WEBVTT 1 00:00:00.760 --> 00:00:03.960 Welcome. This is Marsha for RADIOI, and today I will 2 00:00:04.000 --> 00:00:08.880 be reading National Geographic magazine dated June twenty twenty five, 3 00:00:09.599 --> 00:00:13.119 which is donated by the publisher as a reminder. Radio 4 00:00:13.160 --> 00:00:15.599 Eye is a reading service intended for people who are 5 00:00:15.599 --> 00:00:19.359 blind or have other disabilities that make it difficult to 6 00:00:19.399 --> 00:00:22.480 read printed material. Please join me now for the first 7 00:00:22.559 --> 00:00:27.760 article titled the Future of Fashion is Farm to Closet 8 00:00:28.440 --> 00:00:35.560 by Claudia Cawb. For her part, Riadini Flesh admires the 9 00:00:35.560 --> 00:00:39.960 French brand Visa, which makes sneakers out of organic cotton 10 00:00:40.039 --> 00:00:45.200 and Amazonian rubber like Visa, which rebranded the shopping frenzy 11 00:00:45.240 --> 00:00:50.679 of Black Friday to Repair Friday. Suka Chita encourages customers 12 00:00:50.719 --> 00:00:54.000 to return their clothing for mending or re dyeing, and 13 00:00:54.240 --> 00:00:58.399 the brand offers a lifetime repair guarantee. As Riadini Flesh 14 00:00:58.520 --> 00:01:01.119 sees it, these kinds of ventures offer new ways for 15 00:01:01.200 --> 00:01:05.920 people to understand that there's an alternative to extractive faction. 16 00:01:07.719 --> 00:01:12.439 I never consider ourselves to have competitors, she says, it's 17 00:01:12.439 --> 00:01:16.560 about changing the paradigm. One of her latest efforts transpired 18 00:01:16.599 --> 00:01:21.159 in November twenty twenty four, when Suka Sita opened a 19 00:01:21.200 --> 00:01:24.719 pop up boutique at an upscale mall, its second location 20 00:01:25.000 --> 00:01:28.519 in Jakarta. While the garments for sale range from an 21 00:01:28.519 --> 00:01:33.680 indigo shirt decorated with geometric stars to a yellow dress 22 00:01:33.719 --> 00:01:38.599 whose color is derived from Java's golden gilawe plant, one 23 00:01:38.599 --> 00:01:41.599 of the store's primary purposes is to showcase a traveling 24 00:01:41.640 --> 00:01:47.280 exhibition about Sukasita's supply chain. Glass containers hold soil from 25 00:01:47.319 --> 00:01:50.480 the villager's farms. The life cycle of a cotton plant 26 00:01:50.599 --> 00:01:53.959 is on display, and a video features interviews with the 27 00:01:54.000 --> 00:01:58.959 ibis showing the invisible love and labor behind each product. 28 00:01:59.519 --> 00:02:02.640 One of the most striking presentations explains how the brand's 29 00:02:02.680 --> 00:02:06.000 garments are specifically made to return to the earth rather 30 00:02:06.040 --> 00:02:09.240 than wind up in landfills. A display case lined with 31 00:02:09.360 --> 00:02:13.000 soil shows a single cut of Sukasita cotton as it 32 00:02:13.080 --> 00:02:17.639 degrades progressively over the course of six weeks, ultimately returning 33 00:02:17.719 --> 00:02:21.439 into tiny fragments that can be used in compost. Riadini 34 00:02:21.479 --> 00:02:25.039 Flesh hopes to take the exhibition international, sharing it at 35 00:02:25.120 --> 00:02:29.080 more pop up stores in part to inspire other brands. 36 00:02:29.120 --> 00:02:32.479 She's also tracking how well her practices are working by 37 00:02:32.520 --> 00:02:37.719 earning fair labor and environmental impact certifications from watchdog groups 38 00:02:37.800 --> 00:02:41.919 like NEST, a nonprofit that verifies ethical work standards, and 39 00:02:42.000 --> 00:02:46.680 the Science Based Targets Initiative, a climate action organization that 40 00:02:46.759 --> 00:02:51.680 measures greenhouse gas emissions. Recently, Sukasita became the first fashion 41 00:02:51.759 --> 00:02:56.759 company in Indonesia to secure b Corp certification as a 42 00:02:56.800 --> 00:03:00.280 business that is committed to transparency and account of BBILIT. 43 00:03:01.120 --> 00:03:05.280 The brand's approach signals a remarkable mix of business acumen 44 00:03:05.400 --> 00:03:08.840 and social purpose. By not just scaling for profit, but 45 00:03:08.919 --> 00:03:14.039 also scaling impact, says Sarah Schwimmer, who runs b lab Global, 46 00:03:14.280 --> 00:03:18.000 the nonprofit behind the certification, she is demonstrating a new 47 00:03:18.039 --> 00:03:21.439 way forward. Shwimmer says, over the past four years, the 48 00:03:21.479 --> 00:03:25.080 brand has opened four additional craft schools, launched a spin 49 00:03:25.120 --> 00:03:30.520 off materials platform so that others can source Sukasita's regenerative materials, 50 00:03:30.879 --> 00:03:35.039 and established partnerships with eleven villages. The company plans to 51 00:03:35.120 --> 00:03:38.120 cap rather than grow that number so it can boost 52 00:03:38.199 --> 00:03:42.159 the resources it provides to each location. So far, Sukasita 53 00:03:42.240 --> 00:03:46.439 has helped communities transform roughly one hundred eighteen acres of 54 00:03:46.560 --> 00:03:50.199 previously commercial farm land, which has had a direct impact 55 00:03:50.280 --> 00:03:53.840 on more than fifteen hundred lives. There By twenty thirty, 56 00:03:53.879 --> 00:03:56.639 it expects to ramp up to more than twenty four 57 00:03:56.719 --> 00:04:00.719 hundred acres in reach up to ten thousand people. One 58 00:04:00.759 --> 00:04:04.520 thing Sukusita will do will not do is follow traditional 59 00:04:04.879 --> 00:04:10.000 seasonal fashion calendars or over exert the artisans or the 60 00:04:10.080 --> 00:04:13.560 land it manages. If demand for our product's sky rockets 61 00:04:13.599 --> 00:04:15.960 and the elements won't allow it, the company will simply 62 00:04:16.000 --> 00:04:19.040 be sold out. You cannot have infinite growth on a 63 00:04:19.079 --> 00:04:23.519 finite planet. Riadini Flesh says it is wisdom shared by 64 00:04:23.560 --> 00:04:27.000 the Ibis, who also taught Randini Flesh a philosophy that 65 00:04:27.079 --> 00:04:32.040 inspires her every day. Urip Iku urup. We live to 66 00:04:32.120 --> 00:04:36.519 bring light next expeditions on safari, there's no telling what 67 00:04:36.600 --> 00:04:40.279 might crush your path, and in South Africa's Greater Kruger Area, 68 00:04:40.399 --> 00:04:43.439 rhinos have right of way. But there's a lot more 69 00:04:43.519 --> 00:04:47.199 than walk wildlife watching to the newest land itinerary from 70 00:04:47.279 --> 00:04:52.600 Northern Geographic Expeditions. The Nine Days Southern Africa Living History 71 00:04:52.600 --> 00:04:55.879 and Legendary Species Journey begins with a visit to a 72 00:04:55.959 --> 00:04:58.959 vibrant neighborhood of Cape Town and a walk in Table 73 00:04:59.000 --> 00:05:02.720 Mountain National Park. After taking in turbulent seascapes at the 74 00:05:02.759 --> 00:05:06.560 Cape of Good Hope and a colony of endangered African penguins. 75 00:05:06.600 --> 00:05:11.040 Guests head to Sabi Sabi Private Game Reserve ordering Kruger 76 00:05:11.120 --> 00:05:14.639 National Park and home to some four hundred species of wildlife. 77 00:05:14.920 --> 00:05:17.480 A bush lodge is base camp for three days of 78 00:05:17.519 --> 00:05:21.879 safaris and talks with trackers, rangers and national geographic experts. 79 00:05:22.439 --> 00:05:26.920 The trip ends in Zombia at the foot of Victoria Falls, 80 00:05:27.399 --> 00:05:31.120 near where elders of the Lea people share their traditions 81 00:05:31.199 --> 00:05:35.000 during a village tour. That rhino encounter might not even 82 00:05:35.000 --> 00:05:39.519 make your top five list. Next Explorers of the Year 83 00:05:39.759 --> 00:05:47.040 Pablo Poppy Garcia Borboroglu and Bertie Gregory. As a boy 84 00:05:47.199 --> 00:05:51.839 growing up in Argentina's Buenos Aires Province, Pablo Poppy Garcia 85 00:05:52.240 --> 00:05:56.600 Borboroglu was enchanted by his grandmother's tales of her youthful 86 00:05:56.680 --> 00:06:01.360 visits to the teeming penguin colonies of Argentine Patagonia. He 87 00:06:01.519 --> 00:06:03.680 was a nineteen year old tour guide when he first 88 00:06:03.759 --> 00:06:06.720 glimpsed one, and it dawned on him then how important 89 00:06:06.759 --> 00:06:09.160 it was to share with others his sense of awe, 90 00:06:09.279 --> 00:06:13.399 inspiring them to protect penguins and their habitats a hemisphere away. 91 00:06:13.480 --> 00:06:17.439 Bertie Gregory came to a similar realization as a teenage 92 00:06:17.439 --> 00:06:21.560 wildlife photographer roaming the English countryside. Today, at thirty one, 93 00:06:21.639 --> 00:06:25.639 he's an accomplished wildlife filmmaker and leads storyteller behind the 94 00:06:25.680 --> 00:06:29.600 new National Geographic series Secrets of the Penguins, on which 95 00:06:29.600 --> 00:06:33.560 he worked with Warboroglu, now a marine biologist and founder 96 00:06:33.600 --> 00:06:37.519 and President of the Global Penguin Society. For their efforts, 97 00:06:37.560 --> 00:06:41.560 Warbaro Blue and Gregory have been named the twenty twenty 98 00:06:41.560 --> 00:06:46.240 five Rolex National Geographic Explorers of the Year. Pope Garcia, 99 00:06:46.319 --> 00:06:50.399 Barbaro Blue and Bertie Gregory exemplify the power of collaboration 100 00:06:50.959 --> 00:06:57.360 in exploration, says National Geographic Society CEO Jill Tiefenthaler. By 101 00:06:57.439 --> 00:07:01.639 uniting crown breaking conservation science with me master storytelling, they 102 00:07:01.680 --> 00:07:05.480 not only deepen our understanding of penguins, but galvanize global 103 00:07:05.519 --> 00:07:10.800 action to protect them. Barbaro Blue's initiatives to create protected 104 00:07:10.839 --> 00:07:15.199 areas for penguins have helped conserve some thirty two million 105 00:07:15.240 --> 00:07:19.360 acres of habitat on land at sea. Now fifty five, 106 00:07:19.439 --> 00:07:22.480 he takes inspiration from the bird's resilience the way they 107 00:07:22.560 --> 00:07:26.120 swim hundreds or even thousands of miles for food, avoid 108 00:07:26.160 --> 00:07:30.600 predators and pollution, and survive in environments increasingly affected by 109 00:07:30.639 --> 00:07:33.959 climate change. When you see penguins making that big effort, 110 00:07:33.959 --> 00:07:37.279 he reflects, you say, how can I give up? Warbaro 111 00:07:37.399 --> 00:07:40.560 Glue and Gregory shared a spotlight in last month's Secret 112 00:07:40.600 --> 00:07:43.480 of the Penguins cover story, and there's more on their 113 00:07:43.519 --> 00:07:49.319 adventures with penguins at Nationalgeographic dot com. Being recognized as 114 00:07:49.560 --> 00:07:53.800 an Explorer of the Year alongside his filmmaker friend Boubaroglue 115 00:07:53.959 --> 00:07:58.000 says is fantastic, a great combination of different kinds of 116 00:07:58.040 --> 00:08:03.560 explorers and expertise. When you see penguins making that big 117 00:08:03.600 --> 00:08:06.199 effort for Baro Glue reflects, you say, how can I 118 00:08:06.199 --> 00:08:09.399 give up? At first, Gregory says he was hesitant to 119 00:08:09.399 --> 00:08:12.959 make a documentary about penguins. The Emmy winning host of 120 00:08:13.000 --> 00:08:16.759 the Disney Plus series Animals Up Close, who was shot 121 00:08:16.800 --> 00:08:22.800 for iconic series like Planet Earth and Frozen Planet, knew 122 00:08:22.879 --> 00:08:26.040 that filming in penguins harsh habitats would be tough, and 123 00:08:26.199 --> 00:08:29.720 worried the species was already plenty documented. If you're going 124 00:08:29.800 --> 00:08:32.519 to make a series called Secrets of the penguins. He says, 125 00:08:32.799 --> 00:08:35.399 you've got to show people something they've never seen before. 126 00:08:35.960 --> 00:08:38.840 But Gregory embraced the challenge to film one of the 127 00:08:38.879 --> 00:08:42.200 series three episodes. He camped for more than two months 128 00:08:42.240 --> 00:08:47.240 near an Emperor penguin colony in Antarctica's at Kabay. He 129 00:08:47.320 --> 00:08:50.279 was documenting a critical phase in a penguin's life cycle, 130 00:08:50.639 --> 00:08:53.960 when juveniles abandoned by their parents are left to figure 131 00:08:53.960 --> 00:08:57.399 out how to become a proper adult penguin, getting themselves 132 00:08:57.440 --> 00:09:02.279 to the ocean to swim and hunt. He succeeded spectacularly 133 00:09:02.399 --> 00:09:07.200 in capturing behaviors never before filmed, including footage of hundreds 134 00:09:07.240 --> 00:09:10.879 of young Emperor penguins entering the sea by base jumping 135 00:09:11.879 --> 00:09:15.000 off a fifty foot cliff. I really think it's going 136 00:09:15.000 --> 00:09:17.519 to blow people's minds, he says. I thought I knew 137 00:09:17.559 --> 00:09:21.639 what penguin's limits were. I was wrong. This article by 138 00:09:21.679 --> 00:09:26.559 Renee Ebersol next the candy colored beauty of sea urchins. 139 00:09:26.919 --> 00:09:30.600 These tiny animals protect coral reefs, but they need protection too. 140 00:09:32.360 --> 00:09:36.960 Beneath sea urchins, exterior spines, rounded skeletons called tests are 141 00:09:37.080 --> 00:09:40.120 jewels of color, texture, and symmetry. There are hundreds of 142 00:09:40.240 --> 00:09:43.159 urchin species, and they're found in every ocean on Earth, 143 00:09:43.600 --> 00:09:46.639 from the intertidal zone to more than four miles below 144 00:09:46.679 --> 00:09:51.440 the surface. In twenty eighteen, Anders Holland, a research associate 145 00:09:51.519 --> 00:09:55.720 at the Australian Museum in Sydney, began photographing urchin skeletons 146 00:09:55.720 --> 00:09:58.759 that had washed up on beaches or been collected by 147 00:09:58.799 --> 00:10:02.799 divers and tho on fishing or research vessels. He created 148 00:10:02.840 --> 00:10:06.840 the composite image over a course of a week in 149 00:10:06.919 --> 00:10:12.879 twenty twenty four, using seventy six individual photographs. The project 150 00:10:12.960 --> 00:10:15.960 comes at a perilous moment for these creatures. Since twenty 151 00:10:16.000 --> 00:10:20.480 twenty two, sea urchins have been plagued by a scuticlotiniate, 152 00:10:21.039 --> 00:10:23.960 a single celled pathogen that eats away at the animal's 153 00:10:24.000 --> 00:10:27.279 soft tissue and makes their spines fall off. A mass 154 00:10:27.399 --> 00:10:30.240 die off that started in the Caribbean that year has 155 00:10:30.320 --> 00:10:33.840 since spread east, likely through the Mediterranean, into the Red 156 00:10:33.840 --> 00:10:37.840 Sea and Indian Ocean. In some survey locations, researchers found 157 00:10:37.879 --> 00:10:41.480 thousands of dead urchins. The animal's survival is vital to 158 00:10:41.559 --> 00:10:45.200 the health of reefs, where they eat algae that can 159 00:10:45.240 --> 00:10:48.559 smother coral. It's one of the many reasons Halan is 160 00:10:48.559 --> 00:10:53.879 committed to capturing their beauty. They are really quite ingeniously evolved. 161 00:10:54.600 --> 00:11:00.480 This by Hicks Wogan. The next articles from March April 162 00:11:00.559 --> 00:11:05.919 twenty twenty four National Geographic History Magazine. Three thousand year 163 00:11:05.960 --> 00:11:09.879 old tombs surprises scholars in Peru. A high priest's grave 164 00:11:10.039 --> 00:11:13.720 dates to an earlier era than expected, yielding a new 165 00:11:13.799 --> 00:11:17.679 understanding of the history of the ancient Andes. Archaeologists in 166 00:11:17.759 --> 00:11:20.559 northern Peru have discovered a three thousand year old burial. 167 00:11:21.120 --> 00:11:23.919 Inside it lay one of the first priests in ancient 168 00:11:23.960 --> 00:11:26.919 Andean history, a man who lived well before the time 169 00:11:26.960 --> 00:11:30.639 of the Inca. The discovery was made in the Paco 170 00:11:30.759 --> 00:11:35.039 Pampa Archaeological Complex, a forty acre site of monumental and 171 00:11:35.120 --> 00:11:39.000 ceremonial structures that was active between twelve hundred and seven 172 00:11:39.120 --> 00:11:43.440 hundred BC. Over nearly twenty years, the project of archaeological 173 00:11:43.519 --> 00:11:48.759 Investigation has discovered numerous fines at Paco Pampa. The latest one, 174 00:11:48.879 --> 00:11:53.039 a skeleton of an ancient religious leader interred there around 175 00:11:53.039 --> 00:11:57.039 one thousand BC, has been named the Priests of Pacopampa 176 00:11:57.240 --> 00:12:00.679 because of his tomb's contents. Buried with him were three 177 00:12:00.720 --> 00:12:04.639 stamps or seals The first seal resembles a jaguar, indicating 178 00:12:04.679 --> 00:12:07.759 the priest's status as a leader who could harness the 179 00:12:07.799 --> 00:12:11.679 animal's spiritual power. The second one depicts a human face, 180 00:12:12.039 --> 00:12:13.879 and the third is in the shape of a hand. 181 00:12:14.440 --> 00:12:17.159 Scholars believe people dipped the seals in paint and then 182 00:12:17.240 --> 00:12:20.759 stamped the images on the priest's skin. The find is 183 00:12:20.799 --> 00:12:25.879 extremely important, says Yuji Seiki, who leads researchers from Japan's 184 00:12:25.960 --> 00:12:30.480 National Museum of Ethnology and Peru's National University of San 185 00:12:30.559 --> 00:12:34.840 Marcos Deep Connections. The discovery of the priest is helping 186 00:12:35.039 --> 00:12:40.799 archaeologists at Pacopampa pinpoint when a powerful priestly class first 187 00:12:40.840 --> 00:12:45.080 appeared in the region. Seiki explains that Pacopampa was at 188 00:12:45.080 --> 00:12:48.360 one time a pilgrimage center where people from near and 189 00:12:48.399 --> 00:12:52.480 far came together to participate in religious rights. These group 190 00:12:53.080 --> 00:12:57.440 rituals are credited with creating the social conditions that allowed 191 00:12:57.440 --> 00:13:02.919 the earliest Andian civilizations to rise, says Siki. Similar burials 192 00:13:02.960 --> 00:13:05.720 such as the tomb of the Lady of Pacopampa found 193 00:13:05.720 --> 00:13:08.120 in two thousand and nine and the Tomb of the 194 00:13:08.200 --> 00:13:13.080 Serpent Jaguar Priests found in twenty fifteen, have important connections 195 00:13:13.080 --> 00:13:16.480 to the priest of Pacopampa, whose tomb may be as 196 00:13:16.480 --> 00:13:19.879 many as three hundred years older. Saiki believes that these 197 00:13:20.039 --> 00:13:24.559 later spiritual leaders made their relationship with ancestral elites visible 198 00:13:24.960 --> 00:13:28.200 through their burials. I consider this to be evidence of 199 00:13:28.279 --> 00:13:32.200 the incorporation of ancestor worship into the succession of power. 200 00:13:32.720 --> 00:13:36.879 Worshiping ancestors was of central importance to later Andian cultures 201 00:13:37.240 --> 00:13:41.360 in the region, such as the Wari ad five hundred 202 00:13:41.399 --> 00:13:46.279 two one thousand, the Tiawanaku circa a d. Six hundred 203 00:13:46.320 --> 00:13:49.399 to one thousand, and ultimately the Inca circa a d. 204 00:13:49.559 --> 00:13:53.720 Twelve hundred to fifteen thirty three. Excavations continue at the 205 00:13:53.799 --> 00:13:58.519 Pacopampa complex, with new discoveries on the horizon. In twenty 206 00:13:58.559 --> 00:14:01.919 twenty two, a priestly tomb the site was uncovered. Some 207 00:14:02.039 --> 00:14:04.960 believe it could be even older than the priest of Pacopampa, 208 00:14:05.360 --> 00:14:08.000 but analysis of the tomb and its contents is still 209 00:14:08.080 --> 00:14:13.679 under way. This article by Braden Phillips next Portsia, loyal 210 00:14:13.919 --> 00:14:18.120 Heroine of the Republic, a woman of firm political convictions. 211 00:14:18.120 --> 00:14:21.720 Porsia was the steadfast wife and staunch ally of Brutus 212 00:14:21.759 --> 00:14:25.039 and a key supporter of his murderous plot against Julius Caesar. 213 00:14:25.679 --> 00:14:29.840 When Julius Caesar seemed increasingly likely to embrace authoritarian rule, 214 00:14:30.279 --> 00:14:34.399 two men emerged as the Roman Republic's fiercest defenders, Cato 215 00:14:34.440 --> 00:14:37.320 the younger, who led resistance to Caesar in the Senate, 216 00:14:37.759 --> 00:14:41.960 and his nephew Marcus Junius Brutus, who led the conspiracy 217 00:14:42.000 --> 00:14:45.600 to assassinate Caesar. But there was another key player in 218 00:14:45.639 --> 00:14:49.480 the tumultus events surrounding Caesar's end, a woman who would 219 00:14:49.480 --> 00:14:53.799 come to embody strength under pressure an unwavering loyalty. Her 220 00:14:53.879 --> 00:14:57.360 name was Porsia, daughter of Cato and wife of Brutus. 221 00:14:57.360 --> 00:15:02.200 Porscha Catonis circa seventy three to forty three BC was 222 00:15:02.320 --> 00:15:04.720 the only woman who was privy to the plot. As 223 00:15:04.720 --> 00:15:10.039 the Roman historian Cassius Dio described her. PUSH's courage, logical mind, 224 00:15:10.080 --> 00:15:13.919 and willingness to sacrifice were celebrated by Roman historians and 225 00:15:14.080 --> 00:15:18.639 centuries later immortalized in William Shakespeare's fifteen ninety nine Tragedy 226 00:15:18.759 --> 00:15:23.039 Julius Caesar. Many factors shaped to this extraordinary person, but 227 00:15:23.159 --> 00:15:27.120 two stand out. The volatile political climate and the teachings 228 00:15:27.159 --> 00:15:30.919 of her father. Growing up Stoic. Much of what is 229 00:15:30.960 --> 00:15:34.679 known about Portia comes largely from Greek historian Plutarch in 230 00:15:34.759 --> 00:15:38.360 his books about Brutus and Cato, and from Cassius Dio's 231 00:15:38.480 --> 00:15:42.039 Roman History, along with mentions and other works. In all 232 00:15:42.080 --> 00:15:45.320 ancient references, she is remembered as the member of younger 233 00:15:45.399 --> 00:15:48.840 Cato's family who is most committed to her father's cause. 234 00:15:49.200 --> 00:15:53.759 According to Judith P. Hallett, Professor Emerita of Classics at 235 00:15:53.799 --> 00:15:56.840 the University of Maryland, an author of Fathers and Daughters 236 00:15:56.840 --> 00:16:01.399 in Roman Society, Women and the Elite Family, Porsia's father, 237 00:16:01.559 --> 00:16:04.159 Cato the Younger, so named to distinguish him from his 238 00:16:04.240 --> 00:16:08.679 great grandfather Cato the Elder, was an old Guard aristocrat 239 00:16:08.720 --> 00:16:14.279 and Republican. A devotee of Stoic philosophy, Kato put virtue 240 00:16:14.279 --> 00:16:18.879 and civic responsibility above all else, an uncompromising idealism that 241 00:16:19.000 --> 00:16:22.679 deeply influenced his daughter. Early in the second century i d. 242 00:16:22.960 --> 00:16:27.000 Plutarch wrote that Portia was addicted to philosophy and praised 243 00:16:27.000 --> 00:16:30.919 her sober living and greatness of spirit in keeping with 244 00:16:31.000 --> 00:16:35.440 the Stoic rejection of luxury and commitment to justice. Based 245 00:16:35.480 --> 00:16:38.840 on his depiction, Porsia is often regarded as the first 246 00:16:38.919 --> 00:16:43.240 female Stoic marriages and divorces. As a very young woman, 247 00:16:43.320 --> 00:16:45.840 Portio was wed to a political ally of her father. 248 00:16:46.360 --> 00:16:51.480 She and Marcus Calpurnius Bibulus would have due children together 249 00:16:51.559 --> 00:16:55.879 before their relationship became complicated by a distinctive Roman practice. 250 00:16:56.279 --> 00:17:01.480 In addition to arranged marriages, elite Romans also practiced arranged divorces, 251 00:17:01.600 --> 00:17:05.240 ending one match in favor of another that was more advantageous. 252 00:17:05.920 --> 00:17:08.960 Portia was about twenty when one such proposal came her way. 253 00:17:09.359 --> 00:17:14.680 Another of her father's allies, Quintus Hortensius Hortalus, asked to 254 00:17:14.720 --> 00:17:18.640 marry her. The aging childless widower wanted Portia as his 255 00:17:18.680 --> 00:17:21.480 wife in order to have an heir with her. After 256 00:17:21.559 --> 00:17:24.279 she gave birth, you promised to return her to Bibulus. 257 00:17:24.839 --> 00:17:28.759 Bibulus was not a fan of this proposal and refused it. 258 00:17:28.960 --> 00:17:33.079 Cato also disliked the idea of breaking his contract with Bibulus. 259 00:17:33.599 --> 00:17:38.079 To avoid alienating Hortensius, Cato agreed to divorce his own wife, 260 00:17:38.160 --> 00:17:42.599 Marcia and offered her instead. Hortensius agreed, and the plan 261 00:17:42.680 --> 00:17:48.359 went ahead. After Hortensia's death, Cato would remarry Marcia. Portia's 262 00:17:48.440 --> 00:17:52.279 high profile family was deeply involved with the Roman Civil 263 00:17:52.319 --> 00:17:56.160 War that began in forty nine BC. When Caesar refused 264 00:17:56.200 --> 00:17:59.559 to yield his armies and territories to the Republic. Rome 265 00:18:00.000 --> 00:18:02.839 split into two factions, one led by Caesar and the 266 00:18:02.880 --> 00:18:07.640 other led by Pompei. The conservative Cato and Bibelius both 267 00:18:07.680 --> 00:18:11.599 aligned with pompe and found themselves on the losing side 268 00:18:11.640 --> 00:18:16.160 of the war. Bibelius, leader of Pompey's fleet on the Adriatic, 269 00:18:16.519 --> 00:18:19.759 died of illness around forty eight BC. Cato took his 270 00:18:19.799 --> 00:18:24.119 own life in Utica modern day Tunisia when Caesar's troops 271 00:18:24.480 --> 00:18:28.880 won the nearby Battle of Thopsus in forty six BC. 272 00:18:30.559 --> 00:18:34.200 In Rome, Portia watched as Caesar amassed power. Rather than 273 00:18:34.279 --> 00:18:37.440 resign herself to a dictatorship, she continued to believe in 274 00:18:37.480 --> 00:18:40.880 the Old Republic. In forty five BC, she married Marcus 275 00:18:40.960 --> 00:18:45.599 Junius Brutus, a one time alli of Caesar who would 276 00:18:45.720 --> 00:18:49.559 famously turn against him during the war. Brutus sided with Pompey, 277 00:18:50.079 --> 00:18:53.039 but in the after meepa the war, Caesar pardoned him 278 00:18:53.359 --> 00:18:58.160 and even made him governor of Cisilpine Gaul northern Italy. 279 00:18:58.599 --> 00:19:01.720 Brutus's sympathies for the Old Republic, however, had not waned. 280 00:19:02.160 --> 00:19:05.200 Marrying Cato's daughter and divorcing his wife Claudia. To do 281 00:19:05.319 --> 00:19:10.119 so was a way to reaffirm his commitment plans and plots. 282 00:19:10.279 --> 00:19:13.160 In the months that followed, Brutus, along with other senators, 283 00:19:13.480 --> 00:19:17.440 alarmed by Caesar's ambition, embarked on a plot to assassinate him. 284 00:19:17.839 --> 00:19:21.240 Although politics was primarily a male domain in Roman culture, 285 00:19:21.640 --> 00:19:25.440 Pusia pledged to aid her husband because of her family's beliefs. 286 00:19:25.759 --> 00:19:28.559 According to Plutarch, she noticed a change in her husband 287 00:19:28.839 --> 00:19:32.480 and questioned him. When Brutus wouldn't answer, she wounded her 288 00:19:32.519 --> 00:19:35.039 own thigh with a knife. The act was a plead 289 00:19:35.039 --> 00:19:38.519 that her husband show her trust and respect. Brudus, I 290 00:19:38.559 --> 00:19:41.160 am Cato's daughter, and I was brought into thy house, 291 00:19:41.519 --> 00:19:44.480 not like a mere concubine to share thy bed and 292 00:19:44.559 --> 00:19:47.519 board merely, but to be a partner in thy joys 293 00:19:47.519 --> 00:19:52.160 and a partner in thy troubles. Her resolve prompted Brudus 294 00:19:52.200 --> 00:19:56.440 to reveal his plan to assassinate Caesar. Moreover, wrote Plutarch, 295 00:19:56.559 --> 00:19:59.119 she inspired him to see his plot to the end. 296 00:19:59.680 --> 00:20:02.759 When he he saw the wound. Brutus amazed and lifted 297 00:20:02.759 --> 00:20:05.400 his hands to heaven, prayed that he might succeed in 298 00:20:05.480 --> 00:20:09.720 his undertaking and thus show himself a worthy husband of Portia. 299 00:20:10.559 --> 00:20:14.960 After Caesar's death on March fifteenth, forty four BC, Brudus 300 00:20:14.960 --> 00:20:18.000 fled Rome to avoid the wrath of caesar loyalists, while 301 00:20:18.039 --> 00:20:21.480 Porsia remained in the capital. She followed her husband's fortunes 302 00:20:21.480 --> 00:20:25.200 as he fought to defend the republic against Octavian, Caesar's 303 00:20:25.200 --> 00:20:29.519 heir in alliance with Mark Antony. Finally, Porsia received the 304 00:20:29.559 --> 00:20:31.920 news that Brutus had been defeated in the Battle of 305 00:20:31.960 --> 00:20:36.000 Philippi forty two BC, and, like her father, Cato, had 306 00:20:36.000 --> 00:20:38.920 taken his own life. What happened next is not known 307 00:20:38.960 --> 00:20:42.400 for certain. The more dramatic ending has a devastated Porsia 308 00:20:42.480 --> 00:20:47.880 killing herself, either by swallowing hot coals or inhaling carbon monoxide. 309 00:20:48.400 --> 00:20:51.880 In one version, the poet Marshal Route that Porsia, seeking 310 00:20:51.880 --> 00:20:56.279 a weapon to enter life they had hidden by attendants, exclaimed, 311 00:20:56.559 --> 00:20:59.200 you know not yet that death cannot be denied. I 312 00:20:59.240 --> 00:21:02.319 had supposed that my father had taught you this lesson 313 00:21:02.440 --> 00:21:05.759 by his fate. She spoke, and with eager mouth swallowed 314 00:21:05.759 --> 00:21:10.880 the blazing coals. Plutarch tells a similar story symbol of strength. 315 00:21:11.079 --> 00:21:15.000 One key piece of evidence, however, puts Porsche's suicide in doubt. 316 00:21:15.359 --> 00:21:18.680 The Roman statesman and orator Cicero wrote a letter to 317 00:21:18.720 --> 00:21:22.759 Brudus in forty three BC lamenting Porsche's death, which means 318 00:21:22.759 --> 00:21:27.279 that Porsia died before her husband. Cicero's words implied that 319 00:21:27.359 --> 00:21:30.279 she died of natural causes. The legend of a violent 320 00:21:30.359 --> 00:21:34.079 suicide appeared later, but took root in the popular imagination. 321 00:21:34.640 --> 00:21:38.400 Plutarch has Brutus say of his wife, though she lacks 322 00:21:38.440 --> 00:21:40.920 the strength of men, she is as valiant and as 323 00:21:41.000 --> 00:21:43.559 active for the good of her country as the best 324 00:21:43.680 --> 00:21:47.680 of us. William Shakespeare in particular, found great inspiration in 325 00:21:47.680 --> 00:21:51.200 the character of Porsia through his reading of Plutarch. In 326 00:21:51.240 --> 00:21:55.519 addition to the historical character of Porsche in Julius Caesar, 327 00:21:55.599 --> 00:21:59.480 her name also appears in The Merchant of Venice fifteen 328 00:21:59.559 --> 00:22:02.359 ninety six to ninety eight, in which it is given 329 00:22:02.400 --> 00:22:05.920 to the brilliant woman determined to assert her herself in 330 00:22:06.119 --> 00:22:09.640 a male world by impersonating a lawyer. As a symbol 331 00:22:09.680 --> 00:22:14.160 of bravery and devotion. Portia has resonated through history. Abigail Adam's, 332 00:22:14.240 --> 00:22:17.359 wife of John Adams, the second U S President and 333 00:22:17.440 --> 00:22:21.200 first US Vice President, signed letters to him as Portia 334 00:22:21.640 --> 00:22:26.440 in recognition of the patriotic sacrifice of Brutus's stoic wife. 335 00:22:27.680 --> 00:22:33.319 This by Juan Louis Posadas. Next medieval times gave birth 336 00:22:33.400 --> 00:22:38.440 to modern fashion. Draped, shapeless garments were replaced by taller, pointier, 337 00:22:38.559 --> 00:22:41.799 and tighter clothes in fourteenth century Europe, when newly rich 338 00:22:41.880 --> 00:22:46.000 merchants vied with nobles to be in vogue. Plague, famine 339 00:22:46.000 --> 00:22:48.839 in war blighted the fourteenth century, but the period was 340 00:22:48.880 --> 00:22:52.680 also marked by an exciting revolution in fashion. Out went 341 00:22:52.799 --> 00:22:56.960 the beggy, amorphous robes that had been swathing people for centuries, 342 00:22:56.960 --> 00:23:01.880 and in came startlingly lean bodykindus styles that revealed the 343 00:23:01.960 --> 00:23:06.200 silhouette silhouette, at least for men. The sweeping transformation in 344 00:23:06.279 --> 00:23:09.880 European elite clothing is regarded by many historians as the 345 00:23:09.920 --> 00:23:14.000 birth of modern Western fashion. Aristocratic men and wealthy merchants 346 00:23:14.079 --> 00:23:18.480 started downing short, tight doublets, brightly colored woolen tights, and 347 00:23:18.559 --> 00:23:22.599 elaborate hoods with date dangling tails. Footwear that had long 348 00:23:22.640 --> 00:23:25.640 been hidden under robes was now revealed to the public gaze. 349 00:23:26.119 --> 00:23:30.559 These pointed leather shoes were known for their extremely long toes. 350 00:23:31.480 --> 00:23:34.039 Although the change was less marked for women, a shift 351 00:23:34.039 --> 00:23:37.720 in feminine style was also notable. They still wore dresses 352 00:23:37.759 --> 00:23:40.119 that concealed their legs, but the garments came in more 353 00:23:40.160 --> 00:23:43.920 colors and fabrics. The greatest change for women sat atop 354 00:23:43.960 --> 00:23:47.799 their heads, known as henyans. These head dresses could be 355 00:23:47.839 --> 00:23:51.720 a short, flat cap or a tall, pointy cone, veils 356 00:23:51.759 --> 00:23:54.759 often draped off the back, while the hat itself added 357 00:23:54.799 --> 00:24:00.000 height and accentuated the wearer's forehead. Tailored for individuals. Advanced 358 00:24:00.039 --> 00:24:03.599 as in garment construction played an essential part in changing 359 00:24:03.599 --> 00:24:08.640 the fashions. Earlier, textile manufacturer was shaped by rectangular looms, 360 00:24:08.680 --> 00:24:12.720 producing large, square, angular material that did not conform to 361 00:24:12.759 --> 00:24:15.880 the contours of the body. But in the fourteenth century, 362 00:24:15.920 --> 00:24:19.279 wealthy men's clothing started to be made from smaller, separate 363 00:24:19.319 --> 00:24:23.200 pieces of fabric, which allowed greater construction and more variety 364 00:24:23.279 --> 00:24:28.279 in design. Designers began to shift from draping fabric to cutting, sewing, 365 00:24:28.359 --> 00:24:31.640 and tailoring it. The idea of clothing, which for the 366 00:24:31.680 --> 00:24:35.440 first time was truly custom made to fit an individual's body. 367 00:24:35.759 --> 00:24:38.519 Implies a new relationship between the clothing and the wearer, 368 00:24:38.880 --> 00:24:42.200 said Laurel A. Wilson, a researcher in the history of 369 00:24:42.200 --> 00:24:46.039 fashion at the Center for Medieval Studies at Fordham University. 370 00:24:46.519 --> 00:24:50.160 Wilson points to the thirteen thirties as the pivotal decade 371 00:24:50.200 --> 00:24:53.960 of change. That's when various social and economic factors helped 372 00:24:54.279 --> 00:24:59.200 redefine fashion. An emerging merchant class was seeking social recognition, 373 00:24:59.359 --> 00:25:05.000 while above them aristocrats were evolving gradations of status, both 374 00:25:05.079 --> 00:25:08.599 to distinguish themselves from other aristocrats and from the ever 375 00:25:08.640 --> 00:25:12.920 wealthier merchant class beneath them. These status wars were expressed 376 00:25:12.960 --> 00:25:16.480 through their clothes. Tailors were in demand, and soon they 377 00:25:16.519 --> 00:25:19.279 grew too expensive for people in the lower social orders. 378 00:25:20.480 --> 00:25:24.079 This sea change in fashion quickly conquered Western Europe, likely 379 00:25:24.119 --> 00:25:27.960 because of a sheared court culture. Expanding choice gave rise 380 00:25:28.000 --> 00:25:32.440 to markets and industries in specialized fabrics, ornaments, and garments. 381 00:25:32.880 --> 00:25:37.440 Along with Europe's well established woolen's industry, Exotic fabrics like silk, 382 00:25:37.559 --> 00:25:41.960 damask and velvet, previously imported, were now manufactured in Italy 383 00:25:42.359 --> 00:25:47.119 and Northern Belgium, with access to greater choice and growing commercialization, 384 00:25:47.599 --> 00:25:51.640 came another mainstay of modern fashion, rapid change. During the 385 00:25:51.640 --> 00:25:56.319 fourteenth century, men's fashion change as rapidly as decade by decade, 386 00:25:56.519 --> 00:26:00.880 when before it was over the course of century. Wilson 387 00:26:01.160 --> 00:26:04.200 explained that system is still with us, only to a 388 00:26:04.240 --> 00:26:08.880 greater extreme. Constance's artorial change was not to everyone's liking, 389 00:26:09.279 --> 00:26:13.000 especially those with more conservative outlooks. In the thirteen forties, 390 00:26:13.039 --> 00:26:17.359 the anonymous English author of the Westminster Chronicle took offense 391 00:26:17.440 --> 00:26:21.880 at changing various deformities of clothing yearly and abandoning the 392 00:26:21.920 --> 00:26:26.759 ancient honesty of long loose garments. The deformities was a 393 00:26:26.920 --> 00:26:32.599 reference to the variety of tailoring short, tight, dagged, cut, 394 00:26:32.720 --> 00:26:37.079 laced and tied with unbuttoned everywhere, with sleeves and tippets 395 00:26:37.119 --> 00:26:40.799 of surcoats and hoods too long in their clothes and shoes. 396 00:26:41.079 --> 00:26:45.599 Such work, he concluded, belonged more to torturers and demons 397 00:26:45.759 --> 00:26:49.640 than men. In the thirteen forties, the French chronicler Jean 398 00:26:49.720 --> 00:26:52.920 de Vinet added his voice to a chorus of indignation 399 00:26:53.079 --> 00:26:56.279 at the shortness and tightness of men's clothing, noting that 400 00:26:56.359 --> 00:26:59.640 men cannot bend or kneel without showing their underwear and 401 00:26:59.720 --> 00:27:04.000