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Speaker 1: I'm Daniel Vaughan, barbecue editor at Texas Monthly, and this

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is Fire and Smoke, the Texas Monthly Barbecue podcast, brought

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to you by Yetti.

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Speaker 2: Now I call it Arkansas gravy. I don't know what

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the true name him. But it's mostly water and it's

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got a little bit of sugar in it, a little

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bit of salt in it, just a little bit of wood.

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Stuff like that, and maybe one canon to made of sauce.

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Speaker 1: And that's the voice of Rolling Lindsey, the founder of

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the Bodaceous Barbecue chain, describing a mop sauce he once

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used to season his barbecue. I included the clip from

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our twenty fifteen interview mainly so we could all hear

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him say Arkansas gravy one more time and enjoy how

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he'd shortened wish to shear sauce to just whoop. Rolling

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passed away in September, just shy of his eightieth birthday.

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He leaves in East Texas barbecue legacy that spans across

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twenty different Bodaceous Barbecue locations. Well, I guess they're not

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all in East Texas. There's a Bodacious all the way

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out in San Angelo. But The original that he opened

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in nineteen sixty eight still stands on Maverley Avenue in Longview.

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The full name back then was Little Rowland's Bodacious Barbecue,

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but most folks now call it the Maberley Store or

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simply the original.

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Speaker 3: To me, it's home. I love the other stores, and

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I love this store, but I.

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Speaker 4: Don't feel at home, and I'm like I do at

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Moberley because I've done most of my work in there,

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and it's the one that's paved the way for all

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these stores and all these people.

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Speaker 3: It literally is the flagship.

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Speaker 1: That is Roland. Lindsay's son in law, Jordan Jackson. We

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chatted at the recently reopened Gladewater location of Bodasias, about

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fifteen miles west of Longview. Jackson quit his job at

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Stanley's Famous Pit Barbecue and Tyler and he helped reopen

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the original Bodeishas after Roland was forced to shutter it

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for a time.

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Speaker 3: In twenty thirteen.

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Speaker 4: Roland discovered that he had the stage four lymphoma cancer

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and he had to take treatments and we had to

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close it for I think it was fifteen months, and

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during that I was at my wits ends with Stanley's.

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Speaker 3: In February, I drove straight to the warehouse.

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Speaker 4: And asked my mother in law if I could reopen Moveley,

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and she said, let me think about it.

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Speaker 1: He had to wait until the time was right for

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the whole family, but Jackson visited the empty store quite often.

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Speaker 3: It was almost like a time capsule. It was in

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perfect condition.

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Speaker 4: I went over there and started putting everything together that

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I wanted and stuff and got the pits that I wanted,

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and we reopened in June of two thousand and fifteen.

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Roland and I opened it together. He would help me cook.

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Speaker 3: That was some of my favorite times.

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Speaker 4: And when we first opened, I bought a bunch of

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meat and had it in the cooler, and Rolling would

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come in and say, so, after this week's over with,

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we're just going to take all that raw meat down

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to the mission because you're not going to sell all that.

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And I said, look here, old man, fix and sell

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all this food. I'm going to shut your ass up.

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And that week he went over there to that cooler

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and looked down and there was no raw meat in it,

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and he goes all shut up. Now he got excited

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about business. He loved watching businesses grow and take off,

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and it made him feel really special because he's got

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to see Moberley grow again and get back to where

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it used to be. When he had it back in

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the sixties and seventies, it was busy like it is now.

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Speaker 1: Just two years after reopening, we named it number four

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in our top fifty list of the state's best barbecue.

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I fell in love with the juicy forty four Farms brisket,

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those sweet baby back ribs, and the many varieties of

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homemade sausage they'd produce. Jackson may have helped bolster the

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statewide reputation of bodaceous barbecue, but he says he learned

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most of what he knows about barbecue from Roland lindsay.

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Speaker 4: When I went to culinary school, I was working with Roland.

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He had just moved back from St. Angelo, and I

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got to learn with him, and he wanted me to cook,

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and he wanted to watch me cook. And he told

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me that was gonna be the one cooking all day.

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And I said, well, what do I do? And he said,

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see that door on that pit. When you want it

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to get hotter, open it, when you want it to

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get cooler, close it that's it.

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Speaker 3: That's it.

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Speaker 4: He wouldn't tell me anything else. I think it was

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the best learning tool I've ever had. He taught me,

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would control, he taught me had a finesse, meat and everything.

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Speaker 3: It was.

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Speaker 4: There was no better person to learn from about Finas

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than him and who.

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Speaker 3: Is rolland is my hero.

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Speaker 4: He stepped up and when my dad passed away and

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he became my father, and.

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Speaker 3: He was not only was.

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Speaker 4: He great at barbecue, but he's a great role model

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with how how you should live your life and how

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you should treat people.

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Speaker 3: And that's who he is to me. He's more than

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just barbecue.

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Speaker 1: Jackson said he can still hear Roland's advice while working

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the pits late at night, especially when the briskets are twinkling,

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twinkling briskets. That's right. I've never heard such a thing

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myself and had to inquire.

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Speaker 4: Roland actually pointed it out to me one day. He's like, damn,

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briskets are twinkling. You need to cool your pit down

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a little bit. And I realized once they did. When

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they start bubbling, they get too hot.

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Speaker 3: They shouldn't. The fat shouldn't bubble, and if the fat

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starts twinkling.

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Speaker 4: I'll drop the temperature until this twinkling goes down on

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the briskets, and then that will be my guaranteed spot

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where you'll never ruin a brisket.

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Speaker 1: Now he's watching the briskets twinkle inside the pit room

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at the Gladewater location. Mel Garcia ran it until his

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retirement just a couple of months ago.

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Speaker 4: He had been working for Bodasias for about thirty five

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years and he's almost sixty five. So they just decided

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to retire, and he said, us having a vacant store,

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I told Nancy I would come over here and get

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it back and going.

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Speaker 3: And I've been calling it Marverley number two.

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Speaker 1: So what's happening back at Marverley Number one? You know

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the number four barbecue joint in Texas that's now under

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the steady watch of pittmaster Brian Bingham.

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Speaker 3: Brian really came in his own.

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Speaker 4: I mean, I couldn't be any more proud of how

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great of a job he's doing. I don't ever have

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to think about anything. And he's doing the name proud too,

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being over there. He's creative, he's a freaking fantastic cook.

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Speaker 3: You guys have a little friendly rivalry, friendly rivalry. Yeah,

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I told him that.

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Speaker 4: Remember when I told you, I said, is it going

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to be weird that the best Bodacious is in Gladewater, Texas.

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Speaker 1: After Roland's passing, Jackson's role at Bodacia's has gone from

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living up to the expectations of a barbecue legend to

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now carrying on a barbecue legacy. He has become the

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barbecue face of Bodacia's, and I asked him what that

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responsibility means. To him, it.

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Speaker 4: Means we've got to do even more to carry on

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his legacy. We've got to step up extra hard, and

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all of us had to pull together, and we need

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to do it like he would want it to be done,

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clean and good quality meat, and making sure every customer

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gets the best bot they possibly can.

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Speaker 1: Jackson's duties in the business now span the entire brand

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rather than just a single store. That's one of the

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reasons he felt it was important to step up and

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reopen the Gladewater location.

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Speaker 4: And never planned on being in Gladewater, But sometimes it's

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just the card you're dealt. It's exciting as long as

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the hours are and stuff. It's still fun to plan

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business and watch business grow I love that aspect of it,

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kind of the research and development with this place. They

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already had a clientele and it wouldn't close for very long.

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But I think we're getting a renewed trust with the

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clientele over here.

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Speaker 3: People are very excited and it's showing they're very vocal about.

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Speaker 1: It and would rolland have been excited to hear this

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news as well.

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Speaker 4: Come my gosh, you'd have been here every day. He

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just lived right down the street. That's the one thing

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that we wish that he would have been here with us.

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Speaker 3: But he's I think he's looking over us, helping us

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with this one. I feel like he is. He talks

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to us.

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Speaker 1: If you want to stop into the Gladewater store, try

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the Melman Sandwich, which was developed and named after the

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former owner, Mel Garcia. It's a sandwich generously stuffed with

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brisket and sausage all chopped up together. The Mailman is

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an East Texas delicacy, but you'll have to provide your

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own Kansas gravy. Texas barbecue is built from the ground up,

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from the wood to the smoke to the meat. You

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have to have the right tools to create a masterpiece

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on put your paper YETI coolers have you covered. Built

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to be indestructible, keep ice for days, and keep a

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brisket hot for hours. YETI is built for Texas barbecue.

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You've been listening to Fire and Smoke Texas Monthly's barbecue podcast.

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I'm Daniel Vaughan, and I'll see you out there on

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the barbecue trail.