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<v Speaker 1>Welcome. This is Marcia for Radio I, and today I

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<v Speaker 1>will be reading National Geographic magazine dated August twenty twenty five,

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<v Speaker 1>which is donated by the publisher as a reminder. RADIOI

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<v Speaker 1>is a reading service intended for people who are blind

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<v Speaker 1>or have other disabilities that make it difficult to read

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<v Speaker 1>printed material. Please join me now for the first article

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<v Speaker 1>entitled how to Retrieve fifty five tons of Dinosaur Bones

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<v Speaker 1>from the Sahara Desert by Paul Serno. Millions of years ago,

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<v Speaker 1>what's now North Africa was a lush landscape teeming with

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<v Speaker 1>an incredible variety of life. To reveal more about the

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<v Speaker 1>mysteries of this lost age, paleontologist Paul Serino mounted perhaps

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<v Speaker 1>the boldest dinosaur hunt ever attempted. As the Saharan sun

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<v Speaker 1>rose on my wayland waylaid team one morning in September

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<v Speaker 1>twenty twenty two, it seemed to burn with particular intensity.

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<v Speaker 1>For nearly three weeks. We'd been holed up in a

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<v Speaker 1>mud walled compound in the oasis town of Agadez in

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<v Speaker 1>central Nizier, stalled because of officials insistence on assembling for

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<v Speaker 1>us a large armed escort. Now as dawn broke, we

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<v Speaker 1>were finally ready to embark. Nearly one hundred people packed

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<v Speaker 1>into fifteen vehicles, a motley caravan of SUVs, pickups, and

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<v Speaker 1>one large dump truck, all strapped with sand, ladders and

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<v Speaker 1>spare tires, heading out on an extraordinary desert dinosaur hunt,

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<v Speaker 1>without question the most ambitious of my career. Among our

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<v Speaker 1>number were tareg guides and drivers, a film crew, sixty

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<v Speaker 1>four armed guards, and my paleo dream team of twenty

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<v Speaker 1>students and freshly minted professors recruited to spend three months

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<v Speaker 1>venturing across one of the planet's least hospitable landscapes. Our

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<v Speaker 1>mission was to explore and excavate three d distinct sites

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<v Speaker 1>spread across hundreds of miles of blazing roadless desert. The

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<v Speaker 1>fossils we found we would ship to my University of

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<v Speaker 1>Chicago fossil Lab for careful cleaning and study, later returning

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<v Speaker 1>them for display in Niger to celebrate the country's stunning

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<v Speaker 1>ancient heritage. I had crisscrossed Nizier's Sahara during eleven previous

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<v Speaker 1>expeditions going back thirty two years. The last two in

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<v Speaker 1>twenty eighteen and twenty nineteen, had been for reconnaissance, and

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<v Speaker 1>I'd spotted bone rich pockets in some of the desert's

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<v Speaker 1>most remote and win sand swept corners with dinosaur skeletons

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<v Speaker 1>jutting from the desert floor, But without the team or

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<v Speaker 1>tools to collect them, I could only log the sites

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<v Speaker 1>and imagine our return trip. Then a global pandemic shut

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<v Speaker 1>down the world, and I spent two years drawing up

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<v Speaker 1>an audacious plan and fundraising with little success. That is

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<v Speaker 1>until a benefactor requesting anonymity agreed to fully fund the quest.

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<v Speaker 1>My appeal had aimed at our innate human curiosity, a

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<v Speaker 1>chance to uncover creatures from paleontologies. Last Great Frontier Nijera

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<v Speaker 1>is a dno wonderland because of two chance geologic events.

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<v Speaker 1>The first unfolded one hundred and eighty million years ago

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<v Speaker 1>during the early Jurassic, when the great land mass Gondwana

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<v Speaker 1>began to break apart, forming a massive depression in the

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<v Speaker 1>center of what is now the West African nation, then

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<v Speaker 1>a verdant region teeming with life for millions of years.

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<v Speaker 1>The depression took in sediment and the skeletons of dinosaurs

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<v Speaker 1>and other creatures. The second event happened twenty million years ago,

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<v Speaker 1>when a volcanic hotspot raised what's known as the ear

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<v Speaker 1>massif on the edge of this depression, tilting the strata

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<v Speaker 1>upward and returning to the surface the now fossilized skeletons.

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<v Speaker 1>Driving across these rock layers today, heading from Agadez into

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<v Speaker 1>the open desert is a through deep time. Our timeline

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<v Speaker 1>was ambitious even before the delay in Agadez, and the

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<v Speaker 1>expedition's success would hinge on benefiting from lessons I'd learned

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<v Speaker 1>in the past, along with some novel technology we would

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<v Speaker 1>deploy in the field. Our perseverance would be tested many

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<v Speaker 1>if my young colleagues had never set foot in the Sahira,

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<v Speaker 1>worked under armed guard in one hundred thirty degree heat,

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<v Speaker 1>or gone a month without a shower. Those with me

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<v Speaker 1>on previous expeditions, meanwhile, had seen it all, food poisoning, malaria, sandstorms,

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<v Speaker 1>expedition ending breakdowns, gun toting bandits, government coups, and yet

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<v Speaker 1>I am always eager to go back. No one knows

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<v Speaker 1>the land and its secrets better than those who live

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<v Speaker 1>on it, and our nearest, our site, nearest to Agadez

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<v Speaker 1>was a return to a tantalizing find that a local

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<v Speaker 1>Tareg Nomad had shown us years before. He'd let my

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<v Speaker 1>team by motorbike in to the desert to a spot

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<v Speaker 1>that the Tuareg called chichikan Karan, or place of Insects

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<v Speaker 1>for the locusts that swarm after seasonal rains. It's a

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<v Speaker 1>gravel rise about ten feet high that stretches for nearly

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<v Speaker 1>a mile and a half across the acacia studded ir

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<v Speaker 1>Haser plane. Atop the little ridge, a series of large,

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<v Speaker 1>spool shaped vertebrae breached the surface. Some digging exposed more

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<v Speaker 1>of the backbone, which belonged to a fifty foot long sauropod,

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<v Speaker 1>the classification given to long necked plant eating dinosaurs. For

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<v Speaker 1>this expedition, my team fanned out over the rise and

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<v Speaker 1>quickly made a series of stunning discoveries, encountering four more

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<v Speaker 1>of these massive creatures, including one whose neck ended with

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<v Speaker 1>the most cherished of paleoprizes, a skull. All four seemingly

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<v Speaker 1>belonged to the same, yet unnamed species. We nicknamed it

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<v Speaker 1>iPod shorthand for an ir Haser Plane sauropod. The elevated

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<v Speaker 1>fossil field meanwhile became Sauropod Island from the details of

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<v Speaker 1>its skeleton. I suspected our iPod dated to the Middle Jurassic,

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<v Speaker 1>some one hundred sixty million years ago, but without an

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<v Speaker 1>ash bed to date it by this was only a guest.

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<v Speaker 1>Finding a seam of volcanic ash near a dig site

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<v Speaker 1>is every paleontologist dream since crystals with it within it

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<v Speaker 1>can contained datable radioactive isotopes. I'd had my eyes out

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<v Speaker 1>for ashbeds on previous expeditions, but like every Saherin explorer

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<v Speaker 1>before me, I'd come up dry. This time, however, I

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<v Speaker 1>brought along one of the world's great time tellers, MIT

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<v Speaker 1>research scientists and isotope whiz Yihan Rameizani. Yihan's big discovery

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<v Speaker 1>came by accident. After a rock punctured attire on one

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<v Speaker 1>of our battered land rovers not far from Sauropod Island.

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<v Speaker 1>As a few of us set about the here, he

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<v Speaker 1>scrambled up the side of a nearby cliff. Soon Jahan

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<v Speaker 1>was calling my name, and I found him poking at

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<v Speaker 1>a greenish clay, an indicator of ancient volcanism to his

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<v Speaker 1>expert eye. Would that clay contain the crystals we'd need

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<v Speaker 1>to date our fossils? Jahan smiled at me. Confidently, I'll

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<v Speaker 1>bet my career on this one, he said. Finding bones

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<v Speaker 1>at Sauropot Island was the easy part. The challenge was

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<v Speaker 1>whether we could collect all we saw in the three

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<v Speaker 1>weeks we could devote to the site. Most of my

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<v Speaker 1>team doubted it was possible. Thirty years ago it likely

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<v Speaker 1>wouldn't have been, but our tools have come a long way.

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<v Speaker 1>Some of what we bring to the Sahara today still

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<v Speaker 1>resembles the equipment and supplies from my first fory in

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<v Speaker 1>nineteen ninety three. We still use plaster, burr, lap and

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<v Speaker 1>wood to cocoon fossils in portable field jackets. Our land

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<v Speaker 1>rovers are trusty survivors of pass trucks. We still get

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<v Speaker 1>by on packets of dehydrated food, although these days adding

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<v Speaker 1>boiling water to a package labeled basagna yields something closer

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<v Speaker 1>to the raw deal. But new gear and technologies have

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<v Speaker 1>dramatically transformed both the speed of excavation and the imaging

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<v Speaker 1>of fossils as they emerge. Drill breakers powered by lithium

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<v Speaker 1>batteries have largely replaced chisels and rock hammers. Lightweight electric

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<v Speaker 1>jackhammers have replaced picks, GPS and digital imaging technology have

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<v Speaker 1>replaced hand drawn maps, while drones and photogrammetry can generate

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<v Speaker 1>three D images in minutes on scales that range from

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<v Speaker 1>sprawling dig sites to individual bones. At Sauropod Island, a

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<v Speaker 1>drone flying overhead captured the entire scene, our tracks weaving

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<v Speaker 1>between skeletons like ant trails. I wouldn't say modern equipment

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<v Speaker 1>marks makes the work easy, but it does make the

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<v Speaker 1>job safer and more efficient. Together with gold, good old

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<v Speaker 1>fashioned sweat and fifteen hour days, it helped our efforts

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<v Speaker 1>pay off. When we pulled away from Saarpot Island triumphant

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<v Speaker 1>and exhilarated, our trucks strained under a load of some

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<v Speaker 1>twenty five tons of fossils. Even more remote country awaited

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<v Speaker 1>us at a site called god Dubufara said to me,

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<v Speaker 1>in place where camel's fear to tread. It is Africa's

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<v Speaker 1>most famously fossil rich area, in the heart of the

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<v Speaker 1>Sahara's hyparidide Tenerai region, a desert within a desert. Although

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<v Speaker 1>I've never felt so much as a drop of rain.

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<v Speaker 1>In Gaudo Fauona, my team made a fossil discovery three

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<v Speaker 1>there years Ago. That's a reminder of how much wetter

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<v Speaker 1>the area once was. It wasn't a dinosaur at all,

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<v Speaker 1>but rather prehistory's largest dino, dinosaur eating Crocodilian Sarkuskus. We

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<v Speaker 1>took to calling it supercroc, a nickname that has stuck

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<v Speaker 1>in the media. We left from Agades, where we deposited

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<v Speaker 1>fossil between digs in front of us. A roadless expanse

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<v Speaker 1>of rock gave way to a majestic but daunting dunescape,

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<v Speaker 1>unfolding as far as the eye or drone could see.

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<v Speaker 1>Experienced local guides are essential in such terrain, where sinkholes

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<v Speaker 1>of unexpectedly soft sand can myer vehicles driven by even

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<v Speaker 1>veteran Saharan cans. Our large dump truck loaded with one

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<v Speaker 1>thousand liter tanks of water was prone to sinking. Digging

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<v Speaker 1>it out became a familiar routine, extending what could be

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<v Speaker 1>a single day's journey to Guadofaula, Faula into three. You

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<v Speaker 1>know you've arrived at Gaudofaula when you see the fossil

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<v Speaker 1>bones tinged red with irons, scattered in every direction among

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<v Speaker 1>low rocky ridges. We were looking for species that lived

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<v Speaker 1>alongside supercroc in the early Cretaceous, some one hundred ten

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<v Speaker 1>million years ago. Our first tacket target was Auranosaurus, a

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<v Speaker 1>thirty foot long sail backed herbival My team had encountered

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<v Speaker 1>one year's had encountered one years before, and had covered

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<v Speaker 1>it to protect it from wind erosion until we could

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<v Speaker 1>someday return. We found it again before long, a gorgeous

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<v Speaker 1>row of plank like bones, as tall as a human

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<v Speaker 1>and arranged in an array like a peacock's fantail. It

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<v Speaker 1>was the first intact bony dinosaur sale ever discovered, and

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<v Speaker 1>studying it will help solve the mystery of what biological

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<v Speaker 1>purposes These protrusions served to make up for our initial delay.

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<v Speaker 1>In Agadez, we worked deep into the night excavating Aurhonosaurus,

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<v Speaker 1>relying on generated powered lamps. Although the work was exhausting

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<v Speaker 1>around the clock, accavation has its perks. In the heart

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<v Speaker 1>of the Sahara, nighttime temperatures plummeted to half the day's

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<v Speaker 1>one hundred twenty five degree high. Insects attracted by our

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<v Speaker 1>bizarre desert light show retired before midnight. All told, we

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<v Speaker 1>would pack out two duns two tons of Rhanosaurus fossils

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<v Speaker 1>in just three days. Guaudaphoya hides its secrets under drifting,

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<v Speaker 1>shifting sand. You might walk right past a hidden skull

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<v Speaker 1>one year, only to spot it the next. On an

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<v Speaker 1>earlier visit, we had discovered a petio like stretch of

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<v Speaker 1>exposed sandstone that was packed to a jaw dropping degree

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<v Speaker 1>with the embedded bones of raptors, turtles, fish, and more,

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<v Speaker 1>what palaeontologists call a microsite. As I returned to Gaudaphoya,

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<v Speaker 1>among the foremost questions on my mind was whether the

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<v Speaker 1>microsite would be buried under deep sand, and if it wasn't,

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<v Speaker 1>how we might carve it up and collect it. I

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<v Speaker 1>held my breath as I neared the spot and saw

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<v Speaker 1>a towering dune, but miraculously, just yards away from it,

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<v Speaker 1>the microsite was exposed, and soon it was surrounded by

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<v Speaker 1>awestruck palaeontologus on their hands and knees marveling at the

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<v Speaker 1>sandstone bound menagerie. We used a rock saw with the

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<v Speaker 1>largest diamond covered blade we could find to slice down

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<v Speaker 1>about six inches into the bone patio, hoping to cut

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<v Speaker 1>it into bricks we could carry out in our usual

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<v Speaker 1>field jackets. But would the slabs separate cleanly. When the

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<v Speaker 1>first one did with little more than a tap of

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<v Speaker 1>a chisel, my team whooped. I felt like mclindlow at first,

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<v Speaker 1>then like Darwin aboard the HMS Beagle, knowing a million

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<v Speaker 1>bones of unknown species were ours for the collecting. Painstakingly

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<v Speaker 1>removing rock or sediment from around fossil treasures like these

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<v Speaker 1>might require years of lab time, But there at Glaudifhoya,

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<v Speaker 1>one of my team members submerged a block from the

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<v Speaker 1>microsite in water, and we discovered, to our amazement that

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<v Speaker 1>the sandstone matrix softened instantly, meaning this trove could be

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<v Speaker 1>freed with minimal effort. Back at the fossil lab, the

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<v Speaker 1>thrill of that realization helped power through six long days

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<v Speaker 1>transforming the bone patio into ten tons of jacketed slabs.

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<v Speaker 1>We headed to our final site with only two weeks

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<v Speaker 1>left in the field, feeling the pressure. Three years before,

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<v Speaker 1>we'd come to this place, some one hundred and twenty

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<v Speaker 1>miles east of Agadez, after investigating a passage i'd read

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<v Speaker 1>in a nineteen fifties monograph. Its author, French geologist Hugh Forrey,

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<v Speaker 1>described an isolated site where he had found saber shaped

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<v Speaker 1>teeth like those of the t rex esque Egyptian predator

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<v Speaker 1>Carco Dandosaurus. With some effort, we had found this site,

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<v Speaker 1>and along with it plenty more teeth, confirming Forre's understanding

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<v Speaker 1>of the beds as Late Cretaceous, some ninety five million

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<v Speaker 1>years old. We might have left with nothing more than

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<v Speaker 1>teeth if not for a serendipitous visitor to our camp.

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<v Speaker 1>He wore a black trench coat, shesh head wrap, and

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<v Speaker 1>some glasses, with a Tauregg's sword slung over his shoulder.

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<v Speaker 1>His name was Abdul Nassar, and he offered to take

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<v Speaker 1>us to a bigger bone field. As he led us

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<v Speaker 1>deep into one of the Sahara's great ergs or land seas,

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<v Speaker 1>over and between dunes, our land rover struggled to keep

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<v Speaker 1>pace with his Honda motorbike. He was feeling like a

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<v Speaker 1>fool's errand until Abdul pulled up alongside a thigh bone.

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<v Speaker 1>As long as I am tall, it clearly belonged to

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<v Speaker 1>a skeleton. In every direction there was more bone. With

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<v Speaker 1>little daylight and fuel, we were able only to note

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<v Speaker 1>the GPS coordinates of the place called Jangwaibi and grab

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<v Speaker 1>a few jaw pieces we assumed were from Carcarodontosaurus. But

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<v Speaker 1>assembling the jaw back in Chicago, I realized the teeth

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<v Speaker 1>and tooth sockets were all wrong. They belonged instead to

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<v Speaker 1>the sail backed predator Spinosaurus, who was the first record

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<v Speaker 1>of one of these water loving beasts found so far inland,

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<v Speaker 1>and I suspected it was a news species. Our return

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<v Speaker 1>trip to janguwebe took us back across the airG We

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<v Speaker 1>have scutched among rocky areas, each smaller than the last

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<v Speaker 1>as we traveled deeper into it. We set up camp

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<v Speaker 1>near where we found the jaw pieces, and we've been

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<v Speaker 1>there no more than an hour. My colleague Don Vidal,

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<v Speaker 1>a seasoned paleontologist from Spain, came running toward me, eyes gleaming.

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<v Speaker 1>It's here, he said the skull I found. Much of

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<v Speaker 1>my team gathered around a toothy snout jutting up from

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<v Speaker 1>the rock. These were the first Spinosaurus skull bones found

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<v Speaker 1>in place in more than a century. My colleagues stood

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00:16:37.000 --> 00:16:40.960
<v Speaker 1>mesmerized as the significance of the find sank in. Some

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<v Speaker 1>even wept. A few hours later, Dan found me again.

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<v Speaker 1>This time he held an unfamiliar boomerang shaped bone. It

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<v Speaker 1>was a head crest, we realized, but a strange one,

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<v Speaker 1>projecting upward to agree degree never seen in predatory dinosaurs,

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<v Speaker 1>and where the crest of an Egyptian spinosaurus is a ridge,

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<v Speaker 1>this one was shaped like a scimitar. While the team

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00:17:04.160 --> 00:17:10.359
<v Speaker 1>excavated the skull, dan our Photogramma Gramma tree expert documented

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<v Speaker 1>the emerging skeleton with digital photos, a much faster process

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<v Speaker 1>than in my early career, when we'd have photographed a

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<v Speaker 1>few Kissa fossils and I'd have stood over others doing

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00:17:22.079 --> 00:17:25.720
<v Speaker 1>shaded drawings. That evening on a laptop in the tent,

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00:17:25.799 --> 00:17:28.680
<v Speaker 1>he presented us with a three D image made from

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00:17:28.680 --> 00:17:31.960
<v Speaker 1>the stitch together photos of the skull of our new

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00:17:32.079 --> 00:17:36.400
<v Speaker 1>tall crested spinosaurus. The team was awestruck. It wasn't our

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<v Speaker 1>last spectacular find at Janguebi. A few days later, an

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<v Speaker 1>eleven year old boy from a Taurang family camped nearby

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<v Speaker 1>offered to show us fossils he'd seen while wandering with

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<v Speaker 1>his goats, navigating complex terrain he knew by heart. He

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<v Speaker 1>led us to sight after sight, some with little more

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<v Speaker 1>than a lonely bone fragment at the last sight, however,

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<v Speaker 1>was an impressive set of bones and teeth. The latter's

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<v Speaker 1>saber like shape left no doubt we had found Africa's

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<v Speaker 1>first partial skeleton of a cocorad dondas suide. After cleaning

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<v Speaker 1>an assembly, it will provide the first detailed look at

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<v Speaker 1>Africa's line of these colossal predators. We returned to Agadez haggard,

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<v Speaker 1>dirty and triumphant, with fossils, filling two forty foot containers

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<v Speaker 1>on a truck scale. The results of our efforts weighed

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<v Speaker 1>in at fifty five tons, twice what many of us

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<v Speaker 1>had estimated. I meanwhile, was thirty two pounds later. I

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<v Speaker 1>was also elated leaving Nigier for Chicago and knowing that

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<v Speaker 1>in a matter of months our fossils would soon make

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<v Speaker 1>the same trip. Then one last hurdle arose suddenly and unexpectedly.

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<v Speaker 1>A few months after our return, a military coup toppled

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<v Speaker 1>the elected government of Nijier, putting this shipment of the

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<v Speaker 1>fossils on hold for nearly two years. The fossils from

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<v Speaker 1>our expedition remained in Limbo. Then this spring I traveled

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<v Speaker 1>to Niame, Nizier's capital, where I signed an agreement that

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<v Speaker 1>will at last bring the fossils to Chicago. It also

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00:19:12.119 --> 00:19:16.880
<v Speaker 1>provides for their staged repatriation, and it establishes a blueprint

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<v Speaker 1>to develop two new Nigerian museums to house them, along

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<v Speaker 1>with an institute to train the country's next generation of musiologists, archaeologists,

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<v Speaker 1>and palaeontologists. These initiatives will be overseen by Nizier Heritage,

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<v Speaker 1>a foundation I established in twenty sixteen. I first came

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<v Speaker 1>to Nigier for its fossils, for high adventure, and for

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<v Speaker 1>the stark beauty of its landscape and sunsets. But I've

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<v Speaker 1>returned again and again because of my deeper motivations as

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<v Speaker 1>a paleontologist, because I know that the significance of my

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<v Speaker 1>work isn't ultimately measured in new species, but by the

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<v Speaker 1>impact those discoveries can have on the future of a nation.

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<v Speaker 1>On the eve of our expedition, I had goaded my

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<v Speaker 1>young team members by telling them this would be their

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<v Speaker 1>chance to write a new chapter in Earth's history, something

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<v Speaker 1>they'd have few opportunities to do in a lifetime. We

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00:20:10.920 --> 00:20:14.079
<v Speaker 1>now have troves of images, video and data from the field,

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00:20:14.400 --> 00:20:17.960
<v Speaker 1>and we have presented findings to conferences and journals, including

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<v Speaker 1>a paper on the remarkable tall crusted Spinosaurus species. Soon

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00:20:23.079 --> 00:20:25.759
<v Speaker 1>we will have the bones for close study, along with

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00:20:25.880 --> 00:20:29.319
<v Speaker 1>geologic samples to reveal their age. Next will come an

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00:20:29.319 --> 00:20:35.599
<v Speaker 1>outpouring of discoveries related to the Carcarondontosaurus, a dozen nusauropods,

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00:20:35.759 --> 00:20:40.160
<v Speaker 1>a digging raptor, an armorless croc, a giant superfish, and

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00:20:40.279 --> 00:20:43.640
<v Speaker 1>other new species. We are poised to write that chapter

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00:20:44.119 --> 00:20:48.200
<v Speaker 1>introducing others to Africa's lost dinosaur worlds, daring them to

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00:20:48.279 --> 00:20:52.960
<v Speaker 1>imagine what still lies beneath the surface. Next, at work

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<v Speaker 1>with the Gorilla Ballowness of South Korea by Paul Salapek,

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00:20:57.920 --> 00:21:01.279
<v Speaker 1>inside a covert operation to launch a ormous balloons carrying

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<v Speaker 1>pantyhose and nature films at North Korea. Do you know

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00:21:06.000 --> 00:21:08.279
<v Speaker 1>how to run fast? Asked a man I'll call Park.

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<v Speaker 1>He was driving us carefully through dusk, well below the

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00:21:11.799 --> 00:21:16.160
<v Speaker 1>speed limit from Soul toward the infamously militarized zone, the

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00:21:16.240 --> 00:21:20.240
<v Speaker 1>heavily mined frontier between South and North Korea. It was

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<v Speaker 1>a warm summer evening, Park, a North Korean defector who

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<v Speaker 1>allowed me to tag along provided he could use an

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00:21:26.880 --> 00:21:30.039
<v Speaker 1>assume name was keeping a wary eye on his rear

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00:21:30.119 --> 00:21:35.519
<v Speaker 1>real mirror for a police tail. The only vehicle shadowing us, thankful, Thankfully,

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<v Speaker 1>was a nondescript pickup truck steered by one of Park's helpers.

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<v Speaker 1>It was lugging under a blue tarp enough steel canisters

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<v Speaker 1>of hydrogen to blow up a large house. Park's two

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00:21:47.240 --> 00:21:50.960
<v Speaker 1>vehicle convoy wasn't bound for some mission of terror, instead

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00:21:51.079 --> 00:21:55.279
<v Speaker 1>trundling past seven eleven convenience stores, rural churches topped with

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<v Speaker 1>red neon crosses, and pig farms. He and his band

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<v Speaker 1>of four activists we're on a bizarre mission of political resistance,

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<v Speaker 1>one that few, if any outside journalists had witnessed before.

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<v Speaker 1>The clandestine lot clandestine lofting of huge hand made balloons

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<v Speaker 1>into the night skies above North Korea. Over the past

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<v Speaker 1>twelve years, I've hiked thousands of miles across the world

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<v Speaker 1>for a national geographic story telling project called the Out

335
00:22:23.079 --> 00:22:26.680
<v Speaker 1>of Eden Walk. Typically, I spend my days peering down

336
00:22:26.720 --> 00:22:29.599
<v Speaker 1>at my plotting feet to night, my attention would be

337
00:22:29.640 --> 00:22:33.480
<v Speaker 1>focussed up on a group of improvised air strips airships

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00:22:33.960 --> 00:22:38.400
<v Speaker 1>floating north unfavorable summer winds carrying a payload of items

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00:22:38.640 --> 00:22:41.599
<v Speaker 1>that are either subversive or in short supply in the

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00:22:41.680 --> 00:22:46.200
<v Speaker 1>most shuddered society on Earth. The South Korean police might

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<v Speaker 1>pull us over. Park warned. If that happened, he advised

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<v Speaker 1>with a wink, I should bolt into the scrub. I've

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<v Speaker 1>been fined before, but I don't care, he said. People

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<v Speaker 1>in the North don't even know what human rights are.

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<v Speaker 1>Our balloons help wake them up. Hours later, parked in

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<v Speaker 1>a weedy field near the d MZ, I watched as

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00:23:04.440 --> 00:23:09.039
<v Speaker 1>the guerrilla aeronauts bustled about the dark in head lamps,

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00:23:09.119 --> 00:23:13.599
<v Speaker 1>cranking open the hydrogen cylinders to inflate their balloons. Gas

349
00:23:13.680 --> 00:23:17.000
<v Speaker 1>jetted from the tank valves with a startlingly loud hiss.

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<v Speaker 1>The airships, loaded with items like biblical tracks, U S

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00:23:20.799 --> 00:23:25.799
<v Speaker 1>dollar bills, pro democracy leaflets, rice, and women's hygiene products,

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<v Speaker 1>did not resemble the colorful vessels at hot air balloon festivals. Rather,

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00:23:30.680 --> 00:23:36.599
<v Speaker 1>there they were elongated, clear plastic mammoths, enlarging two heights

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<v Speaker 1>of four or five stories tall. Soon, twenty five balloons

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00:23:40.759 --> 00:23:44.920
<v Speaker 1>jutted into the moonlit sky like monumental exclamation points that

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<v Speaker 1>were surely visible for a mile. Perhaps I remember the

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<v Speaker 1>media reports from South Korea. Last summer, thousands of large

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<v Speaker 1>balloons hauling plastic sacks bulging with cigarette butts, rotting clothes, worms,

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00:23:58.599 --> 00:24:02.119
<v Speaker 1>and even feces floated from North Korea into the air

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00:24:02.160 --> 00:24:07.000
<v Speaker 1>space of democratic South Korea. This barrage of garbage triggered

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00:24:07.079 --> 00:24:11.640
<v Speaker 1>health alert's fires and aborted flights at airports. One bag

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00:24:11.680 --> 00:24:15.759
<v Speaker 1>of gunk landed near the South Korean President's office in Seoul.

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<v Speaker 1>The press often covered this armada of inflatables with a smirk,

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<v Speaker 1>as a side show to an ongoing rivalry between sister

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<v Speaker 1>nations that remained bitter enemies seventy two years after Korea's

366
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<v Speaker 1>Civil war was paused by a cease fire. Yet the

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<v Speaker 1>public rarely heard the other half of the story, the

368
00:24:34.279 --> 00:24:39.160
<v Speaker 1>North Korean rubbish attacks or payback for South Korea propaganda

369
00:24:39.200 --> 00:24:43.079
<v Speaker 1>balloons like parks. The geopolitics of this tit for tat

370
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<v Speaker 1>aerial dispute, however, wasn't nearly as illuminating to me as

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<v Speaker 1>the earnest motivations of the South Korean activists, many of

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<v Speaker 1>whom are in fact North Korean defectors. The teams of

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<v Speaker 1>balloonists appeared driven by a marooned sword of longing for

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00:24:59.119 --> 00:25:05.079
<v Speaker 1>all they've left irrevocably behind, abandoned loved ones, landscapes of memory, youth.

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<v Speaker 1>When it comes to the finality of exile, North Koreans

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<v Speaker 1>rank in a bleique class of their own. Among some

377
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<v Speaker 1>thirty four thousand defectors in South Korea, barely a few

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00:25:15.680 --> 00:25:19.119
<v Speaker 1>dozen are known to have voluntarily returned to the brutal

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<v Speaker 1>clutches of their police state. In this way, the strange

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00:25:23.559 --> 00:25:27.119
<v Speaker 1>balloon War resembles texts exchanged between a couple in a

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00:25:27.200 --> 00:25:31.400
<v Speaker 1>toxic relationship, with one partner appealing for connection while the

382
00:25:31.440 --> 00:25:35.960
<v Speaker 1>other replies with trash talk. The exchanges carry added poignancy,

383
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<v Speaker 1>since reunification of the two countries seems more implausible than

384
00:25:41.359 --> 00:25:45.000
<v Speaker 1>ever to day, fewer and fewer young South Koreans support it,

385
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<v Speaker 1>while North Korea has pivoted decisively away. My family is

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<v Speaker 1>very lucky, very grateful to be free, said Park, twenty eight,

387
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<v Speaker 1>who grew up in North Korea, listening to Western radio broadcasts,

388
00:25:57.119 --> 00:26:00.319
<v Speaker 1>muffled under a blanket in his bed, a thought, I'm

389
00:26:00.319 --> 00:26:04.039
<v Speaker 1>punishable by prison. We are not just living life for

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00:26:04.079 --> 00:26:06.599
<v Speaker 1>ourselves now, but for the people back in North Korea.

391
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<v Speaker 1>Energetic and wyree Park recounted in confidence his perilous escape

392
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<v Speaker 1>from North Korea with four relatives more than a decade ago.

393
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<v Speaker 1>Now a youth organizer for an evangelical church outside of Seoul,

394
00:26:20.599 --> 00:26:25.240
<v Speaker 1>he explained how fellow Christians in North Korea risked execution

395
00:26:25.359 --> 00:26:28.559
<v Speaker 1>for practicing their faith under the cult like rule of

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<v Speaker 1>Supreme leader Kim Jong un. He also bemoaned the sinister

397
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<v Speaker 1>reach of North Korea's intelligence agencies, which had poisoned the

398
00:26:36.799 --> 00:26:41.240
<v Speaker 1>dictator's own brother in exile in Malaysia. Arriving as a

399
00:26:41.279 --> 00:26:45.720
<v Speaker 1>teenager in Go Go, South Korea from repressive North Korea,

400
00:26:46.160 --> 00:26:49.240
<v Speaker 1>Park recalled had felt like being a person from the

401
00:26:49.319 --> 00:26:54.519
<v Speaker 1>nineteen seventies transported to modern day New York. North Koreans

402
00:26:54.559 --> 00:26:59.000
<v Speaker 1>find it very hard here side Kim Sung's chul. Reflecting

403
00:26:59.039 --> 00:27:03.079
<v Speaker 1>on the balloonist expians, some South Koreans see North Koreans

404
00:27:03.079 --> 00:27:07.319
<v Speaker 1>as less intelligent, primitive. An older generation defector, Kim arrived

405
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<v Speaker 1>in South Korea nineteen ninety three after walking away from

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<v Speaker 1>a work camp in Siberia. He now operates a pro

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<v Speaker 1>democracy radio station in Seoul. Even after three decades in

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<v Speaker 1>the country, Kim noted dryly he sometimes feels like an outsider.

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<v Speaker 1>His South Korean wife has been reproached by her friends.

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<v Speaker 1>Why are you still living with the North Korean? Though

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<v Speaker 1>sailing private balloons into the North was criminalized in twenty twenty,

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<v Speaker 1>the prohibition was struck down by South Korea's Constitutional Court

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<v Speaker 1>two years ago on free speech grounds. Still, the night

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<v Speaker 1>launches remain a fraught, calling Soul doesn't appreciate the diplomatic

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<v Speaker 1>aggravation the police issue hefty safety finds Lee Minbak, a

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<v Speaker 1>Craigie defector in his sixties, had his balloon truck torched.

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<v Speaker 1>This concludes readings from National Geographic Magazine for today. Your

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<v Speaker 1>reader has it's been Marcia. Thank you for listening, Keep

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<v Speaker 1>on listening and have a great day.
