder a stand for the iron, important flyers, snips,

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<v Speaker 2>maybe a few screwdrivers.

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<v Speaker 1>Like basic kitchen tools, but for electronics pretty much.

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<v Speaker 2>And then the one really invaluable tool is a digital multimeter.

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<v Speaker 1>Ah, the DMM.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, and again don't need to break the bank. Under

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<v Speaker 2>twenty bucks gets you a decent one.

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<v Speaker 1>And what are the key things you'll measure with it?

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<v Speaker 2>Mostly DC volts, DC current resistance. Oh and the continuity

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<v Speaker 2>test that beeping thing super useful.

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<v Speaker 1>Gotcha okay? And for actually trying out circuits before solder.

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<v Speaker 2>Red boards SOLDERI list breadboards. They are just fantastic for

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<v Speaker 2>quickly trying designs.

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<v Speaker 1>You just poke the component legs into the les.

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<v Speaker 2>Yep, and underneath there are these metal clips connecting rows

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<v Speaker 2>of holes, so you just push wires in to connect

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<v Speaker 2>things up.

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<v Speaker 1>And you mentioned wire.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, grab some solid core wire. Different colors help a lot,

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<v Speaker 2>like use red for positive voltage, black for negative or ground.

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<v Speaker 1>Makes it easier to see what's going on.

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<v Speaker 2>Totally keep things organized. Maybe yellow or blue for signals.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, and are all wires the same, good question?

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<v Speaker 2>No, that solid core wires sometimes called hookup wire. Great

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<v Speaker 2>for breadboards because it's stiff, easy to push in, but

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<v Speaker 2>but it can break if you bend it back and

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<v Speaker 2>forth too many times.

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<v Speaker 1>Uh. Okay, So for connecting say, different modules.

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<v Speaker 2>Together, Yeah, for that, multi core wire is better. It's

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<v Speaker 2>more flexible. And hey, pro tip, you can often salvage

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<v Speaker 2>good wire from old broken electronics save some money.

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<v Speaker 1>Nice the hacker way. Yeah, and what about audio cables

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<v Speaker 1>they seem different? They are.

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<v Speaker 2>That's usually screened wire. It's designed to stop electrical noise,

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<v Speaker 2>like that annoying hum from your main's power, from messing

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<v Speaker 2>up sensitive audio signals.

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<v Speaker 1>How's it work?

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<v Speaker 2>It's clever. There's an inner wire or wires carrying the signal,

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<v Speaker 2>and that's surrounded by a woven metal sheath like a shield.

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<v Speaker 2>That shield blocks the noise.

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<v Speaker 1>Elegant. Okay, so you have wires. Yeah, you need to

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<v Speaker 1>strip the ends right, yep.

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<v Speaker 2>You can buy wire strippers, sure, but the book shows

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<v Speaker 2>you can actually do a pretty decent job with just

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<v Speaker 2>pliers and snips.

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<v Speaker 1>Takes practice, I beg It takes a little practice.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, you gotta be careful not to nick the wire

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<v Speaker 2>inside or stretch the insulation. But it works.

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<v Speaker 1>And joining wires, but if you can't soder right away.

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<v Speaker 2>Quick and dirty method, just twist them together works okay

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<v Speaker 2>for multicore wire. Twist the strands of each wire tight clockwise.

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<v Speaker 2>Then twist the two wires together, make a little knot maybe,

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<v Speaker 2>and wrap it well with PBC tape. Good temporary fix.

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<v Speaker 1>But for permanent stuff it's got to be Solder.

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<v Speaker 2>Soldering is the main skill. Really, It unlocks so much.

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<v Speaker 2>But safety first, always right.

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<v Speaker 1>Hot metal fumes exactly.

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<v Speaker 2>Hot iron means molten metal, nasty fumes. You don't want

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<v Speaker 2>to breathe, so always use a stand for the iron always, okay,

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<v Speaker 2>Wear safety glasses. Molten solder can splash seriously.

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<v Speaker 1>Ouch, okay glasses.

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<v Speaker 2>If you do get a burn, run it under cold

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<v Speaker 2>water immediately, and solder in a well ventilated space. Use

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<v Speaker 2>a small fan maybe to pull the fumes away from

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<v Speaker 2>your face.

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<v Speaker 1>Good tips. What about holding tiny components while you solder?

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<v Speaker 2>Ah? Yeah, those helping hands tools with the clips. They're

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<v Speaker 2>not essential, but man they are a great help. Highly recommend.

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<v Speaker 1>Getting some makes sense. So how do you actually solder

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<v Speaker 1>wires together?

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<v Speaker 2>Two main ways. You can do that twist we talked about.

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<v Speaker 2>Then just flow solder into the not works fine, Or

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<v Speaker 2>for a cleaner, joint, less lumpy, you tin each wire first.

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<v Speaker 2>Just coat them lightly with solder, then hold the tinned

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<v Speaker 2>end side by, heat them both with the iron and

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<v Speaker 2>let the solder fuse them. Then insulate it.

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<v Speaker 1>Of course, it's got it. And how do you check

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<v Speaker 1>if your connection is actually good or if wire is broken? Somewhere?

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<v Speaker 2>Back to the multimeter that continuity mode.

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<v Speaker 1>The beeping one, the beeping one.

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<v Speaker 2>If it beeps when you touch the probes to two points,

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<v Speaker 2>it means there's a connection. No beep, no connection, simple

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<v Speaker 2>as that.

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<v Speaker 1>What could cause a bad connection after soldering?

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<v Speaker 2>Often it's a dry joint that's where the solder didn't

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<v Speaker 2>flow properly, didn't really bond, or maybe a tiny crack

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<v Speaker 2>in a circuit board track.

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<v Speaker 1>Are those hard to fix?

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<v Speaker 2>Usually not dry joints, just reheat and add a tiny

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<v Speaker 2>bit more solder track cracks. Carefully scrape off the green

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<v Speaker 2>lacquer on either side, and bridge the gap with solder.

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<v Speaker 1>Easy pasy cool. So the book uses a project to

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<v Speaker 1>illustrate this, the fume extractor.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah it's a great first practical hack. We just talked

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<v Speaker 2>about solder fumes.

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<v Speaker 1>Being bad, right right, nasty stuff.

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<v Speaker 2>So the hack is dead simple. Take an old computer fan,

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<v Speaker 2>hook it up to a switch and a twelve volt pad.

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<v Speaker 2>Supply point it so it blows the fumes away from you.

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<v Speaker 1>Functional, not fancy.

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<v Speaker 2>Exactly, and this super simple project becomes your first lesson

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<v Speaker 2>in reading schematics. Those circuit diagrams, yeah.

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<v Speaker 1>They always look like hieroglyphics to me.

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<v Speaker 2>They can seem this way, but the book breaks it

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<v Speaker 2>down few simple rules. Positive voltage is usually shown at

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<v Speaker 2>the top. Okay, Things generally happen kind of left to

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<v Speaker 2>right like reading. Components have label like S one for switch,

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<v Speaker 2>one M for motor.

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<v Speaker 1>Ah. Okay, makes sense, And you.

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<v Speaker 2>Learn how to check power supply polarity with your multimeter.

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<v Speaker 2>Look for the dc VULT symbol the solid line over

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<v Speaker 2>the dotted line. Knowing these little visual rules makes schematics

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<v Speaker 2>way less scary.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, good, So fundamentals, let's talk about the really core stuff.

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<v Speaker 1>Current resistance, voltage. Power sounds heavy.

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<v Speaker 2>It sounds heavy, but the analogies in the book are brilliant,

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<v Speaker 2>makes it really click. Current think of electrons like little

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<v Speaker 2>balls flowing through pipes, or just current in a river.

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<v Speaker 1>So how much stuff is flowing per second?

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<v Speaker 2>Exactly measured in amps? Okay? So if current is the

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<v Speaker 2>river flow, what's resistance?

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<v Speaker 1>Ah, something slowing it down like rocks in the river.

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<v Speaker 2>Perfect a resistor resists the flow. It's like a constriction

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<v Speaker 2>a narrow part of the river. More resistance, less flow

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<v Speaker 2>measured in ohms.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, okay.

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<v Speaker 2>And voltage sticking with the river, voltage is like the

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<v Speaker 2>height difference the slope of the river bed. A bigger

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<v Speaker 2>drop in height, faster flow, more push.

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<v Speaker 1>So it's a difference between two points.

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<v Speaker 2>Always voltage is relative. You need that potential difference, that

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<v Speaker 2>drop for current to flow measured in volts.

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<v Speaker 1>Right, So how do these three current voltage resistance relate?

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<v Speaker 1>Is there like a magic formula?

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<v Speaker 2>There is, and it's probably the single most useful thing

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<v Speaker 2>in basic electronics. Ohm's law.

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<v Speaker 1>Ohm's law Okay, it's simple.

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<v Speaker 2>I equals V divided by R. Current equals voltage divided

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<v Speaker 2>by resistance.

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<v Speaker 1>I equals v R.

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<v Speaker 2>Got it. So voltage goes up, current goes up, and

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<v Speaker 2>if resistance goes.

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<v Speaker 1>Up, current goes down. Makes intuitive sense, right? Yeah?

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<v Speaker 2>Actually it does. Can you give a quick examp numbers?

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<v Speaker 1>Sure? Say you have ten volts across a one hundred

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<v Speaker 1>OM resistor. Ten divided by one hundred is point one,

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<v Speaker 1>so point one amps or one hundred million amps of

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<v Speaker 1>current will flow.

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<v Speaker 2>Okay, I see how that works. Simple relationship. What about power?

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<v Speaker 1>Power is basically energy being used or transformed, usually into

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<v Speaker 1>heat over time. As current flows through resistance, things can

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<v Speaker 1>get warm.

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<v Speaker 2>And there's a formula for that too.

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<v Speaker 1>Yep. The main one is P equals I times V.

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<v Speaker 1>Power equals current times voltage measured in watts ev. You

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<v Speaker 1>also see p I squared R or PV squared over R.

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<v Speaker 1>Same thing, just rearranged using Ohm's law.

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<v Speaker 2>Why is knowing the power important? Because components have limits.

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<v Speaker 2>Every resistor, every chip has a maximum power rating. Exceed

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<v Speaker 2>it and dot poof it burns out uh one poof

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<v Speaker 2>definitely not. And the book has this great table of

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<v Speaker 2>household appliance power like an electric kettle three thousand watts.

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<v Speaker 1>Whoa yeah, and.

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<v Speaker 2>That's why you don't see battery powered kettles. Right a

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<v Speaker 2>little AA battery you just can't pump out that kind power.

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<v Speaker 2>It's theory meeting.

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<v Speaker 1>Reality makes total sense. Okay, So quick recap on schematics,

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<v Speaker 1>then the diagrams.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, worth repeating rule one positive voltage usually up top,

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<v Speaker 2>rule two, action flows left or right?

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<v Speaker 1>Got it.

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<v Speaker 2>Component names are systematic b one for battery one, are

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<v Speaker 2>one for resistor one, see one for capacitor one, and

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<v Speaker 2>so on, and their values are written right there. It's

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<v Speaker 2>a visual language.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay. Feeling a bit more confident about the basics. Now,

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<v Speaker 1>let's talk about something flashy, literally LEDs, light emitting dios.

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<v Speaker 2>Ah, Yes, LEDs. Everyone loves blinky lights. They're delicate little things.

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<v Speaker 1>Elected.

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<v Speaker 2>How you cannot just connect an LED straight to a battery,

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<v Speaker 2>Well you can, but only once. It'll blow instantly.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay.

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<v Speaker 2>What they need a specific limited amount of current? Too

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<v Speaker 2>much and they burn out. So you always need a

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<v Speaker 2>current limiting resistor in series with them.

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<v Speaker 1>And how do you figure out the right resistor? Back

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<v Speaker 1>to alms law?

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<v Speaker 2>You got it? You need to know the LED's forward voltage.

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<v Speaker 2>That's the voltage it uses up when it's on. For

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<v Speaker 2>a typical red LED, maybe around two volts. Okay, you

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<v Speaker 2>subtract that from your battery voltage and then use Ohm's

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<v Speaker 2>law r v A guy to calculate the resistor value

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<v Speaker 2>needed to limit the current.

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<v Speaker 1>How much current do they typically need?

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<v Speaker 2>Usually somewhere between ten and twenty million ams is good

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<v Speaker 2>for brightness. Just check the data sheets so you don't

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<v Speaker 2>exceed its maximum rating, often around twenty five na.

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<v Speaker 1>Right, Okay, here's a mistake I bit people make. Can

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<v Speaker 1>you wire up like five LEDs in parallel and just

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<v Speaker 1>use one resistor for all of them?

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<v Speaker 2>Ah, the classic parallel LAED trap.

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<v Speaker 1>No, definitely don't do that when it seems efficient.

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<v Speaker 2>Because LEDs aren't perfectly identical. One will always have a

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<v Speaker 2>slightly lower forward voltage than the others. That one will

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<v Speaker 2>hog most of the current and poof, then the next

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<v Speaker 2>one goes and so on cascade failure.

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<v Speaker 1>Yikes. So the rule is.

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<v Speaker 2>Always, always use a separate series resistor for each individual

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<v Speaker 2>LED or series string of LEDs every time.

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<v Speaker 1>No exceptions, got it. So LEDs aren't just little red

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<v Speaker 1>indicator lights.

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<v Speaker 2>Right, Oh gosh, no, they come in every color. Imagine

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<v Speaker 2>different shape sizes, brightness levels, that's luminous intensity. You even

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<v Speaker 2>get RGB LED's.

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<v Speaker 1>Red, green, blue, yep.

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<v Speaker 2>Combine those three in one package and you can mix

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<v Speaker 2>basically any color you want.

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<v Speaker 1>Cool and what about light we can't see.

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<v Speaker 2>Right, infra red LEDs. Ir LEDs like in your TV

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<v Speaker 2>remote and UV ultramolet LEDs use for things like curing

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<v Speaker 2>resins or spotting counterfeit money.

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<v Speaker 1>What about really bright LEDs like for lighting.

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<v Speaker 2>High power LEDs. Yeah, they're a different beasts. They generate

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<v Speaker 2>a lot of heat, so they absolutely need heat sinks,

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<v Speaker 2>and you don't usually power them with just a resistor.

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<v Speaker 2>Use a constant current driver circuit, often based on an

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<v Speaker 2>IC like the LM three seventeen, and make sure the

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<v Speaker 2>LED gets the exact current it needs regardless of voltage changes.

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<v Speaker 2>Use more complex a little yeah, but necessary for those

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<v Speaker 2>high power ones. And if you're using a bunch of

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<v Speaker 2>LEDs together, the book suggests actually measuring their forward voltage

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<v Speaker 2>first with a multimeter and a variable resistor helps keep

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<v Speaker 2>the brightness consist.

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<v Speaker 1>Smart okay, project time. How about making LED's flash perfect application?

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<v Speaker 2>The book introduces a super useful little chip, the five

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<v Speaker 2>to five to five timer.

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<v Speaker 1>I see the five five to five heard of it?

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<v Speaker 2>Versatile, incredibly versatile, great for making LED's flash, making sounds,

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<v Speaker 2>timing things. Just a brilliant little building block. You can

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<v Speaker 2>whip up an LED flasher circuit on a bread board

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<v Speaker 2>in minute.

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<v Speaker 1>Cool that breadboards aren't permanent, right.

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<v Speaker 2>Wires fall out exactly, great for testing, but not for

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<v Speaker 2>a finished project. That's where strip board comes out.

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<v Speaker 1>Strip Board, Okay, what's that?

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<v Speaker 2>It's like a general purpose circuit board. It's got parallel

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<v Speaker 2>strips of copper running along one side. You solder your

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<v Speaker 2>components onto it, making connections via the strips.

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<v Speaker 1>So more permanent than breadboard, much more robust.

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<v Speaker 2>But you have to plan your layout a bit more carefully.

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<v Speaker 2>You figure out where components go based on your schematic.

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<v Speaker 1>And you mentioned cutting tracks.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, sometimes you need to break a copper strip to

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<v Speaker 2>stop a connection. You just use a small drill bit

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<v Speaker 2>twist it by hand to cut the track.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, so how do you build that five fifty five

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<v Speaker 1>flasher on strip board?

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<v Speaker 2>You'd plan the layout, maybe, sketch it out, cut the

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00:14:03.840 --> 00:14:07.879
<v Speaker 2>board to size, make any track cuts needed. Then solder

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00:14:07.879 --> 00:14:11.279
<v Speaker 2>things in order. Start with the lowest components like wirelings to.

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00:14:11.360 --> 00:14:13.799
<v Speaker 1>Resistors so they don't get in the way later, right.

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00:14:14.000 --> 00:14:18.960
<v Speaker 2>Then maybe the icy socket, then taller things like capacitors, LEDs, connectors,

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00:14:19.000 --> 00:14:23.159
<v Speaker 2>and always always check carefully for solder bridges or mistakes

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<v Speaker 2>before powering it up.

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<v Speaker 1>Good habit. Okay, a more advanced LED project.

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<v Speaker 2>Slot cars, Yeah, this one's fun. Hack a toy slot

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<v Speaker 2>car to add working headlights and brake light.

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<v Speaker 1>Brake lights. How do they work?

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<v Speaker 2>It uses a capacitor that's an electronic component that stores charge.

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<v Speaker 2>When the car has power, A diode charges the capacitor. Okay,

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<v Speaker 2>when you let off the power, the track goes dead,

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00:14:43.919 --> 00:14:47.440
<v Speaker 2>but the charge capacitor then discharges through the brake light LEDs,

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<v Speaker 2>keeping them lit for a second or two.

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<v Speaker 1>That's clever, like regenerative breaking, but just for lights kind of.

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<v Speaker 2>It's a neat little circuit shows how you can combine

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00:14:55.000 --> 00:14:58.159
<v Speaker 2>components for cool effects, and LEDs are perfect because they're

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<v Speaker 2>small enough to fit in the car.

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<v Speaker 1>Right, Okay, powering these creations, every project needs juice.

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<v Speaker 2>Batteries seem obvious obvious, but there's a bit to consider.

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<v Speaker 2>Key things are capacity. That's them millionamp hours basically how

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00:15:10.399 --> 00:15:14.120
<v Speaker 2>much energy it stores and it's maximum discharge rate. How

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00:15:14.159 --> 00:15:17.600
<v Speaker 2>fast can you pull power out? Batteries have internal resistance.

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00:15:18.120 --> 00:15:19.559
<v Speaker 2>Try to draw too much current and.

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00:15:19.519 --> 00:15:21.440
<v Speaker 1>They get hot, sometimes dangerously hot.

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00:15:21.480 --> 00:15:25.360
<v Speaker 2>You mentioned especially Leipo batteries. Yeah, need respect, but the

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<v Speaker 2>book has this great hacking spirit advice. Sometimes just try it.

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<v Speaker 2>See how hot it gets, how long it lasts?

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<v Speaker 1>Learned by doing within reason Hopefully. What if one battery

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<v Speaker 1>isn't enough voltage.

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<v Speaker 2>Easy put them in series in a battery holder end

347
00:15:39.799 --> 00:15:43.480
<v Speaker 2>to end their voltages add up. Just remember rechargeable cells

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<v Speaker 2>often have slightly lower voltage than single use ones. Like

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<v Speaker 2>a rechargeable AA is one point two V not one

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00:15:49.799 --> 00:15:50.519
<v Speaker 2>point five V.

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00:15:50.679 --> 00:15:52.799
<v Speaker 1>Good point. And there are different types of batteries.

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00:15:52.480 --> 00:15:56.039
<v Speaker 2>Right loads single use you've got your standard alkaline, lithium,

353
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<v Speaker 2>higher energy density, zinc, air, silver oxide, and recharge. Common

354
00:16:00.639 --> 00:16:05.840
<v Speaker 2>ones are NIMMH nickel metal hydride, LiPo lithium polymer very

355
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<v Speaker 2>popular now, and sealed lead acid like in cars or

356
00:16:09.159 --> 00:16:13.279
<v Speaker 2>backup systems. Rosen cons quick rundown. NIMMH is decent costwaight,

357
00:16:13.399 --> 00:16:16.720
<v Speaker 2>but self discharges kind of quickly. LiPo is light, lots

358
00:16:16.720 --> 00:16:20.360
<v Speaker 2>of power for its size, low self discharge, but can

359
00:16:20.399 --> 00:16:24.080
<v Speaker 2>be fiery if mistreated and of care definitely sealed. Lead

360
00:16:24.120 --> 00:16:27.679
<v Speaker 2>acid is heavy and bulky, but cheap, tough, and pretty

361
00:16:27.720 --> 00:16:29.879
<v Speaker 2>forgiving if you accidentally overcharge it a.

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00:16:29.799 --> 00:16:33.519
<v Speaker 1>Bit okay, charging them sounds like another potential pitfall. What's

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<v Speaker 1>the sea rate?

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00:16:34.399 --> 00:16:37.159
<v Speaker 2>Sea just stands for capacity, So a one C charge

365
00:16:37.200 --> 00:16:39.480
<v Speaker 2>rate means you're charging it at a current equal to

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00:16:39.519 --> 00:16:42.919
<v Speaker 2>its capacity, theoretically charging it in one hour point one

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00:16:43.000 --> 00:16:46.320
<v Speaker 2>CE means charging at one tenth capacity taking about ten hours.

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00:16:46.519 --> 00:16:48.320
<v Speaker 1>And you mentioned overcharging is bad.

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<v Speaker 2>Very bad for most types, causes damage, overheating LiPo especially

370
00:16:52.279 --> 00:16:55.399
<v Speaker 2>doesn't like it, and over discharging running them completely flat

371
00:16:55.480 --> 00:16:56.960
<v Speaker 2>is also bad for their lifespan.

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<v Speaker 1>So trickle charging.

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<v Speaker 2>Trickle charging is just a very slow, gentle charge safer

374
00:17:02.480 --> 00:17:07.640
<v Speaker 2>for some types, helps avoid overcharging. Many modern batteries, especially lipos,

375
00:17:07.680 --> 00:17:10.000
<v Speaker 2>have protection circuits built in now, which helps.

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00:17:10.079 --> 00:17:11.519
<v Speaker 1>Do we chargeables last forever?

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00:17:11.880 --> 00:17:15.240
<v Speaker 2>Nope? They have a limited number of charge discharge cycles,

378
00:17:15.599 --> 00:17:18.200
<v Speaker 2>maybe five hundred times give or take, before they really

379
00:17:18.200 --> 00:17:20.960
<v Speaker 2>start to lose capacity. Something to keep in mind.

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00:17:21.039 --> 00:17:22.480
<v Speaker 1>How do you charge specific types?

381
00:17:22.519 --> 00:17:25.079
<v Speaker 2>Then the MH You can trickle charge simply with a

382
00:17:25.119 --> 00:17:28.200
<v Speaker 2>power supply and a resistor. Calculate the right resistor using

383
00:17:28.279 --> 00:17:31.799
<v Speaker 2>Ohm's law. Fast charging needs a proper charger let acid

384
00:17:32.079 --> 00:17:35.839
<v Speaker 2>less fussy can trickle charge or charge faster with a

385
00:17:35.880 --> 00:17:38.720
<v Speaker 2>fixed voltage like fourteen point four V for a twelve

386
00:17:38.759 --> 00:17:40.599
<v Speaker 2>V battery, but with current.

387
00:17:40.440 --> 00:17:43.279
<v Speaker 1>Limiting and lipos the tricky ones.

388
00:17:43.160 --> 00:17:46.480
<v Speaker 2>Very specific needs a fixed voltage exactly four point two

389
00:17:46.559 --> 00:17:49.599
<v Speaker 2>V per cell and limited current. Crucially, you cannot charge

390
00:17:49.640 --> 00:17:52.440
<v Speaker 2>multiple LICO cells and series with a simple charger. You

391
00:17:52.480 --> 00:17:55.200
<v Speaker 2>need to charge each cell individually or use a balanced

392
00:17:55.279 --> 00:17:56.920
<v Speaker 2>charger and no trickle charging.

393
00:17:56.960 --> 00:18:00.000
<v Speaker 1>Wow, okay, good to know. What about using old phone batteries?

394
00:18:00.039 --> 00:18:01.240
<v Speaker 1>People have those lying around?

395
00:18:01.440 --> 00:18:05.160
<v Speaker 2>Yeah? Great hack. You can often salvage and reuse old

396
00:18:05.240 --> 00:18:07.839
<v Speaker 2>cell phone lip bo batteries. Just be a little careful.

397
00:18:07.920 --> 00:18:10.559
<v Speaker 2>Older ones might not have the same safety cutoff circuits

398
00:18:10.559 --> 00:18:13.039
<v Speaker 2>as new ones. Test them cautiously right now.

399
00:18:13.319 --> 00:18:16.440
<v Speaker 1>Batteries don't maintain constant voltage, do they. They droop as.

400
00:18:16.279 --> 00:18:20.160
<v Speaker 2>They discharge exactly, and that voltage drop can cause problems

401
00:18:20.160 --> 00:18:23.160
<v Speaker 2>for sensitive electronics, especially digital chips that need a very

402
00:18:23.200 --> 00:18:25.440
<v Speaker 2>specific voltage like three point three V.

403
00:18:25.759 --> 00:18:27.680
<v Speaker 1>So how do you get a steady voltage from a

404
00:18:27.799 --> 00:18:29.160
<v Speaker 1>dropping battery.

405
00:18:29.039 --> 00:18:33.359
<v Speaker 2>Voltage regulators cheap common three pin ICs like a seven

406
00:18:33.400 --> 00:18:36.559
<v Speaker 2>eight oh five that takes a variable input SA seven

407
00:18:36.640 --> 00:18:39.160
<v Speaker 2>V to twenty five V and spits out a rock

408
00:18:39.200 --> 00:18:42.440
<v Speaker 2>solid five folds magic pretty much, usually at a couple

409
00:18:42.440 --> 00:18:44.960
<v Speaker 2>of small capacitors with them for stability, And if the

410
00:18:44.960 --> 00:18:47.920
<v Speaker 2>difference between your battery voltage and desired voltage is small,

411
00:18:48.119 --> 00:18:51.279
<v Speaker 2>look for LDO regulators low drop out. They're more efficient

412
00:18:51.279 --> 00:18:51.799
<v Speaker 2>in that case.

413
00:18:51.880 --> 00:18:55.240
<v Speaker 1>Okay, calculating battery life seems complex, it.

414
00:18:55.160 --> 00:18:57.599
<v Speaker 2>Can be surprising. The book uses this example of an

415
00:18:57.640 --> 00:19:00.839
<v Speaker 2>automatic chicken coop door opener. You've got a motor that

416
00:19:00.920 --> 00:19:03.920
<v Speaker 2>runs briefly twice a day using a burst of power.

417
00:19:04.119 --> 00:19:06.880
<v Speaker 2>But you've also got the control circuit, the brain, which

418
00:19:06.880 --> 00:19:09.440
<v Speaker 2>is on all the time, sipping a tiny.

419
00:19:09.160 --> 00:19:10.960
<v Speaker 1>Amount of current in the surprises.

420
00:19:11.079 --> 00:19:14.559
<v Speaker 2>The surprise is that the controller's constant low power drain

421
00:19:14.640 --> 00:19:17.759
<v Speaker 2>adds up to way more total energy used per day

422
00:19:18.160 --> 00:19:21.279
<v Speaker 2>than the motor's short high power bursts. So a set

423
00:19:21.279 --> 00:19:24.640
<v Speaker 2>of AA batteries might last months mostly drained by that

424
00:19:24.720 --> 00:19:25.480
<v Speaker 2>always on part.

425
00:19:25.519 --> 00:19:31.559
<v Speaker 1>Wow, that's counterintuitive. Good lesson. Okay. Shifting gears solar cells

426
00:19:31.680 --> 00:19:34.000
<v Speaker 1>free power from the sun sounds amazing.

427
00:19:34.240 --> 00:19:38.440
<v Speaker 2>It is amazing, but tempering your expectations slightly. They often

428
00:19:38.480 --> 00:19:41.480
<v Speaker 2>produce fairly small amounts of electricity, especially indoors.

429
00:19:41.640 --> 00:19:44.039
<v Speaker 1>They need direct sunlight pretty much.

430
00:19:43.799 --> 00:19:46.720
<v Speaker 2>A good clear view of the sky best for low

431
00:19:46.720 --> 00:19:49.839
<v Speaker 2>power projects that live outdoors. Bigger panels are just lots

432
00:19:49.839 --> 00:19:52.279
<v Speaker 2>of small cells wired together to get useful voltage.

433
00:19:52.319 --> 00:19:54.079
<v Speaker 1>How do you know how much power you'll actually get?

434
00:19:54.240 --> 00:19:56.799
<v Speaker 2>Test it, don't just trust the label. The book suggests

435
00:19:56.799 --> 00:19:59.599
<v Speaker 2>connecting a resistor a dummy load across the panel and

436
00:19:59.599 --> 00:20:03.400
<v Speaker 2>measuring the voltage and current under real conditions shade, clouds,

437
00:20:03.480 --> 00:20:05.960
<v Speaker 2>direct sun. Maybe log it into spreadsheet.

438
00:20:06.000 --> 00:20:09.240
<v Speaker 1>You'll learn a lot good advice. Can you charge batteries

439
00:20:09.240 --> 00:20:09.759
<v Speaker 1>with solar?

440
00:20:10.039 --> 00:20:13.359
<v Speaker 2>Absolutely, that's a common use, usually trickle charging. Yeah, but

441
00:20:14.200 --> 00:20:17.200
<v Speaker 2>you must use a diode between the panel and the battery.

442
00:20:17.319 --> 00:20:20.640
<v Speaker 2>Why the diode to stop the battery current flowing backwards

443
00:20:20.640 --> 00:20:23.400
<v Speaker 2>into the solar panel at night or in heavy shade.

444
00:20:23.680 --> 00:20:24.880
<v Speaker 2>It protects the panel.

445
00:20:25.079 --> 00:20:28.039
<v Speaker 1>What kind of battery works well with solar trickle charging?

446
00:20:28.440 --> 00:20:31.319
<v Speaker 2>Lead acid is often used because it's pretty tolerant of

447
00:20:31.359 --> 00:20:34.799
<v Speaker 2>being gently overcharged, which can happen on very sunny days.

448
00:20:35.000 --> 00:20:37.680
<v Speaker 1>And the key takeaway for solar projects.

449
00:20:37.599 --> 00:20:41.400
<v Speaker 2>Minimize power consumption. Every little bit counts when your power

450
00:20:41.440 --> 00:20:44.440
<v Speaker 2>source is sunshine. Make your circuit sleep when it can

451
00:20:44.720 --> 00:20:45.920
<v Speaker 2>use efficient components.

452
00:20:46.119 --> 00:20:49.039
<v Speaker 1>Makes sense. Okay, let's talk about the brain Arduino. This

453
00:20:49.039 --> 00:20:51.440
<v Speaker 1>feels like where things get really powerful.

454
00:20:51.200 --> 00:20:54.319
<v Speaker 2>Totally micro controllers. These little computers on a chip were

455
00:20:54.359 --> 00:20:58.240
<v Speaker 2>around before our Dueno, but Arduino made them accessible, easy

456
00:20:58.240 --> 00:21:02.200
<v Speaker 2>to program, great for hobbyists, artists. Makers just blew the

457
00:21:02.240 --> 00:21:02.759
<v Speaker 2>doors open.

458
00:21:02.880 --> 00:21:06.440
<v Speaker 1>So first steps the hello world of r tweno.

459
00:21:06.440 --> 00:21:09.119
<v Speaker 2>Linking an LED. There's usually one built right onto the

460
00:21:09.119 --> 00:21:12.240
<v Speaker 2>board labeled L. You use the Arduino software, the.

461
00:21:12.240 --> 00:21:14.680
<v Speaker 1>IDE Integrated Development Environment.

462
00:21:15.000 --> 00:21:17.240
<v Speaker 2>Right, you write a simple program called a sketch.

463
00:21:17.440 --> 00:21:17.839
<v Speaker 1>Cute.

464
00:21:18.000 --> 00:21:20.400
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, you tell the IDE what board you have like

465
00:21:20.400 --> 00:21:23.839
<v Speaker 2>an Ardueno Uno. You upload the sketch via USB. Watch

466
00:21:23.880 --> 00:21:27.960
<v Speaker 2>the little rxtx lights flicker and boom, Your LED starts blinking,

467
00:21:28.599 --> 00:21:29.680
<v Speaker 2>super satisfying.

468
00:21:30.079 --> 00:21:33.240
<v Speaker 1>What's in that basic blink sketch? Is it hard to understand?

469
00:21:33.680 --> 00:21:36.240
<v Speaker 2>Not at all? You'll see comments notes for humans that

470
00:21:36.279 --> 00:21:39.839
<v Speaker 2>the Arduino ignores. Then commands like pin mode to set

471
00:21:39.839 --> 00:21:43.400
<v Speaker 2>a pin as output digital, right to turn the LED

472
00:21:43.640 --> 00:21:48.319
<v Speaker 2>high on or low, e off, and delay to pause

473
00:21:48.319 --> 00:21:49.680
<v Speaker 2>for milliseconds.

474
00:21:49.119 --> 00:21:50.119
<v Speaker 1>And there are two main parts.

475
00:21:50.200 --> 00:21:53.079
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, set up and loose exactly. Set up runs once

476
00:21:53.119 --> 00:21:55.799
<v Speaker 2>when it starts up, sets things up. Loop runs over

477
00:21:55.839 --> 00:21:58.039
<v Speaker 2>and over and over again forever. That's where your main

478
00:21:58.079 --> 00:21:58.599
<v Speaker 2>action goes.

479
00:21:58.640 --> 00:22:00.319
<v Speaker 1>And you can change the delay ember and see the

480
00:22:00.319 --> 00:22:01.440
<v Speaker 1>blink speed change.

481
00:22:01.160 --> 00:22:04.720
<v Speaker 2>Instantly, instantly upload again, and it blinks faster or slower.

482
00:22:05.039 --> 00:22:07.119
<v Speaker 2>That immediate feedback is awesome for learning.

483
00:22:07.359 --> 00:22:09.920
<v Speaker 1>Okay, blinking is cool. But how do you make arduino

484
00:22:10.039 --> 00:22:13.440
<v Speaker 1>interact with bigger things like mains voltage stuff?

485
00:22:13.480 --> 00:22:16.400
<v Speaker 2>Ah, good question. Use a relay. Think of it as

486
00:22:16.400 --> 00:22:17.720
<v Speaker 2>an electrically controlled switch.

487
00:22:17.759 --> 00:22:20.519
<v Speaker 1>So the arduino sends a small signal to the relay YEP.

488
00:22:20.839 --> 00:22:24.079
<v Speaker 2>The ardueno's low power output pin maybe five V twenty

489
00:22:24.200 --> 00:22:27.319
<v Speaker 2>m A activates an electromagnet inside the relay, and.

490
00:22:27.240 --> 00:22:29.720
<v Speaker 1>That flips a bigger switch inside exactly.

491
00:22:29.759 --> 00:22:32.240
<v Speaker 2>A switch that can handle a high power, high voltage

492
00:22:32.400 --> 00:22:36.039
<v Speaker 2>like ten amps at one hundred and twenty volts AC easily.

493
00:22:36.720 --> 00:22:39.359
<v Speaker 2>Usually need a small transistor to help the arduino drive

494
00:22:39.400 --> 00:22:41.799
<v Speaker 2>the relay coil, and a diode for protection.

495
00:22:42.039 --> 00:22:43.839
<v Speaker 1>So you could write a sketch to turn a lamp

496
00:22:43.880 --> 00:22:45.519
<v Speaker 1>on and off every few seconds.

497
00:22:45.160 --> 00:22:49.440
<v Speaker 2>Totally, or hack a toy Ooh tell me more. The

498
00:22:49.480 --> 00:22:52.799
<v Speaker 2>book suggests taking a simple battery powered toy, finding its

499
00:22:52.839 --> 00:22:56.599
<v Speaker 2>power wires, cutting one and wiring those cut INDs through

500
00:22:56.640 --> 00:22:59.759
<v Speaker 2>the relay contacts. Now your Ardueno sketch can turn the

501
00:22:59.759 --> 00:23:00.720
<v Speaker 2>toy on and off.

502
00:23:00.759 --> 00:23:04.160
<v Speaker 1>That's brilliant, giving our dueno control over everyday objects. Yeah,

503
00:23:04.200 --> 00:23:05.960
<v Speaker 1>how do you tell the ardweno when to turn the

504
00:23:06.000 --> 00:23:06.839
<v Speaker 1>toy on or off?

505
00:23:07.079 --> 00:23:09.680
<v Speaker 2>Use the serial monitor in the ardueno ide. It's like

506
00:23:09.680 --> 00:23:12.440
<v Speaker 2>a little chat window between your computer and the ardueno.

507
00:23:12.200 --> 00:23:13.240
<v Speaker 1>So you can type commands.

508
00:23:13.319 --> 00:23:15.680
<v Speaker 2>Yep, you could write your sketch. So if it receives

509
00:23:15.680 --> 00:23:18.240
<v Speaker 2>the character one over the serial connection, it turns the

510
00:23:18.279 --> 00:23:21.200
<v Speaker 2>relay on toy on. If it receives zero, it turns

511
00:23:21.200 --> 00:23:21.519
<v Speaker 2>it off.

512
00:23:21.680 --> 00:23:25.920
<v Speaker 1>Direct control from your keyboard. Nice. Can our Dweno sense

513
00:23:26.000 --> 00:23:27.599
<v Speaker 1>things too, like voltage levels?

514
00:23:27.839 --> 00:23:31.839
<v Speaker 2>Absolutely? It has analog input pins usually labeled A zero,

515
00:23:32.000 --> 00:23:34.519
<v Speaker 2>A one, et cetera. They can read a voltage between

516
00:23:34.640 --> 00:23:36.400
<v Speaker 2>zero and five volts usually.

517
00:23:36.640 --> 00:23:37.359
<v Speaker 1>How would you use that?

518
00:23:37.599 --> 00:23:41.519
<v Speaker 2>Simple example? Connect a variable resistor like a volume knob

519
00:23:41.640 --> 00:23:44.799
<v Speaker 2>or a true po as a voltage divider. Connect the

520
00:23:44.839 --> 00:23:48.440
<v Speaker 2>middle pin to an analog input. As you turn the knob,

521
00:23:48.519 --> 00:23:51.240
<v Speaker 2>the voltage changes, and the Ardweno reads it as a

522
00:23:51.319 --> 00:23:54.359
<v Speaker 2>number between zero and three to zero ten twenty.

523
00:23:54.039 --> 00:23:56.960
<v Speaker 1>Three, so it can read the position of a knob exactly.

524
00:23:57.000 --> 00:23:59.519
<v Speaker 2>You can see the number change live in the serial monitor.

525
00:23:59.720 --> 00:24:01.920
<v Speaker 2>It's how Ardueno senses variable inputs.

526
00:24:02.119 --> 00:24:04.480
<v Speaker 1>What about outputs? Can it do more than just on off?

527
00:24:04.559 --> 00:24:05.839
<v Speaker 1>Like dimming an led.

528
00:24:06.039 --> 00:24:08.480
<v Speaker 2>Yes, using PWM pulsewith modulation.

529
00:24:08.640 --> 00:24:10.759
<v Speaker 1>We mentioned that briefly flickering really fast.

530
00:24:10.559 --> 00:24:12.680
<v Speaker 2>Super fast on certain ur Adreeno pins. You can use

531
00:24:12.680 --> 00:24:14.960
<v Speaker 2>the analog rate command. You give it a number between

532
00:24:15.319 --> 00:24:19.000
<v Speaker 2>zero fully off and two hundred and fifty five fully on.

533
00:24:19.039 --> 00:24:21.200
<v Speaker 1>And values in between give you difven brightness levels.

534
00:24:21.240 --> 00:24:24.160
<v Speaker 2>Correct. The Arduino pulses the pin on and off very rapidly,

535
00:24:24.400 --> 00:24:26.799
<v Speaker 2>changing the ratio of on time to off time. Your

536
00:24:26.799 --> 00:24:29.519
<v Speaker 2>eye averages it out, perceives it as dimming. Very useful.

537
00:24:29.559 --> 00:24:30.400
<v Speaker 1>Can it make sounds?

538
00:24:30.799 --> 00:24:34.680
<v Speaker 2>Yep. If you connect a small speaker or piazo sounder

539
00:24:34.799 --> 00:24:37.559
<v Speaker 2>to a digital pin, you can turn the pin on

540
00:24:37.640 --> 00:24:41.079
<v Speaker 2>and off rapidly at different frequencies to create musical tones. No,

541
00:24:41.440 --> 00:24:43.839
<v Speaker 2>there's a tone function. You tell it the pin number

542
00:24:43.880 --> 00:24:46.400
<v Speaker 2>and the frequency and hurts for the note you want. No,

543
00:24:46.519 --> 00:24:48.720
<v Speaker 2>tone turns it off. You can easily make a little

544
00:24:48.759 --> 00:24:49.880
<v Speaker 2>two buttons synth.

545
00:24:49.759 --> 00:24:53.720
<v Speaker 1>Fun And you mentioned shields earlier ways to add capabilities.

546
00:24:53.880 --> 00:24:56.559
<v Speaker 2>Yeah. Shields are premade boards that just plug right on

547
00:24:56.559 --> 00:25:02.839
<v Speaker 2>top of the r dueno. There are shields for motor control, Ethernet, networking, LCD, screens, GPS,

548
00:25:03.279 --> 00:25:07.039
<v Speaker 2>tons of stuff. Makes adding complex functions much easier.

549
00:25:06.680 --> 00:25:08.359
<v Speaker 1>Like controlling that relay over the Internet.

550
00:25:08.480 --> 00:25:11.799
<v Speaker 2>Exactly. Slap on an Ethernet shield, connect it to your network,

551
00:25:11.839 --> 00:25:14.480
<v Speaker 2>and your Arduino can become a tiny web server.

552
00:25:14.720 --> 00:25:16.880
<v Speaker 1>So you could pull up a web page on your phone.

553
00:25:16.599 --> 00:25:18.519
<v Speaker 2>And click a button on the page to turn your

554
00:25:18.559 --> 00:25:21.359
<v Speaker 2>hack toy on or off from anywhere on your network.

555
00:25:21.400 --> 00:25:23.359
<v Speaker 1>That's seriously cool. You're setting that up hard.

556
00:25:23.599 --> 00:25:26.200
<v Speaker 2>It involves a bit more coding. You need to configure

557
00:25:26.200 --> 00:25:31.079
<v Speaker 2>the network settings, MSESE address, IP address. The arduinos sketch

558
00:25:31.160 --> 00:25:34.319
<v Speaker 2>uses libraries pre written code to handle the web server stuff.

559
00:25:34.720 --> 00:25:37.640
<v Speaker 2>It listens for browser requests and sends back the HTML

560
00:25:37.680 --> 00:25:40.440
<v Speaker 2>for the page, including buttons that send commands back to

561
00:25:40.480 --> 00:25:41.000
<v Speaker 2>the Arduino.

562
00:25:41.200 --> 00:25:46.039
<v Speaker 1>Wow. Okay. Movement servos step promotors, what's the difference.

563
00:25:46.240 --> 00:25:49.839
<v Speaker 2>Servos are for precise position control over a limited range

564
00:25:49.920 --> 00:25:52.599
<v Speaker 2>usually like zero to one hundred and eighty degrees. Think

565
00:25:52.880 --> 00:25:54.359
<v Speaker 2>robot arms steering.

566
00:25:54.519 --> 00:25:55.359
<v Speaker 1>How do you control them?

567
00:25:55.400 --> 00:25:58.480
<v Speaker 2>You send them specific electrical pulses. The width of the

568
00:25:58.480 --> 00:26:01.319
<v Speaker 2>pulse tells the servo what angled go to. The Arduino

569
00:26:01.400 --> 00:26:03.400
<v Speaker 2>servile library makes this super.

570
00:26:03.119 --> 00:26:05.240
<v Speaker 1>Easy, okay, And stepper motors.

571
00:26:05.279 --> 00:26:10.160
<v Speaker 2>Steppers are for precise incremental rotation. I think three D printers,

572
00:26:10.240 --> 00:26:12.640
<v Speaker 2>CNC machines. They move in dioscrete.

573
00:26:12.240 --> 00:26:14.000
<v Speaker 1>Steps also controlled by Ardwena.

574
00:26:14.160 --> 00:26:16.839
<v Speaker 2>Yep. You need a driver module, often an h bridge

575
00:26:16.839 --> 00:26:19.279
<v Speaker 2>like we discussed for DC motors, because you have to

576
00:26:19.400 --> 00:26:22.200
<v Speaker 2>energize their internal coils in a specific sequence to make

577
00:26:22.240 --> 00:26:23.640
<v Speaker 2>them step forward or backward.

578
00:26:23.759 --> 00:26:26.799
<v Speaker 1>Gotcha? What about driving lots of LEDs with few pins?

579
00:26:26.960 --> 00:26:27.880
<v Speaker 1>Seemed impossible?

580
00:26:28.359 --> 00:26:30.519
<v Speaker 2>Ah, Charlie plexing It's a very clever trick.

581
00:26:31.200 --> 00:26:33.200
<v Speaker 1>How does it work? Sounds like magic?

582
00:26:33.599 --> 00:26:35.920
<v Speaker 2>It kind of feels like it. You rapidly switch the

583
00:26:36.039 --> 00:26:40.400
<v Speaker 2>Arduen pins between being outputs high or a low and

584
00:26:40.960 --> 00:26:44.799
<v Speaker 2>inputs high impedance kind of like disconnected. By doing this

585
00:26:44.920 --> 00:26:47.640
<v Speaker 2>very quickly, you can light up one specific LED at

586
00:26:47.640 --> 00:26:50.240
<v Speaker 2>a time while the others connected to the same pins

587
00:26:50.240 --> 00:26:53.240
<v Speaker 2>are effectively off or ignored. Your eye sees them all

588
00:26:53.240 --> 00:26:55.640
<v Speaker 2>blinking so fast it looks like many are on at once.

589
00:26:55.799 --> 00:26:59.880
<v Speaker 1>Wow, brain hurts slightly. What's special about the Arduino Leonardo?

590
00:27:00.000 --> 00:27:03.079
<v Speaker 2>So, Leonardo and micro has a neat trick. It can

591
00:27:03.079 --> 00:27:06.160
<v Speaker 2>pretend to be a USB keyboarder mouse when plugged into

592
00:27:06.160 --> 00:27:09.119
<v Speaker 2>a computer. Seriously, yep, so you could build a little

593
00:27:09.160 --> 00:27:12.400
<v Speaker 2>box with a button. Press the button and the Leonardo

594
00:27:12.480 --> 00:27:15.920
<v Speaker 2>automatically types your complex password into whatever program is active

595
00:27:15.920 --> 00:27:16.480
<v Speaker 2>on your PC.

596
00:27:16.720 --> 00:27:20.559
<v Speaker 1>WHOA, that's potentially useful and slightly scary.

597
00:27:20.839 --> 00:27:23.920
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, shows the power of bridging electronics and computers directly.

598
00:27:23.960 --> 00:27:27.079
<v Speaker 1>Okay, let's talk sensors making projects aware of the world.

599
00:27:27.400 --> 00:27:29.440
<v Speaker 1>Pir motion sensors, asive infra.

600
00:27:29.240 --> 00:27:32.160
<v Speaker 2>Red Yeah, those little white dome things, super cheap, easy

601
00:27:32.200 --> 00:27:35.759
<v Speaker 2>to use. They detect changes in infrared radiation, basically body

602
00:27:35.799 --> 00:27:36.319
<v Speaker 2>heat moving.

603
00:27:36.400 --> 00:27:38.839
<v Speaker 1>The book mentioned detecting farts.

604
00:27:39.039 --> 00:27:42.799
<v Speaker 2>Hey, yeah, that's one memorable, if slightly puerile example of

605
00:27:42.839 --> 00:27:46.680
<v Speaker 2>detecting gas movement. More practically, they're great for security lights

606
00:27:46.759 --> 00:27:51.359
<v Speaker 2>or automatic doors. Simple three pin connection, power ground and

607
00:27:51.440 --> 00:27:54.880
<v Speaker 2>an output pin that goes high when motion is detected.

608
00:27:55.000 --> 00:27:58.200
<v Speaker 1>Easy. What about measuring distance like a robot avoiding walls?

609
00:27:58.319 --> 00:28:01.680
<v Speaker 2>Ultrasonic rangefinders They work like sonar or bats send out

610
00:28:01.680 --> 00:28:03.440
<v Speaker 2>a burst of ultrasound.

611
00:28:02.839 --> 00:28:04.880
<v Speaker 1>Too high frequency for us to hear right.

612
00:28:05.039 --> 00:28:07.880
<v Speaker 2>Then they listen for the echo bouncing back. By timing

613
00:28:07.880 --> 00:28:10.119
<v Speaker 2>how long the echo takes and knowing the speed of sound,

614
00:28:10.160 --> 00:28:11.359
<v Speaker 2>they calculate the distance.

615
00:28:11.640 --> 00:28:13.119
<v Speaker 1>Are they easy to use with our dueno?

616
00:28:13.480 --> 00:28:17.359
<v Speaker 2>There are different types. The cheap HCSR zero four needs

617
00:28:17.359 --> 00:28:20.640
<v Speaker 2>the Ardueno to do more work. Send the trigger pulse,

618
00:28:20.799 --> 00:28:24.400
<v Speaker 2>measure the echo pulse with using pulsen, then do the math.

619
00:28:24.680 --> 00:28:26.359
<v Speaker 2>You sometimes get weird readings you need to.

620
00:28:26.279 --> 00:28:28.319
<v Speaker 1>Filter out, and more expensive ones.

621
00:28:28.119 --> 00:28:30.279
<v Speaker 2>Modules like the max botex ones do all the hard

622
00:28:30.319 --> 00:28:32.759
<v Speaker 2>work on board. They just send you the distance measurement directly,

623
00:28:33.039 --> 00:28:36.720
<v Speaker 2>maybe via serial data or an analog voltage. Easier to code,

624
00:28:36.759 --> 00:28:38.319
<v Speaker 2>but costs more trade offs.

625
00:28:38.720 --> 00:28:41.359
<v Speaker 1>What about wireless control like a simple remote?

626
00:28:41.559 --> 00:28:44.599
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, there are cheap RF modules often come with a

627
00:28:44.599 --> 00:28:47.200
<v Speaker 2>little key fob remote press a button on the remote

628
00:28:47.240 --> 00:28:50.440
<v Speaker 2>and a corresponding pin on the receiver. Module goes high

629
00:28:50.440 --> 00:28:51.839
<v Speaker 2>GH or low.

630
00:28:51.880 --> 00:28:55.400
<v Speaker 1>W, so you could connect that receiver pin to an Arduino.

631
00:28:55.160 --> 00:28:58.279
<v Speaker 2>Input exactly read the state of the pins to know

632
00:28:58.319 --> 00:28:59.759
<v Speaker 2>which remote button was pressed.

633
00:29:00.000 --> 00:29:03.519
<v Speaker 1>Simple wireless control motor control. Again, you mentioned mossfets for

634
00:29:03.799 --> 00:29:04.960
<v Speaker 1>smoother speed control.

635
00:29:05.079 --> 00:29:07.960
<v Speaker 2>Right. Instead of just on off with a relay, a

636
00:29:08.000 --> 00:29:11.359
<v Speaker 2>power mosfet controlled by our duino's PWM output lets you

637
00:29:11.440 --> 00:29:14.640
<v Speaker 2>vary the power going to a DC motor much more smoothly,

638
00:29:14.960 --> 00:29:16.359
<v Speaker 2>better speed control.

639
00:29:16.160 --> 00:29:19.359
<v Speaker 1>And for reversing DC motors. That h fridge thing again.

640
00:29:19.240 --> 00:29:21.359
<v Speaker 2>Yep, the H bridge module is essential if you need

641
00:29:21.440 --> 00:29:24.119
<v Speaker 2>a DC motor to go both forwards and backwards. Our

642
00:29:24.200 --> 00:29:26.720
<v Speaker 2>duino tells the H bridge which direction to spin and

643
00:29:26.960 --> 00:29:28.640
<v Speaker 2>using KWM how fast.

644
00:29:29.000 --> 00:29:31.079
<v Speaker 1>And stepper motors need h bridges.

645
00:29:30.759 --> 00:29:34.680
<v Speaker 2>Too, Yes, Usually steppers have multiple coils, and the H

646
00:29:34.720 --> 00:29:38.440
<v Speaker 2>bridge or a dedicated stepper driver module which often contains

647
00:29:38.519 --> 00:29:41.960
<v Speaker 2>multiple H bridges, handles energizing those coils in the correct

648
00:29:41.960 --> 00:29:43.960
<v Speaker 2>sequence to make the motor step accurately.

649
00:29:44.119 --> 00:29:47.319
<v Speaker 1>Okay, let's put it all together. The robot rotor project

650
00:29:47.640 --> 00:29:48.240
<v Speaker 1>sounds cool.

651
00:29:48.440 --> 00:29:52.480
<v Speaker 2>It's a great Capstone project uses a basic robot chassis,

652
00:29:52.759 --> 00:29:56.279
<v Speaker 2>two DC gear motors, an H bridge module to control

653
00:29:56.319 --> 00:29:57.680
<v Speaker 2>them in Arduino.

654
00:29:57.440 --> 00:29:59.920
<v Speaker 1>Brain, and the RF remotor control and the.

655
00:30:00.079 --> 00:30:03.160
<v Speaker 2>RF remote receiver module hooked up to the arduino So

656
00:30:03.200 --> 00:30:05.759
<v Speaker 2>you press buttons on the remote Arduena reads them and

657
00:30:05.799 --> 00:30:07.480
<v Speaker 2>tells the H bridge how to drive.

658
00:30:07.240 --> 00:30:08.960
<v Speaker 1>The motors any tricky parts.

659
00:30:09.319 --> 00:30:11.559
<v Speaker 2>One common issue is a motor's drawing a lot of

660
00:30:11.680 --> 00:30:14.519
<v Speaker 2>current when they start, which can make the battery voltage

661
00:30:14.559 --> 00:30:16.519
<v Speaker 2>dip suddenly and reset the arduino.

662
00:30:16.720 --> 00:30:17.839
<v Speaker 1>Ah, how do you fix that? Hat?

663
00:30:17.880 --> 00:30:20.640
<v Speaker 2>Add some capacitors across the power supply lines close to

664
00:30:20.680 --> 00:30:24.799
<v Speaker 2>the arduino. They act like tiny temporary reservoirs of power

665
00:30:24.839 --> 00:30:26.119
<v Speaker 2>to smooth out those dips.

666
00:30:26.200 --> 00:30:28.200
<v Speaker 1>Smart and the code logic.

667
00:30:28.559 --> 00:30:31.279
<v Speaker 2>The arduino sketch just reads the pins connected to the

668
00:30:31.400 --> 00:30:35.400
<v Speaker 2>RF receiver. If pind three goes high, maybe remote button C,

669
00:30:35.720 --> 00:30:38.240
<v Speaker 2>it tells the h bridge to drive both motors forward.

670
00:30:38.599 --> 00:30:41.680
<v Speaker 2>If D two goes high, button B, maybe turn right,

671
00:30:41.799 --> 00:30:43.799
<v Speaker 2>and so on. You have to handle the fact that

672
00:30:43.799 --> 00:30:46.200
<v Speaker 2>the RF receiver pins often just toggle on off with

673
00:30:46.240 --> 00:30:46.759
<v Speaker 2>each press.

674
00:30:46.799 --> 00:30:49.119
<v Speaker 1>Okay, that makes sense. Lots of other cool sensors out there.

675
00:30:49.000 --> 00:30:53.599
<v Speaker 2>Too, Oh yeah, loads like four digit seven segment displays

676
00:30:53.599 --> 00:30:55.160
<v Speaker 2>for showing numbers.

677
00:30:54.640 --> 00:30:56.039
<v Speaker 1>Like an old alarm clock display.

678
00:30:56.200 --> 00:30:58.160
<v Speaker 2>Exactly. You can get modules that use it.

679
00:30:58.279 --> 00:30:59.240
<v Speaker 1>Two C I two C.

680
00:30:59.640 --> 00:31:03.960
<v Speaker 2>It's a serial communication protocol needs only two arduenopins SDA

681
00:31:04.039 --> 00:31:07.519
<v Speaker 2>and SCO to talk to multiple devices. Super handy for

682
00:31:07.559 --> 00:31:08.319
<v Speaker 2>reducing wiring.

683
00:31:08.440 --> 00:31:11.400
<v Speaker 1>What about keeping time. Our Dueno forgets when you own plug.

684
00:31:11.160 --> 00:31:16.319
<v Speaker 2>It rain YEP solution a real time clock or RTC module.

685
00:31:16.839 --> 00:31:19.839
<v Speaker 2>It's a little chip with its own battery backup. It

686
00:31:19.920 --> 00:31:22.640
<v Speaker 2>keeps track of time accurately, even when the r greener

687
00:31:22.720 --> 00:31:25.440
<v Speaker 2>is off. Our Dueno just asks it for the time

688
00:31:25.480 --> 00:31:26.000
<v Speaker 2>when needed.

689
00:31:26.559 --> 00:31:28.359
<v Speaker 1>Useful color sensors yeah, like.

690
00:31:28.400 --> 00:31:32.240
<v Speaker 2>The TCS thirty two hundred uses photodiodes with different color

691
00:31:32.240 --> 00:31:35.000
<v Speaker 2>filters to measure the intensity of red, green, and blue light.

692
00:31:35.279 --> 00:31:39.319
<v Speaker 2>Lets your project see color vibration PIAESO sensors. They generate

693
00:31:39.359 --> 00:31:42.359
<v Speaker 2>a little voltage spike when vibrated or noted. Connect one

694
00:31:42.400 --> 00:31:45.160
<v Speaker 2>to an arduino analog input. You'd probably want your code

695
00:31:45.160 --> 00:31:47.400
<v Speaker 2>to figure out the baseline reading when there's no vibration,

696
00:31:47.759 --> 00:31:51.119
<v Speaker 2>then look for spikes above a certain threshold temperature. Easy one.

697
00:31:51.240 --> 00:31:54.079
<v Speaker 2>The TMP thirty six sensor is a simple three pin chip.

698
00:31:54.359 --> 00:31:57.279
<v Speaker 2>Voltage on the output pin is directly proportional to temperature.

699
00:31:57.680 --> 00:31:59.960
<v Speaker 2>Connect to analog input, do a little math, gets some

700
00:32:00.079 --> 00:32:01.480
<v Speaker 2>lcs or fahrenheit.

701
00:32:01.240 --> 00:32:04.200
<v Speaker 1>And accelerometers measuring tilt and movement.

702
00:32:04.319 --> 00:32:07.720
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, tiny little modules that can sense acceleration, including the

703
00:32:07.839 --> 00:32:11.480
<v Speaker 2>constant pull of gravity. On three axes at twy and z.

704
00:32:12.279 --> 00:32:15.680
<v Speaker 2>Lets your project know its orientation or if it's being shaken.

705
00:32:15.519 --> 00:32:17.039
<v Speaker 1>Like the egg and spoon raised project.

706
00:32:18.359 --> 00:32:21.599
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, that's a fun one. Arduino reads the accelerometer. If

707
00:32:21.599 --> 00:32:24.079
<v Speaker 2>the reading's change too much too fast, like you jiggled

708
00:32:24.079 --> 00:32:26.559
<v Speaker 2>your spoon, it beats a buzzer and lights an led

709
00:32:26.920 --> 00:32:27.759
<v Speaker 2>you drop the egg.

710
00:32:28.000 --> 00:32:31.440
<v Speaker 1>Clever use of sensors for interaction. Okay, shifting to audio

711
00:32:31.480 --> 00:32:35.079
<v Speaker 1>again and fixing things custom audio cables right.

712
00:32:35.359 --> 00:32:39.920
<v Speaker 2>Main point again. Use screened wire for audio signals prevents

713
00:32:39.920 --> 00:32:40.839
<v Speaker 2>that annoying.

714
00:32:40.480 --> 00:32:43.960
<v Speaker 1>Hum and soldering those fiddly headphone jacks takes patients.

715
00:32:44.160 --> 00:32:47.440
<v Speaker 2>Strip the wires carefully, inner core an outer screen, tin

716
00:32:47.519 --> 00:32:50.079
<v Speaker 2>thum sowder quickly to the plug terminals, make sure the

717
00:32:50.119 --> 00:32:51.880
<v Speaker 2>strain relief grips the cable properly.

718
00:32:52.000 --> 00:32:54.359
<v Speaker 1>How do you combine stereo left and right into a

719
00:32:54.400 --> 00:32:55.319
<v Speaker 1>single mono signal?

720
00:32:55.440 --> 00:32:59.160
<v Speaker 2>Simple trick. Use two resistors maybe one ko me each.

721
00:32:59.480 --> 00:33:02.160
<v Speaker 2>Connect one resistor from the left channel to your moto

722
00:33:02.160 --> 00:33:04.519
<v Speaker 2>output point and the other resistor from the right channel

723
00:33:04.519 --> 00:33:07.440
<v Speaker 2>to the same point. Mixes them without shorting them together.

724
00:33:07.720 --> 00:33:11.200
<v Speaker 1>Okay. Microphones they produce tiny signals.

725
00:33:11.039 --> 00:33:14.200
<v Speaker 2>Very faint. They always need a pre amplifier or preamp.

726
00:33:14.559 --> 00:33:18.079
<v Speaker 2>This often uses an operational amplifier or op amp.

727
00:33:18.160 --> 00:33:20.960
<v Speaker 1>I see pop amps. High game, Huge game.

728
00:33:21.039 --> 00:33:24.119
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, way too much on their own. So you use feedback,

729
00:33:24.160 --> 00:33:27.359
<v Speaker 2>connecting the output back to the input through resistors to

730
00:33:27.480 --> 00:33:30.039
<v Speaker 2>control and reduce the game to a usable level. It's

731
00:33:30.160 --> 00:33:31.839
<v Speaker 2>fundamental to analog electronics.

732
00:33:32.039 --> 00:33:36.680
<v Speaker 1>Book has a FM bug hack sounds dotchy.

733
00:33:36.799 --> 00:33:39.440
<v Speaker 2>It's a cheat hack. Really. You take a cheap MP

734
00:33:39.480 --> 00:33:41.759
<v Speaker 2>three FM transmitter, one of those things for playing music

735
00:33:41.759 --> 00:33:44.160
<v Speaker 2>through your car radio. Yeah, You open it up, find

736
00:33:44.160 --> 00:33:47.480
<v Speaker 2>the audio input connections left, right, ground. Then you connect

737
00:33:47.480 --> 00:33:49.839
<v Speaker 2>a little microphone module's output to the left and right

738
00:33:49.880 --> 00:33:53.119
<v Speaker 2>inputs and power the MIC module from the transmitter's battery.

739
00:33:52.920 --> 00:33:55.480
<v Speaker 1>So the mic signal gets transmitted over FM exactly.

740
00:33:55.799 --> 00:33:58.119
<v Speaker 2>Tune a nearby FM radio and you can hear whatever

741
00:33:58.119 --> 00:34:00.640
<v Speaker 2>the mic picks up. Move the radio away to avoid

742
00:34:00.680 --> 00:34:01.759
<v Speaker 2>squealing feedback.

743
00:34:02.480 --> 00:34:06.480
<v Speaker 1>Clever repurposing, very clever loud speakers. How do they work? Simply?

744
00:34:06.799 --> 00:34:10.719
<v Speaker 2>Cone coil of wire magnet. Electrical audio signal goes through

745
00:34:10.719 --> 00:34:13.079
<v Speaker 2>the coil, makes it move in the magnetic field. Cone

746
00:34:13.119 --> 00:34:16.559
<v Speaker 2>moves back and forth, pushes air, creates sound waves. Key

747
00:34:16.679 --> 00:34:21.119
<v Speaker 2>specs impedance usually like eight omes power rating, how many

748
00:34:21.119 --> 00:34:24.760
<v Speaker 2>watts before it burns out? And frequency response? What range

749
00:34:24.760 --> 00:34:27.320
<v Speaker 2>of sounds it reproduces well. Low sounds need big whiffers,

750
00:34:27.360 --> 00:34:28.400
<v Speaker 2>highs need small tweeters.

751
00:34:28.480 --> 00:34:30.199
<v Speaker 1>You build your own amplifier definitely.

752
00:34:30.599 --> 00:34:33.639
<v Speaker 2>The book shows a simple one watt amplifier project on

753
00:34:33.679 --> 00:34:37.000
<v Speaker 2>stripboard using a TDA seven zero five to two chip.

754
00:34:37.559 --> 00:34:38.920
<v Speaker 2>That chip does most of the work.

755
00:34:39.039 --> 00:34:39.960
<v Speaker 1>What other parts we needed?

756
00:34:40.119 --> 00:34:44.800
<v Speaker 2>A potentiometer variable resistor for volume control, a capacitor CEE

757
00:34:44.800 --> 00:34:47.519
<v Speaker 2>one at the input to block any DC voltage, but

758
00:34:47.639 --> 00:34:50.880
<v Speaker 2>let the AC audio signal pass. That's called coupling. And

759
00:34:50.960 --> 00:34:53.840
<v Speaker 2>another capacitor C two near the chip's power pins for smoothing,

760
00:34:54.159 --> 00:34:55.960
<v Speaker 2>helps provide quick bursts of current.

761
00:34:56.119 --> 00:34:58.440
<v Speaker 1>You build it on stripboard, checking for shorts.

762
00:34:58.199 --> 00:35:01.840
<v Speaker 2>Yep, solder, carefully test it with an MP three player

763
00:35:01.960 --> 00:35:04.679
<v Speaker 2>or a signal generator app on your phone. Here your

764
00:35:04.719 --> 00:35:05.840
<v Speaker 2>creation make noise.

765
00:35:06.000 --> 00:35:08.679
<v Speaker 1>What about the five five to five timer again for sound?

766
00:35:08.960 --> 00:35:12.159
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, that versatile chip we used it for flashing LEDs.

767
00:35:12.639 --> 00:35:15.559
<v Speaker 2>Change the component values and it can oscillate much faster

768
00:35:15.679 --> 00:35:16.800
<v Speaker 2>producing audio tones.

769
00:35:16.920 --> 00:35:18.639
<v Speaker 1>The book mentions a Therman.

770
00:35:18.480 --> 00:35:22.239
<v Speaker 2>Like thing kind of use a light dependent resistor LDR

771
00:35:22.360 --> 00:35:25.039
<v Speaker 2>A resistor whose resistance changes with light level in the

772
00:35:25.039 --> 00:35:27.639
<v Speaker 2>five P fifty five circuit. Wave your hand over the LDR.

773
00:35:28.000 --> 00:35:30.719
<v Speaker 2>Change the light, change the resistance, change the frequency, the

774
00:35:30.800 --> 00:35:34.239
<v Speaker 2>pitch of the tone changes. Wobbly sound controlled.

775
00:35:33.760 --> 00:35:39.559
<v Speaker 1>By light fun Okay. Last big topic, troubleshooting. Fixing stuff

776
00:35:39.599 --> 00:35:40.159
<v Speaker 1>when it breaks.

777
00:35:40.440 --> 00:35:45.280
<v Speaker 2>Safety first, absolutely paramount rule number one. Never ever work

778
00:35:45.320 --> 00:35:48.039
<v Speaker 2>on stuff that's plugged into the wall outlet. Unplug it first.

779
00:35:48.199 --> 00:35:50.119
<v Speaker 1>Always all about things with big capacitors.

780
00:35:50.400 --> 00:35:54.880
<v Speaker 2>They can hold charge, yes, dangerous charge. Sometimes safely discharge

781
00:35:54.920 --> 00:35:58.440
<v Speaker 2>high voltage capacitors using a suitable resistor across their terminals.

782
00:35:58.480 --> 00:36:01.320
<v Speaker 2>Don't short them with a screwdriver. And always check voltages

783
00:36:01.360 --> 00:36:02.960
<v Speaker 2>with a multimeter before touching things.

784
00:36:03.039 --> 00:36:05.000
<v Speaker 1>If something just stops working, what's the first check?

785
00:36:05.119 --> 00:36:08.800
<v Speaker 2>Check the fuse use your multimeter's cartinuity mode be bit good, No,

786
00:36:08.920 --> 00:36:09.559
<v Speaker 2>be blown.

787
00:36:09.719 --> 00:36:10.880
<v Speaker 1>Are all fuses the same?

788
00:36:11.239 --> 00:36:14.800
<v Speaker 2>No, there are fast blow and slow blow time delay types.

789
00:36:15.239 --> 00:36:18.400
<v Speaker 2>Replace with the exact same type and rating. If a

790
00:36:18.400 --> 00:36:21.639
<v Speaker 2>new fuse blows immediately, there's a short circuit somewhere. Don't

791
00:36:21.679 --> 00:36:22.920
<v Speaker 2>just keep putting fuses in.

792
00:36:23.239 --> 00:36:24.760
<v Speaker 1>How to test batteries properly.

793
00:36:24.920 --> 00:36:28.280
<v Speaker 2>Multimeter voltage check gives a rough idea. For example, a

794
00:36:28.320 --> 00:36:31.039
<v Speaker 2>one point five vaa below one point two v is

795
00:36:31.079 --> 00:36:35.000
<v Speaker 2>probably dead. Better test check voltage while it's under a

796
00:36:35.039 --> 00:36:37.679
<v Speaker 2>small load, like with a hundred year room resistor across it.

797
00:36:38.199 --> 00:36:39.719
<v Speaker 2>See if the voltage holds up.

798
00:36:39.840 --> 00:36:41.760
<v Speaker 1>Heating elements like in a toaster, you.

799
00:36:41.639 --> 00:36:45.760
<v Speaker 2>Can calculate their expected resistance r fers via veryp and

800
00:36:45.840 --> 00:36:49.599
<v Speaker 2>check it with the multimeter's resistance mode. Infinite resistance means

801
00:36:49.599 --> 00:36:50.119
<v Speaker 2>it's broken.

802
00:36:50.280 --> 00:36:52.440
<v Speaker 1>Finding failed components look for burns.

803
00:36:52.199 --> 00:36:55.239
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, look for anything obviously burnt, charred, cracked, or bulging.

804
00:36:55.559 --> 00:36:59.079
<v Speaker 2>Test suspect resistors or capacitors with the multimeter. Use a

805
00:36:59.119 --> 00:37:02.559
<v Speaker 2>magnifying glass or phone camera to read tiny component markings.

806
00:37:02.679 --> 00:37:06.639
<v Speaker 1>Removing soldered components desoldering it takes practice. Sometimes adding a

807
00:37:06.639 --> 00:37:08.840
<v Speaker 1>bit of fresh solder helps the old stuff melt and

808
00:37:08.880 --> 00:37:11.360
<v Speaker 1>flow better. Or use desoldering braid it's like a copper

809
00:37:11.360 --> 00:37:14.599
<v Speaker 1>wick that soaks up molten solder or a solder sucker tool.

810
00:37:14.760 --> 00:37:18.800
<v Speaker 2>What about reusing old power adapters like phone chargers great

811
00:37:18.800 --> 00:37:22.320
<v Speaker 2>source of power, but plugs are often nonstandard. Cut the

812
00:37:22.360 --> 00:37:25.000
<v Speaker 2>plug off if needed, but be very careful to identify

813
00:37:25.079 --> 00:37:28.079
<v Speaker 2>the positive and negative wires using your multimeter before connecting

814
00:37:28.079 --> 00:37:32.079
<v Speaker 2>it to your project, get the polarity wrong and poof.

815
00:37:31.960 --> 00:37:35.280
<v Speaker 1>Lots of potential poofs and electronics. Okay, beyond the basics,

816
00:37:35.519 --> 00:37:37.480
<v Speaker 1>what tools might you invest in later?

817
00:37:37.760 --> 00:37:40.599
<v Speaker 2>A proper lab power supply is a great next step.

818
00:37:40.920 --> 00:37:43.159
<v Speaker 1>Why what's better than a wall adapter?

819
00:37:43.519 --> 00:37:46.400
<v Speaker 2>So much better? You can set the exact voltage you need.

820
00:37:46.440 --> 00:37:48.880
<v Speaker 2>It shows you how much current your project is drawing.

821
00:37:49.039 --> 00:37:52.480
<v Speaker 2>Brilliant for debugging. You can limit the current, preventing damage

822
00:37:52.480 --> 00:37:55.719
<v Speaker 2>if there's a short. Some have constant current mode, great

823
00:37:55.760 --> 00:37:56.480
<v Speaker 2>for LEDs.

824
00:37:56.719 --> 00:37:58.880
<v Speaker 1>How do you use it when first powering up a

825
00:37:58.920 --> 00:37:59.519
<v Speaker 1>new project?

826
00:37:59.679 --> 00:38:03.039
<v Speaker 2>Cash set the voltage needed, set the current limit low,

827
00:38:03.079 --> 00:38:06.320
<v Speaker 2>Initially turn it on. If it doesn't hit the current limit,

828
00:38:06.400 --> 00:38:09.519
<v Speaker 2>slowly increase the limit while watching for smoke or overheating.

829
00:38:10.039 --> 00:38:10.920
<v Speaker 2>Safe way to test.

830
00:38:11.320 --> 00:38:14.559
<v Speaker 1>What about seeing signals change over time? Multimeters are slow?

831
00:38:14.719 --> 00:38:16.920
<v Speaker 2>That's where in acilloscope comes in. It's like a TV

832
00:38:17.000 --> 00:38:18.039
<v Speaker 2>screen for electricity.

833
00:38:18.119 --> 00:38:21.719
<v Speaker 1>Shows waveforms YEP voltage on the vertical axis, time on

834
00:38:21.760 --> 00:38:24.679
<v Speaker 1>the horizontal. You can see exactly what a signal is doing.

835
00:38:24.719 --> 00:38:30.239
<v Speaker 1>It's shape, peak, voltage frequency Indispensable for anything beyond simple

836
00:38:30.320 --> 00:38:34.079
<v Speaker 1>DC stuff uses special high impedance probe so it doesn't

837
00:38:34.119 --> 00:38:35.440
<v Speaker 1>interfere much with the circuit.

838
00:38:35.480 --> 00:38:37.639
<v Speaker 2>Any useful software tools Oh yeah.

839
00:38:37.800 --> 00:38:40.679
<v Speaker 1>Online circuit simulators like circuit lablet you build and test

840
00:38:40.719 --> 00:38:43.320
<v Speaker 1>circuits virtually saves time and money.

841
00:38:43.440 --> 00:38:45.639
<v Speaker 2>And for designing proper circuit boards.

842
00:38:45.440 --> 00:38:49.800
<v Speaker 1>PCB design software egl E is a popular one. Fritzing

843
00:38:49.840 --> 00:38:52.760
<v Speaker 1>is more beginner friendly. Maybe let you go from schematic

844
00:38:52.800 --> 00:38:54.599
<v Speaker 1>to a professional looking board layout.

845
00:38:54.719 --> 00:38:58.480
<v Speaker 2>Where do people find project ideas, help parts?

846
00:38:58.760 --> 00:39:01.639
<v Speaker 1>The internet is amazing for that, sites like instructibles, Hackaday,

847
00:39:01.679 --> 00:39:05.360
<v Speaker 1>the official Ardweno site, Arduena, dot, CC maker suppliers like

848
00:39:05.400 --> 00:39:08.639
<v Speaker 1>spark fun and a to fruit endless inspiration and tutorials,

849
00:39:08.960 --> 00:39:11.639
<v Speaker 1>and eBay or ali Express for cheap components if you

850
00:39:11.639 --> 00:39:12.320
<v Speaker 1>don't mind waiting.

851
00:39:12.480 --> 00:39:14.679
<v Speaker 2>Wow, Okay, we have covered a lot of ground today.

852
00:39:14.760 --> 00:39:17.920
<v Speaker 1>We really have, from tiny resistors and LEDs right up

853
00:39:17.960 --> 00:39:20.880
<v Speaker 1>to building robots and web controlled gadgets and the core

854
00:39:20.960 --> 00:39:24.000
<v Speaker 1>ideas behind it all. Yeah, and hopefully listening to this

855
00:39:24.159 --> 00:39:29.039
<v Speaker 1>you feel a bit more empowered, less intimidated by electronics.

856
00:39:29.119 --> 00:39:30.800
<v Speaker 1>That was the goal, right, to see it as a

857
00:39:30.800 --> 00:39:32.679
<v Speaker 1>playground not a fortress exactly.

858
00:39:32.760 --> 00:39:35.559
<v Speaker 2>You've got the foundations now, the basic techniques, the tools,

859
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<v Speaker 2>the mindset, you're ready to start your own hacking adventures.

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<v Speaker 1>You really are the powers in your hands, literally.

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<v Speaker 2>And think about this. Every gadget around you, your phone,

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<v Speaker 2>your microwave, your car, it's all just made up of

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<v Speaker 2>these same basic principles and components. We've talked about simple

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<v Speaker 2>stuff combined in clever ways.

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<v Speaker 1>So here's a thought to lead you with. What hidden

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<v Speaker 1>potential is lurking inside some old, overlook device you have

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<v Speaker 1>lying around What what could you make it do just

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<v Speaker 1>by taking it apart and messing with it?

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<v Speaker 2>What new possibilities could you unlock?

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<v Speaker 1>So our final advice go find a screwdriver, grab that multimeter,

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<v Speaker 1>maybe that old broken radio in the garage, and just

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<v Speaker 1>do it.

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<v Speaker 2>Start experimenting, start hacking, see what you discover appy hacking
