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<v Speaker 1>Okay, let's kick things off. We have a really interesting

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<v Speaker 1>source for our deep dive today. It's the book three

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<v Speaker 1>D Printing Blueprints by Joe Larsen, and our mission really

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<v Speaker 1>is to get into the heart of well designing stuff

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<v Speaker 1>for this pretty exciting world of home three D printing.

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<v Speaker 2>It is exciting, you.

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<v Speaker 1>Know, having a three D printer just sitting there. It's

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<v Speaker 1>cool definitely. But the real magic, I think, the thing

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<v Speaker 1>that plugs you into that whole New Industrial Age idea

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<v Speaker 1>the book mentions, is designing the objects yourself, taking your

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<v Speaker 1>own ideas, you know, maybe just sketches or concepts, and

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<v Speaker 1>actually making them real physical things.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, turning bits into atoms basically exactly.

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<v Speaker 1>And the really great starting point of this book, which

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<v Speaker 1>is key for you listening, is that it argues you

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<v Speaker 1>don't need to be some kind of amazing artist or

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<v Speaker 1>a CAD expert to start. If you can handle spatial

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<v Speaker 1>puzzles like Tetris maybe, or even just you know, play

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<v Speaker 1>pictionary and visualized shapes, or if you messed around with

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<v Speaker 1>modeling clay, yeah, you kind of have the basics. Just

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<v Speaker 1>need a computer really and some creativity and.

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<v Speaker 2>The shift you mentioned bringing fabrication from goog factories down

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<v Speaker 2>to the desktop scale. It's genuinely transformative. It really is

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<v Speaker 2>a new kind of accessibility for manufacturing. Yeah, but you

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<v Speaker 2>hit the nail on the head. The possibilities feel endless.

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<v Speaker 2>But these home printers, especially the FtM type of the

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<v Speaker 2>book mostly talks about they build layer by layer, and

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<v Speaker 2>that process has real physical limits. You can't just dream

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<v Speaker 2>up anything and expect it to print perfectly. Careful design

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<v Speaker 2>is just well essential.

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<v Speaker 1>So what tools are we talking about?

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<v Speaker 2>Well, the book focus is mainly on Blender, which is

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<v Speaker 2>a great choice. Honestly, it's powerful, it's free, open source,

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<v Speaker 2>it runs everywhere right, runs everyone, Windows, Mac, Linux now.

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<v Speaker 2>Blenders for the modeling part, but the source also points

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<v Speaker 2>out you need other bits like slicer software. The slicer Yeah,

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<v Speaker 2>things like kiraprusa slicer, maybe even the older replicator g

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<v Speaker 2>forker box. That software turns your three D model into

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<v Speaker 2>actual instructions. The printer understands line by line, layer by layer.

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<v Speaker 1>Got it?

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<v Speaker 2>And of course, so it's like thingaverse get mentioned too.

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<v Speaker 2>Super useful for finding models, sure, but eventually for sharing

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<v Speaker 2>your own designs once.

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<v Speaker 1>You get going, and the book's approach to teaching this.

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<v Speaker 1>It sounds very practical.

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<v Speaker 2>Very it uses these blueprints right guided projects. Essentially, you

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<v Speaker 2>start with something simple and each project introduces a few

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<v Speaker 2>new Blender tools or.

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<v Speaker 1>Techniques, so you build skills gradually.

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<v Speaker 2>Exactly. It's not just theory. It's focused on learning by doing,

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<v Speaker 2>building up that muscle memory for how the tools work,

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<v Speaker 2>how to think about shapes in three D space.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, so doing, not just reading precisely.

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<v Speaker 2>And the very first hurdle it tackles head on are

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<v Speaker 2>those basic design rules, the ones dictated by the physics

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<v Speaker 2>of laying down melted plastic. And the absolute number one

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<v Speaker 2>enemy it's well unsupported plastic trying to print out into thin.

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<v Speaker 1>Air, right, the infamous spitting monster.

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<v Speaker 2>Getting monster or the bird's nest. Yeah, if there's nothing

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<v Speaker 2>holding up a section of plastic as it cools, it

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<v Speaker 2>just droops or strings everywhere, total failure. So supports then,

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<v Speaker 2>so supports. Yes, you can print temporary structures. Some of

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<v Speaker 2>you just break away. Others might dissolve in water or something,

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<v Speaker 2>but you know, they leave little mark. Sometimes they use

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<v Speaker 2>up filament, which is waste, and removing them can be

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<v Speaker 2>a bit messier fiddly.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, So ideally.

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<v Speaker 2>Ideally, and this is what good design really pushes for.

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<v Speaker 2>You try to design your model so it doesn't need supports,

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<v Speaker 2>or at least minimizes them.

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<v Speaker 1>Ah, So design around the limitation.

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<v Speaker 2>Exactly, which brings us to some key ideas for supportless printing.

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<v Speaker 2>Angles are huge angles, Yeah, outward slopes or overhangs. They

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<v Speaker 2>need to be gradual. The rule of thumb is usually

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<v Speaker 2>keep it at forty five degrees or less from the vertical.

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<v Speaker 2>That's generally safe.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, forty five degrees.

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<v Speaker 2>Think simple shapes. A capital H print's fine, right, each

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<v Speaker 2>lighter rests on the one below.

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<v Speaker 1>It makes sense.

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<v Speaker 2>But a capital T that horizontal top bars picking out

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<v Speaker 2>with nothing underneath that needs support or you need to

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<v Speaker 2>redesign it somehow, maybe at a champer or curve underneath.

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<v Speaker 1>So sharp overhangs are bad.

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<v Speaker 2>Very tricky without supports. Now, some fancier printers have dual extruders,

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<v Speaker 2>you know, maybe for printing supports in a different material

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<v Speaker 2>or doing multiple colors, right, but the book really focuses

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<v Speaker 2>on single extruder designs. That's what most people have at home.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, what about printing across gaps like the bar in.

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<v Speaker 2>The h ah, Yes, bridging, that's what that's called. Where

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<v Speaker 2>the printer stretches a line of plastic between two supported points.

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<v Speaker 1>Can printers actually do that?

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<v Speaker 2>They can? Yeah, yeah, but it depends heavily on the printer,

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<v Speaker 2>the material, The setting's cooling is really important. Your printer

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<v Speaker 2>needs to be well calibrated. The key is keeping bridges

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<v Speaker 2>relatively short and simple, like that bar in the h

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<v Speaker 2>long Complex bridges are much more likely to fail or sag.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, got it, So supports angles bridging. These are the

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<v Speaker 1>fundamental physity that you're designed against.

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<v Speaker 2>Or maybe designing with exactly. You have to respect the process,

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<v Speaker 2>all right.

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<v Speaker 1>So for this deep dive drawing from Joe Larsen's Blueprints approach,

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<v Speaker 1>our mission seems pretty clear. First understand these basic design principles,

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<v Speaker 1>the why.

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<v Speaker 2>Behind them yep, the physics of printing, and then walk.

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<v Speaker 1>Through how the book uses its projects to teach the

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<v Speaker 1>actual how, the different modeling techniques, the blender tools you

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<v Speaker 1>use for different kinds of objects solving different design problems.

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<v Speaker 2>Sounds like a plan seeing how you go from a

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<v Speaker 2>simple idea to a printable file.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, then let's dive into those blueprints and follow that

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<v Speaker 1>design journey. Where does it start? Typically, Well, like.

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<v Speaker 2>We said, it emphasizes learning by doing, So those initial

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<v Speaker 2>blueprints are all about just getting your feet wet and blender.

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<v Speaker 2>Basic navigation and manipulation.

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<v Speaker 1>Like moving around the three D space.

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<v Speaker 2>Exactly, adding primitive shapes, cubes, cylinders, fheares, you know, the

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<v Speaker 2>building blocks. Then learning to orbit, the view pan, zoom

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<v Speaker 2>in and out, absolutely fundamentally.

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<v Speaker 1>Selecting thing and selecting things.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, using simple tools like the box select or the

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<v Speaker 2>circle select to just choose which object, or later which

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<v Speaker 2>part of an object you want to actually work on.

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<v Speaker 2>It's the groundwork before you start really changing shapes.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, basics first, Then you need to actually do something

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<v Speaker 1>with those shapes once you select them.

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<v Speaker 2>Right, So, the book quickly moves into the basic transformations

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<v Speaker 2>we mentioned them, grab, rotate, scale.

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<v Speaker 1>Moving, turning, resizing.

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<v Speaker 2>These become like breathing as you start blocking out the

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<v Speaker 2>main forms of whatever you're designing. But pretty soon just

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<v Speaker 2>moving whole objects around isn't enough. You need to change

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<v Speaker 2>the object's actual geometry. Get inside the shape, get inside

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<v Speaker 2>the shape. That's where edit mode comes in and tools

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<v Speaker 2>like extrude are introduced. Early, super powerful extrude. Yeah, you

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<v Speaker 2>select a face like the side of a cube, and

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<v Speaker 2>you pull it outwards. It creates new geometry connected to

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<v Speaker 2>the old. Yeah, like pulling the handle shape right out

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<v Speaker 2>of the side of the mini mug project in the book.

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<v Speaker 1>Ah okay, so adding material conceptually.

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<v Speaker 2>Kind of or extending existing geometry. Loop cut is another

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<v Speaker 2>vital one shown early. It lets you slice new edge

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<v Speaker 2>loops around your model.

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<v Speaker 1>Why would you do that?

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<v Speaker 2>It gives you more vertices, more edges, more faces to

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<v Speaker 2>work with, more control points for refining the shape or

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<v Speaker 2>maybe setting up edges that you plan to extrude later.

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<v Speaker 2>More detail basically right right.

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<v Speaker 1>It sounds like you're building up the detail bit by bit,

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<v Speaker 1>almost like the printer itself does.

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<v Speaker 2>That's a great analogy actually, And as you get more

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<v Speaker 2>comfortable with those fundamental edits, the book starts introducing modifiers.

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<v Speaker 1>Modifiers sounds powerful.

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<v Speaker 2>They are. They're like automated ocerations you apply to your object,

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<v Speaker 2>but they're non destructive, usually meaning you can tweet them

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<v Speaker 2>or turn them off later.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay. Examples.

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<v Speaker 2>The boolean modifier is a real workhorse. It gets used

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<v Speaker 2>a lot. Think of it like virtual cutting or welding.

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<v Speaker 1>Cutting and welding.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, you can use one object shape to cut a

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<v Speaker 2>hole right through another one, or you can fuse two

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<v Speaker 2>separate objects together into one single seamless mesh.

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<v Speaker 1>Oh oh wow, Okay, I can see how that would

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<v Speaker 1>be useful.

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<v Speaker 2>Absolutely essential for creating parts that need to fit together,

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<v Speaker 2>like making housings or interlocking pieces. It shows up in

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<v Speaker 2>the Robot project, the D six spinner, even for cleaning

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<v Speaker 2>up messy geometry sometimes.

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<v Speaker 1>Mm any other key modifiers Oh yeah.

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<v Speaker 2>Multi resolution is another good one. It's great for smoothing

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<v Speaker 2>things out or adding detail to organic shapes.

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<v Speaker 1>Like characters or sculptures exactly.

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<v Speaker 2>Instead of manually adding millions of tiny polygons, you can

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<v Speaker 2>use multi resolution to subdivide the mesh smoothly and then

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<v Speaker 2>maybe sculpt finer details on top. It makes creating smoother,

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<v Speaker 2>more natural forms much easier. You see it used on

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<v Speaker 2>the Teddy Bear, but also just for smoothing parts of

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<v Speaker 2>the Mini Mug.

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<v Speaker 1>So modifiers handle complex stuff, will give you higher level controls.

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<v Speaker 2>Pretty much, and they can build complex geometry from really

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<v Speaker 2>simple starting points too. Like the screw modifier screw like threads,

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<v Speaker 2>it can do threads more generally. It takes a two

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<v Speaker 2>D profile line just a flat shape and spins it

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<v Speaker 2>around an axis lathe you can make vases, bottles, anything

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<v Speaker 2>radially symmetrical.

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah okay.

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<v Speaker 2>Combine that with something like the solidify modifier, which just

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<v Speaker 2>adds thickness to a flat surface, and you can create

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<v Speaker 2>surprisingly complex hollow printable objects starting from just a simple line.

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<v Speaker 2>The face Illusion Base project is a perfect example of

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<v Speaker 2>that technique. That sounds efficient, it off, it is, and

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<v Speaker 2>it can help ensure the final object is manifold or

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<v Speaker 2>water tight, which is super important for the slicer software.

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<v Speaker 1>Right, water tight that came up with supports. You also

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<v Speaker 1>mentioned accuracy. How does the book handle making things you know,

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<v Speaker 1>the right size, especially for functional parts.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, that's crucial. Blender isn't like traditional CAD, which is

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<v Speaker 2>built purely for engineering precision from the ground up, but

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<v Speaker 2>the book absolutely shows how you can work accurately. How

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<v Speaker 2>so it introduces using real world measurements like with digital calibers.

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<v Speaker 2>Measure the thing you want to fit, then model to

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<v Speaker 2>those dimensions. Okay, there's even neat trick using grid paper,

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<v Speaker 2>lay it flat, take a phot import that image into

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<v Speaker 2>Blender as a reference plane. Oh clever, and then model

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<v Speaker 2>on top of it. Using the grid for scale, Plus

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<v Speaker 2>you learn to use Blender's own measurement tools and grid

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<v Speaker 2>snapping features. Projects like the SD card holder ring really

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<v Speaker 2>drive home why you need to design specific dimensions. It

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<v Speaker 2>often suggests setting blenders units to millimeters to keep things straightforward.

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<v Speaker 1>Makes sense. Millimeters are pretty standard for printing, yep.

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<v Speaker 2>Then there's a whole different side of modeling organic shapes,

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<v Speaker 2>not hard edges and flat surfaces, but curves characters like.

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<v Speaker 1>The Teddy Bear you mentioned it exactly that.

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<v Speaker 2>Uses a different toolkit. The book introduces the skin modifier first,

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<v Speaker 2>which is pretty cool. You make a simple wireframe skeleton

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<v Speaker 2>like a stick figure, and the skin modifier instantly adds

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<v Speaker 2>volume around it, making a basic mesh body really fast

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<v Speaker 2>for blocking out characters or creatures. Then if you want

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<v Speaker 2>to pose it, you can get into Armature's actual posable

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<v Speaker 2>skeletons inside the mesh and weight painting to control how

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<v Speaker 2>the mesh deforms when you move the bones, so.

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<v Speaker 1>You can pose it before you print it.

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<v Speaker 2>Right, And if we're adding all the soft details, the

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<v Speaker 2>fur texture, refining the shape, that's where sculpting tools come in.

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<v Speaker 2>It's like working with digital clay. You push, pull, smooth

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<v Speaker 2>pinch the match directly very intuitive for organic forms. The

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<v Speaker 2>Teddy Bear project walks through that whole process.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, so different tools for different jobs, geometric versus organic.

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<v Speaker 1>What about things that need to work mechanically, multiple parts?

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<v Speaker 2>Good question definitely covers that the Modular Robot toy blueprint

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<v Speaker 2>is a prime example. It's all about designing separate parts

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<v Speaker 2>that are meant to connect together, designing your own custom

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<v Speaker 2>pegs and sockets, basically and crucially thinking about tolerances.

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<v Speaker 1>Tolerances meaning gaps.

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<v Speaker 2>Exactly, leaving a tiny gap maybe like zero point two

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<v Speaker 2>millimeters between parts that are supposed to fit together, so

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<v Speaker 2>they actually do fit. Not too tight, not too loose.

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<v Speaker 2>That's vital for functional prints.

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<v Speaker 1>Right, Plastic isn't perfectly precise, It isn't.

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<v Speaker 2>The D six Spinder project goes even further into mechanical design,

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<v Speaker 2>using Blender add ons to generate things like gears and

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<v Speaker 2>thinking about how the parts will interact when printed. It

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<v Speaker 2>also shows how to clean up geometry issues that sometimes

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<v Speaker 2>come from those add ons, like merging duplicate vertices to

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<v Speaker 2>make sure the final model is solid.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, tolerances connectors even using add ons, and.

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<v Speaker 2>One really important takeaway I think is that the design

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<v Speaker 2>process doesn't actually stop when you export the three D

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<v Speaker 2>model file. It doesn't. No, the book makes a point

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<v Speaker 2>that your design choices continue right into the slicer software.

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<v Speaker 1>How so you mean like print speed or temperature, those two.

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<v Speaker 2>But also things that directly affect the object's properties like

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<v Speaker 2>infill the internal support structure. You can change the pattern

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<v Speaker 2>or density. You can even turn off the top and

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<v Speaker 2>bottom solid layers entirely.

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<v Speaker 1>Why would you do that?

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<v Speaker 2>Well, the stretchy braiselet blueprint is a perfect example. By

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<v Speaker 2>using a specific low density infill pattern and maybe no

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<v Speaker 2>top bottom layers, the resulting print becomes flexible, almost like fabric.

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<v Speaker 2>So you're using the slicer settings as a design tool

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<v Speaker 2>to get a specific physical property.

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<v Speaker 1>Uh that's thinking outside the box or inside the slicer

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<v Speaker 1>I guess yeah.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah. And finally, a really practical, vital skill the book

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<v Speaker 2>teaches is how to fix models.

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<v Speaker 1>Fix broken prints.

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<v Speaker 2>No, fix broken digital models, maybe something you downloaded from

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<v Speaker 2>online that wasn't actually designed well for three D printing.

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<v Speaker 1>H models with errors exactly.

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<v Speaker 2>It shows you how to spot and repair common problems

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<v Speaker 2>holes in the mesh surface.

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<v Speaker 1>Non manifold geomesh non manial.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, it's where the geometry doesn't make sense physically, like

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<v Speaker 2>an edge connected to three faces, or an internal face

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<v Speaker 2>dividing the volume. Basically edges or vertices that break the

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<v Speaker 2>rule of having a clear inside and outside and also

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<v Speaker 2>flipped normals where a surface is facing inwards instead of outwards.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, so problems that confuse the slicer.

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<v Speaker 2>Precisely, a three D print needs a perfectly closed, water

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<v Speaker 2>tight manifold mesh. The book gives you Blender tools and

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<v Speaker 2>techniques to identify those errors and fix them, reclculating normals,

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<v Speaker 2>merging vertices, patching holes, essential stuff.

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<v Speaker 1>Wow. Okay, that really covers a huge range then, from

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<v Speaker 1>just adding a cube all the way through sculpting mechanical parts,

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<v Speaker 1>fixing bad models, even using the slicer creatively.

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<v Speaker 2>It absolutely does. It really underscores that designing for print

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<v Speaker 2>uses a whole spectrum of tools and techniques within Blender.

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<v Speaker 2>You pick the wide approach based on what you're trying

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<v Speaker 2>to make.

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<v Speaker 1>And I think what this deep dive really drawing from

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<v Speaker 1>Larsen's whole approach in the book Hammer's Home, is that

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<v Speaker 1>core idea learning to design your own stuff. That's probably

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<v Speaker 1>the best way to really unlock what these home three

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<v Speaker 1>D printers can do today.

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<v Speaker 2>I completely agree.

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<v Speaker 1>It's about closing that loop, isn't it Taking the idea

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<v Speaker 1>from your head or screen and making it into a

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<v Speaker 1>real thing you can pick up and use.

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<v Speaker 2>Absolutely, and the practical potential that unlocks is just immense.

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<v Speaker 2>I mean, think about it. A plastic part breaks on

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<v Speaker 2>some appliance. Instead of junking the whole thing, yeah, you

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<v Speaker 2>can measure the broken bit, maybe use that grid paper

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<v Speaker 2>trick to get the shape right, model or replacement and

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<v Speaker 2>print it instant repair.

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<v Speaker 1>Like the drawer guide example in the.

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<v Speaker 2>Book, exactly like that. Or you invent completely new gadgets

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<v Speaker 2>making you unique art pieces, customize toys for your kids,

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<v Speaker 2>build those modular robot parts that can be mixed and matched.

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<v Speaker 2>The possibilities really open up.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, So final thought, Then, with this power, this ability

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<v Speaker 1>to measure the world around you, model it digitally and

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<v Speaker 1>then actually print it back into physical reality now kind

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<v Speaker 1>of accessible to anyone. How does that change the way

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<v Speaker 1>you look at every day objects or problems, or maybe

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<v Speaker 1>put another way for you listening, what's the first idea

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<v Speaker 1>that's currently just living inside your computer, that you would

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<v Speaker 1>want to hold in your hand,
