WEBVTT

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<v Speaker 1>KFI AM six forty.

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<v Speaker 2>You're listening to Dean Sharp the house Whisper on demand.

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<v Speaker 1>On the iHeart Radio app.

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<v Speaker 2>Everywhere on the iHeartRadio app. Hey, follow us on social media?

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<v Speaker 2>Why don't you? We only do the good kind, uplifting, informative,

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<v Speaker 2>inspiring social media. We will never chase you down. We

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<v Speaker 2>will never annoy you, well probably well rarely. We will

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<v Speaker 2>rarely annoy you.

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<v Speaker 1>Anyway.

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<v Speaker 2>We're on all the usual suspects, Instagram, TikTok, Facebook x,

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<v Speaker 2>Home with Dean, simple to remember Home with Dean. It's

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<v Speaker 2>the same handle for them all. Find us on your

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<v Speaker 2>favorite social media platform and give us a follow and

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<v Speaker 2>then share some of the info there. If your home

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<v Speaker 2>is in need of some personal house Whisper attention, you know,

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<v Speaker 2>if you want this weirdo actually standing on your patio

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<v Speaker 2>telling you what you need to do, then you can

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<v Speaker 2>book an in home design consult with me and the tea.

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<v Speaker 2>Just go to house Whisperer dot design. All right, we

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<v Speaker 2>are continuing our theme for the weekend of essentially where

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<v Speaker 2>to get the most space for the least amount of money.

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<v Speaker 2>Yesterday I talked about garages. Today I'm talking about outdoors

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<v Speaker 2>and we're breaking it down in a way that I

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<v Speaker 2>hope you've never really thought it through this way before.

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<v Speaker 2>We're breaking it down to the essentials so that you

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<v Speaker 2>don't have to spend a lot of money, but you

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<v Speaker 2>get the biggest bang for the buck essentially along the way,

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<v Speaker 2>in other words, what's it gonna take to get you

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<v Speaker 2>outside to keep your comfy and to enjoy the experience

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<v Speaker 2>so that you can utilize outside as more space for

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<v Speaker 2>your living. And we're going to return to that con

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<v Speaker 2>conversation in just a bit, but right now, top of

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<v Speaker 2>the hour, time to take some calls. Oh and by

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<v Speaker 2>the way, Michelle just producer Michelle handed this to me,

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<v Speaker 2>She said, a listener asked me to pass on this joke.

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<v Speaker 2>What is green and stays out all night? Patio furniture?

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<v Speaker 3>Perfect?

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<v Speaker 1>All right?

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<v Speaker 2>All right, yeah, it's is that denigrating to the Irish

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<v Speaker 2>people patio furniture? No, in no way, I don't believe

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<v Speaker 2>among my people that you can actually insult us when

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<v Speaker 2>it comes to those kinds of things, because all we're

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<v Speaker 2>gonna do is say shrug our shoulders and say yeah, yeah,

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<v Speaker 2>it's true.

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<v Speaker 1>It's true, sad but true. All right.

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<v Speaker 2>Anyway, there you go, there's your stupid joke for the day,

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<v Speaker 2>but timely because Saint Patrick's Day is just around the corner.

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<v Speaker 2>All right, let's go to the phones. I want to

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<v Speaker 2>talk to Al. Hey, Al, welcome home, Hidine.

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<v Speaker 4>Thanks for taking my call. My wife and I moved

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<v Speaker 4>into a center old home located in the Pacific Northwest

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<v Speaker 4>spot two years ago. The house came with an unfinished

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<v Speaker 4>bear stud attached to gar garage with an attached room

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<v Speaker 4>that I currently use at the workshop. We're looking at

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<v Speaker 4>a second level to the garage and used it as

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<v Speaker 4>a studio and office space and then later converted to

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<v Speaker 4>a just a living space. However, the problem there's only

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<v Speaker 4>a one and a half foot setback from the proper line.

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<v Speaker 4>The county requires a five foot step back for any

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<v Speaker 4>new or remodeled constructure structures. We submitted the revised site

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<v Speaker 4>planned and the new setback is byfoot and we've already

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<v Speaker 4>been interested a permit for the garage assessory unit and

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<v Speaker 4>our starting to look at construction in a few weeks. However,

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<v Speaker 4>the general contractor came back out to do a reassessment

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<v Speaker 4>of the garage and it's recommending a complete tear down

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<v Speaker 4>of the existing structure for the new build. So here's

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<v Speaker 4>my question. It's a two parter A. What's the cost

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<v Speaker 4>of lumber potentially going up? Is there anything I can

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<v Speaker 4>do pre construction to salvage any good lumber from the

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<v Speaker 4>old structure which looks to be in pretty good condition,

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<v Speaker 4>especially the four by fourteen solid beam that spans the

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<v Speaker 4>length of the unit. The rafters themselves and walls all

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<v Speaker 4>want to be in good conditions. Are there any rules

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<v Speaker 4>against using recycled lumber on a new build? The garage

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<v Speaker 4>itself looks like it well according to you. The previous

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<v Speaker 4>zoneer was re built about ten years ago. I would

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<v Speaker 4>like to use some of that lumber for a backyard

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<v Speaker 4>shed slash tiny home and then later to refinish the

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<v Speaker 4>basement on the main home. And second part the question,

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<v Speaker 4>what would you recommend as a procedure for removing the

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<v Speaker 4>wood from the wall, seatings and the roof without the

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<v Speaker 4>whole thing collapsing on me? I want to reuse some

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<v Speaker 4>of the newer windows, the intry door, garage door, electrical wires,

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<v Speaker 4>and metal roof for that you build and later projects.

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<v Speaker 4>Why is it all worth it?

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, gotcha? Well, whether it's all worth it?

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<v Speaker 2>Has to do with the you know, your time and

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<v Speaker 2>energy put into it to get it done. You know,

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<v Speaker 2>that's that's the biggest question. You know, sweat equity is

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<v Speaker 2>always the question that DI I wires have to contend with, like, ugh,

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<v Speaker 2>is this worth it? Or should we just let this go?

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<v Speaker 2>But all right, century homes, So we're talking about something

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<v Speaker 2>built in the nineteen twenties in the Pacific Northwest, anywhere

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<v Speaker 2>on the west coast. When something's built in the nineteen twenties,

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<v Speaker 2>you're talking about old growth wood, very very stable would

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<v Speaker 2>and now, so to answer the first question of very quickly, no,

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<v Speaker 2>there are no prohibitions about using older wood versus newer wood,

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<v Speaker 2>recycled lumber versus new lumber. The only thing that it

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<v Speaker 2>the building department or inspects or your structural engineer is

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<v Speaker 2>going to be concerned about is the condition of that lumber.

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<v Speaker 2>And the condition of the lumber. In other words, it

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<v Speaker 2>can't be dry rotted, it can't be termite infested, and

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<v Speaker 2>it can't be broken or split or anything like that.

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<v Speaker 2>So salvaging solid pieces of wood, and you know, and

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<v Speaker 2>the point is this, the logic extends this way, and

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<v Speaker 2>I understand that's a very common thing that you know,

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<v Speaker 2>a century home. Even here in southern California, quite often

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<v Speaker 2>a lot of detached garages were built right on the

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<v Speaker 2>property line. Literally, I've got a project in Studio City

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<v Speaker 2>right now where the existing garage it was built in

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<v Speaker 2>the nineteen thirties, is only twenty four inches off the

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<v Speaker 2>property line. And now some work has to be done,

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<v Speaker 2>and we're trying to get it around the idea that

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<v Speaker 2>the new zoning set back and by new I mean

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<v Speaker 2>like nineteen sixty forward is five feet, which is common right,

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<v Speaker 2>and so we're trying to, you know, work massage the

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<v Speaker 2>city to allow us, and we're not adding a second floor.

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<v Speaker 2>If we were doing that, it would have been a no,

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<v Speaker 2>a no from the get go. And that's why, you know,

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<v Speaker 2>in your jurisdiction it's a it's a no, just a

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<v Speaker 2>flat out no no. You know, if you were just

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<v Speaker 2>rehabbing that garage, I'm sure they would allow you to

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<v Speaker 2>keep it there, grandfathered in place. But a brand new

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<v Speaker 2>second story on top of it, No, that's going to

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<v Speaker 2>have to fall within the five foot the new five

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<v Speaker 2>foot setback. So the point is they would have allowed

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<v Speaker 2>you to just work with that existing lumber anyway if

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<v Speaker 2>you were just rehabbing that first floor. And so the

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<v Speaker 2>logic is the wood has to be in good shape,

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<v Speaker 2>that's all. It has to be in good shape, and

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<v Speaker 2>especially century old old growth lumber from the region that

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<v Speaker 2>you're building in, actually very likely if it's in good shape,

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<v Speaker 2>it's in good shape and there should be no concerns

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<v Speaker 2>about it. The only thing that has happened to that lumber,

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<v Speaker 2>if it's been protected well from the elements, is that

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<v Speaker 2>it has dried out. And that's what we hope will

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<v Speaker 2>be the case with all lumber in all homes that

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<v Speaker 2>eventually the kiln dried process removes most of the moisture.

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<v Speaker 2>And that's what actually makes wood homes more stable over

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<v Speaker 2>time is when they eventually, you know, fully dry out.

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<v Speaker 2>So answer to your first question shouldn't be a problem.

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<v Speaker 2>Second question, how to get the most out of it.

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<v Speaker 2>You want to take your time. You don't want to

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<v Speaker 2>leave nails in the structure. So my recommendation is not

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<v Speaker 2>going to be that you saws all the studs loose

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<v Speaker 2>and things like that that will leave cut nails inside

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<v Speaker 2>the existing structure. Withdrawing all the fasteners, cleaning all the

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<v Speaker 2>lumber up, so that there's no residual fasteners in the

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<v Speaker 2>lumber is probably your best bet, but the overall process

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<v Speaker 2>of pulling it all down really needs to happen to

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<v Speaker 2>do it efficiently in the order, in the reverse order

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<v Speaker 2>that it went up. And so what this means is

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<v Speaker 2>is very simply, if there are windows or doors that

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<v Speaker 2>you're going to salvage, then those need to be removed

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<v Speaker 2>first because they were the last things to go in.

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<v Speaker 2>Then you're gonna have to go up onto the roof

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<v Speaker 2>and start dismantling the roof sheathing and the roof rafters

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<v Speaker 2>and the ridge beams and work your way back down

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<v Speaker 2>because the way it was built originally was from the

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<v Speaker 2>ground up, the roof being the last thing to go on,

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<v Speaker 2>and so logically speaking, the safest and best for all

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<v Speaker 2>of those framing members is to dismantle it from the

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<v Speaker 2>roof down in reverse order.

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<v Speaker 1>Does that make sense?

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<v Speaker 5>Yes?

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<v Speaker 4>It is, Yes it is. I'm concerned about the weight

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<v Speaker 4>of the beam is about twenty four by thirty seven structure,

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<v Speaker 4>and I don't know if I'm going to be able

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<v Speaker 4>to remove that beam or just wait till they actually

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<v Speaker 4>demolish it. See if I can salvage that yeah.

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<v Speaker 2>I have no doubt. I have no doubt that you're

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<v Speaker 2>going to be able to remove the beam. It's just

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<v Speaker 2>a question of whether you're going to be able to

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<v Speaker 2>do it by yourself. And to remove a beam like that,

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<v Speaker 2>what you're going to want to do is you're going

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<v Speaker 2>to want to temporarily brace it up. You may build

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<v Speaker 2>a temporary wall or set of supports underneath the beam

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<v Speaker 2>in the open clear space while you dismantle it from

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<v Speaker 2>its connections to the rest of the house. And then

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<v Speaker 2>you need to make a clear open slot to be

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<v Speaker 2>able to lower one end of the beam down while

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<v Speaker 2>the other one stays supported. That kind of thing, there's

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<v Speaker 2>a process for that. If it doesn't seem one hundred

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<v Speaker 2>percent clear to you, then have a conversation with your

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<v Speaker 2>general contractor about that and about how to most efficiently

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<v Speaker 2>get that beam out of the wall. But again, with

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<v Speaker 2>no roof above it, you're leaving yourself a lot of

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<v Speaker 2>options and a lot more flexibility. And then you can

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<v Speaker 2>remove wall around it and keep it temporarily braced in

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<v Speaker 2>place and then be able to drop the beam down safely.

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<v Speaker 2>But it's probably not almost guaranteed, not a one man procedure.

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<v Speaker 2>We often will just FYI and then I got to

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<v Speaker 2>go here out. We will often set a beam in

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<v Speaker 2>place like that if we don't have a huge framing

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<v Speaker 2>crew around with a motorized electric lift system, and you

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<v Speaker 2>may want to consider that that may be the easiest way.

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<v Speaker 2>In fact, in theory, you could do that as a

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<v Speaker 2>single man show if you got an electric lift in

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<v Speaker 2>on the slab, got that lift up forked underneath the

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<v Speaker 2>beam so that it is now the support, and now

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<v Speaker 2>you can just dismantle the walls around it. The beam

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<v Speaker 2>is sitting on the lift, it'll transfer its weight onto

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<v Speaker 2>the lift and then with a click of a button

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<v Speaker 2>you just lower it down to the ground and now

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<v Speaker 2>your beam is free and clear. Just a little bit

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<v Speaker 2>of demolition theory from an old framer. Al thanks for

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<v Speaker 2>your call. I'm running late, so let's jump into some

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<v Speaker 2>news and then we'll take some more calls.

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<v Speaker 1>On the other side.

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<v Speaker 6>You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from

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<v Speaker 6>KFI AM six forty.

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<v Speaker 2>Always a pleasure and a privilege to spend some time

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<v Speaker 2>with you on a Sunday morning talking about your home.

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<v Speaker 2>We're talking about getting you outside today and we're going

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<v Speaker 2>to return to that conversation in just a bit. But

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<v Speaker 2>right now I'm taking calls, so I want to go

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<v Speaker 2>back to the phones. Let's talk to Al. I'm sorry,

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<v Speaker 2>Let's talk to Oscar. Oscar. Welcome home, Good.

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<v Speaker 3>Morning, Dean. Thank you for taking my call, Tina, Michelle,

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<v Speaker 3>Miss and Zalez. Thank you for being so helpful. I

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<v Speaker 3>had a leak on a skylight and I called American

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<v Speaker 3>windows to come out, but they only come out only

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<v Speaker 3>if Dave installed it. I've had handyman that came out

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<v Speaker 3>hawked around the windows, around the edges of the window,

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<v Speaker 3>and now the water is still leaking and it's coming

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<v Speaker 3>into the house onto my dry wall. So uh, I'm

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<v Speaker 3>trying to figure out. I've already cleaned out the wheepholes,

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<v Speaker 3>I've cleaned out the window drain tracks, both vacuum and

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<v Speaker 3>blowed them. I sent you an email with the pictures

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<v Speaker 3>on them. I don't know if you have access to that,

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<v Speaker 3>but desperately seeking Susan for help, I.

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<v Speaker 2>Mean speaking from all right, hang on just one second

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<v Speaker 2>you Oh yeah, here's your Oscar, Oscar.

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<v Speaker 1>There you go.

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<v Speaker 2>So this is a weird skylight, Oscar, this is a

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<v Speaker 2>you got a window sitting out with a little wall

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<v Speaker 2>alcove behind it. This skylight is mounted directly to the

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<v Speaker 2>top of a of a window here.

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<v Speaker 3>Yes, that's correct. It's really odd.

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<v Speaker 2>Now now is this did you do this? Is this

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<v Speaker 2>a replacement window? I mean, tell me the story, I

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<v Speaker 2>mean was it? It looks like the structure has always

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<v Speaker 2>kind of accommodated it. What is the story behind this? This?

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<v Speaker 3>This purchased My wife and I purchased our house three

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<v Speaker 3>eight years ago, and it came along with that. We've

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<v Speaker 3>just replaced the windows again now and talking to contractors

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<v Speaker 3>that things should have never been there.

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<v Speaker 1>So yeah, yeah, exactly.

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<v Speaker 2>Now you replaced the windows again, including this skylight above

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<v Speaker 2>or that is still all right?

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah?

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<v Speaker 2>And and how how long ago did you replace this skylight?

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<v Speaker 3>When?

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<v Speaker 1>When when were these windows replaced?

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<v Speaker 3>Two thousand and seven?

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, And it has just started leaking.

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<v Speaker 3>It started leaking about a year or so. And I've

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<v Speaker 3>gone up there and I spread against a stucco thinking

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<v Speaker 3>it's a stucco and it was a repellent so the

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<v Speaker 3>water would not seep in. And then we did the cawking.

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<v Speaker 3>That stopped a little bit, but it continues to leak.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, yeah, you're gonna be chasing this one like a

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<v Speaker 2>dog chasing its tail. My friend, I don't know. Here's

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<v Speaker 2>here's what I can tell you. Okay, anything is possible.

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<v Speaker 2>Anything is possible. So I'm not I'm not going to

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<v Speaker 2>be the guy to tell you that you cannot have

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<v Speaker 2>a skylight above this window setting like this. I wish

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<v Speaker 2>you guys could see this. It's just literally imagined kind

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<v Speaker 2>of a kind of a situation where it's almost like

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<v Speaker 2>a kitchen picture window sticking out from the kitchen sink

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<v Speaker 2>with glass up above that's horizontal. But the point is

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<v Speaker 2>three sides of this is touching stucco. And what I'm

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<v Speaker 2>seeing he is that I'm seeing that this retrofit style

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<v Speaker 2>glass skylight has got it looks like a vinyl and

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<v Speaker 2>or metal curb that's or flashing. That isn't actually going

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<v Speaker 2>into the stucco. It's just up against the stucco, and

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<v Speaker 2>you're relying on calking to keep that seal.

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<v Speaker 1>Right.

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<v Speaker 2>That's problematic in and of itself because water gets inside stucco,

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<v Speaker 2>and water is going to get down inside past the

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<v Speaker 2>window flashing eventually. Especially you probably started to notice it

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<v Speaker 2>because of the age of the window, and at this

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<v Speaker 2>point for as long as it's been there, and the

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<v Speaker 2>heavy rains that we've had in the last couple of

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<v Speaker 2>winters now really starting to saturate stucco. The water in

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<v Speaker 2>the stucco has got to have a place to go,

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<v Speaker 2>and the water in the stucco is bypassing the window

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<v Speaker 2>flashing all together. So I'm just going to tell you

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<v Speaker 2>this and so that everybody can understand when it comes

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<v Speaker 2>to skylights and or any kind of window or element,

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<v Speaker 2>whether it's a fireplace sticking into a stucco wall, whether

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<v Speaker 2>it is a skylight that's you know, partially pushed up

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<v Speaker 2>against stucco, or anything like that. Anytime a plane of

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<v Speaker 2>sorts is intersecting stucco on a house and we've got

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<v Speaker 2>vulnerable room space below it, that thing has to be

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<v Speaker 2>flashed into and underneath the stucco, into and underneath the stucco.

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<v Speaker 2>So the thought now retrofit windows. And I can see

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<v Speaker 2>that you've got retrofit vinyl windows here. Retrofit windows only

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<v Speaker 2>work on a house because we're not disturbing the original

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<v Speaker 2>frame of the original window, which is still flashed into

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<v Speaker 2>the stucco, and the retrofits slide on top and then

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<v Speaker 2>a heavy calking seal is sealed around them, so we

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<v Speaker 2>kind of glue them to the old window frame that's embedded,

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<v Speaker 2>and you know, they save money because you don't have

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<v Speaker 2>to tear up the stucco. But in this situation, this

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<v Speaker 2>was a mistake from the window stallers who retrofit the windows,

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<v Speaker 2>because this never should have been a retrofit situation. This

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<v Speaker 2>is a situation that needed to have stucco removed around

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<v Speaker 2>the three sides of that skylight and an actual metal

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<v Speaker 2>flashing put up underneath the stucco paper, backing up the

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<v Speaker 2>stucco paper so that all the moisture in the stucco

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<v Speaker 2>itself hits that flashing and is transferred to the outside

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<v Speaker 2>over the lip of the skylight flashing. So the point

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<v Speaker 2>is this, everybody flashing is key and not everything. Nothing

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<v Speaker 2>is ever is ever universally everything fool proof, even retrofit

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<v Speaker 2>windows and a horizontally positioned flat retrofit window up against stucco.

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<v Speaker 2>We never want to rely on just caulking to keep

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<v Speaker 2>that to surface waterproof because it ain't gonna work, and

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<v Speaker 2>in this case it is the It is the example

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<v Speaker 2>that proves the lesson so Oscar you can keep a

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<v Speaker 2>skylight there. You can have that window there, it may

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<v Speaker 2>not be that one in particular, but what you really

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<v Speaker 2>need is a stucco contractor to come out and remove

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<v Speaker 2>about six inches of stucco above that skylight around that

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<v Speaker 2>three walled area. Get a good roof z bar flashing.

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<v Speaker 2>We call it Z bar because it's shaped in a

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<v Speaker 2>Z and get it underneath the stucco paper and out

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<v Speaker 2>over the skylight itself, so that all the moisture, not

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<v Speaker 2>only the rain falling from the outside, but the water

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<v Speaker 2>that is collecting inside the stucco itself, all of the

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<v Speaker 2>moisture is being channeled to the outside of the house

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<v Speaker 2>and not dripping down inside. All right, guys, oscar, that's

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<v Speaker 2>the best I can do with that answer, and I

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<v Speaker 2>hope that clarifies that it's gonna leak until that fix

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<v Speaker 2>is put into place.

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<v Speaker 1>Sorry to tell you that, but it's true.

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<v Speaker 2>All right, y'all, We've got to go to a break

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<v Speaker 2>and when we come back, how about a couple more calls.

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<v Speaker 1>Sounds good?

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<v Speaker 6>You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from

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<v Speaker 6>KFI AM six forty.

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<v Speaker 2>Dean Sharp, the house whisper, custom home designer and builder,

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<v Speaker 2>here to help you transform that ordinary house into an

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<v Speaker 2>extraordinary home. Here with you live every weekend right here

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<v Speaker 2>from nine to noon on Sundays and from six to

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<v Speaker 2>eight on Saturday mornings. We're gonna get back to our

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<v Speaker 2>topic of the least expensive ways to get yourself a

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<v Speaker 2>little bit more elbow room, specifically today doing some more

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<v Speaker 2>outdoor living in the most practical and inexpensive ways possible.

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<v Speaker 2>We're coming back to that, but right now I am

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<v Speaker 2>taking calls and I want to get back to the phones.

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<v Speaker 2>Let's talk to Dennis. Hey, Dennis, welcome home.

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<v Speaker 7>Good mornings. I'm sure I'm like a lot of other people.

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<v Speaker 7>The patio is a place where the overflow from the

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<v Speaker 7>garage goes. Moving on to the main question, popcorn ceilings. Yes,

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<v Speaker 7>I have a nineteen eighties house where the cathedrals kind

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<v Speaker 7>of ceiling. The highest part's probably north of twenty feet tall,

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<v Speaker 7>and the bedroom is the same way on the second floor.

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<v Speaker 7>So trying to decide the best way to take the

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<v Speaker 7>popcorn ceiling off or putting new drywall center drive all

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<v Speaker 7>on top and covering out with this new plaster, and

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<v Speaker 7>to throw one more thing into it where the house

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<v Speaker 7>that's old would the would it be worth changing out

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<v Speaker 7>the insulation and the ceiling since there's no attic obviously,

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<v Speaker 7>so would it be worth taking down on the dry

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<v Speaker 7>wall putting in all new insulation And I'm putting up

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<v Speaker 7>drywall from scratch?

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<v Speaker 2>Gotcha all right, my friend? Well three questions rolled into one.

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<v Speaker 2>There of actually two. Okay, popcorn ceilings. You have a

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<v Speaker 2>home built in the nineteen eighties, and that means that

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<v Speaker 2>and there's really no reason to mess with this because

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<v Speaker 2>asbestos was gone from acoustic ceilings in the late seventies

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<v Speaker 2>at the that was the tail end of asbestos. So

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<v Speaker 2>a home built in the nineteen eighties does not have

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<v Speaker 2>asbestos in the popcorn ceiling, in the acoustic ceiling mix,

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<v Speaker 2>So no need to abate, no need to go to

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<v Speaker 2>the cost of all of that, safe to say, safe

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<v Speaker 2>to say that there's no asbestos in that popcorn ceiling. Also,

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<v Speaker 2>the lack of asbestos makes that acoustic popcorn texture very

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<v Speaker 2>soft as a general rule, unless it's been painted over

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<v Speaker 2>eight hundred times with paint, at which point it gets hard.

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<v Speaker 2>But underneath, underneath, it's very soft. Acoustic ceilings with asbestos

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<v Speaker 2>in them, asbestos being a fiber in them, tend to

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<v Speaker 2>be very very hard and rigid and far more difficult

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<v Speaker 2>to remove. If it's a normal eight foot bedroom ceiling

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<v Speaker 2>with a nineteen eighties or later asbestos coating on it,

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<v Speaker 2>typically you could just take a room. You could lay

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<v Speaker 2>down plastic, empty out the room, lay down plastic on

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<v Speaker 2>the floor, and take a Hudson's sprayer with a fine

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<v Speaker 2>mist of water, dampen that ceiling, and a scraper and

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<v Speaker 2>you will find that that stuff comes off pretty dang easily.

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<v Speaker 2>And if you hire an acoustic ceiling removal company, that's

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<v Speaker 2>pretty much exactly what they're going to do. They're going

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<v Speaker 2>to dampen the acoustic and scrape it off and get

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<v Speaker 2>that ceiling clear. Probably the least expensive way to go

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<v Speaker 2>in your situation. You could also encapsulate, meaning that you

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<v Speaker 2>could put up, as you mentioned, another layer of drywall

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<v Speaker 2>to just trap that acoustic in there. But in your situation,

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<v Speaker 2>I usually recommend encapsulation when we've got asbestos in the

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<v Speaker 2>acoustic because encapsulation versus a batement huge cost difference. Encapsulation

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<v Speaker 2>saves big time the money in if we're talking about

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<v Speaker 2>encapsulation versus scraping off the existing stuff, and then you

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<v Speaker 2>know retaping in a little bit of drywall mud to

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<v Speaker 2>float out the smoothness in the ceiling. Generally speaking, it's

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<v Speaker 2>almost always least expensive to just scrape the acoustic and

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<v Speaker 2>then patch up the ceiling with whatever finishing touches are needed,

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<v Speaker 2>versus slapping up a whole new ceiling worth of drywall.

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<v Speaker 2>So encapsulation cheaper than abatement. Removing soft acoustic almost always

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<v Speaker 2>cheaper than encapsulation. That's the general rule of thumb. Now,

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<v Speaker 2>as to whether or not you want to take all

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<v Speaker 2>the drywall down in a vaulted ceiling and reinsulate, that

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<v Speaker 2>is entirely up to you, and whether it's worth it

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<v Speaker 2>to you has to do with your energy bills and

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<v Speaker 2>do you notice it and so on. I am sure

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<v Speaker 2>if the house was built in the eighties, then it

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<v Speaker 2>has sufficient insulation for code in the eighties. Now right now,

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<v Speaker 2>our attic insulation recommendations and requirements, I mean we want

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<v Speaker 2>to shoot to R thirty and not a lot of

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<v Speaker 2>fiberglass hits that in just regular open rafters for a

420
00:26:21.000 --> 00:26:25.799
<v Speaker 2>true vaulted ceiling without an attic. So would that increase

421
00:26:26.079 --> 00:26:29.799
<v Speaker 2>your insulation quality, especially if you put up a denser

422
00:26:29.880 --> 00:26:33.000
<v Speaker 2>insulation either a spray foam insulation would be a no brainer,

423
00:26:33.039 --> 00:26:37.119
<v Speaker 2>but a more dense insulation like a rock mineral insulation.

424
00:26:37.640 --> 00:26:38.720
<v Speaker 1>Yeah, you could.

425
00:26:38.480 --> 00:26:42.599
<v Speaker 2>Increase the insulated value of the ceiling while you're up

426
00:26:42.599 --> 00:26:45.519
<v Speaker 2>there getting the other work done. But again that's a

427
00:26:45.559 --> 00:26:48.880
<v Speaker 2>whole different expense. Now we're removing all the dry wall

428
00:26:48.920 --> 00:26:52.119
<v Speaker 2>and we're essentially putting up new ceiling. You've just got

429
00:26:52.160 --> 00:26:53.880
<v Speaker 2>to figure out whether that's going to be worth it

430
00:26:53.920 --> 00:26:56.559
<v Speaker 2>to you. And the way you get that done, my friend,

431
00:26:56.799 --> 00:27:02.400
<v Speaker 2>is by taking bids, getting multiple estimates, and you know,

432
00:27:04.039 --> 00:27:07.960
<v Speaker 2>comparing that against whatever sweat equity, labor you might have

433
00:27:08.039 --> 00:27:10.000
<v Speaker 2>been thinking. I think at a twenty foot ceiling, you're

434
00:27:10.000 --> 00:27:12.079
<v Speaker 2>probably going to be paying somebody to do it anyway,

435
00:27:12.319 --> 00:27:15.960
<v Speaker 2>So compare all those bids out and make a decision,

436
00:27:16.319 --> 00:27:18.759
<v Speaker 2>because it's not just a one for one, you know,

437
00:27:18.880 --> 00:27:21.440
<v Speaker 2>no brainer this way or that way. You're going to

438
00:27:21.519 --> 00:27:25.880
<v Speaker 2>have to find the value there. Ultimately, is it nice

439
00:27:25.920 --> 00:27:30.240
<v Speaker 2>to have best insulation possible in a ceiling? Of course

440
00:27:30.279 --> 00:27:33.799
<v Speaker 2>it is. If the expense is going to be oh well,

441
00:27:33.839 --> 00:27:35.799
<v Speaker 2>it's gonna by the time we're all said and done,

442
00:27:35.839 --> 00:27:38.160
<v Speaker 2>it's going to cost me ten thousand dollars.

443
00:27:38.640 --> 00:27:39.440
<v Speaker 1>How fast.

444
00:27:39.599 --> 00:27:44.279
<v Speaker 2>Are your energy savings in that room alone going to

445
00:27:44.359 --> 00:27:47.640
<v Speaker 2>repay that ten thousand dollars. It's going to be years

446
00:27:47.680 --> 00:27:51.160
<v Speaker 2>and years and years, honestly, the energy because it's not

447
00:27:51.200 --> 00:27:54.200
<v Speaker 2>like there is no insulation up there. We're just improving

448
00:27:54.240 --> 00:27:57.680
<v Speaker 2>it somewhat. So the energy saving, it's not like it's

449
00:27:57.720 --> 00:28:00.000
<v Speaker 2>going to pay for itself in the first six months.

450
00:27:59.759 --> 00:28:05.319
<v Speaker 2>It won't because energy is pretty cheap relative to the

451
00:28:05.359 --> 00:28:09.200
<v Speaker 2>cost of construction. So those are the things to consider,

452
00:28:09.240 --> 00:28:12.000
<v Speaker 2>my friend, And hopefully now you've got.

453
00:28:11.839 --> 00:28:13.920
<v Speaker 1>A little bit better perspective on it as well.

454
00:28:13.960 --> 00:28:18.160
<v Speaker 2>All Right, when we return one more call, I'm going

455
00:28:18.200 --> 00:28:20.359
<v Speaker 2>to be able to take before we dive back into

456
00:28:20.359 --> 00:28:24.240
<v Speaker 2>our conversation of you getting yourself some more outdoor space.

457
00:28:24.279 --> 00:28:25.720
<v Speaker 1>We'll do that right after.

458
00:28:26.519 --> 00:28:29.839
<v Speaker 6>You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from

459
00:28:29.920 --> 00:28:31.400
<v Speaker 6>KFI AM six forty.

460
00:28:34.440 --> 00:28:39.720
<v Speaker 2>We're talking about saving money on getting more elbow room

461
00:28:39.759 --> 00:28:42.960
<v Speaker 2>in your home by just increasing the amount of time

462
00:28:42.960 --> 00:28:45.240
<v Speaker 2>we spend outside. But the big question is what's it

463
00:28:45.279 --> 00:28:48.119
<v Speaker 2>going to take to get you out there and how

464
00:28:48.160 --> 00:28:52.359
<v Speaker 2>inexpensively can we do it. It's a very very specialized

465
00:28:52.440 --> 00:28:55.359
<v Speaker 2>look at getting outside for the least amount of money,

466
00:28:56.079 --> 00:28:58.599
<v Speaker 2>and in the best possible way, and I'm just guiding

467
00:28:58.640 --> 00:29:00.240
<v Speaker 2>you through it today. We're going to return it that

468
00:29:00.279 --> 00:29:03.119
<v Speaker 2>conversation right after the next news break at the top

469
00:29:03.160 --> 00:29:06.559
<v Speaker 2>of the hour. But right here, last bit before we

470
00:29:06.640 --> 00:29:08.759
<v Speaker 2>hit the top of the hour, I'm taking calls. I

471
00:29:08.799 --> 00:29:12.680
<v Speaker 2>want to take at least one more, and let's talk

472
00:29:12.720 --> 00:29:15.480
<v Speaker 2>to Zach. Hey, Zach, welcome home.

473
00:29:17.000 --> 00:29:19.000
<v Speaker 5>Thank you Dean for taking my call. I appreciate you.

474
00:29:20.440 --> 00:29:20.640
<v Speaker 3>Well.

475
00:29:20.680 --> 00:29:24.839
<v Speaker 5>We've got a family cabin up in the San Diego Mountains,

476
00:29:25.559 --> 00:29:29.039
<v Speaker 5>and about ten years ago we built a outbuilding. It's

477
00:29:29.079 --> 00:29:33.240
<v Speaker 5>a bedroom and a bathroom only, and that house, that

478
00:29:33.279 --> 00:29:36.480
<v Speaker 5>little cabin, that room tends to the water. The hot

479
00:29:36.519 --> 00:29:41.279
<v Speaker 5>water tends to smell like sulfur. Done as much as

480
00:29:41.319 --> 00:29:43.759
<v Speaker 5>we can, it's all off the same water source. A

481
00:29:43.880 --> 00:29:47.160
<v Speaker 5>well goes through a filter and then it splits, and

482
00:29:47.200 --> 00:29:50.480
<v Speaker 5>those to the two different cabins. And we have put

483
00:29:50.839 --> 00:29:53.839
<v Speaker 5>things in it and replaced the little water heater. And

484
00:29:54.200 --> 00:29:56.599
<v Speaker 5>no matter what we do, it's always turns to smell

485
00:29:56.640 --> 00:29:59.000
<v Speaker 5>like sulfur. The hot water out of that little cabin.

486
00:30:00.079 --> 00:30:01.720
<v Speaker 1>Mmmmmmmmmmmm.

487
00:30:02.839 --> 00:30:07.039
<v Speaker 3>Just the hot water, just the hot water, yes, or

488
00:30:07.119 --> 00:30:08.359
<v Speaker 3>the all right?

489
00:30:08.359 --> 00:30:10.640
<v Speaker 1>How new? How new is the water heater? And what

490
00:30:10.720 --> 00:30:13.559
<v Speaker 1>kind of water heater is it. It's a traditional tanked water.

491
00:30:13.440 --> 00:30:18.240
<v Speaker 5>Heater, traditional tank. Actually no, I'm sorry, it's an electric

492
00:30:18.440 --> 00:30:22.240
<v Speaker 5>tank about forty gallons, and we've probably replaced it three

493
00:30:22.279 --> 00:30:26.359
<v Speaker 5>times for several reasons. But no matter. Even after a

494
00:30:26.400 --> 00:30:27.480
<v Speaker 5>new tank, it will.

495
00:30:27.960 --> 00:30:32.960
<v Speaker 2>Produce that all right, So brand new water heater still

496
00:30:33.000 --> 00:30:35.599
<v Speaker 2>get that water smell in that house?

497
00:30:37.039 --> 00:30:37.400
<v Speaker 5>Sure do?

498
00:30:37.599 --> 00:30:37.799
<v Speaker 7>Yeah?

499
00:30:37.920 --> 00:30:39.720
<v Speaker 5>From what way can we call?

500
00:30:39.880 --> 00:30:40.039
<v Speaker 3>Yes?

501
00:30:41.759 --> 00:30:42.720
<v Speaker 1>Hmm? Okay?

502
00:30:43.240 --> 00:30:43.839
<v Speaker 7>Uh?

503
00:30:43.880 --> 00:30:47.119
<v Speaker 2>And and that's an outhouse, I mean an out you know,

504
00:30:47.240 --> 00:30:53.240
<v Speaker 2>a disconnected building from the primary cabin and the same

505
00:30:53.279 --> 00:30:55.799
<v Speaker 2>water supply. And you don't have that problem in the cabin.

506
00:30:55.920 --> 00:30:58.079
<v Speaker 2>It does it happen to be downhill from the cabin.

507
00:31:00.920 --> 00:31:04.319
<v Speaker 5>No, they're about the same level building, maybe just some

508
00:31:05.160 --> 00:31:06.319
<v Speaker 5>four or feat higher.

509
00:31:07.640 --> 00:31:16.240
<v Speaker 1>Okay, all right, all right, so this is a tricky one.

510
00:31:16.359 --> 00:31:21.279
<v Speaker 1>This is a tricky one. Zact. Here's the thing, same

511
00:31:21.359 --> 00:31:23.359
<v Speaker 1>water source, two buildings.

512
00:31:23.759 --> 00:31:27.319
<v Speaker 2>One of them has a sulfur kind of rotten egg

513
00:31:27.480 --> 00:31:32.519
<v Speaker 2>smell going on in the hot water supply. The other

514
00:31:33.799 --> 00:31:37.599
<v Speaker 2>does not. Okay, the main cabin does not, but the

515
00:31:37.640 --> 00:31:38.680
<v Speaker 2>same water supply.

516
00:31:38.960 --> 00:31:39.319
<v Speaker 1>Okay.

517
00:31:40.279 --> 00:31:47.480
<v Speaker 2>As strange as this sound, the almost inevitably what you've

518
00:31:47.519 --> 00:31:50.160
<v Speaker 2>got is and I don't want to freaky out here,

519
00:31:50.440 --> 00:31:55.799
<v Speaker 2>but what you have is a some kind of sulfur

520
00:31:56.160 --> 00:32:01.960
<v Speaker 2>bacteria build up in the second structure in the in

521
00:32:02.000 --> 00:32:04.319
<v Speaker 2>the water line to the second structure. And it makes

522
00:32:04.359 --> 00:32:10.200
<v Speaker 2>sense that it is in the hot water, not the cold. Okay,

523
00:32:11.119 --> 00:32:14.960
<v Speaker 2>it's in the hot water, because heavy sulfur content in.

524
00:32:15.839 --> 00:32:18.400
<v Speaker 1>Water, in you know, well water or water in the.

525
00:32:18.400 --> 00:32:23.680
<v Speaker 2>Area at some point, at some point that sulfur, that

526
00:32:23.720 --> 00:32:31.240
<v Speaker 2>heavy sulfur content in excited by the water heater itself, okay,

527
00:32:32.200 --> 00:32:36.799
<v Speaker 2>is not being completely eliminated by the water heater. Now

528
00:32:36.799 --> 00:32:40.319
<v Speaker 2>you've got a traditional water heater, which means that there's

529
00:32:40.359 --> 00:32:45.240
<v Speaker 2>a self sacrificial anode rod inside the water heater. That

530
00:32:45.319 --> 00:32:48.359
<v Speaker 2>anode rod is one of the things that should be

531
00:32:48.400 --> 00:32:54.400
<v Speaker 2>attracting the sulfur to itself, and and sulfur it corrodes

532
00:32:54.559 --> 00:32:57.119
<v Speaker 2>and eats away at those rods really fast. So one

533
00:32:57.119 --> 00:32:58.759
<v Speaker 2>of the reasons I asked, like, what is it a

534
00:32:58.799 --> 00:33:00.720
<v Speaker 2>new water heater, is it an old water heater it's

535
00:33:00.759 --> 00:33:04.400
<v Speaker 2>a traditional water heater, is that those anode rods can

536
00:33:04.480 --> 00:33:06.680
<v Speaker 2>just go in like in a heartbeat. They can be

537
00:33:07.200 --> 00:33:11.039
<v Speaker 2>eaten away by extra hard well water, especially with sulfur

538
00:33:11.079 --> 00:33:15.319
<v Speaker 2>content and then that sulfur bacteria, and it's not harmful

539
00:33:15.440 --> 00:33:20.079
<v Speaker 2>to humans, right, it just doesn't smell right or taste right.

540
00:33:20.400 --> 00:33:24.319
<v Speaker 2>But that sulfur bacteria builds up on the corrosive layer

541
00:33:24.519 --> 00:33:29.480
<v Speaker 2>of the pipes, of the copper lines and in the

542
00:33:29.519 --> 00:33:34.279
<v Speaker 2>water heater, So can you purge it? Usually what you

543
00:33:34.359 --> 00:33:35.799
<v Speaker 2>have to do is you're going to have to go

544
00:33:35.920 --> 00:33:41.519
<v Speaker 2>to the extent of installing a specific sulfur filtration system

545
00:33:41.720 --> 00:33:46.960
<v Speaker 2>for the outbuilding to catch that so that it goes through.

546
00:33:47.039 --> 00:33:49.960
<v Speaker 2>And we may also have to run a form of

547
00:33:50.039 --> 00:33:54.359
<v Speaker 2>disinfectant through the copper pipes in order to flesh out

548
00:33:54.400 --> 00:33:58.920
<v Speaker 2>as much of the sulfur that has embedded itself corrosively

549
00:33:59.079 --> 00:34:01.359
<v Speaker 2>on the wall of the salt of the copper pipes,

550
00:34:01.400 --> 00:34:04.519
<v Speaker 2>which itself is not great for the pipes. Again, not

551
00:34:04.640 --> 00:34:09.760
<v Speaker 2>a problem for you, but almost inevitably, almost inevitably, what

552
00:34:09.760 --> 00:34:14.480
<v Speaker 2>you're dealing with is some layer of sulfur bacteria that

553
00:34:14.679 --> 00:34:19.519
<v Speaker 2>thrives once it has corroded the magnesium anode rod in

554
00:34:19.559 --> 00:34:23.800
<v Speaker 2>a water heater, and then it starts attacking the walls

555
00:34:23.880 --> 00:34:26.960
<v Speaker 2>of the pipes. And so it may at this point

556
00:34:27.039 --> 00:34:32.880
<v Speaker 2>unfortunately be systemic in that, but there are ways still

557
00:34:33.119 --> 00:34:35.519
<v Speaker 2>of purging it. So if the and I would, I

558
00:34:35.559 --> 00:34:39.559
<v Speaker 2>would act on that immediately so as to prevent any

559
00:34:39.599 --> 00:34:42.679
<v Speaker 2>further corrosion of the copper pipes and to get the

560
00:34:42.719 --> 00:34:46.000
<v Speaker 2>taste of the water back normal. Again, the fact that

561
00:34:46.039 --> 00:34:49.840
<v Speaker 2>it's coming through the hot water system is the chief

562
00:34:51.039 --> 00:34:55.920
<v Speaker 2>indicating diagnostic there, because if it's not in the cold

563
00:34:56.360 --> 00:35:01.079
<v Speaker 2>then it is definitely, in my opinion, backia based. And

564
00:35:01.119 --> 00:35:04.039
<v Speaker 2>I know it sounds gross and weird, but again, this

565
00:35:04.119 --> 00:35:07.039
<v Speaker 2>is not a bacteria that's harmful for you drinking the water.

566
00:35:07.119 --> 00:35:10.119
<v Speaker 2>It is just the nature of it attacking the copper

567
00:35:10.159 --> 00:35:13.719
<v Speaker 2>pipes on the hot water side of things. So a

568
00:35:13.840 --> 00:35:18.320
<v Speaker 2>repipe for hot might be in order to abandon those

569
00:35:18.360 --> 00:35:22.480
<v Speaker 2>other lines just the hot and also a sulfur protective

570
00:35:22.480 --> 00:35:26.039
<v Speaker 2>filter system to be added to the water heater. How

571
00:35:26.079 --> 00:35:29.239
<v Speaker 2>it happened, why it happened to the outbuilding and hasn't

572
00:35:29.719 --> 00:35:33.559
<v Speaker 2>been a struggle for the main cabin I do not know.

573
00:35:33.840 --> 00:35:36.159
<v Speaker 2>I do not know how to explain that. All I

574
00:35:36.159 --> 00:35:39.039
<v Speaker 2>can tell you is that when we get that result,

575
00:35:39.039 --> 00:35:44.159
<v Speaker 2>there is usually only one cause of it taking place,

576
00:35:44.280 --> 00:35:46.960
<v Speaker 2>and it sounds like it's happening to you, my friend.

577
00:35:48.000 --> 00:35:50.000
<v Speaker 2>That's the best I can do right now, and I'm

578
00:35:50.000 --> 00:35:53.159
<v Speaker 2>out of time, Zach, so give that a look. You

579
00:35:53.199 --> 00:35:56.199
<v Speaker 2>may want to call a water expert in to just

580
00:35:56.719 --> 00:35:59.480
<v Speaker 2>test some of the water and verify what it is

581
00:35:59.480 --> 00:36:02.159
<v Speaker 2>that I'm talking talking about before you go to any

582
00:36:02.559 --> 00:36:05.480
<v Speaker 2>extreme measures with the rest of the plumbing. That's the

583
00:36:05.559 --> 00:36:08.039
<v Speaker 2>best advice that I can give you. All right, y'all,

584
00:36:08.719 --> 00:36:11.519
<v Speaker 2>when we return, we're going to go back outside as

585
00:36:11.559 --> 00:36:14.960
<v Speaker 2>inexpensively as possible and make your time in the out

586
00:36:15.000 --> 00:36:18.719
<v Speaker 2>of doors just beyond your doors of your house as

587
00:36:18.840 --> 00:36:24.119
<v Speaker 2>a pleasant and elbow space clearing as possible without draining

588
00:36:24.320 --> 00:36:27.280
<v Speaker 2>your bank account. And we will do that all right

589
00:36:27.320 --> 00:36:29.800
<v Speaker 2>after we get the news. You are listening to Dean Sharp,

590
00:36:29.880 --> 00:36:33.880
<v Speaker 2>the House Whisperer on KFI. This has been Home with

591
00:36:34.039 --> 00:36:37.280
<v Speaker 2>Dean Sharp, the House whisper Tune into the live broadcast

592
00:36:37.320 --> 00:36:40.760
<v Speaker 2>on KFI AM six forty every Saturday morning from six

593
00:36:40.800 --> 00:36:43.880
<v Speaker 2>to eight Pacific time and every Sunday morning from nine

594
00:36:43.920 --> 00:36:47.480
<v Speaker 2>to noon Pacific time, or anytime on demand on the

595
00:36:47.519 --> 00:36:49.119
<v Speaker 2>iHeartRadio app.
