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<v Speaker 1>This show is produced and hosted by Mark Webber. The

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<v Speaker 1>show is sponsored by G three Aparol. The views expressed

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<v Speaker 1>in the following program are those at the sponsor and

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<v Speaker 1>not necessarily the opinion of seven tenor or iHeartMedia. Who

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<v Speaker 1>is Mark Weber. He's a self made business executive here

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<v Speaker 1>to help you find your success, from the New York

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<v Speaker 1>City projects to the Avenue Montaigne in Paris. His global

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<v Speaker 1>success story in the luxury world of fashion is inspirational.

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<v Speaker 1>He's gone from clerk to CEO twice. Mark is classic

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<v Speaker 1>proof that the American dream is alive. And well, here's

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<v Speaker 1>your host of always in Fashion, Mark Weber.

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<v Speaker 2>Mark Weber very interesting. I absolutely have nothing to do,

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<v Speaker 2>but I don't have enough time to do it. And

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<v Speaker 2>yet this week was a week of reflection. The weather

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<v Speaker 2>turned nice for a minute. I sat up back, I

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<v Speaker 2>looked at the trees. I looked at the sky. I

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<v Speaker 2>looked out at the water. What a wonderful life. How

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<v Speaker 2>great it is to finally have spring and summer these times. Generally,

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<v Speaker 2>when I'm reflecting, I think about how often I think

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<v Speaker 2>about how those cartoons that you see in the newspapers

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<v Speaker 2>where they have the little clouds over the person's head

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<v Speaker 2>in the cartoon, and it's telling you what they're thinking. Well,

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<v Speaker 2>my cloud is empty right now. I got nothing to

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<v Speaker 2>think about, nothing to do, But I can't help but

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<v Speaker 2>reflect on things that caught my attention this week and

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<v Speaker 2>things that were impactful for me. I thought about second chances.

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<v Speaker 2>I think about, in fact, if you don't succeed, how

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<v Speaker 2>you have to never give up and keep trying. I

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<v Speaker 2>came across a quote this week. It's a Japanese proverb

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<v Speaker 2>fall seven times and stand up eight. For me, I

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<v Speaker 2>means think about doing those things that make the most sense,

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<v Speaker 2>never giving up, working towards the future, because that's where

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<v Speaker 2>I'll be spending my life, my time. Those of you

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<v Speaker 2>looking for lessons in life, maybe you'll find some here

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<v Speaker 2>on this show. Those of you striving for some common

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<v Speaker 2>sense and practical answers, maybe you'll find some here as well.

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<v Speaker 2>Those of you have nothing to do and just want

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<v Speaker 2>to be occupied. I might just be able to entertain you,

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<v Speaker 2>but I could ssure you this week was an interesting

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<v Speaker 2>week for me because you got me thinking. I have

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<v Speaker 2>some stories I want to tell, some funny, some er smart,

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<v Speaker 2>interesting stuff and just maybe, just maybe tonight this week,

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<v Speaker 2>Fall seven times, stand up eight just might be something

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<v Speaker 2>that you find helpful. Now, first up, I want to

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<v Speaker 2>talk about the subject of perseverance, keep going, never give up.

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<v Speaker 2>I want to talk about working through the tough times.

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<v Speaker 2>It is so easy to enjoy life, in this instance, particular,

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<v Speaker 2>to enjoy your job when everything's going well. It's fun

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<v Speaker 2>when nothing's in the way. You're getting the accolades, you're

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<v Speaker 2>doing well, you're getting the raises, you have power your position,

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<v Speaker 2>you're getting money, lucky, smart. It's easy to enjoy life

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<v Speaker 2>when everything going your way. But if you ask me

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<v Speaker 2>why have I had any measure of success? I would

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<v Speaker 2>tell you I didn't have a simple career from the

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<v Speaker 2>bottom to the top. It wasn't only about doing well

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<v Speaker 2>and being happy. I didn't have a straight line to winning,

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<v Speaker 2>no way. I had zigzags along the way. The boss

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<v Speaker 2>that I worked with, he had a straight line right

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<v Speaker 2>from the bottom to the top. When I think back

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<v Speaker 2>and look at where I am today and why I

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<v Speaker 2>had a measure of success, I often thought about the

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<v Speaker 2>American Dream speech that I would give to my people

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<v Speaker 2>that were listening. I often spoke to three hundred, five

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<v Speaker 2>hundred people on business and success, and of course America

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<v Speaker 2>is the land of opportunity. Of course you can do

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<v Speaker 2>well here if you put your mind to it. But

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<v Speaker 2>I always ended up focusing on talking through the tough times. Yes,

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<v Speaker 2>work smart, be curious, that's the plan. But what about

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<v Speaker 2>the bad times? As I said, I didn't have it easy.

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<v Speaker 2>I had so many disappointments. And it was at those

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<v Speaker 2>times when I reached the bottom where things were at

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<v Speaker 2>the worst and Pointswood just didn't work out. I came

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<v Speaker 2>across a quote that became important to me. It was

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<v Speaker 2>from General George Patten, where he said, it isn't how

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<v Speaker 2>far you fall, it's how high you bounce back. And

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<v Speaker 2>here I am in the radio talking to you. It's

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<v Speaker 2>not because I was smart or not because I was

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<v Speaker 2>more talented. It really came down to how I behaved

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<v Speaker 2>when I was not doing well and I was disappointed.

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<v Speaker 2>We all have disappointments. Nobody has a life without disappointments.

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<v Speaker 2>I had so many, but each and every time I

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<v Speaker 2>had a problem, I had the wherewithal to sit down

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<v Speaker 2>and think about what went wrong. I might tell you

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<v Speaker 2>that many of my issues were self inflicted, opening my

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<v Speaker 2>big mouth at the wrong time, maybe not being prepared,

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<v Speaker 2>maybe being a wise guy, maybe not thinking about the

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<v Speaker 2>big picture, maybe not understanding that the company came first,

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<v Speaker 2>not me. But for whatever the reason, it could have

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<v Speaker 2>been the girl or guy sitting next to me. They

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<v Speaker 2>got the promotion I wanted. I did get the raise

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<v Speaker 2>I thought I was entitled to or I deserve. Nothing matters.

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<v Speaker 2>What matters is what you do with your setback. Do

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<v Speaker 2>you get angry withdraw behave poorly or do you pick

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<v Speaker 2>yourself up and say, what could I have done better?

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<v Speaker 2>It's important to remember to apply yourself. You could do

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<v Speaker 2>much anything you want. But I will tell you I'm

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<v Speaker 2>not one of those guys to tell you to find

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<v Speaker 2>something you're passionate about and chase it. No passion, that's

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<v Speaker 2>just something else, and that's another story for another time.

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<v Speaker 2>You have to find something that you're good at, perhaps

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<v Speaker 2>be great at, get behind it, and do everything you

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<v Speaker 2>can to be successful. For me, back to disappointments, I

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<v Speaker 2>had so many. Do you wear them on your sleep

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<v Speaker 2>or do you sit down and think about where you

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<v Speaker 2>went wrong? I would think about what I could have

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<v Speaker 2>done better. I would think about how to improve myself.

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<v Speaker 2>I would let this disappointment build into ugly character. In

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<v Speaker 2>no way, I was improved. I would improve and improve.

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<v Speaker 2>How you present yourself at tough times matters. When your

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<v Speaker 2>boss those you're let down, that could be the defining moment.

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<v Speaker 2>That's when I raised up to my highest level. I

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<v Speaker 2>thought about George Patton bounced back, and I pushed back successfully.

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<v Speaker 2>At times I was respectful. I didn't get a raise,

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<v Speaker 2>asked why, but I always declared my loyalty. I always

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<v Speaker 2>promised to perform better. I never wore my disappointment on

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<v Speaker 2>my sleeves. Not me. I'm the motivated guy. I understand

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<v Speaker 2>everything I'm gonna do well. But I have a great

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<v Speaker 2>story to tell you. Back in the day, when I

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<v Speaker 2>first started out, maybe I was two years in. I

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<v Speaker 2>used to work for a guy who was terrible. But

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<v Speaker 2>before I go there, I had a mentor of mine.

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<v Speaker 2>His name was Robert J. Solomon, senior vice president of merchandising.

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<v Speaker 2>It turned out to be a great guy, and I'll

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<v Speaker 2>never forget meeting him in his office for the first time.

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<v Speaker 2>He had a tapestry behind his desk hanging on the wall,

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<v Speaker 2>and the tapestry said yeay. Though I walked through the

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<v Speaker 2>valley of the shadow of Death. I shall fear no

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<v Speaker 2>evil because I'm the meanest son of the bitch in

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<v Speaker 2>the valley. And I never forgot it. And the story

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<v Speaker 2>goes on. I was working at van Usen. I remembered

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<v Speaker 2>that sign behind him. But unlike him, I met the

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<v Speaker 2>meanest son of bitch in the valley. I was working

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<v Speaker 2>for him. Should I mention his name, you know what,

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<v Speaker 2>I'll tell you his last name. I won't tell you

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<v Speaker 2>his first name. His name was Bitna. And this guy,

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<v Speaker 2>Bittana was a jerk. He was just impossible. He didn't

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<v Speaker 2>like anyone. No one liked him. He was just mean.

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<v Speaker 2>I'm pleasant guy. He didn't like anyone who work for him,

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<v Speaker 2>and he certainly didn't like anyone ahead of him. Oh

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<v Speaker 2>he showed them respect, but all he was thinking about

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<v Speaker 2>is getting them out. He was smart, he was capable.

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<v Speaker 2>He came out of sales and he was really really

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<v Speaker 2>a tough, driven seller and he could sell. But mean.

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<v Speaker 2>He didn't care about people's time. He didn't care about

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<v Speaker 2>making them wait. He didn't care about working nights or

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<v Speaker 2>on the weekends. And he expected you all to do

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<v Speaker 2>the same. And by the way, that wasn't the company's culture.

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<v Speaker 2>I can't explain it. Really. He was just unpleasant and

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<v Speaker 2>I was his direct report. I was his senior guy,

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<v Speaker 2>and I was there to do his bidding. Now, the

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<v Speaker 2>good news is it was good at what I did,

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<v Speaker 2>so it wasn't questioning me. He respected me. He didn't

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<v Speaker 2>necessarily like me or anyone, but when you spoke to me,

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<v Speaker 2>he no question. He respected me. There were things to

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<v Speaker 2>learn from him. I would tell you that because he

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<v Speaker 2>came from sales, I wanted a seller. But I was

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<v Speaker 2>able to put up with him because as I did,

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<v Speaker 2>I could take the pain. It wasn't okay that nobody

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<v Speaker 2>liked him. I mean, everybody respected what it was capable of,

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<v Speaker 2>but he knew everybody disliked him. I was lucky enough,

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<v Speaker 2>and I'll say lucky with it grain of salt. When

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<v Speaker 2>I go back in the day. He had a sales

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<v Speaker 2>convention at the time, and I remember getting up in

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<v Speaker 2>front of the entire sales division, one hundred salesmen, all

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<v Speaker 2>the merchants, all the designers, all the executives in the company,

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<v Speaker 2>and I would present my lines and I would do

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<v Speaker 2>a pretty good job of presenting, and I felt great

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<v Speaker 2>about it. And this particular salesman. He was in Washington, DC.

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<v Speaker 2>I don't ever forget the course of the events. There

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<v Speaker 2>were so many exciting things. I always loved these meetings.

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<v Speaker 2>I always liked to present. I got my ideas for

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<v Speaker 2>the next collection, and I would do it. One day,

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<v Speaker 2>I presented my ideas, and right after my presentation was done,

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<v Speaker 2>a vice president of operations came over to me and said, Hey, Mark,

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<v Speaker 2>would you like to have a drink with me later?

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<v Speaker 2>And when he said it, I said, well, okay, sure

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<v Speaker 2>tell me when you like to do it. And he said,

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<v Speaker 2>how about right now. I said okay, and I went

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<v Speaker 2>with him to booth in the coffee shop and I

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<v Speaker 2>sat right across from his name was Bud Gilbert, and

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<v Speaker 2>Bud was a very intellectual guy. He was very respected.

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<v Speaker 2>Everybody knew he made the trains run in time. And

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<v Speaker 2>Bud Gilbert sat down and the first question he asked

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<v Speaker 2>me was, Hi, Mark, how you doing? And I said

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<v Speaker 2>to myself, you know I'm going to give him the

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<v Speaker 2>standard answer. I'm really happy. I love the company. And

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<v Speaker 2>I know that's the right answer. Of course, because you're

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<v Speaker 2>talking to an office in the company. You don't want

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<v Speaker 2>to hear about your problems. So he looked at me

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<v Speaker 2>again and said, Mark, if it's okay with you, I'm

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<v Speaker 2>going to ask you the same question. How are you doing? Mark?

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<v Speaker 2>And now I know this is not an ordinary conversation.

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<v Speaker 2>And as the story went on, he looked at me.

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<v Speaker 2>I said, mister Gilbert, you know, as I said, it

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<v Speaker 2>is a great company. I'm learning every day. I'm doing great.

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<v Speaker 2>And he got quiet and he said, let me try

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<v Speaker 2>this another way. He said, Mark, I know you're working Forbidden.

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<v Speaker 2>How's it working for him? Now I'm quiet, and I

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<v Speaker 2>realize this is not an ordinary conversation. Where is this going.

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<v Speaker 2>I'm a young guy. I don't know where it's going.

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<v Speaker 2>And I said, well, he's a very smart guy. He's

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<v Speaker 2>a tough guy. He's demanding. But I'm doing fine. I

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<v Speaker 2>could deal with this. And then he looked at me

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<v Speaker 2>and he said, look, Mark, you said the right word.

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<v Speaker 2>They'd deal with it. Everyone in this company knows how

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<v Speaker 2>difficult Bittner is to work for. Everybody knows how difficult

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<v Speaker 2>it is for you to work for Bittner. Everybody knows

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<v Speaker 2>you're struggling to be genuine and to get through it.

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<v Speaker 2>And everybody knows how impressive you are for being able

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<v Speaker 2>to do that. And he said to me, Mark, not

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<v Speaker 2>every course is easy. Not everyone you'll work for will

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<v Speaker 2>be like guys like me, or guys like Robert Solomon,

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<v Speaker 2>or guys like Stangellette, or honest to goodness geniuses, people

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<v Speaker 2>that care about people. Not everyone's like that. What separates

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<v Speaker 2>the men from the let's see, I want to say

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<v Speaker 2>that it separates the winners from the sorry people are

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<v Speaker 2>the ones that can put up with the difficulty and

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<v Speaker 2>work through the tough times. You're having a tough time,

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<v Speaker 2>whether you say it or not. And I looked at him.

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<v Speaker 2>I didn't correct him. He said, we respect you for that,

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<v Speaker 2>We appreciate you for that, and it isn't going unnoticed

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<v Speaker 2>now here. I am two years in, not more than

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<v Speaker 2>a clerk being called out by the senior vice president

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<v Speaker 2>and telling me that they understand that hard work and

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<v Speaker 2>perseverance and working through the tough times is important. Interestingly enough,

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<v Speaker 2>I ended up doing something that most people don't realize.

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<v Speaker 2>I left van Usen. If you look at my track record,

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<v Speaker 2>there's no mention that I left van Usen after three

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<v Speaker 2>years to go work at the Capitol Marker shirt company.

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<v Speaker 2>It wasn't because of Bittnes. As they pointed out, he

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<v Speaker 2>was long gone. He moved on to somewhere else in

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<v Speaker 2>the coming to make someone else miserable until such time.

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<v Speaker 2>A couple of years later, he burnt himself out and

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<v Speaker 2>he was no longer part of the company. And Bud

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<v Speaker 2>Gilbert was right. I worked through him, and I did well.

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<v Speaker 2>But I was reflecting on I'd just gotten the mail

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<v Speaker 2>and noticed that one of my favorite authors a new

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<v Speaker 2>book came out, or I want to buy the book.

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<v Speaker 2>I read all the time. There is never a time

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<v Speaker 2>that I'm not reading something, either books, magazines, something to

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<v Speaker 2>make myself better. But I also read for escapism, and

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<v Speaker 2>I have been following an author called Stuart Woods. There's

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<v Speaker 2>a collection of books about a guy named Well, before

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<v Speaker 2>I tell you his name, i'll tell you the story. Anyway.

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<v Speaker 2>My friend, my closest friend at the time, whose name

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<v Speaker 2>was Bill Montooth. Whenever we go out to dinner, we'll

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<v Speaker 2>never make reservations for golf, whatever you do. He would

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<v Speaker 2>put his name in his Stone Barrington. I'd say to him,

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<v Speaker 2>where'd you come up with that? He says, Hey, it's

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<v Speaker 2>my alter ego. I'm Stone Barrington. I said, okay, you

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<v Speaker 2>want me to call your Stone no So I would

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<v Speaker 2>go out and everywhere I go Stone Barrington. One day,

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<v Speaker 2>I'm traveling, I'm at the airport, I don't have a

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<v Speaker 2>book to read, and I start looking for the books.

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<v Speaker 2>And I'm currently current on all the new espionage, knowledge

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<v Speaker 2>and mystery novels. I have them all, and I'm looking

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<v Speaker 2>and I see Stuart Woods and the title intrigued me.

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<v Speaker 2>I don't remember it was, and I pick it up

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<v Speaker 2>and I read the headline. Another Stone Barrington level, another

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<v Speaker 2>Stone Barrington novel right then and there I called my

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<v Speaker 2>friend Bill. I said, Stone Barrington, Stuart Woods, and he

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<v Speaker 2>starts to lift. Yeah. It turns out the Stone Barrington

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<v Speaker 2>character someone I like. I've read sixty six of the books,

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<v Speaker 2>and I'm reflecting now. I went out to dinner the

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<v Speaker 2>other day and Stone Barrington and his Paladino Barchetti was

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<v Speaker 2>in the book The Commission of the Police in New York,

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<v Speaker 2>eating Elaine's restaurant. And it turns out Elaine died and

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<v Speaker 2>the restaurant either closed or it's not the same. And

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<v Speaker 2>Stone and his friend moved to Patroon, and it got

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<v Speaker 2>me thinking about my days a Capitol Marker's Shirt Company.

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<v Speaker 2>See what happened was is I had a friend in

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<v Speaker 2>the button business who's the president of a large button company,

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<v Speaker 2>and he came to me one day, it's in the market.

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<v Speaker 2>You have to leave the company. So what do you

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<v Speaker 2>mean I have to leave the company? He says, you're

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<v Speaker 2>not making enough money and you can't expect to work

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<v Speaker 2>for the same company your whole life. I said, I'm

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<v Speaker 2>working for van Us and they're treating me well. I

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00:15:26.240 --> 00:15:28.320
<v Speaker 2>love it here. I'm not leaving. He says, yes you are,

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<v Speaker 2>and if you don't leave, you're at least going to

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<v Speaker 2>take this interview. And he explained to me that Capitol

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<v Speaker 2>Marker's Shirt Company was a one hundred and fifty million

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<v Speaker 2>dollars shirt company, a big company by private stands, and

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<v Speaker 2>not compared to PVH. It was a few hundred million

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<v Speaker 2>in a publicly traded company, say had five hundred million.

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<v Speaker 2>But it's a great company. Mark They're looking for someone

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<v Speaker 2>just like you. And what is just like you mean?

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<v Speaker 2>He said, you come from the big brands, you have

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<v Speaker 2>a vision, your greater product development. They in the private

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<v Speaker 2>label business and anytime they'll walk into Macy's Macy's won't

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<v Speaker 2>treat them with the same degree of respects they'll treat

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<v Speaker 2>van Usen because van Usen is known for innovations and

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<v Speaker 2>new ideas. So if they could bring in designers who

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00:16:10.879 --> 00:16:13.679
<v Speaker 2>could bring innovation and new ideas and talk about what

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00:16:13.799 --> 00:16:16.279
<v Speaker 2>the brands would be doing, they would get a higher

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00:16:16.360 --> 00:16:18.639
<v Speaker 2>degree of respect and they would pay you a lot

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<v Speaker 2>more money than you're making. Mark, can I ask you

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<v Speaker 2>what you're making? I said, you could ask, I'm not

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<v Speaker 2>telling you, Well, this company's going to pay you fifty

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<v Speaker 2>five thousand dollars. That put a silence in me. Why

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<v Speaker 2>Because I was making eighteen thousand dollars and I just

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00:16:32.519 --> 00:16:35.559
<v Speaker 2>got a large raise to go from eighteen to fifty

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00:16:35.639 --> 00:16:38.200
<v Speaker 2>five thousand overnight. I had no choice but to go

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00:16:38.320 --> 00:16:40.759
<v Speaker 2>and listen. And I looked at him. I said, that's

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00:16:40.799 --> 00:16:42.600
<v Speaker 2>more money than I'm making. He says, I know it is.

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<v Speaker 2>That's enough money that'll change the course and tenure of

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<v Speaker 2>your career, because if you get that much money now,

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00:16:49.480 --> 00:16:52.279
<v Speaker 2>everything you do after that will be layered on top

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00:16:52.320 --> 00:16:54.600
<v Speaker 2>of the fifty five thousand. You'll be ahead of all

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00:16:54.639 --> 00:16:57.039
<v Speaker 2>your peers. You won't even have to think about money.

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<v Speaker 2>You'll think about doing your job. I went, I met

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<v Speaker 2>with them, I decided to join the company. I left.

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<v Speaker 2>I'll never forget. Going to my best friend at the time, BJK,

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<v Speaker 2>who was my boss thirty years, I told him I'm

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00:17:08.920 --> 00:17:11.960
<v Speaker 2>leave and he said, you're crazy. I said, listen, it's

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00:17:11.960 --> 00:17:15.599
<v Speaker 2>a lot of money, an opportunity to learn new things,

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00:17:15.839 --> 00:17:18.839
<v Speaker 2>an opportunity for work for another company, and when I

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00:17:18.960 --> 00:17:21.279
<v Speaker 2>come back here, I'll be better for it is. What

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<v Speaker 2>do you mean come back? He said, I'm not leaving

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<v Speaker 2>to leave. I'm going for the money. I'm going to

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00:17:25.920 --> 00:17:29.079
<v Speaker 2>leave there however long I stay, I'm coming back. What

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00:17:29.279 --> 00:17:31.039
<v Speaker 2>makes you think you're going to come back in more?

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<v Speaker 2>Because you're going to get me back in how do

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<v Speaker 2>you know? And I was quiet. He said, never mind,

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00:17:36.079 --> 00:17:38.599
<v Speaker 2>you can come back. Let's leave in the right way.

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<v Speaker 2>I ended up resigning from my actual boss at the time,

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<v Speaker 2>a guy named John, and I told him I was leaving.

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<v Speaker 2>He begged me to say. I said, look, I'm leaving.

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<v Speaker 2>I've made up my mind. I love it here. I'll

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<v Speaker 2>come back, John, I'll come back and work for you.

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<v Speaker 2>It's just got to give me some time. I am

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<v Speaker 2>never going to be leaving van Usen, but I have

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<v Speaker 2>to do it now, and I left and I made

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<v Speaker 2>fifty five. Thus and then, by the way, at the time,

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<v Speaker 2>my friend Bruce, who was making thirty couldn't believe I

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<v Speaker 2>was making fifty five and he was a VP and

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00:18:06.519 --> 00:18:08.519
<v Speaker 2>I wasn't. And sure enough I went and it was

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<v Speaker 2>true after that, money was never a thing for me

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00:18:11.279 --> 00:18:13.920
<v Speaker 2>because I was always ahead of the game. So I

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00:18:14.079 --> 00:18:17.039
<v Speaker 2>get there and the reality was it was more like

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<v Speaker 2>off Broadway than Broadway. Great company, proud people. They did

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00:18:21.960 --> 00:18:24.400
<v Speaker 2>a great job. But I never felt I was in

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<v Speaker 2>the big leagues. I always felt I was a step down,

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<v Speaker 2>and I wanted to be in the big leagues. And

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<v Speaker 2>after three months I decided I learned a lot. I

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00:18:33.880 --> 00:18:36.480
<v Speaker 2>had two bosses, one who I admired, one who I didn't.

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<v Speaker 2>And I ended up wanting to come back. And sure

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<v Speaker 2>enough I went and asked my friend to meet me.

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<v Speaker 2>I want to come back to the company. See, so

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<v Speaker 2>let's have dinner, you, me and his wife, who I

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00:18:48.400 --> 00:18:52.359
<v Speaker 2>knew very well. We'll have dinner and let's go to Patroon. Now,

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<v Speaker 2>why am I telling you all?

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<v Speaker 3>This?

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<v Speaker 2>Was the new STUDT Woods book just came back. I

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<v Speaker 2>thought about Patroon looking out of the backyard, thinking about

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<v Speaker 2>the past, thinking about the future. Here I am a patroon,

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00:19:02.960 --> 00:19:05.119
<v Speaker 2>and I thought about this story. So I went in

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<v Speaker 2>at the time, and I think I've told this to

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<v Speaker 2>some of you before, but it's a great lesson. I

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<v Speaker 2>resigned from a gentleman named Don Cooper. Donald Cooper one

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<v Speaker 2>of the founders of Capital Mercury. He was a prestigious guy,

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00:19:16.640 --> 00:19:19.279
<v Speaker 2>walked around a suit, jacket and tie. When he was

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<v Speaker 2>in his office, he hung the jacket on the back

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<v Speaker 2>of his chair. Always elegant, A gentleman, a real man

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<v Speaker 2>of class. And I walked in and I had asked

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<v Speaker 2>the secretary and I have a meeting, and they set

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<v Speaker 2>me up and I went to see sat down. I

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00:19:32.359 --> 00:19:34.640
<v Speaker 2>walked in and he said, sit down, walk what's up? Said,

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<v Speaker 2>you know, I have to tell you how much I

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<v Speaker 2>love working here, how much I respect you and the team,

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<v Speaker 2>but I am sorry to say that I'm leaving the company.

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<v Speaker 2>And he looked at me and he got up from

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<v Speaker 2>behind his desk walked to me. I stood up. He

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<v Speaker 2>shook my hand. He took my hand in both his hands.

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<v Speaker 2>He shook my hand, looked at me and said, I

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00:19:54.799 --> 00:19:58.599
<v Speaker 2>can't tell you how happy. I am for you. If

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00:19:58.640 --> 00:20:01.079
<v Speaker 2>you're leaving, I know it's for a good reason. We

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00:20:01.400 --> 00:20:04.480
<v Speaker 2>really like you. Here he went, shook my hand, went

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00:20:04.559 --> 00:20:07.200
<v Speaker 2>back to his desk and sat down, and then he

380
00:20:07.279 --> 00:20:11.079
<v Speaker 2>looked at me and he said, and I quote, what

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<v Speaker 2>will it take to keep you? And I never forgot that,

382
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<v Speaker 2>in fact, the entirety of my career, when anyone resigned

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<v Speaker 2>from a company that I was working for, if they

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00:20:21.519 --> 00:20:24.640
<v Speaker 2>wanted to resign and I wanted them to stay, I

385
00:20:24.759 --> 00:20:28.400
<v Speaker 2>did exactly what Donald Cooper did. I got up, shook

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<v Speaker 2>the hand, wished him luck, sat down behind the desk,

387
00:20:31.480 --> 00:20:33.920
<v Speaker 2>and told them I'd love you to say what can

388
00:20:34.000 --> 00:20:37.640
<v Speaker 2>I do? Sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't. So

389
00:20:37.799 --> 00:20:40.079
<v Speaker 2>the point of this is on reflection. This week, I

390
00:20:40.160 --> 00:20:43.119
<v Speaker 2>thought about how you're supposed to behave. I thought about

391
00:20:43.160 --> 00:20:47.319
<v Speaker 2>my career. I thought about how I dealt with the

392
00:20:47.400 --> 00:20:50.039
<v Speaker 2>difficult times. By the way, I met my friend at

393
00:20:50.039 --> 00:20:53.519
<v Speaker 2>Patroon's and there we negotiated my comeback to the company

394
00:20:53.880 --> 00:20:57.039
<v Speaker 2>for more money than I was making. Go figure. But

395
00:20:57.200 --> 00:21:01.240
<v Speaker 2>that is a backdrop. I'm reflecting this week and reminding

396
00:21:01.359 --> 00:21:04.480
<v Speaker 2>you that you fall seven times, you get up eight

397
00:21:04.920 --> 00:21:09.759
<v Speaker 2>back in a moment, always in fashion than a lifetime

398
00:21:09.839 --> 00:21:13.319
<v Speaker 2>of my career building the van Usen brand, and I

399
00:21:13.400 --> 00:21:16.519
<v Speaker 2>am so pleased that they're back with us now talking

400
00:21:16.759 --> 00:21:21.279
<v Speaker 2>about suits, men were dressing up again and it's become

401
00:21:21.440 --> 00:21:23.839
<v Speaker 2>cool to wear a suit. Suits can be won on

402
00:21:24.039 --> 00:21:27.920
<v Speaker 2>multipleccasions in multiple ways. You could wear a suit formally

403
00:21:28.000 --> 00:21:30.160
<v Speaker 2>to go out at night or to an event, to

404
00:21:30.240 --> 00:21:32.440
<v Speaker 2>wear a suit to the office with or without a tie.

405
00:21:33.039 --> 00:21:36.160
<v Speaker 2>If you look closely, now fashion trends, suits are being

406
00:21:36.200 --> 00:21:40.519
<v Speaker 2>worn with turtlenecks or mark next. The choices are endless

407
00:21:41.000 --> 00:21:44.759
<v Speaker 2>and every one of them looks right. You could really

408
00:21:44.960 --> 00:21:48.400
<v Speaker 2>really look the part. I believe that in packaging yourself

409
00:21:48.440 --> 00:21:51.319
<v Speaker 2>is as important does the products you package, and wearing

410
00:21:51.359 --> 00:21:53.880
<v Speaker 2>a suit is one of those things that make men

411
00:21:54.319 --> 00:21:57.799
<v Speaker 2>look their best. Then Using invented a new idea. It's

412
00:21:57.880 --> 00:22:02.400
<v Speaker 2>called the cool Flex suit. It's been engineered with stretch technology,

413
00:22:02.799 --> 00:22:05.960
<v Speaker 2>giving you the most comfortable fit and mobility. It's wrinkle

414
00:22:06.039 --> 00:22:09.799
<v Speaker 2>resistant fabric, it's cool moisture wiki. It makes it perfect

415
00:22:09.880 --> 00:22:13.200
<v Speaker 2>for all occasions. As we discussed just now, this new

416
00:22:13.359 --> 00:22:17.039
<v Speaker 2>style of looking shop while feeling cool and comfortable is

417
00:22:17.200 --> 00:22:20.359
<v Speaker 2>amazing and I am so excited that the van Using

418
00:22:20.480 --> 00:22:24.640
<v Speaker 2>company is involved in this new technology and is embracing

419
00:22:25.079 --> 00:22:28.000
<v Speaker 2>the whole idea of dressing up. Let's not forget van

420
00:22:28.039 --> 00:22:31.039
<v Speaker 2>Using made its name with dress shirts. It's only proper

421
00:22:31.160 --> 00:22:34.720
<v Speaker 2>that the soup business follows strongly in its way. You

422
00:22:34.799 --> 00:22:37.920
<v Speaker 2>can find van Using cool flex men's stretch suits at

423
00:22:37.960 --> 00:22:43.079
<v Speaker 2>jcpenny are online at jcpenny dot com. Guys, they're great.

424
00:22:43.200 --> 00:22:45.920
<v Speaker 2>You should go look at them. My favorite brand has

425
00:22:46.000 --> 00:22:49.519
<v Speaker 2>always been Izod. My company at one time bought that brand.

426
00:22:49.680 --> 00:22:51.920
<v Speaker 2>The CEO of the company handed it to me and said,

427
00:22:51.960 --> 00:22:54.759
<v Speaker 2>you better make it work. And I put everything in

428
00:22:55.559 --> 00:22:57.920
<v Speaker 2>my career to make Eyesod work and I fell in

429
00:22:57.960 --> 00:23:00.880
<v Speaker 2>love with that brand, and to this day it is

430
00:23:01.640 --> 00:23:04.680
<v Speaker 2>one of the most exciting endeavors I've ever gotten involved with.

431
00:23:05.240 --> 00:23:10.720
<v Speaker 2>Isod is an incredibly strong golf brand. If you play golf,

432
00:23:11.440 --> 00:23:13.960
<v Speaker 2>if you play tennis for that matter. They make a

433
00:23:14.200 --> 00:23:20.039
<v Speaker 2>great polo shirts. I mean great. They're fit perfect. The

434
00:23:20.160 --> 00:23:24.319
<v Speaker 2>material is unique because it's a PK fabric that waffle leave,

435
00:23:24.400 --> 00:23:27.319
<v Speaker 2>you see, and it's made of a blend of cotton

436
00:23:27.400 --> 00:23:31.920
<v Speaker 2>and microfiber that allows you to stretch. And very often

437
00:23:32.039 --> 00:23:38.000
<v Speaker 2>they are treated with solar protection as well, so they stretch.

438
00:23:38.319 --> 00:23:41.319
<v Speaker 2>They're comfortable and they breathe well. And one thing about

439
00:23:41.319 --> 00:23:43.920
<v Speaker 2>ISOD they always fit. They'll never tug on you. You

440
00:23:44.039 --> 00:23:46.119
<v Speaker 2>put it in your waist that they'll fit you great.

441
00:23:46.519 --> 00:23:50.519
<v Speaker 2>The colors, patterns are sensational. Now I will also tell

442
00:23:50.519 --> 00:23:53.839
<v Speaker 2>you ISOT makes great shorts and great golf bands. You're

443
00:23:53.880 --> 00:23:55.519
<v Speaker 2>a golf friend. You want to look good. You don't

444
00:23:55.680 --> 00:23:58.039
<v Speaker 2>have to think about how do I look. You want

445
00:23:58.079 --> 00:24:01.200
<v Speaker 2>to think about how you play, not how you ISZOD

446
00:24:01.480 --> 00:24:03.759
<v Speaker 2>is the brand for you. I know I was there

447
00:24:03.839 --> 00:24:07.119
<v Speaker 2>when it was created. The strategy behind that brand is brilliant.

448
00:24:07.200 --> 00:24:09.759
<v Speaker 2>It's one of my favorite brands. While I talk about it,

449
00:24:09.759 --> 00:24:12.759
<v Speaker 2>I should tell you about the men's sportswear. ISOD wasn't

450
00:24:12.880 --> 00:24:15.400
<v Speaker 2>enough being a golf brand. It wasn't enough being just

451
00:24:15.599 --> 00:24:20.000
<v Speaker 2>great polo shirts with logos, without logos. Incredible brand and

452
00:24:20.119 --> 00:24:25.640
<v Speaker 2>story and history. ISOD makes salt weather programs. They have

453
00:24:26.240 --> 00:24:32.440
<v Speaker 2>great printed woven shirts, short sleeves. They look excellent with colors,

454
00:24:32.960 --> 00:24:36.160
<v Speaker 2>excellent with shorts, excellent with cotton pants, of which they

455
00:24:36.240 --> 00:24:39.880
<v Speaker 2>also make. This whole salt order relaxed line from ISAD,

456
00:24:40.200 --> 00:24:46.160
<v Speaker 2>whether it be fleece, cotton sweaters, knit polos, woven shirts,

457
00:24:46.480 --> 00:24:49.759
<v Speaker 2>and pants of a range of colors and fabrics that

458
00:24:49.839 --> 00:24:51.960
<v Speaker 2>are perfect for a guy wants to go casually in

459
00:24:52.000 --> 00:24:55.240
<v Speaker 2>the spring and summer of this year. And here's the thing,

460
00:24:56.079 --> 00:25:03.319
<v Speaker 2>isod is affordable. Every One listening to me talk about

461
00:25:03.359 --> 00:25:06.720
<v Speaker 2>this brand can afford to buy it and know that

462
00:25:06.799 --> 00:25:08.640
<v Speaker 2>there are a lot of other brands that also have

463
00:25:08.960 --> 00:25:11.799
<v Speaker 2>a look like ISID. Although I don't believe it's fun

464
00:25:12.559 --> 00:25:15.200
<v Speaker 2>as Eyaada is, the brand has a lot of energy

465
00:25:15.279 --> 00:25:18.319
<v Speaker 2>in it, but at the price points no one can compete.

466
00:25:19.119 --> 00:25:22.839
<v Speaker 2>You can find eyaa at You're leading retails and online

467
00:25:22.960 --> 00:25:26.200
<v Speaker 2>at ion dot com. Talk to you, lady guys. I

468
00:25:26.319 --> 00:25:31.200
<v Speaker 2>wish you are very happy springing summer, and I help

469
00:25:31.279 --> 00:25:33.119
<v Speaker 2>you by telling you if you were eya on, You're

470
00:25:33.119 --> 00:25:33.720
<v Speaker 2>gonna look great.

471
00:25:34.599 --> 00:25:36.759
<v Speaker 1>Welcome back to it always in fashion.

472
00:25:37.079 --> 00:25:41.599
<v Speaker 2>Here's your host, Mark Webber. I'm in a reflecting mood tonight.

473
00:25:41.680 --> 00:25:45.119
<v Speaker 2>I've been in a reflecting mood this week. Finally June,

474
00:25:45.240 --> 00:25:48.319
<v Speaker 2>after losing April and May and having almost no sunshine

475
00:25:49.119 --> 00:25:51.680
<v Speaker 2>in New York, this has been terrible. June has started

476
00:25:51.720 --> 00:25:54.680
<v Speaker 2>out pretty and I've been reflecting sitting out the back

477
00:25:54.720 --> 00:25:57.319
<v Speaker 2>of my house looking at the sky, the grass, whatever,

478
00:25:57.519 --> 00:26:01.720
<v Speaker 2>I'm happy these beautiful sundays having me think about my

479
00:26:01.839 --> 00:26:06.480
<v Speaker 2>life experiences. I'm looking to the future. I'm enthusiastic, and

480
00:26:06.599 --> 00:26:10.200
<v Speaker 2>yet I'm sad at the same time. I loved working.

481
00:26:10.359 --> 00:26:12.759
<v Speaker 2>I miss it, but I tell you I love not

482
00:26:12.920 --> 00:26:16.160
<v Speaker 2>working even more now. Yes, I'm on the radio and podcast,

483
00:26:16.240 --> 00:26:19.119
<v Speaker 2>and somebody could say that's work, But I'm not in

484
00:26:19.240 --> 00:26:20.720
<v Speaker 2>it for the money. I'm in it for the joy

485
00:26:20.799 --> 00:26:24.400
<v Speaker 2>of talking and telling my stories and hopefully making everyone

486
00:26:24.440 --> 00:26:27.000
<v Speaker 2>a little happier and perhaps a little smarter by the

487
00:26:27.119 --> 00:26:31.359
<v Speaker 2>benefit of learning from my experiences. And at the moment,

488
00:26:31.960 --> 00:26:36.640
<v Speaker 2>I'm guilty, I'm a co conspirator. I'm no better. I

489
00:26:36.720 --> 00:26:40.079
<v Speaker 2>should have known better. I should have asked you sure

490
00:26:40.160 --> 00:26:44.400
<v Speaker 2>we should be doing this. Let's hold that thought. For

491
00:26:44.519 --> 00:26:46.200
<v Speaker 2>those of you who want to hear this, you're going

492
00:26:46.240 --> 00:26:49.160
<v Speaker 2>to be excited. Those of you don't, you won't be.

493
00:26:49.279 --> 00:26:52.880
<v Speaker 2>But the truth is the truth. Trump is right. We

494
00:26:53.079 --> 00:26:59.519
<v Speaker 2>need change tariffs. Tariffs are offering us a different angle,

495
00:27:00.119 --> 00:27:05.039
<v Speaker 2>and they're important. I grew up in a great manufacturing company.

496
00:27:06.240 --> 00:27:09.880
<v Speaker 2>I spend as much time in factories walking factory floors

497
00:27:10.200 --> 00:27:13.400
<v Speaker 2>as I spent time in my favorite restaurants. I was

498
00:27:13.599 --> 00:27:18.279
<v Speaker 2>a manufacturer. I knew manufacturing, and because of that, I

499
00:27:18.359 --> 00:27:22.599
<v Speaker 2>grew up in an environment obsessed with quality. You know,

500
00:27:22.680 --> 00:27:25.960
<v Speaker 2>it's one thing to buy products overseas and hand them

501
00:27:26.000 --> 00:27:29.839
<v Speaker 2>a sample and say make this for me. It's another

502
00:27:29.960 --> 00:27:32.359
<v Speaker 2>thing to hand them a product that you made in

503
00:27:32.480 --> 00:27:34.920
<v Speaker 2>your own factory and said, I want to start importing.

504
00:27:35.400 --> 00:27:38.160
<v Speaker 2>Here's a shirt. This is the linings I want you

505
00:27:38.279 --> 00:27:41.240
<v Speaker 2>to use. This is the level of heat and pressure

506
00:27:41.519 --> 00:27:43.240
<v Speaker 2>I want you to put on the collar when you're

507
00:27:43.279 --> 00:27:46.960
<v Speaker 2>top fusing it. This is the number of stitches per inch.

508
00:27:47.119 --> 00:27:49.519
<v Speaker 2>I want you to sew on my side seams and

509
00:27:49.640 --> 00:27:52.880
<v Speaker 2>on my pockets in front of the shirt. These are

510
00:27:52.920 --> 00:27:55.920
<v Speaker 2>the buttons you must use. I will accept no other

511
00:27:56.200 --> 00:27:59.119
<v Speaker 2>find them. This is the packaging I need you to use.

512
00:27:59.400 --> 00:28:03.039
<v Speaker 2>And why because I came from a company and an

513
00:28:03.240 --> 00:28:07.000
<v Speaker 2>environment that was obsessed with quality. I was at the

514
00:28:07.119 --> 00:28:10.599
<v Speaker 2>van Us and Shirt Company, the second largest shirt company

515
00:28:10.640 --> 00:28:14.279
<v Speaker 2>in the United States, perhaps the world. It's also perhaps

516
00:28:14.400 --> 00:28:17.759
<v Speaker 2>not the case because who knew who makes a billion

517
00:28:17.880 --> 00:28:21.440
<v Speaker 2>shirts for a billion people in China every year, So

518
00:28:21.599 --> 00:28:24.119
<v Speaker 2>they may have had bigger shirt companies, but in the

519
00:28:24.200 --> 00:28:27.359
<v Speaker 2>branded world and the world of the West, were the

520
00:28:27.400 --> 00:28:31.559
<v Speaker 2>second largest shirt company in the world. On the subject

521
00:28:31.640 --> 00:28:35.079
<v Speaker 2>of China, Let's hold that for a second. When I

522
00:28:35.240 --> 00:28:39.599
<v Speaker 2>joined van Usen, we had ten factories making our shirts,

523
00:28:39.720 --> 00:28:43.279
<v Speaker 2>ten factories making millions of dozens of shirts. I mean,

524
00:28:43.319 --> 00:28:46.640
<v Speaker 2>it was pretty incredible. They're all in the South. I

525
00:28:46.759 --> 00:28:51.480
<v Speaker 2>remember names like Brinkley, Arkansas, Fort Payne, Alabama, Oazark, Alabama.

526
00:28:51.799 --> 00:28:54.799
<v Speaker 2>We had a warehouse in Chattanooga, Tennessee, and we did

527
00:28:54.920 --> 00:28:59.279
<v Speaker 2>have an exception. The key factory, the operations center for

528
00:28:59.319 --> 00:29:04.599
<v Speaker 2>the company was Potsville, Pennsylvania. Why potsvill Pennsylvania because Moses Phillips,

529
00:29:04.640 --> 00:29:07.160
<v Speaker 2>who started the Venues and Shirt company back in the

530
00:29:07.240 --> 00:29:11.079
<v Speaker 2>eighteen hundreds, lived in Potsville, Pennsylvania, and he started a

531
00:29:11.160 --> 00:29:14.279
<v Speaker 2>shirt factory. And his initial business in the shirt business

532
00:29:14.640 --> 00:29:17.480
<v Speaker 2>was when miners came out of the coal mines in Pennsylvania.

533
00:29:17.559 --> 00:29:20.200
<v Speaker 2>He came there with shirts and sold them clean shirts

534
00:29:20.400 --> 00:29:22.599
<v Speaker 2>that they could wear after they took their showers when

535
00:29:22.599 --> 00:29:25.240
<v Speaker 2>they got at home. And he began this business. He

536
00:29:25.319 --> 00:29:27.720
<v Speaker 2>spent a ton of money on advertising at the time.

537
00:29:28.119 --> 00:29:30.920
<v Speaker 2>His son Seymour in the fifties increased the level of

538
00:29:31.000 --> 00:29:33.680
<v Speaker 2>advertising in may Ven Neusland a national off not a

539
00:29:33.759 --> 00:29:38.359
<v Speaker 2>global brand. We also had a warehouse in School, cool Haven, Pennsylvania,

540
00:29:38.519 --> 00:29:41.920
<v Speaker 2>and I traveled to all these locations and I learned

541
00:29:42.160 --> 00:29:47.440
<v Speaker 2>about manufacturing. We were manufacturing, we knew product, we knew costs,

542
00:29:47.519 --> 00:29:53.400
<v Speaker 2>we understood efficiency. We weren't importers yet, but there was

543
00:29:54.359 --> 00:29:59.160
<v Speaker 2>a time where companies had to decide where they can

544
00:29:59.240 --> 00:30:03.839
<v Speaker 2>continue to be manufacturers or are they going to outsource

545
00:30:04.440 --> 00:30:07.519
<v Speaker 2>and give up all the manufacturing, which is where we

546
00:30:07.640 --> 00:30:11.759
<v Speaker 2>are as a country today. And I want to talk

547
00:30:11.839 --> 00:30:15.279
<v Speaker 2>about that a bit, you know. The first tip off

548
00:30:15.480 --> 00:30:20.839
<v Speaker 2>was see in the Obama administration. President Obama almost said

549
00:30:21.279 --> 00:30:25.240
<v Speaker 2>the right thing. If he listened, he would have known

550
00:30:25.319 --> 00:30:28.599
<v Speaker 2>there was something else afoot, that the situation we would

551
00:30:28.680 --> 00:30:32.599
<v Speaker 2>find ourselves in would be a sorry situation. He was

552
00:30:32.720 --> 00:30:34.920
<v Speaker 2>meeting with the then president of China. It wasn't she,

553
00:30:35.119 --> 00:30:38.319
<v Speaker 2>I don't remember. His name, could have been Ping. I'm sorry,

554
00:30:38.400 --> 00:30:42.559
<v Speaker 2>I don't remember his name, Xiaoujing Ping. Maybe I don't remember.

555
00:30:43.279 --> 00:30:45.480
<v Speaker 2>But they were having a conversation and it was in

556
00:30:45.559 --> 00:30:48.640
<v Speaker 2>front of the world. I don't remember if it was

557
00:30:48.720 --> 00:30:52.039
<v Speaker 2>live or I read it. And the President of China

558
00:30:52.200 --> 00:30:55.799
<v Speaker 2>asked President Obama what kept him awake at night, and

559
00:30:55.960 --> 00:30:59.519
<v Speaker 2>at the time, Obama said the proliferation of nuclear weapons

560
00:30:59.599 --> 00:31:02.559
<v Speaker 2>North Korea, you know whatever he was going on with,

561
00:31:02.920 --> 00:31:06.799
<v Speaker 2>he was worried about war and said and then President

562
00:31:06.839 --> 00:31:10.799
<v Speaker 2>Obama asked the Premier of China, what keeps you awake

563
00:31:10.839 --> 00:31:15.000
<v Speaker 2>at night? And he said, every year, I have to

564
00:31:15.119 --> 00:31:19.079
<v Speaker 2>find twenty million more new jobs for my people. Now,

565
00:31:19.160 --> 00:31:22.119
<v Speaker 2>it's interesting to note because China was backward. They're behind

566
00:31:22.160 --> 00:31:24.359
<v Speaker 2>the eight ball. They weren't the country you know today.

567
00:31:24.799 --> 00:31:28.319
<v Speaker 2>They weren't westernized, they weren't industrialized, not to the point

568
00:31:28.400 --> 00:31:31.640
<v Speaker 2>they are today. And the Premier of China recognized that

569
00:31:31.799 --> 00:31:35.519
<v Speaker 2>the future of China was developing jobs and developing industry.

570
00:31:36.240 --> 00:31:38.839
<v Speaker 2>Hold that thought. Let's go back to my days as

571
00:31:38.960 --> 00:31:42.839
<v Speaker 2>manufacturing in venues, and I was a vice president of shirts.

572
00:31:43.200 --> 00:31:45.279
<v Speaker 2>I worked for the president of the company. His name

573
00:31:45.400 --> 00:31:48.759
<v Speaker 2>was BJK my buddy for life and business. And we

574
00:31:48.880 --> 00:31:52.599
<v Speaker 2>worked for Larry Phillips, the grandson of Seymour Phillips, who

575
00:31:52.680 --> 00:31:55.799
<v Speaker 2>was the CEO of the company. And we knew that

576
00:31:56.000 --> 00:31:59.039
<v Speaker 2>imports were coming into play. We knew that our competitors

577
00:31:59.119 --> 00:32:02.079
<v Speaker 2>were importing. We knew that the price of our shirts

578
00:32:02.240 --> 00:32:05.079
<v Speaker 2>might be questionable in the long run, and we knew

579
00:32:05.119 --> 00:32:08.000
<v Speaker 2>we had to start importing to some degree or another.

580
00:32:08.160 --> 00:32:10.440
<v Speaker 2>Even if we didn't want to, we would be forced

581
00:32:10.480 --> 00:32:12.920
<v Speaker 2>to if our competitors did. Even if we didn't want to.

582
00:32:13.000 --> 00:32:15.839
<v Speaker 2>We knew that retailers like Macy's and bird Eyes and

583
00:32:15.880 --> 00:32:18.200
<v Speaker 2>all these retails in the country were starting to import.

584
00:32:18.519 --> 00:32:22.400
<v Speaker 2>They already began, but now they're accelerating. We had ten factories.

585
00:32:22.599 --> 00:32:26.400
<v Speaker 2>What to do. The history of the company was that

586
00:32:27.119 --> 00:32:30.519
<v Speaker 2>we would have the amount of manufacturing necessary in the

587
00:32:30.680 --> 00:32:36.319
<v Speaker 2>United States to survive the company during wartime, so if

588
00:32:36.400 --> 00:32:39.640
<v Speaker 2>there was war with the outside world, it wouldn't matter

589
00:32:39.759 --> 00:32:43.240
<v Speaker 2>to us. But the level is what is comfortable. So

590
00:32:43.400 --> 00:32:48.079
<v Speaker 2>Larry Phillips engaged KSA Kurt Salmon Associates. I don't even

591
00:32:48.079 --> 00:32:49.839
<v Speaker 2>know if they exist anymore, but they were one of

592
00:32:49.880 --> 00:32:53.519
<v Speaker 2>the premier consulting companies in the world. He engaged them

593
00:32:53.599 --> 00:32:57.680
<v Speaker 2>in a preliminary meeting to talk about how should we

594
00:32:57.839 --> 00:33:01.680
<v Speaker 2>determine comfort for the amount of manufacturing and the degree

595
00:33:01.839 --> 00:33:06.319
<v Speaker 2>of ownership of our own supply to live a comfortable

596
00:33:06.440 --> 00:33:10.000
<v Speaker 2>life to sustain the company in times of war. I

597
00:33:10.119 --> 00:33:13.200
<v Speaker 2>remember he called the CEO of KSA. I think his

598
00:33:13.400 --> 00:33:15.920
<v Speaker 2>name was David Cole. I'm only calling it out because

599
00:33:16.000 --> 00:33:20.240
<v Speaker 2>I'm at marvel my ability to recollect names and events

600
00:33:20.319 --> 00:33:23.680
<v Speaker 2>and places. There's a history in here of these companies

601
00:33:23.720 --> 00:33:26.279
<v Speaker 2>that I retained. So David Coley called them up and

602
00:33:26.359 --> 00:33:29.319
<v Speaker 2>we had a meeting in our boardroom and Larry articulated,

603
00:33:29.319 --> 00:33:31.519
<v Speaker 2>who I just said to you. We've been a manufacturing

604
00:33:31.599 --> 00:33:34.160
<v Speaker 2>our whole company, our whole lives. We know we have

605
00:33:34.279 --> 00:33:37.960
<v Speaker 2>to start importing. We believe there's opportunities outside the world.

606
00:33:38.200 --> 00:33:40.920
<v Speaker 2>We respect our manufacturing and made us who we are.

607
00:33:41.359 --> 00:33:43.079
<v Speaker 2>When we do what we do, we do it with

608
00:33:43.160 --> 00:33:45.920
<v Speaker 2>a level of expertise that no one else has, and

609
00:33:46.039 --> 00:33:51.359
<v Speaker 2>it's a core differentiator between our competition. When we talk

610
00:33:51.440 --> 00:33:54.000
<v Speaker 2>to retailers, we have the details on how to make

611
00:33:54.039 --> 00:33:57.680
<v Speaker 2>the finest quality from every element of it. And he

612
00:33:57.720 --> 00:33:59.759
<v Speaker 2>looked at David Bone and said, can you help me

613
00:34:00.240 --> 00:34:03.960
<v Speaker 2>determine a degree of comfort? Let's hold that thought for

614
00:34:04.039 --> 00:34:07.839
<v Speaker 2>a while. Okay, you live in New York City. Are

615
00:34:07.880 --> 00:34:12.159
<v Speaker 2>you comfortable walking down Sixth Avenue at five o'clock? Yeah?

616
00:34:12.320 --> 00:34:15.519
<v Speaker 2>I would say, how about seven o'clock? Sure, now it's

617
00:34:15.599 --> 00:34:17.519
<v Speaker 2>winter at eight o'clock. Do you feel safe in New

618
00:34:17.599 --> 00:34:19.199
<v Speaker 2>York at eight o'clock at night in the dark in

619
00:34:19.280 --> 00:34:22.880
<v Speaker 2>New York City on Sixth Avenue? I wonder. I often

620
00:34:22.960 --> 00:34:25.400
<v Speaker 2>wonder about how safe the city is or isn't. I

621
00:34:25.519 --> 00:34:29.320
<v Speaker 2>sometimes wonder if the city is filled with only victims

622
00:34:29.400 --> 00:34:32.599
<v Speaker 2>and predators. But that's a whole other story. Hey mayor

623
00:34:32.960 --> 00:34:37.440
<v Speaker 2>whoever you are, make the city safe again. But back

624
00:34:37.519 --> 00:34:40.920
<v Speaker 2>to Cole, back to Ksa, back to Larry Phillips in

625
00:34:41.000 --> 00:34:43.760
<v Speaker 2>the boardroom. I'm one of three people from PVH Phillips

626
00:34:43.880 --> 00:34:47.679
<v Speaker 2>Venues and City in the meeting. David Cole KSA, how

627
00:34:47.760 --> 00:34:51.079
<v Speaker 2>do we determine what is comfortable? We're ready to do

628
00:34:51.159 --> 00:34:54.599
<v Speaker 2>his survey and the credit of David Cole at the

629
00:34:54.679 --> 00:34:57.480
<v Speaker 2>opportunity to make I don't know at the time one

630
00:34:57.559 --> 00:35:01.840
<v Speaker 2>hundred thousand dollars in consultting fees and determining what would

631
00:35:01.880 --> 00:35:06.280
<v Speaker 2>be comfortable for PVH. He looked at us and he said,

632
00:35:07.079 --> 00:35:11.119
<v Speaker 2>I can't help you. Only you can determine what you're

633
00:35:11.239 --> 00:35:16.679
<v Speaker 2>comfortable with. I can't do that for you. Only you can.

634
00:35:18.280 --> 00:35:22.559
<v Speaker 2>And that was something that I thought about this week

635
00:35:23.400 --> 00:35:28.159
<v Speaker 2>watching the news, hearing about tariffs, knowing that the fashion,

636
00:35:28.280 --> 00:35:31.800
<v Speaker 2>luxury and retail industry sent an emissary to Washington, d C.

637
00:35:32.320 --> 00:35:36.639
<v Speaker 2>To meet with the government about eliminating tariffs or putting

638
00:35:36.679 --> 00:35:40.000
<v Speaker 2>a check on the tariffs because it's severely affecting our industry.

639
00:35:40.719 --> 00:35:46.639
<v Speaker 2>It's creating discomfort. That's why this story of comfort, This

640
00:35:46.880 --> 00:35:49.960
<v Speaker 2>whole industry is in a state of flux. No one

641
00:35:50.280 --> 00:35:53.239
<v Speaker 2>knows what to do. You look at the stock market

642
00:35:53.320 --> 00:35:57.719
<v Speaker 2>our country. There's an appetite to buy. We're buyers, also

643
00:35:57.840 --> 00:36:01.920
<v Speaker 2>a problem. But hold that thought. But discomfort and not

644
00:36:02.079 --> 00:36:05.639
<v Speaker 2>knowing you are as affecting the stock market as playing havoc.

645
00:36:06.440 --> 00:36:10.320
<v Speaker 2>Now I'm going to take another step further. I'm on Instagram.

646
00:36:11.280 --> 00:36:16.039
<v Speaker 2>I find Instagram fascinating. It has some strange stuff. All

647
00:36:16.079 --> 00:36:18.480
<v Speaker 2>you do is flip go to the stuff that is restraints.

648
00:36:18.559 --> 00:36:21.440
<v Speaker 2>I find it. You know, there's a lot of made

649
00:36:21.519 --> 00:36:23.280
<v Speaker 2>up stuff and you ought to be able to sort

650
00:36:23.320 --> 00:36:27.039
<v Speaker 2>through that. But on general, in general, I find it fascinating,

651
00:36:27.079 --> 00:36:30.440
<v Speaker 2>It educates, it entertains me. I love Instagram. And I

652
00:36:30.559 --> 00:36:33.480
<v Speaker 2>came across a guy I don't know his name. He's

653
00:36:33.559 --> 00:36:39.440
<v Speaker 2>a China influencer, and he's talking about tariffs and where

654
00:36:39.639 --> 00:36:45.760
<v Speaker 2>China is versus the USA. Now, once again, before I

655
00:36:45.880 --> 00:36:48.480
<v Speaker 2>played for you what he had to say, I want

656
00:36:48.519 --> 00:36:51.000
<v Speaker 2>to remind you that we made a decision to import

657
00:36:51.239 --> 00:36:55.719
<v Speaker 2>from China. My company made a decision after importing from

658
00:36:55.800 --> 00:36:57.840
<v Speaker 2>the rest of the world, which we started to do,

659
00:36:58.480 --> 00:37:02.400
<v Speaker 2>end up closing our acories. We had a few left.

660
00:37:03.000 --> 00:37:06.159
<v Speaker 2>We went to China. I was part of a team

661
00:37:06.440 --> 00:37:08.800
<v Speaker 2>and I was told when I went, you're going to

662
00:37:08.960 --> 00:37:12.760
<v Speaker 2>offer them the know how. You're going to teach them

663
00:37:12.960 --> 00:37:15.639
<v Speaker 2>to how to manufacture shirts. I said, what are you

664
00:37:15.719 --> 00:37:17.679
<v Speaker 2>talking about. They have a billion people. You know how

665
00:37:17.679 --> 00:37:20.320
<v Speaker 2>many shirts they must make if they're not importing. They said,

666
00:37:20.320 --> 00:37:22.800
<v Speaker 2>they make all their own shirts. You're right, but they

667
00:37:22.920 --> 00:37:25.559
<v Speaker 2>can't make the shirts they need to sell in the

668
00:37:25.639 --> 00:37:29.039
<v Speaker 2>Western hemisphere and the rest of the world. The standards

669
00:37:29.079 --> 00:37:31.760
<v Speaker 2>in China might be right for China, but we wouldn't

670
00:37:31.800 --> 00:37:34.719
<v Speaker 2>accept them. They don't make the collars they way we

671
00:37:34.840 --> 00:37:37.760
<v Speaker 2>need them. We fuse our collars. For example. Fusing is

672
00:37:37.840 --> 00:37:42.039
<v Speaker 2>a process where collar linings have glue in them. I'll

673
00:37:42.079 --> 00:37:45.000
<v Speaker 2>make it simple. Glue and when you apply heat and

674
00:37:45.199 --> 00:37:48.599
<v Speaker 2>pressure to the collar, they had stay together and the

675
00:37:48.679 --> 00:37:51.719
<v Speaker 2>collars never bubble. You have shirts that bubble in your

676
00:37:51.760 --> 00:37:53.800
<v Speaker 2>collar they weren't fused. They don't have to do that.

677
00:37:54.440 --> 00:37:56.559
<v Speaker 2>Maybe this is simple. You know, you ever see something

678
00:37:56.599 --> 00:37:58.880
<v Speaker 2>you buy in red, you sit down on a white couch.

679
00:37:58.960 --> 00:38:01.519
<v Speaker 2>It comes off because they and have the right dye

680
00:38:01.639 --> 00:38:04.440
<v Speaker 2>stuffs to make sure that the color was fast. It's

681
00:38:04.519 --> 00:38:06.800
<v Speaker 2>called color fast. It stays, it will never come out

682
00:38:07.079 --> 00:38:09.480
<v Speaker 2>once it apply the dye in the fabric. You know.

683
00:38:09.559 --> 00:38:11.920
<v Speaker 2>I had a period in time where I was the

684
00:38:12.000 --> 00:38:15.280
<v Speaker 2>head of the shirt company and every week we would

685
00:38:15.280 --> 00:38:19.400
<v Speaker 2>get a box of letters from consumers. And every week,

686
00:38:20.119 --> 00:38:22.440
<v Speaker 2>being the head of the shirt company, the president of

687
00:38:22.480 --> 00:38:25.960
<v Speaker 2>the company would hand me a bunch of letters, and finally,

688
00:38:26.039 --> 00:38:28.280
<v Speaker 2>at one point he said, I'm sick of this mark

689
00:38:28.440 --> 00:38:32.559
<v Speaker 2>fix it said, fix what. You know what read these letters?

690
00:38:33.559 --> 00:38:37.800
<v Speaker 2>So I read the letters and people are complaining about

691
00:38:38.000 --> 00:38:40.880
<v Speaker 2>buttons broken on their dress shirt, either the collar, the

692
00:38:40.960 --> 00:38:44.000
<v Speaker 2>front buttons. They're all breaking all the time. Now, the

693
00:38:44.079 --> 00:38:46.920
<v Speaker 2>most expensive buttons in the world are mother of pearl.

694
00:38:47.239 --> 00:38:50.199
<v Speaker 2>They're actually made I think of oysters. If I ought

695
00:38:50.360 --> 00:38:52.880
<v Speaker 2>to get shirts made of mother of pearl, you're gonna

696
00:38:52.880 --> 00:38:54.840
<v Speaker 2>have to import them. You can't import them in the

697
00:38:54.880 --> 00:38:57.480
<v Speaker 2>country till food and wed life go in and examine

698
00:38:57.679 --> 00:39:01.760
<v Speaker 2>and understand where these pearls were or oysters were forested

699
00:39:01.920 --> 00:39:03.840
<v Speaker 2>or farmed. I mean, it's a big deal. But the

700
00:39:03.920 --> 00:39:06.199
<v Speaker 2>most expensive ones in the world are the ones that

701
00:39:06.400 --> 00:39:10.599
<v Speaker 2>break the quickest. The ones that break the least are plastic.

702
00:39:11.079 --> 00:39:14.400
<v Speaker 2>But it also depends on the shape of the plastic,

703
00:39:14.599 --> 00:39:18.199
<v Speaker 2>so a lot goes into it. Every week we're getting

704
00:39:18.280 --> 00:39:21.559
<v Speaker 2>lettuce from consumers or shirts or broken buttons. I guess

705
00:39:21.639 --> 00:39:24.000
<v Speaker 2>when you look at shirts or sweaters for that matter,

706
00:39:24.239 --> 00:39:27.599
<v Speaker 2>and you see extra buttons or thread they attached to

707
00:39:27.880 --> 00:39:30.400
<v Speaker 2>expensive sweater. If the sweater have buttons, so you lose

708
00:39:30.440 --> 00:39:32.400
<v Speaker 2>a button, they don't want you to have to replace

709
00:39:32.480 --> 00:39:33.760
<v Speaker 2>them all. They don't want you have to give up

710
00:39:33.800 --> 00:39:36.280
<v Speaker 2>on the sweater. They give you an extra button, case

711
00:39:36.320 --> 00:39:38.280
<v Speaker 2>of nit where it pulls. Sometimes you get a hole.

712
00:39:38.360 --> 00:39:41.599
<v Speaker 2>They give you extra thread so you could sew that

713
00:39:41.719 --> 00:39:44.679
<v Speaker 2>fred on there and eliminate the whole. And dress shirts,

714
00:39:44.719 --> 00:39:48.039
<v Speaker 2>in particular men's sports shirt, they started doing extra buttons

715
00:39:48.119 --> 00:39:49.920
<v Speaker 2>in the tail or the front of the shirt where

716
00:39:49.920 --> 00:39:52.360
<v Speaker 2>it's hidden in the waist, to give you buttons if

717
00:39:52.360 --> 00:39:54.679
<v Speaker 2>you have to change in because they break. Maybe that's

718
00:39:54.719 --> 00:39:57.199
<v Speaker 2>where it began. Anyway, I get all these letters. Buttons

719
00:39:57.239 --> 00:39:59.599
<v Speaker 2>are breaking. I mentioned earlier in the show. I had

720
00:39:59.599 --> 00:40:02.480
<v Speaker 2>a friend and the button business. His name is bud Winstream.

721
00:40:02.719 --> 00:40:05.079
<v Speaker 2>He was in the president of a company called Copper's

722
00:40:05.159 --> 00:40:08.800
<v Speaker 2>button again, Koppers. I don't even know if they exists anymore.

723
00:40:08.960 --> 00:40:10.840
<v Speaker 2>I should look it up, call them in. I said,

724
00:40:10.840 --> 00:40:13.159
<v Speaker 2>I have a problem, but it's what's your problem? Said,

725
00:40:13.280 --> 00:40:16.079
<v Speaker 2>all my buttons are breaking, And the problem is is

726
00:40:16.119 --> 00:40:18.719
<v Speaker 2>all my buttons on buy from you? He said, you

727
00:40:18.800 --> 00:40:21.920
<v Speaker 2>can't lay that on me. You're buying all these fancy buttons,

728
00:40:22.000 --> 00:40:25.079
<v Speaker 2>thin shapes. They're not right. He said that they're gonna happen.

729
00:40:25.840 --> 00:40:28.079
<v Speaker 2>I said, why are they happening? He says, you tell

730
00:40:28.159 --> 00:40:30.599
<v Speaker 2>me Mark, I said, you changed the wave shirts are pressed.

731
00:40:31.280 --> 00:40:34.360
<v Speaker 2>Used to be, shirts were pressed by hand. Everything was

732
00:40:34.440 --> 00:40:38.639
<v Speaker 2>done by hand, simple, nice, elegant. But they invented what's

733
00:40:38.719 --> 00:40:43.400
<v Speaker 2>called cabinet presses for speed and efficiency. They look like

734
00:40:43.840 --> 00:40:45.719
<v Speaker 2>the body of a man. If you will, you wrap

735
00:40:45.880 --> 00:40:48.159
<v Speaker 2>the shirt right on it. You press a button, some

736
00:40:49.360 --> 00:40:53.239
<v Speaker 2>h three hundred and sixty degree iron comes on that

737
00:40:53.320 --> 00:40:55.400
<v Speaker 2>shirt in a matter of seconds. The whole shirt is pressed.

738
00:40:55.400 --> 00:40:57.440
<v Speaker 2>When you use it, though, and it hits the buttons,

739
00:40:57.519 --> 00:41:01.000
<v Speaker 2>it breaks it because you're not ironing a wrap. He says,

740
00:41:01.039 --> 00:41:03.719
<v Speaker 2>I have one button here, then I guarantee you will

741
00:41:03.760 --> 00:41:07.599
<v Speaker 2>not break against any cabin pressing or anything else. Show

742
00:41:07.599 --> 00:41:09.639
<v Speaker 2>it to me. I looked at it was boring. I

743
00:41:09.679 --> 00:41:12.440
<v Speaker 2>didn't like it. He said to me, you don't want

744
00:41:12.480 --> 00:41:15.280
<v Speaker 2>broken buttons, use this button. So I called in my

745
00:41:15.440 --> 00:41:19.320
<v Speaker 2>head of engineering, Burt Blackman from Warving the Jersey, and

746
00:41:19.440 --> 00:41:20.800
<v Speaker 2>I said to him, look at this. What do you

747
00:41:20.840 --> 00:41:24.119
<v Speaker 2>think He says, it makes sense. Get me a couple

748
00:41:24.239 --> 00:41:27.199
<v Speaker 2>dozen of these buttons. I will take them to the lab.

749
00:41:27.239 --> 00:41:30.079
<v Speaker 2>I'll come back. Burt Blagman comes back to me, tells

750
00:41:30.119 --> 00:41:33.559
<v Speaker 2>me the buttons are great. He says, they will not break,

751
00:41:34.000 --> 00:41:36.519
<v Speaker 2>they will stand up to the force of cabinet pressing.

752
00:41:36.920 --> 00:41:39.199
<v Speaker 2>And I made a decision that every one of our

753
00:41:39.320 --> 00:41:43.519
<v Speaker 2>shirts would have those buttons, particularly the basic shirts, the

754
00:41:43.599 --> 00:41:46.719
<v Speaker 2>simple shirts that people buy day in, day out. They

755
00:41:46.880 --> 00:41:49.239
<v Speaker 2>use them for replenishment. You stain your shirt, you rip

756
00:41:49.320 --> 00:41:52.519
<v Speaker 2>your shirt, whatever, make case. You will use these shirts

757
00:41:52.559 --> 00:41:54.599
<v Speaker 2>and they'll all have those buttons. I made a decision.

758
00:41:54.880 --> 00:41:56.360
<v Speaker 2>Went to the president of the company. I said, I

759
00:41:56.480 --> 00:41:58.400
<v Speaker 2>solved that this is a button might not be as

760
00:41:58.519 --> 00:42:00.320
<v Speaker 2>nice as our other buttons. He looked. They said it

761
00:42:00.360 --> 00:42:02.639
<v Speaker 2>won't break, won't break the lab test, and the lab

762
00:42:02.679 --> 00:42:05.159
<v Speaker 2>testin all right, let's start. I started doing that, and

763
00:42:05.239 --> 00:42:08.960
<v Speaker 2>sure enough, buttons didn't break. But that's back to manufacturing

764
00:42:09.039 --> 00:42:14.039
<v Speaker 2>being obsessed with quality. So now what happens we make

765
00:42:14.119 --> 00:42:16.800
<v Speaker 2>a decision to import, we started importing, we use the

766
00:42:16.840 --> 00:42:19.320
<v Speaker 2>same buttons. We don't longer have that problem, but we're

767
00:42:19.360 --> 00:42:22.519
<v Speaker 2>losing our ability to manufacture in the United States. And

768
00:42:22.679 --> 00:42:27.079
<v Speaker 2>the last bastion is China. We go to China. Back

769
00:42:27.159 --> 00:42:29.400
<v Speaker 2>to China, they make builliings of shirts. They can't make

770
00:42:29.440 --> 00:42:31.719
<v Speaker 2>the shirts that we need in America because they're not,

771
00:42:32.480 --> 00:42:34.760
<v Speaker 2>if not the quality. They don't think it's the way

772
00:42:34.840 --> 00:42:37.119
<v Speaker 2>we need it. They don't understand we need And I'm

773
00:42:37.159 --> 00:42:39.360
<v Speaker 2>going to China with a team of people. We're going

774
00:42:39.480 --> 00:42:41.519
<v Speaker 2>to teach them how to make shirts for us and

775
00:42:41.599 --> 00:42:43.480
<v Speaker 2>how to make shirts for the rest of the world.

776
00:42:44.159 --> 00:42:47.039
<v Speaker 2>And I remember sitting there because it was awkward. The

777
00:42:47.119 --> 00:42:50.400
<v Speaker 2>first meetings you have over the government office at the

778
00:42:51.079 --> 00:42:54.280
<v Speaker 2>time was Beijing Peeking Head Office. You walk in, you

779
00:42:54.400 --> 00:42:56.639
<v Speaker 2>meet with the heads of government. They come into military

780
00:42:56.760 --> 00:43:00.000
<v Speaker 2>uniforms and they tell you where you're going to manufact

781
00:43:00.239 --> 00:43:01.840
<v Speaker 2>You don't get a choice. You don't go and look

782
00:43:01.880 --> 00:43:04.920
<v Speaker 2>around and choose the fact you're going to manufacture. Yeap.

783
00:43:05.320 --> 00:43:07.920
<v Speaker 2>Our first factory was called Beijing Number one. From there

784
00:43:07.960 --> 00:43:10.400
<v Speaker 2>we went to Beijing number one. We met with the

785
00:43:10.480 --> 00:43:12.800
<v Speaker 2>factory people and we took a tour of the factory.

786
00:43:13.119 --> 00:43:15.800
<v Speaker 2>I had my head of engineering at Downheim from Hong Kong.

787
00:43:15.880 --> 00:43:18.960
<v Speaker 2>When we walked through the sewing floor and they were

788
00:43:19.039 --> 00:43:22.119
<v Speaker 2>making shirts like anyone else would, and I noticed a

789
00:43:22.159 --> 00:43:24.719
<v Speaker 2>few things. I noticed. First of all, there were no

790
00:43:24.880 --> 00:43:29.320
<v Speaker 2>overhead fans. Now why are overhead fans important? Not just fans,

791
00:43:29.440 --> 00:43:33.559
<v Speaker 2>more of importantly, vacuum cleaners, because in factories, particularly if

792
00:43:33.599 --> 00:43:36.639
<v Speaker 2>there's dust, which there was plenty of in China, particularly

793
00:43:36.639 --> 00:43:39.199
<v Speaker 2>if you're making white shirts, the dust can accumulate on

794
00:43:39.280 --> 00:43:42.559
<v Speaker 2>the shirts and be a problem. They didn't have that,

795
00:43:43.320 --> 00:43:45.800
<v Speaker 2>So the first thing we talked we put on checknote

796
00:43:45.840 --> 00:43:48.960
<v Speaker 2>there they need to have vacuums. From there, we watched

797
00:43:49.360 --> 00:43:54.400
<v Speaker 2>the entire operations, and while they didn't have our stitch count,

798
00:43:54.519 --> 00:43:57.679
<v Speaker 2>which at the time was twelve SPUs twelve stitches burge,

799
00:43:57.840 --> 00:44:00.400
<v Speaker 2>they had less, which allowed them to sew fast. They

800
00:44:00.440 --> 00:44:03.840
<v Speaker 2>get so slower and do what we needed. But we

801
00:44:04.000 --> 00:44:06.719
<v Speaker 2>got to the end of operations, there was a table

802
00:44:06.960 --> 00:44:09.440
<v Speaker 2>as long as the city block, with two sides of

803
00:44:09.519 --> 00:44:12.519
<v Speaker 2>the table and a conveyor belt, and everyone sitting at

804
00:44:12.559 --> 00:44:15.719
<v Speaker 2>the conveyor belt had in front of a little silver bowl,

805
00:44:16.480 --> 00:44:18.840
<v Speaker 2>a toothbrush, and a bar of soap. And I'm with

806
00:44:18.960 --> 00:44:21.360
<v Speaker 2>my head of engineering and said, what is that all about?

807
00:44:21.800 --> 00:44:24.280
<v Speaker 2>So we walk over and we watch and as shirts

808
00:44:24.360 --> 00:44:28.440
<v Speaker 2>come off a conveyor belt, mostly white. These people are

809
00:44:28.480 --> 00:44:32.000
<v Speaker 2>sitting there, hundreds of them, with their toothbrush, their bowl

810
00:44:32.559 --> 00:44:36.559
<v Speaker 2>and the soap and brushing the shirts where they have

811
00:44:36.719 --> 00:44:39.719
<v Speaker 2>little marks and stains from the dust in the air.

812
00:44:40.119 --> 00:44:42.800
<v Speaker 2>My head of engineering as and what it's back and

813
00:44:42.920 --> 00:44:44.639
<v Speaker 2>he looks at them and they tell him blah blah

814
00:44:44.679 --> 00:44:47.079
<v Speaker 2>blah and amandarin Chinese, and he explains to them what

815
00:44:47.159 --> 00:44:49.480
<v Speaker 2>I just explained to you. They're making sure that the

816
00:44:49.559 --> 00:44:52.920
<v Speaker 2>shirts are spotless and the clean. And we started to talk.

817
00:44:53.039 --> 00:44:55.599
<v Speaker 2>He said, could you imagine how great their quality is

818
00:44:56.119 --> 00:44:58.599
<v Speaker 2>if they can throw this many people at the operations

819
00:44:58.679 --> 00:45:02.559
<v Speaker 2>because everything there was a people. Afterwards, we had a meeting.

820
00:45:02.679 --> 00:45:04.639
<v Speaker 2>We said to them, we presented them a list of

821
00:45:04.719 --> 00:45:07.079
<v Speaker 2>things that we would do differently. They said they'll do it.

822
00:45:07.400 --> 00:45:09.840
<v Speaker 2>They thanked us for talking. We asked them, why do

823
00:45:09.960 --> 00:45:12.519
<v Speaker 2>you have all those people? And they said, we have

824
00:45:12.840 --> 00:45:16.880
<v Speaker 2>to keep people working. So we knew right then and

825
00:45:16.960 --> 00:45:19.320
<v Speaker 2>there a lot of things were going afoot that were

826
00:45:19.360 --> 00:45:23.280
<v Speaker 2>helping China keep their people working. That we could have

827
00:45:23.719 --> 00:45:26.480
<v Speaker 2>excellent quality in China because they were willing to work

828
00:45:26.559 --> 00:45:29.400
<v Speaker 2>with us, and we get these incredible prices. As I

829
00:45:29.519 --> 00:45:32.119
<v Speaker 2>told you the last time, we were making shirts and

830
00:45:32.199 --> 00:45:34.639
<v Speaker 2>they cost one hundred and twenty five dollars a dozen

831
00:45:35.239 --> 00:45:37.119
<v Speaker 2>in the United States, we could do them in China

832
00:45:37.159 --> 00:45:40.119
<v Speaker 2>for thirty five dollars a dozen. It was really crazy,

833
00:45:41.199 --> 00:45:44.480
<v Speaker 2>and we decided to give our know how and our

834
00:45:44.599 --> 00:45:49.760
<v Speaker 2>technology to China in favor of lower prices. China did

835
00:45:49.840 --> 00:45:53.440
<v Speaker 2>nothing wrong. They accepted us, they treated us gratefully, they

836
00:45:53.519 --> 00:45:56.199
<v Speaker 2>appreciated what we were going to teach them, and we

837
00:45:56.360 --> 00:45:59.039
<v Speaker 2>moved on from there. But that is a backdrop. I'm

838
00:45:59.079 --> 00:46:03.840
<v Speaker 2>reflecting week and reminding you that you fall seven times,

839
00:46:04.039 --> 00:46:08.760
<v Speaker 2>you get up eight back in a moment. Always in fashion,

840
00:46:09.480 --> 00:46:12.880
<v Speaker 2>Donna Karen began her career as one of the finest,

841
00:46:13.480 --> 00:46:18.440
<v Speaker 2>most successful, powerful women in the fashion industry. She developed

842
00:46:18.480 --> 00:46:22.239
<v Speaker 2>a collection aimed at the luxury market for women on

843
00:46:22.360 --> 00:46:25.280
<v Speaker 2>the go, women who were powerful in their workplace, women

844
00:46:25.320 --> 00:46:28.280
<v Speaker 2>who had lives that extended beyond the workplace, and her

845
00:46:28.360 --> 00:46:32.199
<v Speaker 2>clothes went from day and to night. An extraordinary collection,

846
00:46:32.559 --> 00:46:35.559
<v Speaker 2>but The interesting thing, Donna Karen had a young daughter,

847
00:46:35.639 --> 00:46:37.800
<v Speaker 2>and she had friends and they couldn't afford to buy

848
00:46:37.920 --> 00:46:42.360
<v Speaker 2>the Donna Karen collection, and Donna invented dk NY Donna Aaron,

849
00:46:42.440 --> 00:46:45.280
<v Speaker 2>New York. It's an offshoot of the Donna Karen collection.

850
00:46:45.800 --> 00:46:48.760
<v Speaker 2>The same concept a lifestyle brand. Now we talk about

851
00:46:48.800 --> 00:46:52.119
<v Speaker 2>lifestyle brands, what does that really mean? Simply what they say,

852
00:46:52.159 --> 00:46:55.480
<v Speaker 2>there are brands that follow you throughout your lifestyle. You

853
00:46:55.559 --> 00:46:57.400
<v Speaker 2>get up in the morning, you start to get dressed

854
00:46:57.400 --> 00:47:01.000
<v Speaker 2>Donna Karen decan why as intimate apparel, as hosiery, as

855
00:47:01.079 --> 00:47:04.199
<v Speaker 2>all those products. You're getting dressed for work. You get

856
00:47:04.239 --> 00:47:07.599
<v Speaker 2>accessorized shoes, handbags, and it takes you through the day.

857
00:47:07.960 --> 00:47:10.639
<v Speaker 2>The remarkable thing about DK and Y clothes for work,

858
00:47:10.880 --> 00:47:14.800
<v Speaker 2>they work into the evening. The dresses, the suits, the pants,

859
00:47:15.199 --> 00:47:20.360
<v Speaker 2>the sweaters, the blouses, extraordinary clothes at affordable prices that

860
00:47:20.599 --> 00:47:24.000
<v Speaker 2>go from day in tonight. Part of your lifestyle is active.

861
00:47:24.280 --> 00:47:27.800
<v Speaker 2>You have weekends, you have events, you participate in sports.

862
00:47:28.119 --> 00:47:31.679
<v Speaker 2>Donna Karen's casual clothes did that under the DK and

863
00:47:31.880 --> 00:47:35.679
<v Speaker 2>Y label. A vast array of casual sportswear that make

864
00:47:35.920 --> 00:47:40.559
<v Speaker 2>women look great as they navigate their busy lives. Whether

865
00:47:40.559 --> 00:47:42.960
<v Speaker 2>you're going to soccer games for your children, or whether

866
00:47:43.039 --> 00:47:45.800
<v Speaker 2>you're going out to the movies, whatever you want to do,

867
00:47:46.519 --> 00:47:50.639
<v Speaker 2>dcn Y Jeans, dcay Hy Sportswear is there for you.

868
00:47:51.079 --> 00:47:54.119
<v Speaker 2>That's what a lifestyle brand is. I need to mention

869
00:47:54.559 --> 00:47:59.000
<v Speaker 2>DKY active Wear, which is extraordinary, the leggings, the sports

870
00:47:59.079 --> 00:48:05.239
<v Speaker 2>bras hett You can wear DKY activewear certainly in the gym,

871
00:48:05.559 --> 00:48:08.239
<v Speaker 2>certainly when you're working out at home, and certainly if

872
00:48:08.280 --> 00:48:11.360
<v Speaker 2>you want on the street because it's that well done.

873
00:48:11.599 --> 00:48:14.480
<v Speaker 2>The quality of DKY is nothing short of exceptional. And

874
00:48:14.559 --> 00:48:17.079
<v Speaker 2>why shouldn't it be because it was born from the

875
00:48:17.199 --> 00:48:22.360
<v Speaker 2>idea of luxury made affordable for women of America. Dk

876
00:48:22.599 --> 00:48:26.000
<v Speaker 2>and Why a true lifestyle brand that takes you from

877
00:48:26.119 --> 00:48:29.880
<v Speaker 2>day and tonight, from the week into the weekend. DCN

878
00:48:30.039 --> 00:48:35.039
<v Speaker 2>Why you can find DCNY and Macy's DKY dot com.

879
00:48:35.519 --> 00:48:38.679
<v Speaker 2>As one of the world's most celebrated fashion designers, Carl

880
00:48:38.719 --> 00:48:42.320
<v Speaker 2>Lagafeld was renowned for his aspirational and cutting edge approach

881
00:48:42.400 --> 00:48:45.760
<v Speaker 2>to style. His unique vision of Parisian shit comes to

882
00:48:45.840 --> 00:48:51.199
<v Speaker 2>America through Carlagofeld Paris. He has women's collections, men's collections,

883
00:48:51.320 --> 00:48:54.599
<v Speaker 2>ready to wear accessory, shoes and bags. The fashion house

884
00:48:54.639 --> 00:48:58.800
<v Speaker 2>Carlagafeld also offers a range of watches, eyewear, and premium fragrances.

885
00:48:59.119 --> 00:49:03.400
<v Speaker 2>You can explore the Carlagovol collection at carlagofelpowers dot com.

886
00:49:04.119 --> 00:49:07.039
<v Speaker 2>But it's more than that. I for one, love to shop.

887
00:49:07.679 --> 00:49:09.880
<v Speaker 2>I love going around and seeing what's happening and what

888
00:49:10.400 --> 00:49:13.239
<v Speaker 2>catches my attention, what would make me feel good to

889
00:49:13.320 --> 00:49:16.199
<v Speaker 2>wear now. I don't wear the women's wear obviously, but

890
00:49:16.280 --> 00:49:19.320
<v Speaker 2>I can appreciate it and they look amazing. If you

891
00:49:19.400 --> 00:49:21.360
<v Speaker 2>want to look right, you want to have clothes that

892
00:49:21.480 --> 00:49:24.119
<v Speaker 2>fits you well. You want to look like you're wearing

893
00:49:24.239 --> 00:49:29.239
<v Speaker 2>something that's very expensive, that's exclusive for you and yours.

894
00:49:29.840 --> 00:49:32.960
<v Speaker 2>You can find it at very affordable prices at Macy's

895
00:49:33.039 --> 00:49:36.760
<v Speaker 2>Orcarlagofel dot com. Paris, the women's ready to wear fashion

896
00:49:36.880 --> 00:49:39.360
<v Speaker 2>is extraordinary, as well as the handbigs and the shoes.

897
00:49:40.000 --> 00:49:44.000
<v Speaker 2>I for one wear men's clothes unlike my appreciation of

898
00:49:44.079 --> 00:49:47.840
<v Speaker 2>women's clothes. I'm a modern guy. I want to look current.

899
00:49:48.079 --> 00:49:49.840
<v Speaker 2>I want to look the way I want to feel.

900
00:49:49.920 --> 00:49:52.519
<v Speaker 2>I go out at night, I'm in black and Carlagofel

901
00:49:52.880 --> 00:49:55.679
<v Speaker 2>is my buddy calls are great, they fit great, and

902
00:49:55.760 --> 00:49:58.000
<v Speaker 2>they have little tweaks and touches, whether it's a stripe

903
00:49:58.039 --> 00:50:00.199
<v Speaker 2>on the sleeve or button at the neck or on

904
00:50:00.280 --> 00:50:02.800
<v Speaker 2>the shoulder. There's a lot of details that go into

905
00:50:02.840 --> 00:50:06.239
<v Speaker 2>Carl Lagafeld because he's always been, he always had been,

906
00:50:06.480 --> 00:50:09.280
<v Speaker 2>one of the world's great designers, and this legacy and

907
00:50:09.440 --> 00:50:12.159
<v Speaker 2>goes on and on. I can't speak enough about it

908
00:50:12.239 --> 00:50:14.000
<v Speaker 2>except to say to you, you want to feel good

909
00:50:14.000 --> 00:50:16.719
<v Speaker 2>about yourself. You want to know that you're dressing properly.

910
00:50:16.719 --> 00:50:20.119
<v Speaker 2>You want to clothes that fits you well. Carl Lagafeld,

911
00:50:20.239 --> 00:50:23.679
<v Speaker 2>Paris at Macy's Orcarl Lagafel dot com.

912
00:50:24.719 --> 00:50:28.920
<v Speaker 1>Welcome back to Always in Fashion. Here's your host, Mark Webber.

913
00:50:29.559 --> 00:50:32.800
<v Speaker 2>I want to play this video from a Chinese influencer

914
00:50:33.079 --> 00:50:36.400
<v Speaker 2>that's gone viral over the course of the last few weeks.

915
00:50:36.719 --> 00:50:40.280
<v Speaker 4>They Robbie blind and you thank them for it. That's

916
00:50:40.320 --> 00:50:41.760
<v Speaker 4>the tragedy, that's a scan.

917
00:50:42.679 --> 00:50:46.039
<v Speaker 3>That's why I'm saying this right now, Americans, you don't

918
00:50:46.079 --> 00:50:49.559
<v Speaker 3>need a turn, You need a revolution. For decades, your

919
00:50:49.639 --> 00:50:53.440
<v Speaker 3>Guman and Odigarch's will ship your job to China, not

920
00:50:53.639 --> 00:50:58.480
<v Speaker 3>for the promise, not for peace, but to explore cheap labors,

921
00:50:59.440 --> 00:51:02.760
<v Speaker 3>and in the process they hollowed out your middle class,

922
00:51:03.039 --> 00:51:06.280
<v Speaker 3>crashed your working class, and told you to be proud

923
00:51:06.760 --> 00:51:11.400
<v Speaker 3>while they sold your future for profit. And yes, China

924
00:51:11.480 --> 00:51:15.039
<v Speaker 3>made money, but we used it to build roads, leave

925
00:51:15.159 --> 00:51:19.840
<v Speaker 3>millions out of property, fund healthcare, raised living standard. We

926
00:51:20.199 --> 00:51:23.760
<v Speaker 3>reinvested in our people. My family also benefited from it.

927
00:51:24.960 --> 00:51:28.599
<v Speaker 3>What did your audigarchs do? They bought yacks, private jets

928
00:51:28.639 --> 00:51:34.440
<v Speaker 3>and mansions with golf course rightways. They manipulate market, dodge attacks,

929
00:51:34.960 --> 00:51:39.480
<v Speaker 3>and poured billions into endless walls. And you you get

930
00:51:39.559 --> 00:51:46.239
<v Speaker 3>stagnate wages, crippling healthcare costs, cheap dopeming debt, and flagged

931
00:51:46.280 --> 00:51:49.679
<v Speaker 3>wave probably made in China while they picked your pocket

932
00:51:50.920 --> 00:51:54.599
<v Speaker 3>for forty years. Both China and the United States benefit

933
00:51:54.719 --> 00:51:58.800
<v Speaker 3>from the trade, the manufacturing, but only one of us

934
00:51:59.159 --> 00:52:04.119
<v Speaker 3>use that else to build. This in China's fault, This

935
00:52:04.320 --> 00:52:07.519
<v Speaker 3>is yours. You let this happen. You let autogos fit

936
00:52:07.639 --> 00:52:08.079
<v Speaker 3>your lice.

937
00:52:08.679 --> 00:52:08.880
<v Speaker 2>Well.

938
00:52:08.920 --> 00:52:13.159
<v Speaker 4>They made you fat, pooh and addicted. Now they blame

939
00:52:13.360 --> 00:52:17.280
<v Speaker 4>China for mass they made. I don't think so. I

940
00:52:17.280 --> 00:52:20.079
<v Speaker 4>don't think you need another tariff. You need to wake up.

941
00:52:20.800 --> 00:52:24.239
<v Speaker 4>You needed to take your country back. I think you

942
00:52:24.320 --> 00:52:25.000
<v Speaker 4>need a revolution.

943
00:52:25.719 --> 00:52:28.039
<v Speaker 2>I couldn't help but listening and playing it for you

944
00:52:28.800 --> 00:52:32.119
<v Speaker 2>because I thought it was brilliant. Now let me make

945
00:52:32.159 --> 00:52:35.639
<v Speaker 2>it clear. I'm not supporting communists China here as a

946
00:52:35.719 --> 00:52:39.480
<v Speaker 2>propaganda I am only saying that. I think what they

947
00:52:39.559 --> 00:52:42.599
<v Speaker 2>said was very telling. I think what they said about

948
00:52:42.679 --> 00:52:45.880
<v Speaker 2>their country and our country was very telling. I think

949
00:52:45.960 --> 00:52:48.039
<v Speaker 2>I said to you up front, we're the greatest country

950
00:52:48.079 --> 00:52:51.760
<v Speaker 2>in the world. We've done things, But where was our government?

951
00:52:52.320 --> 00:52:54.760
<v Speaker 2>Where were the people who were leading us? I said

952
00:52:54.760 --> 00:52:56.639
<v Speaker 2>I'd get back to it later, And here I am.

953
00:52:56.760 --> 00:52:59.679
<v Speaker 2>I'm back to it later. I said, I was a

954
00:52:59.760 --> 00:53:03.199
<v Speaker 2>co conspirator. I did this with my eyes open. I

955
00:53:03.360 --> 00:53:05.960
<v Speaker 2>was part of the problem. I was no better. I

956
00:53:06.039 --> 00:53:08.679
<v Speaker 2>should have known better. I remember when we were doing this,

957
00:53:09.079 --> 00:53:12.400
<v Speaker 2>I had a feeling something didn't feel right. That the

958
00:53:12.599 --> 00:53:17.199
<v Speaker 2>proprietary technology that we owned and cherished, this manufacturer we

959
00:53:17.320 --> 00:53:20.360
<v Speaker 2>were giving away, if not for free, but for low

960
00:53:20.440 --> 00:53:24.800
<v Speaker 2>price manufacturing. And here we are finding ourselves there. So

961
00:53:24.920 --> 00:53:28.119
<v Speaker 2>I'm not paying for China right now, just the opposite.

962
00:53:28.599 --> 00:53:32.800
<v Speaker 2>I'm played for you a Chinese citizen reaching out perhaps

963
00:53:32.920 --> 00:53:35.760
<v Speaker 2>to help America be great again and get back on track.

964
00:53:36.280 --> 00:53:40.400
<v Speaker 2>We're a great country. We led the industrialized world. We

965
00:53:40.559 --> 00:53:45.599
<v Speaker 2>invented everything, airplanes, air conditioning, telephone, the smartphone. Were brilliant.

966
00:53:46.280 --> 00:53:49.679
<v Speaker 2>Everyone copied us. The Japanese, who were even more brilliant,

967
00:53:50.039 --> 00:53:53.719
<v Speaker 2>copied our ideas and miniaturized them. But we developed everyone.

968
00:53:53.920 --> 00:53:57.880
<v Speaker 2>Everyone else just followed. We were and we are amazing.

969
00:53:58.280 --> 00:54:01.400
<v Speaker 2>We had the most innovation, that best economy. We were

970
00:54:01.440 --> 00:54:04.639
<v Speaker 2>the world's darling. We were envied, we were miird. We

971
00:54:04.800 --> 00:54:08.119
<v Speaker 2>made everything from railroads to bridges, to office tours to

972
00:54:08.239 --> 00:54:12.800
<v Speaker 2>planes and cars. We cured disease, We mass produced, We

973
00:54:13.000 --> 00:54:18.599
<v Speaker 2>clothed the world until we stopped. We were manufacturers, and

974
00:54:18.760 --> 00:54:23.800
<v Speaker 2>then we stopped manufacturing. We gave up manufacturing for consuming.

975
00:54:25.000 --> 00:54:25.719
<v Speaker 2>Who are we?

976
00:54:26.760 --> 00:54:27.360
<v Speaker 1>What are we?

977
00:54:28.280 --> 00:54:31.480
<v Speaker 2>I'll tell you what we are. We buy stuff. That's

978
00:54:31.480 --> 00:54:35.559
<v Speaker 2>who we are now. We're consumers and government and business

979
00:54:35.679 --> 00:54:38.079
<v Speaker 2>and as people, we buy stuff.

980
00:54:38.559 --> 00:54:38.679
<v Speaker 1>Now.

981
00:54:38.719 --> 00:54:42.840
<v Speaker 2>There are certain exceptions, not completely. We still grow crops

982
00:54:42.880 --> 00:54:46.920
<v Speaker 2>and make food, We make automobiles. We even continue to

983
00:54:46.960 --> 00:54:52.239
<v Speaker 2>make some pharmaceuticals. But we found out we don't make penicillins,

984
00:54:52.320 --> 00:54:57.480
<v Speaker 2>we don't make antibiotics. What's going on? We made everything

985
00:54:57.920 --> 00:55:01.920
<v Speaker 2>until we didn't what we did. We gave up making

986
00:55:02.079 --> 00:55:06.480
<v Speaker 2>things for making money. We have dollars and we have

987
00:55:06.679 --> 00:55:10.159
<v Speaker 2>nothing to spend it on. We have dollars, we spent

988
00:55:10.239 --> 00:55:13.000
<v Speaker 2>it on the wrong stuff. We are no longer the

989
00:55:13.119 --> 00:55:16.199
<v Speaker 2>leader the way we once were. We're almost becoming obsolete,

990
00:55:16.920 --> 00:55:20.239
<v Speaker 2>and our leaders are to blame. We voted for them.

991
00:55:20.400 --> 00:55:23.440
<v Speaker 2>So is it them or is it us our executives

992
00:55:23.559 --> 00:55:25.880
<v Speaker 2>to blame. We gave them free reign to do whatever

993
00:55:26.000 --> 00:55:29.360
<v Speaker 2>they want. I'm thankful for it. I did whatever I wanted.

994
00:55:30.159 --> 00:55:33.000
<v Speaker 2>We like things, but it seems that we forgot how

995
00:55:33.039 --> 00:55:39.280
<v Speaker 2>to like ourselves. I ask you Republicans Democrats consider as

996
00:55:39.360 --> 00:55:43.679
<v Speaker 2>Trump getting our dignity back? Are we applying common sense

997
00:55:43.760 --> 00:55:46.800
<v Speaker 2>to the future of America and the world? I say

998
00:55:46.840 --> 00:55:50.480
<v Speaker 2>it to as a co conspirator. I gave away technology.

999
00:55:51.039 --> 00:55:53.519
<v Speaker 2>I remember in my guts something felt off. I was

1000
00:55:53.559 --> 00:55:57.280
<v Speaker 2>a kid. What did I know? We protected our technology

1001
00:55:57.320 --> 00:56:01.320
<v Speaker 2>and now we don't. We're proud of our expert Matisa's manufacture.

1002
00:56:01.400 --> 00:56:05.119
<v Speaker 2>We were a differentiator this whole country. We exchanged our

1003
00:56:05.199 --> 00:56:08.719
<v Speaker 2>knowledge for low priced goods. We made more money, our

1004
00:56:08.800 --> 00:56:14.320
<v Speaker 2>stock prices rose. Where is and was the American system?

1005
00:56:14.880 --> 00:56:18.880
<v Speaker 2>Where are our leaders? Where are visionaries? Where are protectors?

1006
00:56:19.239 --> 00:56:24.159
<v Speaker 2>Our protectors? We handed China our knowledge and now we're

1007
00:56:24.280 --> 00:56:27.280
<v Speaker 2>manned at them for taking it. They did nothing wrong

1008
00:56:27.599 --> 00:56:30.400
<v Speaker 2>we did. You want to talk about stealing, That's a

1009
00:56:30.440 --> 00:56:33.239
<v Speaker 2>different subject. I'm not equipped to talk with any authority

1010
00:56:33.320 --> 00:56:36.679
<v Speaker 2>on that. You want to talk a copyright infringement again,

1011
00:56:37.079 --> 00:56:39.559
<v Speaker 2>goes on, I'm not a proficient to talk about that.

1012
00:56:40.360 --> 00:56:43.880
<v Speaker 2>We talk about espionage. I'm sure it goes both ways,

1013
00:56:43.960 --> 00:56:46.440
<v Speaker 2>but I'm not able to talk about that. All I

1014
00:56:46.480 --> 00:56:50.199
<v Speaker 2>could talk about is what is America? Where are we going?

1015
00:56:51.119 --> 00:56:54.920
<v Speaker 2>We should eliminate tariffs, and let's make American decisions for

1016
00:56:55.000 --> 00:57:00.719
<v Speaker 2>Americans and remember fall seven times, Stand up eight, Good Night,