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<v Speaker 1>Welcome. This is Marsha for Radio I, and today I

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<v Speaker 1>will be reading National Geographic Magazine dated June twenty twenty five,

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<v Speaker 1>which is donated by the publisher as a reminder Radio

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<v Speaker 1>I as a reading service intended for people who are

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<v Speaker 1>blind or have other disabilities that make it difficult to

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<v Speaker 1>read printed material. Please join me now for the continuation

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<v Speaker 1>of the article I began last time, entitled what we

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<v Speaker 1>Can Learn from the Genius of Beavers by Ben Goldfarbe.

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<v Speaker 1>If that isn't serving a societal need, I don't know

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<v Speaker 1>what is in the San Pedro River. Shippek estimates that

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<v Speaker 1>up to twenty one beavers now live on the Arizona

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<v Speaker 1>side of the border, and perhaps seventeen more in Mexico,

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<v Speaker 1>though the populations are divided by a metal floodgate that

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<v Speaker 1>is part of the border wall. During our survey we

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<v Speaker 1>saw ample chew and a few lodges, but no dams. Still,

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<v Speaker 1>Shipeck hopes that beavers will could some day restore or

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<v Speaker 1>the bountiful wetlands that long ago prevailed in many desert

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<v Speaker 1>water courses and helped the Southwest address its water woes.

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<v Speaker 1>I can only imagine how difficult it would have looked

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<v Speaker 1>Shappek said wistfully as we waded through the shin deep

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<v Speaker 1>flow of the former Beaver River, envisioning the ponds and

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<v Speaker 1>marshes that once shimmered here. It just seems so important

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<v Speaker 1>to bring back this critical species. It's the evolution of

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<v Speaker 1>restoration in this area. As beavers reoccupy floodplains and stream corridors,

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<v Speaker 1>they risk becoming victims of their own success. The rodents

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<v Speaker 1>gnaw down orchards, flood roads, and block irrigation, ditches mischief

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<v Speaker 1>to which landowners generally respond by calling trappers. The USDA's

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<v Speaker 1>Wildlife Services program that deals with problematic animals kills an

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<v Speaker 1>average of one beaver every twenty two minutes. But in

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<v Speaker 1>the places where communities are learning to coexist, they're reaping

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<v Speaker 1>surprising benefits. On a blue May morning, I found myself

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<v Speaker 1>slogging through a wetland in Gresham, Oregon, a city of

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<v Speaker 1>one hundred twelve thousand, a dozen miles east of Portland.

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<v Speaker 1>A beaver built weave of willow stems had formed a

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<v Speaker 1>pond whose mucky floor sucked at my boots. Red winged

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<v Speaker 1>blackbirds buzzed in the bushes. Wood ducks glided across the

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<v Speaker 1>glassy surface. Katie holds her the city's watershed scientists scooped

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<v Speaker 1>up some translucent jelly peppered with black specks. Those little

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<v Speaker 1>dots are the embryos of the Pacific tree frog. She said.

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<v Speaker 1>This pocket of biodiversity wasn't always here. In two thousand

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<v Speaker 1>and eight, Gresham had excavated an elaborate maze of berms

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<v Speaker 1>and canals known as the Columbia Slough Regional Water Quality Facility,

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<v Speaker 1>to capture the heavy metals, nitrates, and pesticides that habitually

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<v Speaker 1>ran off streets and into the nearby Columbia and Willamette Rivers.

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<v Speaker 1>To the city's dismay, beavers damned the ditches, sabotaging humans.

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<v Speaker 1>Best laid plans orchis destroyed the dams and trapped the beavers,

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<v Speaker 1>but the beef came back. The animals, Holtzer finally figured

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<v Speaker 1>were there to stay, so why not study them. When

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<v Speaker 1>she analyzed the water trickling past their dams, she discovered

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<v Speaker 1>something extraordinary. Beaver ponds were cleaning Gresham's storm water better

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<v Speaker 1>than the water Quality Facility had without them. Mercury, copper,

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<v Speaker 1>led and zinc settled out in ponds and were trapped

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<v Speaker 1>within the sediment and woody lattices of dams, further strained

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<v Speaker 1>out contaminants, Bird diversity increased, and salamanders hid in the

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<v Speaker 1>dam's cool crevices. Beaver's, Holzer said, are a perfect self

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<v Speaker 1>maintaining system. After every storm, they come out and patch

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<v Speaker 1>things up for free. The city's relationship with Beaver's was

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<v Speaker 1>still fraught. The resourceful animals were inudating access roads and

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<v Speaker 1>clogging the wastewater facilities pipes. Instead of killing the troublemakers,

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<v Speaker 1>city officials hired Jacob Shaki, a mop top biologist whose

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<v Speaker 1>truck sported B three A V three R vanity place

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<v Speaker 1>to mediate. I found Shaki waist deep in a pond

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<v Speaker 1>behind a culvert packed with sticks and mud. Beavers are

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<v Speaker 1>plugging this up so often that they have to clean

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<v Speaker 1>it out once a week, Shaki said, wiping his brow.

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<v Speaker 1>Shaki had been asked with crafting tasked with crafting a

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<v Speaker 1>permanent solution, including fences to keep beavers from blocking culverts

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<v Speaker 1>and pipes to lower road flooding ponds. A study showed

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<v Speaker 1>that such non lethal interventions work up to ninety six

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<v Speaker 1>percent of the time, and they saved money to boot.

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<v Speaker 1>The best thing we can do for beavers, said Shaki,

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<v Speaker 1>is to partner with them in the places they've chosen

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<v Speaker 1>to live. Like a Holtzer and Shaki, researchers and policymakers

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<v Speaker 1>around the country are trying to let the animals thrive.

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<v Speaker 1>In Montana, a new beaver conflict resolution program helps landowners

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<v Speaker 1>solve their beaver problems without resorting to traps. In Maryland,

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<v Speaker 1>the collogists are counting on beaver ponds to filter out

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<v Speaker 1>nitrates polluting Chestapeake Bay. One of the swiftest progress is

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<v Speaker 1>happening in California, which in twenty twenty three launched a

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<v Speaker 1>statewide beaver program that set aside one point four million

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<v Speaker 1>dollars to implement beaver restoration initiatives. That same year, California's

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<v Speaker 1>Department of Fish and Wildlife released seven beavers onto the

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<v Speaker 1>ancestral lands of the Mountain Maidu, the state's first official

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<v Speaker 1>relocation in almost seventy five years. Other tribes are also

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<v Speaker 1>welcoming beaver's home in californiears Klamath River Watershed. The Yurok

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<v Speaker 1>Tribes Fisheries Department has constructed beaver dam analogs human built

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<v Speaker 1>dams designed to imitate beaver activity, encourage the rodents to return,

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<v Speaker 1>and create sheltering ponds for juvenile salmon. Some young salmon

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<v Speaker 1>have since gone to sea and come back to spawn,

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<v Speaker 1>a strong suggestion that the tribe's beaver based approach is working.

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<v Speaker 1>Higher up the claimeth the removal of four massive hydroelectric

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<v Speaker 1>dams has recently helped fish reclaim their spawning grend Yet

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<v Speaker 1>near the river's mouth, the beaver inspired dams, small and

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<v Speaker 1>permeable rather than colossal and concrete, have also produced substantial gains.

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<v Speaker 1>Every species teaches us lessons on how we're supposed to

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<v Speaker 1>live together, said Frankie Meers, the eurok's vice chairmen. Just

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<v Speaker 1>as beavers designed their own environment, Meyers said, Native people

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<v Speaker 1>are charged with activity, with actively restoring nature to ensure

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<v Speaker 1>its flourishing. We do this work to restore our fisheries,

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<v Speaker 1>restore beaver because this is our place, right, We belong

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<v Speaker 1>to this place. The future is liable to change for beavers,

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<v Speaker 1>for one thing, there expanding their range. As climate change

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<v Speaker 1>warms the Arctic, plucky beavers have followed onto willow doubted tundra.

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<v Speaker 1>In New York City, beavers have recolonized the Bronx River

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<v Speaker 1>and Staten Island in Seattle, they occupy eighty six percent

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<v Speaker 1>of suitable habitat. Considering the animals were once on extinctions,

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<v Speaker 1>doorstep beavers have made a spectacular recovery, yet they're still

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<v Speaker 1>at a sad fraction of their historic numbers, particularly in

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<v Speaker 1>Western states that need them most. Environmental laws like the

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<v Speaker 1>Endangered Species Act prevent scarce animals from going extinct, but

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<v Speaker 1>beaver's pose a different challenge. How do we help an

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<v Speaker 1>animal that's already fairly common become truly abundant. Perhaps it

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<v Speaker 1>starts with figuring out where they are and aren't. The

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<v Speaker 1>ultimate testament to beaver's influence may be that you can

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<v Speaker 1>study their architecture from space. Engineers at Google have recently

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<v Speaker 1>trained a machine learning program dubbed e Eager to identify

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<v Speaker 1>the distinct appearance of ponds and dams in satellite imagery.

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<v Speaker 1>California's Wildlife Department is using the algorithm to count its

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<v Speaker 1>beeaver's and guide restoration. A similar effort, the Colorado Beaver

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<v Speaker 1>Activity Mapper has already roughly counted this centennial state's beaver ponds,

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<v Speaker 1>the taily around eighty thousand, according to Sarah Marshall, the

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<v Speaker 1>ecologist who led the Colorado program's development. Getting a handle

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<v Speaker 1>on beaver distributions could allow wildlife managers to preemptively address

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<v Speaker 1>potential classes with farmers and ratchers, or pinpoint spots where

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<v Speaker 1>beaver dam analogs and relocations will have the biggest water

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<v Speaker 1>storage and fire fighting benefits. Comparing where beavers used to

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<v Speaker 1>be with where they are today as a prescription for

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<v Speaker 1>where to do large scale restoration in Colorado, Marshall said,

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<v Speaker 1>on a recent spring day, I visited Birch Creek, a

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<v Speaker 1>stream in southern Idaho that represents a different approach to

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<v Speaker 1>re beavering. I walked up stream with j Wilde, a

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<v Speaker 1>rancher who sported a battered cowboy hat and a drooping mustache.

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<v Speaker 1>Every sixty feet or so, Birch Creek was stapled by

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<v Speaker 1>another dam, some eighty feet long, some ten feet high,

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<v Speaker 1>some that formed staircases of mirrored acre wide lakes. Lobes

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<v Speaker 1>of waters shot onto the floodplain. Single channels split into

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<v Speaker 1>twisted strands, and beaver dug canals. Spiderwebbed everywhere. A few

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<v Speaker 1>neglected grass covered dams melted into the landscape. It was

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<v Speaker 1>glorious chaos, a mess of water and wood that scarcely

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<v Speaker 1>resembled a discreet stream. This was a recent transformation. Wild

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<v Speaker 1>had grown up along Birch Creek, which supported his family's homestead.

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<v Speaker 1>By the late nineteen nineties, though the stream had dwindled

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<v Speaker 1>to a pitiful trickle that would dry up. By the

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<v Speaker 1>fourth of July. Birch Creek had lost its beavers. Wild realized,

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<v Speaker 1>and he resolved to bring them back. After two failed relocations,

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<v Speaker 1>he contacted Utah States Wheaton, the nearest beaver expert, who's

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<v Speaker 1>crew built twenty six beaver dam analogs in the creek

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<v Speaker 1>between twenty fourteen and twenty seventeen. The human made dams

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<v Speaker 1>created ponds in which subsequent reintroduced beavers could evade predators

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<v Speaker 1>and focus their own damming. By the time I visited,

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<v Speaker 1>more than two hundred beaver built dams spanned Birch Creek

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<v Speaker 1>and its tributaries, and native cutthroat trout populations had grown

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<v Speaker 1>more than tenfold better, Yet, the creek was again staying

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<v Speaker 1>wet deep into summer, as water seeped from the saturated

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<v Speaker 1>floodplain as though from a squeezed sponge. We've gained forty

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<v Speaker 1>days of flow, whild said, his drawl tinged, tinged with

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<v Speaker 1>wonder beavers. Researchers sometimes point out our critical infrastructure builders

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<v Speaker 1>of fire brakes and reservoirs and storm water catchments, but

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<v Speaker 1>there also beings with their own wills, desires, and volition.

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<v Speaker 1>Near my tour's end, a beaver popped up in one pond,

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<v Speaker 1>had raised and ears pricked. I had to train em

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<v Speaker 1>all winter to do that. Wild cracked a joke that

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<v Speaker 1>was funny precisely because beavers, for all their benefits to humanity,

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<v Speaker 1>serve no master. The rodents swam to and fro assessing us.

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<v Speaker 1>Then with a resounding KerPlunk, he thwacked his tail against

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<v Speaker 1>the surface, roiling the pond and raising a shower of droplets.

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<v Speaker 1>By the time the tumult settled, he was gone, gliding

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<v Speaker 1>invisibly through the watery world. He had created. Benefits of beavers.

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<v Speaker 1>These engineers create their watery kingdoms to evade predators and

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<v Speaker 1>access food, but their habitat modifications also provide surprising advantages

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<v Speaker 1>for entire ecosystems. Adapted to dam along with their stout

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<v Speaker 1>bodies and waterproofer, beavers have a host of adaptations that

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<v Speaker 1>allow them to thrive healthier landscape, from better water quality

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<v Speaker 1>to increased wildfire resistance. Beavers improve their surroundings in a

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<v Speaker 1>variety of ways. Next Why your dog looks like You

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<v Speaker 1>words by Terra Law. New research confirms your long simmering

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<v Speaker 1>suspicion that dogs resemble their owners and even act like

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<v Speaker 1>them too. When I walked into the ring at the

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<v Speaker 1>Pennington Day Dog Shows Lookalike contest in suburban New Jersey

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<v Speaker 1>in the mid nineteen nineties, I was brooming with confidence

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<v Speaker 1>and why wouldn't I be? Soccer, my buff colored Cocker

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<v Speaker 1>Spaniel puppy had long, floppy ears, the perfect complement to

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<v Speaker 1>my wavy, blond Bob. We stormed to victory. For the

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<v Speaker 1>next few years, Soccer and I competed at Pennington Day

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<v Speaker 1>in n array of matching outfits. We scored similar results,

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<v Speaker 1>wrecking up a row of blue ribbons. I have not

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<v Speaker 1>succeeded at anything as constantly since. At this point, it's

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<v Speaker 1>a cliche. Lots of people look like their dogs. It

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<v Speaker 1>turns out that there is actual science to support this stereotype.

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<v Speaker 1>A recent review of fifteen studies from around the globe

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<v Speaker 1>suggests that people and their pets look and act similar.

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<v Speaker 1>In several of the experiments, volunteers were asked to match

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<v Speaker 1>pictures of dogs in their owners, and they scored higher

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<v Speaker 1>than they would have just by chance. In one study,

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<v Speaker 1>participants successfully inferred whether dogs were matched with the correct

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<v Speaker 1>owners despite being able to see only the dogs or

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<v Speaker 1>owner's eyes. Another found that women often preferred dogs with

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<v Speaker 1>ears similar in length to their hair. So what gives

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<v Speaker 1>a blend of benign narcissism? Seemingly experts to suggest people

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<v Speaker 1>dogs that look like them or reflect them in some way.

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<v Speaker 1>I imagine when I was young, my parents subconsciously chose

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<v Speaker 1>our pet Soccer, as she looked a bit like a

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<v Speaker 1>canine version of their child. Perhaps even more strikingly, the

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<v Speaker 1>review also showed that dogs and owners share similar personality traits,

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<v Speaker 1>especially in the cases of extra version the term psychologists

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<v Speaker 1>use for xtro version and neuroticism, and that their temperaments

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<v Speaker 1>appear to grow more alike as the years pass. It

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<v Speaker 1>offers different theories for why this might be the case.

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<v Speaker 1>One idea is that owners could be drawn to dogs

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<v Speaker 1>that are like them to begin with. Another holds that

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<v Speaker 1>over time, the pair may regulate each other's emotions reinforce

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<v Speaker 1>each other's behavior by learning or observing and imitating one another.

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<v Speaker 1>After all, the relationships we build with our dogs can

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<v Speaker 1>be some of the longest and most meaningful of our lives.

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<v Speaker 1>It resembles the way we also look for our partners,

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<v Speaker 1>says review leader Yanna Bender, a doctoral research in the

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<v Speaker 1>Dog Studies Research Group at the Max Planck Institute of

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<v Speaker 1>of Geoanthropology in Jena, Germany. Dogs and their owners, she

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<v Speaker 1>points out, share a very close relationship comparable to many

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<v Speaker 1>human relationships. Authors of the review, published in the journal

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<v Speaker 1>Personality and Individual Differences, noted several limitations to their research,

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<v Speaker 1>such as the relatively small number of dogs and owners

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<v Speaker 1>included in the studies. Many of the owners who volunteered

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<v Speaker 1>to participate in the studies also had purebred dogs, and

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<v Speaker 1>scientists need additional data on mixed breed canines, which are

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<v Speaker 1>more common worldwide. Owner bias plays a role too. Even

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<v Speaker 1>with standardized methods for assessing dogs personalities, different researchers use

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<v Speaker 1>varying concepts, and it can be just as hard to

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<v Speaker 1>think that your own pet objectively as it is with

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<v Speaker 1>your human family. Who's the goodest boy you are? Ways

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<v Speaker 1>Researchers can address this bias using established questionnaires and asking

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<v Speaker 1>owners more clear cut questions about how their dogs act

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<v Speaker 1>int certain situations rather than asking them to weigh in

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<v Speaker 1>on Fido's goodness. The influence humans have on their dogs

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<v Speaker 1>comes as no surprise to Borbada Turkshan, who studies dog

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<v Speaker 1>behavior at Beauttris Darand University's Faculty of Science in Budapest, Hungary.

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<v Speaker 1>She estimates that while about a third of a dog's

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<v Speaker 1>personality is genetic, the remaining two thirds is influenced by

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<v Speaker 1>its environment, which means that if your dog has been

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<v Speaker 1>with you from puppyhood, you occupy a place of enormous

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<v Speaker 1>influence in its world. Dogs are also prime to trust

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<v Speaker 1>their owners because tens of thousands of years of domestication

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<v Speaker 1>made them deeply attached to us. Like parents raising a child,

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<v Speaker 1>pet owners can have a powerful influence over their dogs.

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<v Speaker 1>Turksand explains, for instance, if there is a truck coming

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<v Speaker 1>and it's very loud, then the dog will look back

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<v Speaker 1>at the owner. If the owner doesn't care, then the

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<v Speaker 1>dog will learn not to care, She says. Bender hopes

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<v Speaker 1>her study will help people build the eber more nuanced

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<v Speaker 1>understanding of dogs, particularly those like search and rescue, police

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<v Speaker 1>and service animals that work in Roll's vital to public safety.

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<v Speaker 1>Not long ago, my husband and I adopted Milo, a

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<v Speaker 1>mixed breed pup that loves playing fetch and taking daily walks.

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<v Speaker 1>We aren't quite the lock to win lookalike contests the

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<v Speaker 1>way Soccer and I were, though he does have short,

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<v Speaker 1>tan ears, not far off from my current hair style.

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<v Speaker 1>Maybe that influenced why my husband and I picked him

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<v Speaker 1>after scrolling through several hundred photos of dogs at shelters

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<v Speaker 1>and nonprofits all over Los Angeles. But even if I

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<v Speaker 1>grow my hair long or diet another collar, I'll be

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<v Speaker 1>mindful that the way I treat Milo can have a

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<v Speaker 1>profound effect on him, just as his behavior can affect mine.

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<v Speaker 1>To a point of course, however the facts, He'll always

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<v Speaker 1>be my goodest boy. Next. The future of fashion is

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<v Speaker 1>farm to Closet by Claudia Klba. How in INDONIESI which

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<v Speaker 1>and fashion brand is embracing traditional techniques to build a

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<v Speaker 1>new blueprint for making and selling truly sustainable clothes. On

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<v Speaker 1>a damp, de summer morning in the mountainous district of

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<v Speaker 1>Ambarawa in Central Java, a woman in an inky, black

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<v Speaker 1>sleeveless vest and gathered skirt, balances herself on the back

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<v Speaker 1>of a motorbike that carries her through a small village,

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<v Speaker 1>past houses adorned with tropical plants and bird cages, and

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<v Speaker 1>into a forest. The land here, some three hundred miles

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<v Speaker 1>east of Indonesia's capital of Jakarta, brims with shrubs and

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<v Speaker 1>trees that grow a variety of crops, including cassava and coffee.

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<v Speaker 1>But it's the forest floor that's brought Danika Riyadi Ni

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<v Speaker 1>Flesh thirty four to this corner of her home country.

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<v Speaker 1>Under the shade of banana, papaya, and cocoanut trees, she's

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<v Speaker 1>trying to seed a revolution in the form of hundreds

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<v Speaker 1>of vibrant indigo plants, all casting a glossy viridescence across

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<v Speaker 1>the soil. Riadini Flesh is the founder of Sukasita, a

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<v Speaker 1>fashion brand that partners with hundreds of Indonesian farmers and

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<v Speaker 1>artisans on Java and in neighboring Vali Flores and West Timor,

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<v Speaker 1>and it's her company then inspired the success of the

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<v Speaker 1>spurgeon and crop. Indigo comes in many varieties, but one

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<v Speaker 1>commonly used is Ambarawa. Needs profuse sunlight. Riadini Flesh realized

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<v Speaker 1>that boosting growth would require cutting down trees. Instead, she

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<v Speaker 1>offered the farmers an alternative, a hardy varietal called assam indigo,

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<v Speaker 1>which flourishes in the shade. To day. The forest is

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<v Speaker 1>a wash with indigo that brings vital income into the

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<v Speaker 1>community while fueling a kaleidoscope of colorful dyes for Sukasita's clothing.

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<v Speaker 1>This includes the very garments Riadini Flesh is wearing, which

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<v Speaker 1>achieve their botanical black hue after being dipped into fermented

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<v Speaker 1>indigo leaves thirty times. Such a meticulous process is at

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<v Speaker 1>the heart of Suka Sita's environmentally responsible and ethical fashion brand.

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<v Speaker 1>The Kappas Kabaya vest she's wearing retails for three hundred

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<v Speaker 1>and twenty dollars, and the Angkasa Constellation cane, a fabric

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<v Speaker 1>she ties into a sarong, sells for about five hundred dollars,

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<v Speaker 1>pricing that reflects the workmanship of each garment. As she

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<v Speaker 1>stands among the trees, Rihadini Flesh exudes a sense of

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<v Speaker 1>awe that she hopes to convey to her customers. This,

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<v Speaker 1>she says, excitedly, is a fashion forest. Indigo is just

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<v Speaker 1>one ingrediment ingredient in Suka Sita's radically transparent supply chain.

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<v Speaker 1>Every piece of fabric in the brand's farm to Closet

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<v Speaker 1>collection is crafted out of one hundred percent plants, from

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<v Speaker 1>traceable natural fibers to regeneratively grown plant dyes. Cotton fibers

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<v Speaker 1>are hand spun and woven on manual looms. Fabrics are

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<v Speaker 1>decorated by indigenous artisans practicing an intricate hand drawn wax

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<v Speaker 1>technique called batis, before being dipped into vats of color,

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<v Speaker 1>dried in the sun, and finally cut and stitched into clothing.

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<v Speaker 1>The entire process from seed to garment takes about sixty

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<v Speaker 1>to one hundred eighty days. Once completed, clothing is sent

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<v Speaker 1>to Sukosita's flagship store in Jakarta, marketed online, or sold

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<v Speaker 1>at select boutiques in Singapore and New York, where clients

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<v Speaker 1>are increasingly inclined to by their dollars tourt an elegant

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<v Speaker 1>dress or a pair of pants designed by brands that

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<v Speaker 1>prioritize their social and environmental impact on the world. The

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<v Speaker 1>so called slow fashion movement has a ridden in direct

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<v Speaker 1>opposition to the values of fast fashion. The prevailing factory

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<v Speaker 1>lead process thats rife with excess and waste. Many of

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<v Speaker 1>today's clothing makers contribute to a one hundred billion dollar

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<v Speaker 1>plus industry of cheap polyester T shirts and spandex leggings,

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<v Speaker 1>which comes at the cost of both exploited workers and

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<v Speaker 1>the environment. In Indonesia, the Sietaurum River, a mainsae source

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<v Speaker 1>of drinking water and irrigation, is contaminated by toxic chemicals

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<v Speaker 1>dumped into the waterway by the textile factories that line

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<v Speaker 1>its banks, and the global impact stretches farther from the

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<v Speaker 1>Atacama Desert in northern Chile to a landfill outside of

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<v Speaker 1>Ghana's capital of Acraa mountains of discarded clothes pile higher

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<v Speaker 1>each year. Riodini Flesh believes that empowering consumers with knowledge

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<v Speaker 1>about how their clothes were made, be it the plants

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<v Speaker 1>that color them more the artisans who stitch them, will

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<v Speaker 1>lead to a deeper relationship with what they wear, a

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<v Speaker 1>stronger appreciation for both the craft and the product, and

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<v Speaker 1>a realization that the choices we make as consumers directly

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<v Speaker 1>affect people in the planet. She's already drawn an impressive

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<v Speaker 1>roster of influential supporters, rock musician Chris Martin from cold Play,

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<v Speaker 1>National Geographic Explorer at Large and oceanographer Sylvia Earle and

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<v Speaker 1>celebrated cellist Yo Yoman have been spotted in Sukasita garments.

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<v Speaker 1>Denika journey is testament to the best kind of cultural thinking,

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<v Speaker 1>says Mah, who is kept in touch with the founder,

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<v Speaker 1>powered by a willingness to put in deep work with head,

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<v Speaker 1>heart and hands. Sukasita is not the first brand to

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<v Speaker 1>provide an alternative blueprint to how fashion is created, and

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<v Speaker 1>it's met a fundamental truth had on Clothes made with

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<v Speaker 1>care and intention are going to be relatively more expensive

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<v Speaker 1>than the alternatives, but Riadini Flesh believes that if shoppers

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<v Speaker 1>understand the value of what they're paying for, they'll realize

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<v Speaker 1>that cheap garments bear a far greater cost. Clothes won't

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<v Speaker 1>change the world, but the people wearing them will. She

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<v Speaker 1>says her journey started with thinking about how she could

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<v Speaker 1>use her own knowledge as a bridge to uplift others

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<v Speaker 1>and replenish the planet. While Indonesia has made strides in

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<v Speaker 1>reducing poverty, nine percent of the population still struggles to

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<v Speaker 1>make a living wage. That's roughly twenty four million people,

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<v Speaker 1>many of whom live in rural villages. Growing up in Jakarta,

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<v Speaker 1>Riadini Flesh experience the country's deeply ruins, did issues with inequality,

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<v Speaker 1>and studied developmental economics in college. After a stint working

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<v Speaker 1>at the World Bank, she gained her most sobering understanding

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<v Speaker 1>of what that truth looks like when she began traveling

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<v Speaker 1>the countryside in twenty thirteen. Riodini Flesch knew nothing about fashion,

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<v Speaker 1>but one day she met three batique artisans in a

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<v Speaker 1>village on the outskirts of Tuban in East Java. The

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<v Speaker 1>women told her that they had learned the ancient craft

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<v Speaker 1>from their mothers, who had used natural dyes to color

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<v Speaker 1>their fabrics, but their tradition was at risk. With limited resources,

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<v Speaker 1>the artisans had switched to cheaper and work readily available

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<v Speaker 1>chemical dyes that burned their lungs. Yet, even when they

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<v Speaker 1>could not compete with the speed of factory printed at textiles,

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<v Speaker 1>all were mothers or abus who worried about feeding their families.

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<v Speaker 1>Until then, Riodini Flesh had never thought about how clothing

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<v Speaker 1>was created. It may be realized that without not knowing it,

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<v Speaker 1>I was part of the problem, she says in the

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<v Speaker 1>months that followed, Rieti Flesh saw other problems in the

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<v Speaker 1>modern fashion supply chain, which affected not only the artisans,

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<v Speaker 1>but also farmers who had abandoned cotton growing for monocultural

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<v Speaker 1>crops like corn, thereby degrading the health of the soil

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<v Speaker 1>plants and wildlife that thrived with agricultural diversity. Both of

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<v Speaker 1>these age old practices, craft and farming, were deeply rooted

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<v Speaker 1>in village life. They just needed to be restored. Slow Fashion,

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<v Speaker 1>she realized, could create a new vehicle for change. Early on,

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<v Speaker 1>the IBus were wary of Riadini Flesh because of stark

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<v Speaker 1>class divisions in Indonesian society. Although she had only two

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<v Speaker 1>thousand dollars to invest, she put the money into paying

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<v Speaker 1>the batique artisans a living wage, which allowed her to

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<v Speaker 1>create her first sample, a bandana she called Cupoo or Butterfly.

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<v Speaker 1>By twenty nineteen, three years after incorporating, the company had

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<v Speaker 1>drawn enough interest from residents near Tubon to open its

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<v Speaker 1>first craft school with the Ruma Suka Sita Foundation, which

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<v Speaker 1>is funded by the company's profits, donations, grants, and entrepreneurship

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<v Speaker 1>awards from non profits and AIDS groups. The school provide

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<v Speaker 1>workshops where artisans can teach botique to younger generations, and

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<v Speaker 1>farmers can learn about regenerative ways to plant cotton. Villagers

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<v Speaker 1>are now leveraging an indigenous technique known locally as tupang sari,

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<v Speaker 1>which prioritizes the cultivation of multiple plants together, allowing them

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<v Speaker 1>to nourish each other. Cotton is planted alongside corn, which

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<v Speaker 1>provides shade, chilis help control past and peanuts add nitrogen

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<v Speaker 1>to the soil. The approach allows rural Indonesians to grow

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<v Speaker 1>cotton for sucasita while providing more food for their families

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<v Speaker 1>and additional vegetables or nuts that can be sold for

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<v Speaker 1>extra income. Now, Riodini Flesh and the ebus embrace each

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<v Speaker 1>other as family. On a recent visit, she bantered with

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<v Speaker 1>the women as they dip their tools or chantings into

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<v Speaker 1>bowels of hot wax and traced motifs onto fabric. A

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<v Speaker 1>sense of trust enveloped the group. Reclaiming their craft has

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<v Speaker 1>allowed the women to restore their identity. It is a

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<v Speaker 1>blood that flows through our veins, one of the ebus

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<v Speaker 1>once told Riadini Flesh, it's hot wax. From the start,

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<v Speaker 1>Sukasita has worked to raise the standard of living for

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<v Speaker 1>the people in its partner villages. That includes using some

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<v Speaker 1>profits to create grants for villagers who are interested in

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<v Speaker 1>purching purchasing farm land. The women are also trained to

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<v Speaker 1>reappraise both the social and monetary value of their work.

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<v Speaker 1>Rather than negotiate payment after their labor is complete as

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<v Speaker 1>many had in the past, they are taught to track

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<v Speaker 1>the time it takes them to complete a design or

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<v Speaker 1>even a cotton harvest. Sukasita then uses that number to

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<v Speaker 1>calculate a higher wage, increasing their income significantly. Initiatives like

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<v Speaker 1>these have established Riadhini Flesh as a role model for

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<v Speaker 1>other entrepreneurs and helped boost the companies following on social media.

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<v Speaker 1>Sukasita's clothes have been featured in vogues Singapore edition and

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<v Speaker 1>sales are now increasing by thirty to forty percent annually,

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<v Speaker 1>she says, allowing the company to bring economic opportunities to

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<v Speaker 1>the villagers. Linna Setiyowati, thirty two, received a grant from

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<v Speaker 1>Sukasita to purchase two and a half acre lot plot

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<v Speaker 1>of land, which she nourished back to health after its

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<v Speaker 1>degradation by chemical wheat killers and fertilizers. She is now

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<v Speaker 1>following the principles of Tupang Sari as she waits for

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<v Speaker 1>her cotton bowls to be ready for harvest. The land

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<v Speaker 1>is fresher, she says, it's healthy, and most important, it's hers.

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<v Speaker 1>Across the globe, other entrepreneurs are developing their own slow

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<v Speaker 1>fashion enterprises. The offerings range from ethically sourced alpaca sweaters

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<v Speaker 1>made in Peru to began leather derived from Sicilian cacti

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<v Speaker 1>and oranges. Angela Jolie recently opened to workshop in Manhattan

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<v Speaker 1>where clients can remake their own garments into new, one

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<v Speaker 1>of a kind designs. Concludes readings from National Geographic magazine

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<v Speaker 1>for to day, your reader has been Marsha. Thank you

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<v Speaker 1>for listening, Keep on listening and have a great day.
