WEBVTT 1 00:00:00.200 --> 00:00:03.439 Imagine the place where you can escape for a day, 2 00:00:04.280 --> 00:00:08.800 get immersed in a world of rooms, inspiration and expertise 3 00:00:09.359 --> 00:00:14.480 where you can lay the luxury accommodation. Thank Kids cam 4 00:00:14.560 --> 00:00:20.320 fees from ninety five sets. Tickets are free to everyone 5 00:00:20.559 --> 00:00:25.559 and include all the attractions you've just imagined a day 6 00:00:25.719 --> 00:00:29.719 out at the Kia, the Kia the wonderful every day. 7 00:00:30.199 --> 00:00:33.000 Do you know what real power is? It's knowing you're 8 00:00:33.039 --> 00:00:35.759 on the same rate for energy all day, every day 9 00:00:35.759 --> 00:00:38.679 with a smart all Day plan from board Gosh Energy, 10 00:00:38.880 --> 00:00:41.039 save up to eight hundred and eighty euro on dual 11 00:00:41.159 --> 00:00:43.560 fuel plus get a two hundred and thirty five You're 12 00:00:43.600 --> 00:00:46.960 O welcome bonus switch today at Boardgosh Energy dot i 13 00:00:47.119 --> 00:00:50.560 E Board Gosh Energy Know your Power. 14 00:00:50.520 --> 00:00:52.759 Estimation ANNELI bill twenty six hundred and twenty nine your 15 00:00:52.880 --> 00:00:55.079 new customers. Only thirs percent is scant of smart all 16 00:00:55.119 --> 00:00:57.960 day electricity uniates and twenty nine percent of gas See 17 00:00:57.960 --> 00:00:59.880 pocash Energy dot E for fourteesncies. 18 00:01:00.600 --> 00:01:03.799 Hey, Okay, just a quick note up top that this 19 00:01:03.880 --> 00:01:06.640 episode gets like a little like what do you like 20 00:01:06.680 --> 00:01:11.159 a little mystical. We don't not talk about the power 21 00:01:11.280 --> 00:01:14.079 of crystals in this I wanted to know as a 22 00:01:14.120 --> 00:01:18.760 genmologist what this ologist's belief was in the mystical nature 23 00:01:19.000 --> 00:01:22.000 of rocks, if she believed in it, so I hear 24 00:01:22.040 --> 00:01:25.239 her out. I also discuss the neuroscience of the placebo 25 00:01:25.280 --> 00:01:29.560 effect and how our thoughts can change our behaviors. It's 26 00:01:29.560 --> 00:01:32.359 based in neuroscience. Try not to at me about it, 27 00:01:32.400 --> 00:01:37.040 because like, I get it. Okay, cool Episode four, Ologies, 28 00:01:37.439 --> 00:01:38.200 Common and Hot. 29 00:01:38.680 --> 00:01:38.799 Right. 30 00:01:38.879 --> 00:01:42.079 First off, thanks to everyone who's been listening and leaving 31 00:01:42.120 --> 00:01:46.480 reviews on iTunes and rating you're subscribing. The more you 32 00:01:46.560 --> 00:01:48.640 do that, the higher this thing gets in the charts, 33 00:01:48.799 --> 00:01:50.519 and then the people see it, and the more people 34 00:01:50.560 --> 00:01:53.959 share dumb science jokes. I guess, the better I don't know. 35 00:01:54.359 --> 00:01:58.280 And also thank you to everyone who's supporting on Patreon. 36 00:01:58.640 --> 00:02:01.799 I see you and I love you. And for anyone 37 00:02:01.799 --> 00:02:04.719 who had a hankering for merch and who's been to 38 00:02:05.280 --> 00:02:11.319 ologiesmerch dot com, cool shirt or mug or tote. Okay, gems, 39 00:02:11.479 --> 00:02:15.240 this episode about gems. It's truly outrageous. Well, it's pretty good. 40 00:02:15.439 --> 00:02:18.520 We don't talk about crotches very much, but it is 41 00:02:18.520 --> 00:02:21.800 a pretty good episode. So let's start with the etymology 42 00:02:21.840 --> 00:02:25.560 of gemology. Comes from ology, the study of in gems, 43 00:02:25.680 --> 00:02:30.240 meaning gems, but gems comes from an old, dusty Latin 44 00:02:30.280 --> 00:02:34.120 word for gems, which comes from the word for bud, 45 00:02:34.240 --> 00:02:36.879 like a cute little rose, only it's dug from the 46 00:02:36.879 --> 00:02:39.680 ground and it's worth more than your house. Now I 47 00:02:39.719 --> 00:02:42.080 knew I wanted to cover this topic for months, and 48 00:02:42.199 --> 00:02:46.000 so I started hunting down on Facebook for a gemologist, 49 00:02:46.120 --> 00:02:49.000 and I got in touch with today's guest, whose number 50 00:02:49.120 --> 00:02:52.840 I saved in my phone with the crystal ball emoji, 51 00:02:53.039 --> 00:02:56.560 the diamond emoji, and the ring emoji. Now, I'm gonna 52 00:02:56.560 --> 00:02:58.960 tell you secret. If you have an emoji next to 53 00:02:59.000 --> 00:03:01.879 your name in my phone, I like you. I like 54 00:03:01.960 --> 00:03:04.960 you extra more a lot. And this person is just 55 00:03:05.159 --> 00:03:09.120 as wonderfully warm and passionate as they come. She's worthy 56 00:03:09.159 --> 00:03:12.639 of the emojis. We talked about the difference between gems 57 00:03:12.680 --> 00:03:15.400 and minerals, what it's like to be at a blast site, 58 00:03:16.039 --> 00:03:19.560 what's the actual deal with mystical healing, from a few 59 00:03:19.560 --> 00:03:24.439 different angles, hidden crystal caves, some super weird tragic history 60 00:03:24.719 --> 00:03:28.319 of the figures in gemology, And because the beauty of 61 00:03:28.439 --> 00:03:31.680 gems lies as much in their shimmer as it does 62 00:03:31.759 --> 00:03:36.199 the weird dark mystique of valuable, coveted things. I think 63 00:03:36.240 --> 00:03:38.319 part of what's so great about gemology is that there's 64 00:03:38.400 --> 00:03:42.000 creepy stuff about it. So this guest is a gemologist 65 00:03:42.439 --> 00:03:46.319 and a jewelry cataloger at Bottoms and Butterfields, which is 66 00:03:46.360 --> 00:03:52.759 an auction house, and she's just lovely. She's just goddamn lovely. 67 00:03:53.199 --> 00:04:19.879 Please enjoy Kelly stek Okay, Kelly Gemologist. Yes, this is 68 00:04:19.920 --> 00:04:23.040 so exciting. I've never met a gemalogist before. 69 00:04:23.800 --> 00:04:26.199 I think it's a very small niche of a field, 70 00:04:26.360 --> 00:04:29.439 so I haven't met many either, except now that I'm 71 00:04:29.480 --> 00:04:30.240 actually in the world. 72 00:04:30.240 --> 00:04:32.040 But beforehand, before. 73 00:04:31.839 --> 00:04:34.319 I actually met a diamond dealer, I didn't really know 74 00:04:34.360 --> 00:04:37.279 what gemology was or what the industry was like as 75 00:04:37.279 --> 00:04:40.600 far as jewelry and minerals and crystals go. So it 76 00:04:40.680 --> 00:04:43.399 was I mean, once you meet one, then a whole 77 00:04:43.399 --> 00:04:44.040 world opens. 78 00:04:44.120 --> 00:04:46.920 Does a bookshelf spin open? And then there's a world 79 00:04:46.959 --> 00:04:48.480 of diamond dealers. 80 00:04:48.279 --> 00:04:50.279 Mind it, diamond dealers, gem dealers. 81 00:04:50.319 --> 00:04:54.399 It connects to mining in like Africa and Asia and 82 00:04:54.439 --> 00:04:57.720 all these different places. And you learned that, you know, 83 00:04:57.920 --> 00:05:00.519 so many people are involved in the process of getting 84 00:05:01.000 --> 00:05:03.279 a stone from the earth, taking it from the earth 85 00:05:03.399 --> 00:05:06.120 to a piece of jewelry or to a crystal in 86 00:05:06.240 --> 00:05:09.600 a shop for sale. So it's really kind of amazing. 87 00:05:09.680 --> 00:05:11.360 All the work and all the people that go into 88 00:05:11.399 --> 00:05:12.199 the whole industry. 89 00:05:12.360 --> 00:05:13.079 It's incredible. 90 00:05:13.399 --> 00:05:14.879 How long have you been a gemologist? 91 00:05:15.360 --> 00:05:18.199 I am actually a very new gemologist. I graduated just 92 00:05:18.480 --> 00:05:21.519 a little over a year ago from the Gemological Institute 93 00:05:21.560 --> 00:05:23.800 of America. It's down in Carlsbad. It used to be 94 00:05:23.879 --> 00:05:26.240 based out of here. It's also all over the world. 95 00:05:26.319 --> 00:05:30.439 Now, all right, I knew nothing about the Gemological Institute 96 00:05:30.519 --> 00:05:33.399 of America, so I did a little digging. Oh that's 97 00:05:33.600 --> 00:05:39.879 pun I'm sorry, Honestly, I didn't mean it. So the 98 00:05:39.959 --> 00:05:43.160 Gemological Institute of America is legit. If you're going to 99 00:05:43.160 --> 00:05:45.920 become a gemologist, this is the way to do it. 100 00:05:45.920 --> 00:05:49.839 It was founded by a guy named Robert Shipley. The 101 00:05:49.879 --> 00:05:52.720 website for the Gemological Institute of America starts off with 102 00:05:52.759 --> 00:05:56.000 his bio, and the sentence sounds like it's straight out 103 00:05:56.040 --> 00:05:59.560 of a nineteen forties movie trailer. It sounds like this, 104 00:06:00.160 --> 00:06:02.560 during the depth of the depression, a middle aged man 105 00:06:02.680 --> 00:06:05.279 was a little more than ambition and charisma revolutionized the 106 00:06:05.360 --> 00:06:10.560 gem and jewelry industry. That's his bio. He sounds dope. 107 00:06:11.000 --> 00:06:13.240 So Shipley was kind of a down on his luck 108 00:06:13.439 --> 00:06:16.600 jeweler who screwed up a few times because he didn't 109 00:06:16.600 --> 00:06:19.560 know which gems were witch and so his business failed. 110 00:06:19.800 --> 00:06:21.480 And then he went through a divorce, which I think 111 00:06:21.519 --> 00:06:23.399 was a big deal back then. So he split. He 112 00:06:23.439 --> 00:06:25.639 went to Paris. He said, forget this, I'm going to 113 00:06:25.639 --> 00:06:28.879 be an artist. He got another wife, her name was Beatrice. 114 00:06:29.399 --> 00:06:32.959 And in general, Shipley was bummed that jewelers often had 115 00:06:33.000 --> 00:06:35.639 no idea what stones they were working with. It had 116 00:06:35.680 --> 00:06:38.079 boned him in the past. He was upset about it. 117 00:06:38.279 --> 00:06:41.639 So b as she was known, encouraged him to take 118 00:06:41.680 --> 00:06:46.560 some goddamn gemology classes. And I'm picturing their conversations and 119 00:06:46.079 --> 00:06:50.519 I imagine them talking about this smoking in the living room. Anyway, 120 00:06:50.560 --> 00:06:53.079 so Shipley did. He went to England and he was 121 00:06:53.120 --> 00:06:56.000 so impressed with the gemology courses he came back to America. 122 00:06:56.240 --> 00:06:59.399 He started up this institute in the US. He sold 123 00:06:59.439 --> 00:07:03.879 microscope and loops and gem info booklets out of their apartment. 124 00:07:04.360 --> 00:07:07.920 He and b Man what a team nowadays. To become 125 00:07:08.000 --> 00:07:10.560 a certified gemologist, you can do it for about twenty 126 00:07:10.560 --> 00:07:13.639 grand on campus in Carlsbad, or a little bit less 127 00:07:13.680 --> 00:07:16.120 if you study it at home. Either way, you definitely 128 00:07:16.160 --> 00:07:18.600 get one of those cool squinty loop situations. 129 00:07:19.160 --> 00:07:21.879 So they send you all the school work and all 130 00:07:21.879 --> 00:07:24.519 the stones to identify, and then you go down there 131 00:07:24.600 --> 00:07:27.360 to take the scariest test of all time to get 132 00:07:27.399 --> 00:07:30.560 your degree. It's very intense. It's called the twenty stone. 133 00:07:30.680 --> 00:07:34.319 It's very like menacing, but you have to you have 134 00:07:34.399 --> 00:07:38.120 to take twenty stones. Whatever they give you, okay, and 135 00:07:39.120 --> 00:07:42.120 it's really whatever they had given you and your test. 136 00:07:42.199 --> 00:07:44.759 They'll give you one of those. But it could be synthetic, 137 00:07:44.920 --> 00:07:47.079 it could be an imitation of something, it could be 138 00:07:47.519 --> 00:07:49.600 the natural form of the stone, but you have to 139 00:07:49.720 --> 00:07:53.279 identify it. Do tests with the gemological equipment like a 140 00:07:53.319 --> 00:07:56.800 refractometer and a polaroscope and things like that, and then 141 00:07:56.839 --> 00:07:58.759 you have to identify what it is. But you can't 142 00:07:58.759 --> 00:08:02.160 get anything wrong. So if you get one little tiny 143 00:08:02.199 --> 00:08:04.399 thing wrong, then you fail. And I actually failed my 144 00:08:04.480 --> 00:08:08.920 first one from one answer. It was a synthetic emerald 145 00:08:09.000 --> 00:08:12.199 versus a natural emerald. And I had to take it 146 00:08:12.240 --> 00:08:13.920 again and it was fine, But oh do. 147 00:08:13.879 --> 00:08:16.279 You hate emeralds? Now? Are you so pissed at them. 148 00:08:16.759 --> 00:08:19.160 It it honestly made me just want to see so 149 00:08:19.240 --> 00:08:21.959 many more, because you know, the best thing you can 150 00:08:22.000 --> 00:08:24.279 do for yourself in dromology is just get your hands 151 00:08:24.319 --> 00:08:27.399 on as many stones as possible, because people are getting 152 00:08:27.480 --> 00:08:31.800 really good at imitating stones and recreating stones to make 153 00:08:31.839 --> 00:08:34.399 them look natural, but they're not. So that's where it 154 00:08:34.399 --> 00:08:37.480 gets scary with like actually buying gemstones or jewelry. You 155 00:08:37.519 --> 00:08:39.559 just like don't know because there's so many good fakes 156 00:08:39.600 --> 00:08:42.360 now and you want to actually know what you're purchasing 157 00:08:42.440 --> 00:08:47.840 or you have so no, I'm like, damn it, emeralds. 158 00:08:47.559 --> 00:08:49.600 How did you get so in? How did you get 159 00:08:49.600 --> 00:08:51.039 so involved in this? Like you've been doing it for 160 00:08:51.080 --> 00:08:54.200 a year. But were you always super into crystals. 161 00:08:54.320 --> 00:08:55.279 From a young age? 162 00:08:55.440 --> 00:08:57.720 Yes, my dad tells me stories of hanging out in 163 00:08:57.720 --> 00:08:59.879 the driveway. You would like, put me outside, and then 164 00:08:59.879 --> 00:09:01.679 he'd come back and there would be these piles of 165 00:09:01.759 --> 00:09:03.559 sticks and stones. He was like, I don't know what 166 00:09:03.600 --> 00:09:06.039 you were doing. If it was like some ceremony or something, 167 00:09:06.240 --> 00:09:09.840 or baby witch doing some sort of spells with the earth, 168 00:09:09.879 --> 00:09:12.799 I'm not sure. But I've always had a fascination with 169 00:09:12.919 --> 00:09:15.840 bugs and rocks and the earth and dirt and things 170 00:09:15.879 --> 00:09:20.200 like that. So I actually went to get a BA 171 00:09:20.360 --> 00:09:24.200 in the arts. First I have an art history minor, 172 00:09:24.600 --> 00:09:28.080 and then it's a fine art degree that's in printmaking. 173 00:09:28.919 --> 00:09:30.799 And I kind of didn't really know what to. 174 00:09:30.799 --> 00:09:32.720 Do from there what I wanted to do, but I 175 00:09:32.720 --> 00:09:35.879 always loved antiques and things like that. So then I 176 00:09:35.919 --> 00:09:38.639 went into the antique world, the antique business, and worked 177 00:09:38.639 --> 00:09:42.200 in some antique shops, and that is where I met 178 00:09:42.360 --> 00:09:46.919 the diamond dealer and understood, like, I love antique jewelry 179 00:09:47.000 --> 00:09:50.240 and the idea of the preservation of history and it's 180 00:09:50.320 --> 00:09:51.240 very sentimental. 181 00:09:51.879 --> 00:09:54.919 When you met the diamond dealer, was he wearing a 182 00:09:55.000 --> 00:09:57.000 cloak and did you have a mustache and monocle? Like? 183 00:09:57.000 --> 00:09:57.600 Who is this guy? 184 00:09:57.679 --> 00:10:00.360 No, he's actually like very suave. He's like very much 185 00:10:00.360 --> 00:10:04.159 a diamond dealer, Like they're very they're very like charming. 186 00:10:04.200 --> 00:10:06.600 They know how to like talk a deal and things 187 00:10:06.679 --> 00:10:09.639 like that, which was good. He was very very supportive 188 00:10:09.720 --> 00:10:12.320 and helpful and just like, you know, you love jewelry 189 00:10:12.360 --> 00:10:14.120 so much, have you thought of this, you should really 190 00:10:14.120 --> 00:10:17.519 look into the program at the GIA. And then I did, 191 00:10:17.679 --> 00:10:21.519 and then from there it's actually really interesting. My love 192 00:10:21.600 --> 00:10:25.039 is actually with minerals and how they come straight from 193 00:10:25.080 --> 00:10:26.759 the earth, the raw specimens. 194 00:10:27.519 --> 00:10:31.360 So this ended up kind of combining nature and art 195 00:10:31.840 --> 00:10:33.399 and history all in one. 196 00:10:33.279 --> 00:10:36.600 All in one, all my favorite things. Yeah, and so 197 00:10:36.759 --> 00:10:37.360 that's where I am. 198 00:10:37.399 --> 00:10:40.000 Now, how did you celebrate when you passed your second test? 199 00:10:40.519 --> 00:10:41.919 I cried and called my mom. 200 00:10:41.960 --> 00:10:42.720 You did? I did. 201 00:10:42.960 --> 00:10:45.960 I literally was like, I'm so proud of my solo 202 00:10:46.639 --> 00:10:50.679 because there was with the online program, there's so many 203 00:10:50.679 --> 00:10:53.320 different people from so many different walks of life taking it. 204 00:10:53.399 --> 00:10:54.960 So there's like older people that have been in the 205 00:10:54.960 --> 00:10:59.440 business forever but they want their actual degree now. It 206 00:10:59.519 --> 00:11:02.399 was mostly some older ladies as well, but a lot 207 00:11:02.440 --> 00:11:04.159 of them had a hard time passing it. So I 208 00:11:04.200 --> 00:11:06.240 was really like psyching myself out. I was like, oh 209 00:11:06.240 --> 00:11:09.120 my gosh, Like they did the online program, and I 210 00:11:09.159 --> 00:11:11.039 did the online program. How am I going to do this? 211 00:11:11.200 --> 00:11:13.279 But I think it's just so mental. It's just going 212 00:11:13.320 --> 00:11:16.480 in there just saying I understand the stones, I've seen them, 213 00:11:16.559 --> 00:11:19.039 I know what to look for, and you get to 214 00:11:19.120 --> 00:11:21.759 like use a microscope to look inside there and just 215 00:11:21.799 --> 00:11:23.519 like see the entire world of the stone. 216 00:11:23.919 --> 00:11:26.039 No cheat sheet, no cheat sheet, can. 217 00:11:25.919 --> 00:11:28.080 You wear any rings or anything with you? 218 00:11:28.000 --> 00:11:30.759 You're like, all right, I know that, I wish there 219 00:11:30.840 --> 00:11:32.759 is like this giant book you get to use. So 220 00:11:33.559 --> 00:11:36.039 what you first do is you kind of identify a 221 00:11:36.080 --> 00:11:39.919 body color and if it's translucent or opaque, things like that, 222 00:11:40.080 --> 00:11:43.279 like characteristics just looking at it with your eye, and 223 00:11:43.320 --> 00:11:46.720 then you go into using a refractometer, which is where 224 00:11:46.759 --> 00:11:49.159 you put the stone with our liquid and you figure 225 00:11:49.159 --> 00:11:52.279 out what it's refractive indexes. That's kind of like how 226 00:11:52.320 --> 00:11:55.399 it splits light, and that's a very big sign of 227 00:11:55.440 --> 00:11:57.240 what the stone's going to be. So if it's one 228 00:11:57.240 --> 00:11:59.720 point seven to seven, you know it's going to be 229 00:12:00.080 --> 00:12:02.759 like a sapphire generally. So each stone kind of has 230 00:12:02.759 --> 00:12:07.480 their own number which helps you identify. Some are very similar, 231 00:12:07.519 --> 00:12:10.600 so you need a bit more information, like use the 232 00:12:10.639 --> 00:12:14.519 polaroscope to see its polarity of things, and then you 233 00:12:14.600 --> 00:12:16.440 go from there, but you do a couple tests to 234 00:12:16.440 --> 00:12:18.919 figure out and then you have to go into looking 235 00:12:18.960 --> 00:12:22.919 at through the microscope to see does it have signs of. 236 00:12:24.559 --> 00:12:27.480 Being you know, man made? Is it a bull? Is 237 00:12:27.519 --> 00:12:28.000 that you know? 238 00:12:28.440 --> 00:12:30.120 From what do you tell if it's man made? 239 00:12:30.399 --> 00:12:34.600 Is it two parars? Sometimes like it's very eye clean. 240 00:12:34.720 --> 00:12:36.399 So if you don't see anything, you're like, well, this 241 00:12:36.399 --> 00:12:38.879 looks a little suspicious. Okay, so you're like it's either 242 00:12:38.879 --> 00:12:42.039 a natural stone that's been heated or diffuse to make 243 00:12:42.080 --> 00:12:45.679 the color better, or it's now a synthetic stone that 244 00:12:45.799 --> 00:12:49.279 is created through one of four processes with like heat 245 00:12:49.360 --> 00:12:51.039 and chemicals and things like that. 246 00:12:51.159 --> 00:12:52.519 So it's really interesting. 247 00:12:52.519 --> 00:12:56.080 It looks like this long cylinder shape the the synthetic 248 00:12:56.120 --> 00:12:59.080 ones called a bool, and then they cut it from there. 249 00:12:59.559 --> 00:13:01.720 So when you're looking in the microscope and you turn 250 00:13:01.759 --> 00:13:04.320 it on a certain access, you can see these beautiful 251 00:13:04.480 --> 00:13:07.480 curve strye, which is like rings, and that's how you 252 00:13:07.519 --> 00:13:10.080 tell it was in this cylinder shape. 253 00:13:10.120 --> 00:13:11.879 Cool, and how do they make them? Do they just 254 00:13:11.919 --> 00:13:15.120 put some carbon like under insane pressure in a factory. 255 00:13:15.360 --> 00:13:18.919 Yeah, it's like in this platinum crucible, and then like 256 00:13:19.120 --> 00:13:21.840 minerals and like there's a few different processes where they 257 00:13:21.840 --> 00:13:25.360 either like slowly drip minerals in there or they just 258 00:13:25.399 --> 00:13:27.159 have it all in this kind of mixture and then 259 00:13:27.200 --> 00:13:29.559 they heat it up and it's very complicate. 260 00:13:29.559 --> 00:13:31.440 I don't even know. I'd love to see how it's done. 261 00:13:32.960 --> 00:13:35.519 Are there any people that go synthetic because they think 262 00:13:35.559 --> 00:13:39.120 it's like more like cruelty free or like better like 263 00:13:39.320 --> 00:13:41.919 from an environmental or yeah, like there's no whole blood 264 00:13:41.919 --> 00:13:46.559 diamond sitch like, right, do people gravitate towards synthetic kind 265 00:13:46.559 --> 00:13:49.480 of like get tofurky on Thanksgiving? You know what? 266 00:13:49.519 --> 00:13:54.200 I think synthetic is more for cost. 267 00:13:54.639 --> 00:13:56.759 I think a lot of people want the look of 268 00:13:56.799 --> 00:13:59.000 a beautiful sapphire, but maybe they can't afford it, so 269 00:13:59.039 --> 00:14:01.600 then they go synthet and you still get that great 270 00:14:01.639 --> 00:14:04.720 look and it is the actual chemical makeup of the sapphire, 271 00:14:05.159 --> 00:14:09.039 but it's just synthetic and it's been man made. I 272 00:14:09.080 --> 00:14:13.720 think mining is hard to really wrap your mind around 273 00:14:13.759 --> 00:14:19.159 because there are certain governmental protection for the miners and 274 00:14:19.279 --> 00:14:21.799 the companies that are put in place, so there isn't, 275 00:14:22.039 --> 00:14:25.399 you know, constant power struggle for these or violence things 276 00:14:25.440 --> 00:14:28.600 like that. You can't control everything, so unfortunately you just 277 00:14:28.600 --> 00:14:31.919 don't know where all these pieces are coming from. But 278 00:14:32.799 --> 00:14:34.480 I think that's why for me, I really like a 279 00:14:34.480 --> 00:14:37.720 lot of the antique jewelry because it's been around, it's 280 00:14:37.720 --> 00:14:39.039 not new, it's not being mined. 281 00:14:39.120 --> 00:14:43.000 Now these days, people of course, are much more aware 282 00:14:43.039 --> 00:14:45.879 of blood diamonds so thanks Leonardo DiCaprio for bringing it 283 00:14:45.919 --> 00:14:49.679 into awareness with your film Blood diamond They're also called 284 00:14:49.879 --> 00:14:52.919 conflict diamonds, which I feel like there was someone in 285 00:14:52.960 --> 00:14:55.279 PR that's like, can we not call them blood diamonds? 286 00:14:55.360 --> 00:14:59.960 Can call them conflict diamonds. Conflict sounds less awful than 287 00:15:00.559 --> 00:15:03.360 blood diamonds. But these stones. The money was used to 288 00:15:03.440 --> 00:15:08.440 fund ongoing conflict, insurgency and wars. Now it's said that 289 00:15:08.559 --> 00:15:12.960 one in four diamonds roughly is a conflict diamond. But 290 00:15:13.000 --> 00:15:16.480 there were regulations, There's one called the Kimberly process, and 291 00:15:17.159 --> 00:15:19.919 some things passed through, that's for sure. I asked Kelly 292 00:15:19.919 --> 00:15:22.279 how she felt about it, and she said this, I'm 293 00:15:22.399 --> 00:15:25.399 very into ethically sourced diamonds, although I think even with 294 00:15:25.440 --> 00:15:27.919 all the laws and systems in place, it can be 295 00:15:27.960 --> 00:15:31.240 hard to truly know how diamonds come to find themselves 296 00:15:31.320 --> 00:15:34.440 in jewelry. And that is why I'm also a huge 297 00:15:34.480 --> 00:15:39.200 fan of older diamonds or reusing family diamonds. So there 298 00:15:39.240 --> 00:15:43.559 you go. Old is cool. Now, what's up with birthstones? 299 00:15:43.639 --> 00:15:46.399 And does Kelly even like hers? God? I hope it's 300 00:15:46.399 --> 00:15:47.000 not an emeralds. 301 00:15:47.120 --> 00:15:50.320 It's not the Lord. Can you imagine I'm an aquamarine. 302 00:15:50.519 --> 00:15:52.679 Just be spiteful towards my birthstone for the rest of 303 00:15:52.679 --> 00:15:53.039 my life. 304 00:15:53.080 --> 00:15:55.960 Though, it's how do they choose that? How do they 305 00:15:56.000 --> 00:15:58.080 decide that that's what month is? 306 00:15:58.080 --> 00:15:59.320 That? It's March? March? 307 00:15:59.360 --> 00:16:02.240 Okay, honestly I have no idea what the history is 308 00:16:02.279 --> 00:16:03.600 of birthstones. 309 00:16:03.720 --> 00:16:08.240 But all right, history of birthstones, this goes back to 310 00:16:08.440 --> 00:16:12.000 the Bible. Was not what I was expecting to learn. 311 00:16:12.480 --> 00:16:16.840 Israelites were a ceremonial breastplate. It was adorned with four 312 00:16:16.960 --> 00:16:21.080 rows of three precious stones, said to represent the twelve 313 00:16:21.200 --> 00:16:24.879 tribes of Israel. There's also something in the Book of Revelation, 314 00:16:25.120 --> 00:16:29.000 chapter twenty one about twelve different stones. So this goes 315 00:16:29.039 --> 00:16:32.720 way way way back. But in nineteen sixteen, a bunch 316 00:16:32.759 --> 00:16:35.799 of jewelers got together in Kansas and put out an 317 00:16:35.799 --> 00:16:39.679 official list. This is your month you were born, this 318 00:16:39.759 --> 00:16:43.240 is your stone. Suddenly everyone cared about their stone. It 319 00:16:43.320 --> 00:16:46.600 was genius, everyone except people who got topaz. 320 00:16:47.519 --> 00:16:48.440 What's yours? Do you know? 321 00:16:48.720 --> 00:16:49.600 Mine sucks? 322 00:16:49.759 --> 00:16:50.279 What is it? 323 00:16:50.080 --> 00:16:53.039 It's a topaz. I was gonna say pearl, but oh, 324 00:16:53.080 --> 00:16:56.679 my gosh, topaz. There's some beautiful topaz like imperial topaz. 325 00:16:56.759 --> 00:16:57.480 Is my favorites. 326 00:16:57.480 --> 00:17:02.799 It's like beautiful, like glowing kind of orange red paths 327 00:17:02.840 --> 00:17:04.160 and it's just spectacular. 328 00:17:04.559 --> 00:17:07.519 Well that actually okay, because every time you'd go to 329 00:17:07.559 --> 00:17:10.000 like the mall and they'd be like, what's your what's 330 00:17:10.000 --> 00:17:12.519 your mund and everyone would be like emeralds and dumonds 331 00:17:12.519 --> 00:17:15.759 and rubies and then topaths. You'd get to November and 332 00:17:15.799 --> 00:17:18.160 it was literally the color of like sewer water, and 333 00:17:18.160 --> 00:17:21.880 you're like, what happened? Why did they run out of 334 00:17:22.000 --> 00:17:23.359 gemstones in November? 335 00:17:23.400 --> 00:17:29.079 They just decided to make the probably the worst color topaz. 336 00:17:28.960 --> 00:17:31.799 But why are there some wired topaz is? Like, Okay, 337 00:17:31.839 --> 00:17:33.920 we know diamonds can be different colors. 338 00:17:34.480 --> 00:17:36.720 Topazes can be many different colors. 339 00:17:36.440 --> 00:17:38.799 The same with emeralds and rubies. What makes a gem 340 00:17:39.000 --> 00:17:40.960 different colors? It was such a dumb question. 341 00:17:41.240 --> 00:17:44.640 The chemical makeup of the gems. So whatever minerals were 342 00:17:44.680 --> 00:17:46.759 in the area, the heat and the pressure in the 343 00:17:46.799 --> 00:17:51.720 minerals in the ground, that combined create the chemical makeup 344 00:17:51.759 --> 00:17:53.960 of a stone, and that creates the color. So like 345 00:17:54.759 --> 00:17:57.880 vanadium and things like that can create a different color 346 00:17:57.880 --> 00:18:01.759 in different gemstones. It's all about what is combined and 347 00:18:01.799 --> 00:18:03.880 what was kind of like in the stew of this 348 00:18:04.720 --> 00:18:09.079 mineral that made it that color. So with like, tourmaline 349 00:18:09.160 --> 00:18:11.039 is one of my favorite stones because it comes in 350 00:18:12.079 --> 00:18:14.759 I think the largest array of colors, you know, like 351 00:18:14.839 --> 00:18:18.759 hot pink and gorgeous teals and green and blue and 352 00:18:19.440 --> 00:18:22.640 reds every color really, and so I think a lot 353 00:18:22.680 --> 00:18:25.200 of gemstones people don't realize do that as well. Like 354 00:18:26.119 --> 00:18:29.599 it's interesting because a ruby and a sapphire are actually 355 00:18:29.640 --> 00:18:32.920 the same stone. They're both in the family of corundum, really, 356 00:18:33.200 --> 00:18:36.200 but then their color gives them a specific name. So 357 00:18:36.920 --> 00:18:40.640 a ruby is the red form of corundums, stop it, 358 00:18:40.799 --> 00:18:43.359 and then sapphire is the blue form. And then you 359 00:18:43.400 --> 00:18:46.920 can also get into like the definition of a pink 360 00:18:47.000 --> 00:18:50.960 sapphire versus a ruby is just the color. So pink 361 00:18:51.000 --> 00:18:53.559 sapphire and ruby are the same thing, except when you 362 00:18:53.599 --> 00:18:55.680 have a red body color, it's then a. 363 00:18:55.680 --> 00:18:57.480 Ruby instead of a pink summer. 364 00:18:57.519 --> 00:19:00.720 Well, I think what makes a topaz different from an 365 00:19:00.720 --> 00:19:04.200 emerald or from a ruby, Like what is it? The 366 00:19:04.240 --> 00:19:05.599 structure of the crystals, the. 367 00:19:05.519 --> 00:19:09.000 Structure of the crystal and just literally the chemical compound. 368 00:19:09.119 --> 00:19:15.240 So there's seven different growth characteristic types for gemstone, so 369 00:19:15.240 --> 00:19:19.319 there's only seven ways that they'll really grow monolithic trilithic. 370 00:19:19.400 --> 00:19:22.440 There's seven of these in these structures, so you'll see 371 00:19:22.480 --> 00:19:25.839 a spinel or like pi rite and they grow into. 372 00:19:25.759 --> 00:19:27.279 Like a perfect cube. 373 00:19:27.440 --> 00:19:30.640 It's so cool, right, naturally just a cube, and some 374 00:19:31.000 --> 00:19:35.039 grow like with a like hexagonal shape. A barrel grows 375 00:19:35.079 --> 00:19:39.920 with a hexagon, so that also contributes to what makes 376 00:19:39.960 --> 00:19:44.759 them different, is their natural growth structure. But topaz is beautiful. 377 00:19:44.799 --> 00:19:46.920 In summer, I've seen like a kind of bluey green 378 00:19:46.960 --> 00:19:48.359 one of so. 379 00:19:47.839 --> 00:19:51.079 So nice beautiful water. That's a that's like a very 380 00:19:51.160 --> 00:19:52.799 like you know when you see like an ugly baby 381 00:19:52.839 --> 00:19:54.559 and you're like, it's gonna grow up and be fine, like, 382 00:19:54.559 --> 00:19:58.000 but topaz is like, al right, it's like but it's beautiful. 383 00:19:58.119 --> 00:19:59.240 They're all beautiful. 384 00:19:59.319 --> 00:20:00.319 They're all beautif. 385 00:20:00.359 --> 00:20:02.400 You just have to find the ones that really speak 386 00:20:02.440 --> 00:20:03.480 to you. That's what it's about. 387 00:20:03.640 --> 00:20:05.400 Are you pissed about pearl because a pearls not a 388 00:20:05.400 --> 00:20:08.680 goddamn gemstone that's just a dingleberry from a clam from 389 00:20:08.680 --> 00:20:11.000 an oystery. But do you know what I mean? 390 00:20:11.359 --> 00:20:13.440 No, Yeah, it's an organic product. 391 00:20:13.559 --> 00:20:16.640 So it's I mean for me, I like, I'm not 392 00:20:16.680 --> 00:20:20.000 super into pearls just because that they're actually cut from 393 00:20:20.039 --> 00:20:22.759 an animal. I'm vegan, but oh so it makes me sad, 394 00:20:23.039 --> 00:20:25.680 But it's also just beautiful that like an animal can 395 00:20:25.759 --> 00:20:28.200 create such an incredible product. 396 00:20:28.240 --> 00:20:29.400 It's just this natural. 397 00:20:30.200 --> 00:20:33.119 But it's not a gem or is it a gem? 398 00:20:33.160 --> 00:20:35.920 What's a gem exactly like versus a mineral? 399 00:20:36.319 --> 00:20:38.279 Oh gosh, I wish I could have remembered the exact 400 00:20:38.279 --> 00:20:40.240 definition of that right now. 401 00:20:40.480 --> 00:20:42.359