WEBVTT

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome to the deep dive. Today, we're plunging into a

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<v Speaker 1>topic that might seem a little intimidating at first, but

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<v Speaker 1>trust me, it's incredibly accessible and empowering. We're talking about

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<v Speaker 1>hacking electronics, and before that word conjures images of complex

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<v Speaker 1>code or maybe illicit activities, let's clarify here, it means

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<v Speaker 1>something far more approachable, hands on and genuinely.

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<v Speaker 2>Created exactly our source material, hacking electronics an illustrated DIY

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<v Speaker 2>guide for makers and hobbyists. It really redefines hacking as simply,

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<v Speaker 2>we'll just do it. It's about giving you the power

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<v Speaker 2>to experiment, to build, to modify electronic devices without needing

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<v Speaker 2>a formal engineering degree. The core idea is really to

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<v Speaker 2>demystify what often feels like a total black box of

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<v Speaker 2>circuits and components, and.

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<v Speaker 1>That's our mission today. We're going to extract the most

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<v Speaker 1>important nuggets of knowledge from this fantastic guide, offering you

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<v Speaker 1>a shortcut kind of to becoming truly well informed in

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<v Speaker 1>the world of electronics. I think surprising facts, practical insights,

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<v Speaker 1>and enough humor to keep you hooked. So if you

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<v Speaker 1>ever wanted to understand how gadgets work or maybe even

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<v Speaker 1>build your own. This deep dive is definitely for you, Okay,

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<v Speaker 1>so let's unpack that core philosophy. Just do it.

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<v Speaker 2>The guide really emphasizes learning from your mistakes. It encourages

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<v Speaker 2>you to try things out first, see what happens, and

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<v Speaker 2>then worry about the deep theory later. It's all about experimentation,

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<v Speaker 2>and that's well.

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<v Speaker 1>It's a revolutionary approach, right, especially in a field that

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<v Speaker 1>often seems highly specialized and intimidating. If we connect this

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<v Speaker 1>to the bigger picture, it's really about breaking down those

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<v Speaker 1>barriers to entry. Knowledge in this context is most valuable

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<v Speaker 1>when you can actually apply it, even if it's through

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<v Speaker 1>trial and error. You'll learn so much more by physically

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<v Speaker 1>building a circuit that maybe doesn't work at first than

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<v Speaker 1>by just reading a textbook. I couldn't agree more so.

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<v Speaker 1>Once you're ready to just do it, where do you

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<v Speaker 1>even get the stuff to hack? The guide points out

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<v Speaker 1>that most component purchases nowadays happen online.

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<v Speaker 2>Absolutely yeah, I think to sites like Mouser, Digikey, Spark,

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<v Speaker 2>fun A to Fruit. These are your big online component supermarkets.

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<v Speaker 2>Basically you'll find pretty much everything you need there, usually

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<v Speaker 2>with good descriptions and data sheets too.

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<v Speaker 1>Now, if you're in a pinch need something like right now,

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<v Speaker 1>you might find brick and mortar stores, but yeah, their

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<v Speaker 1>range is often pretty limited and prices are usually higher.

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<v Speaker 1>But here's a secret weapon for hackers. Online auction sites

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<v Speaker 1>like eBay.

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<v Speaker 2>Oh, eBay is a gold mine for the adventurous. Seriously,

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<v Speaker 2>it's fantastic for unusual components like specific laser modules or

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<v Speaker 2>say high power LEDs, and especially for bulk buying. You

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<v Speaker 2>can often get things incredibly cheap, often directly from manufacturers

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<v Speaker 2>or suppliers in the Far East. Just a quick heads

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<v Speaker 2>up though sometimes these components might not be shall we

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<v Speaker 2>say grade A, so read descriptions carefully and maybe don't

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<v Speaker 2>be too surprised if you get a few dead on

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<v Speaker 2>arrival items. That's just part of the low cost game.

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<v Speaker 1>And speaking of low costs, the ultimate hackers trick. Scavenging

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<v Speaker 1>low cost consumer items can be amazing donors of components

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<v Speaker 1>really amazing. We're talking old flashlights, broken fans, solar garden lights,

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<v Speaker 1>computer speakers.

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<v Speaker 2>Nice power supplies, even.

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<v Speaker 1>Old radio receivers. You can often extract motors, led arrays,

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<v Speaker 1>switch is perfectly good wires for far less than buying

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<v Speaker 1>the raw parts. It's truly sustainable hacking.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, it really is.

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<v Speaker 1>So you've gathered your treasures, what tools do you actually

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<v Speaker 1>need to start putting things together? The good news is

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<v Speaker 1>it's surprisingly.

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<v Speaker 2>Little, honestly. Yeah, you can get started with just maybe

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<v Speaker 2>four main things. A multimeter, basic soldering equipment that's an iron,

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<v Speaker 2>some solder and a stand, pliers, snips, and a couple

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<v Speaker 2>of screwdrivers. The advice is always to start inexpensive. You

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<v Speaker 2>wouldn't learn violin on a stratuvarius, right, Get comfortable with

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<v Speaker 2>the basics before you invest in the pro gear.

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<v Speaker 1>That makes total sense. And when it comes to that multimeter,

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<v Speaker 1>what are the absolutely essentials? They're often crammed with functions

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<v Speaker 1>you might not need right away.

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<v Speaker 2>For getting into electronics, you really only need four key

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<v Speaker 2>functions DC volts, DC current resistance, and maybe most importantly,

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<v Speaker 2>a continuity test. That continuity test is your quick is

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<v Speaker 2>this wire connected check? It usually just beeps simple. All

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<v Speaker 2>the other bills and whistles mostly fluff you'll rarely use

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<v Speaker 2>when you're just starting out, okay, And.

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<v Speaker 1>A crucial prototyping tool solderless bread boards. These are incredibly

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<v Speaker 1>useful for quickly trying out designs without any permanent connections.

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<v Speaker 2>Right exactly. You just poke component leads into the sockets

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<v Speaker 2>ye and tiny metal clips underneath connect the holes in rows.

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<v Speaker 2>It's perfect for rapid prototyping and testing super fast.

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<v Speaker 1>Nice. Now about wire, you'll primarily encounter a couple of types.

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<v Speaker 1>There's solid core or hookup wire that's best for those

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<v Speaker 1>bread boards.

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<v Speaker 2>Right. Yeah, it's a single strand doesn't bunch up, makes

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<v Speaker 2>it easy to plug in and.

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<v Speaker 1>Approchip use different colors red for positive, black for negative,

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<v Speaker 1>yellow for other connections. It makes your project so much

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<v Speaker 1>easier to understand at a glance.

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<v Speaker 2>Definitely. And then you have multi core wire that's great

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<v Speaker 2>for more flexible connections like linking an amplifier to a loudspeaker.

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<v Speaker 2>But for audio you'll often see screamed. This is crucial.

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<v Speaker 2>It has an inner core surrounded by an outer mesh

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<v Speaker 2>screen which acts as a shield against electrical noise think

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<v Speaker 2>annoying mans hum from messing with your delicate signals. It's

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<v Speaker 2>like a little Faraday cage around your audio.

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<v Speaker 1>Right, keeps it clean. Okay, stripping wire that's a fundamental skill.

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<v Speaker 1>You can use dedicated wire scrippers, sure, but with practice

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<v Speaker 1>you can do it just as well with a good

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<v Speaker 1>pair of pliers and snips.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, the key is finding that sweet spot. You grip

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<v Speaker 2>the wire with pliers, then gently drip the insulation with

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<v Speaker 2>snips and just pull it off. Practice makes perfect, Otherwise

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<v Speaker 2>you might cut the wire itself or maybe not get

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<v Speaker 2>all the insulation off cleanly.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, let's get to the fun part putting things together.

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<v Speaker 1>The simplest way to join wires is just twisting the

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<v Speaker 1>bear ends together.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, that works best for multi core wire, and if

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<v Speaker 2>you twist it properly, neatly, it can actually make a

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<v Speaker 2>surprisingly reliable connection for simple stuff.

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<v Speaker 1>But the main skill for serious electronics hacking is definitely soldering.

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<v Speaker 2>Ah yes, soldering, And this brings up a critical point safety.

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<v Speaker 2>You're melting at pretty high temperatures, right, and the fumes

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<v Speaker 2>aren't great for your lungs, so always always put the

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<v Speaker 2>iron back in its stand when you're not actively using it.

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<v Speaker 2>Good point were safety glasses, because molten solder blobs can

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<v Speaker 2>flick up seriously if you get a burn, run it

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<v Speaker 2>under cold water immediately, and most importantly, solder in a

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<v Speaker 2>well ventilated room, ideally with a fume extractor. It's really

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<v Speaker 2>worth the small investment for.

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<v Speaker 1>Your health absolutely safety first. Once you have those precautions down,

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<v Speaker 1>the technique itself is pretty straightforward. You can flow solder

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<v Speaker 1>into a twisted knot of wires, or.

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<v Speaker 2>For a cleaner joint, you can attend each wire and

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<v Speaker 2>first just put a little solder on each bare wire.

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<v Speaker 2>Then hold them side by side, heath them both with

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<v Speaker 2>the iron, and apply a bit more solder to join them.

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<v Speaker 2>The solder flows towards the heat, creating a nice solid connection.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, so once you've made a connection, how do you

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<v Speaker 1>actually test it? Make sure it's good. This is where

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<v Speaker 1>your multimeter comes in.

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<v Speaker 2>Handy again, right, Nearly all multimeters have a continuity mode.

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<v Speaker 2>It'll beep when the probes touch, indicating a good electrical path.

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<v Speaker 2>You can use this to check wires, check circuit board tracks,

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<v Speaker 2>and even identify common problems like dry joints where the

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<v Speaker 2>solder hasn't flowed properly, making a poor connection, or tiny

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<v Speaker 2>cracks in a circuit board and.

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<v Speaker 1>The dry joint is easy to fix.

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<v Speaker 2>Usually, yeah, just reapply heat and maybe a little fresh solder.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, let's put these basic skills into action. A practical

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<v Speaker 1>build from the book A simple computer fan fume extractor.

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<v Speaker 1>Its purpose is exactly what it sounds like, directing those

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<v Speaker 1>solder fumes away from your face.

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<v Speaker 2>And this is where understanding those seemingly intimidating schematic diagrams

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<v Speaker 2>really starts to pay off. They might look like I

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<v Speaker 2>don't know, squiggly lines at first, but they follow simple

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<v Speaker 2>logical conventions. Positive voltages usually at the top. The flow

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<v Speaker 2>of electricity generally moves from left to right power source

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<v Speaker 2>on the left. Components are clearly named S one for switch,

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<v Speaker 2>R one for resistor, D one for diode, and their

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<v Speaker 2>values are always indicated. Once you learn to read a schematic,

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<v Speaker 2>it's like having a blueprint for any electronic project. It

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<v Speaker 2>opens things up.

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<v Speaker 1>So for this fume extractor, you start by carefully stripping

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<v Speaker 1>the power supply leads. Crucially, make sure that power supply

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<v Speaker 1>is unplugged first, don't want any.

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<v Speaker 2>Sparks definitely unplugged.

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<v Speaker 1>Then use your multimeter on its DC voltage range to

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<v Speaker 1>identify the polarity of the leads. Usually the positive is

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<v Speaker 1>marked somehow, maybe a stripe.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, or the guide mentions a solid line above a

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<v Speaker 2>dotted line symbol sometimes right.

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<v Speaker 1>Once you know which is positive, you solder that lead

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<v Speaker 1>to one side of a switch and the fans positive

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<v Speaker 1>lead to the other side of the switch. Okay, the

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<v Speaker 1>fans negative lead goes directly to the power supplies. Negative

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<v Speaker 1>insulate all your bare connections, maybe with heat rink, tubing

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<v Speaker 1>or electrical tape. Plug it in, and your fans show

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<v Speaker 1>word to life when you flip the switch.

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<v Speaker 2>Nice A great first project. Practical too.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, now we've got our hands dirty with some practical stuff.

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<v Speaker 1>Let's dive into the essential components and the fundamental theories

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<v Speaker 1>that make all this possible. Understanding these is the foundation

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<v Speaker 1>for building anything interesting.

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<v Speaker 2>Indeed, it's not just about memorizing what a component does,

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<v Speaker 2>but understanding why it does it and why it matters

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<v Speaker 2>to your overall circuit. That foundational knowledge really boosts your

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<v Speaker 2>critical thinking, helps you troubleshoot when things inevitably don't work.

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<v Speaker 2>Is planned first time?

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, we'll start by identifying some of the most common

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<v Speaker 1>electronic components you'll find in almost any starter kit. First up, resistors. Yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>their purpose is simple, right, they resist the flow.

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<v Speaker 2>Of current exactly. They come in different physical sizes for

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<v Speaker 2>different power ratings. But those little point two five watt

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<v Speaker 2>resistors are your general purpose workhourses. They have those colorful

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<v Speaker 2>bands which are actually a code.

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<v Speaker 1>The color code Yeah, black.

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<v Speaker 2>Is zero, brown one, red, two, and so on. You

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<v Speaker 2>need to learn that sequence. The first two bands give

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<v Speaker 2>you digits, the third is a multiplier the number of

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<v Speaker 2>zeros to add, and the final gold or silver band

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<v Speaker 2>indicates tolerance how precise it is.

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<v Speaker 1>And besides fixed resistors, they're also variable.

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<v Speaker 2>Resistors right like potentiometer or pots. You'll recognize them as

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<v Speaker 2>volume controls on old radios, things like that.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, got it, learn the code next.

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<v Speaker 2>Capacitors capacitors. Think of them as tiny temporary batteries. They

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<v Speaker 2>store an electrical charge and can release it very quickly.

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<v Speaker 2>They're often used for decoupling or smoothing, basically filtering out

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<v Speaker 2>unwonted noise or instability in a circuit's power supply. You'll

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<v Speaker 2>see them rated in ferrouds, though usually microferrad nanoferads NF

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<v Speaker 2>or picoferads PF much smaller units.

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<v Speaker 1>And there's a warning about some types.

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<v Speaker 2>Yes, a crucial detail. Electrolytic capacitors. The can shaped ones

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<v Speaker 2>usually are polarized, meaning they have a positive and negative lead.

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<v Speaker 2>The longer lead is usually positive and the negative side

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<v Speaker 2>always has a stripe or marking, and they have maximum

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<v Speaker 2>voltage ratings. Exceed that voltage well, the book says, spectacular failure.

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<v Speaker 2>They can pop quite dramatically, so watch the polarity and voltage.

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<v Speaker 1>You've been warned. Okay, then we have diodes.

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<v Speaker 2>Diodes. These are like one way valves for electricity. Current

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<v Speaker 2>flows in only one direction. They're often used to protect

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<v Speaker 2>sensitive components from reverse voltage, which can instantly kill some parts.

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<v Speaker 2>You'll identify them by a strap at one end that

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<v Speaker 2>marks the cathode the negative side. The other end is

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<v Speaker 2>the anode positive and related.

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<v Speaker 1>To diodes LEDs light emitting diodes.

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<v Speaker 2>Of course LEDs they light up obviously, but they're sensitive

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<v Speaker 2>little things, very sensitive. You must use a resistor in

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<v Speaker 2>series with an LED to limit the current always or

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<v Speaker 2>else or it will burn out almost instantly. Poof gone.

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<v Speaker 2>And because they're diodes, polarity matters. Get the anode and

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<v Speaker 2>cathode reversed and it simply won't light up. No harm

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<v Speaker 2>done usually but no light either.

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<v Speaker 1>Right current limiting resistor check polarity. Got it. Moving to

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<v Speaker 1>something a bit more complex. Transistors.

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<v Speaker 2>These sound important, they are truly the workhorses of modern electronics.

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<v Speaker 2>Think of them as electronic switches. A very small current

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<v Speaker 2>going into one lid can control a much bigger current

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<v Speaker 2>flowing through the other two. The most common type you'll

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<v Speaker 2>encounter first is probably and NPN bipolar transistor. It has

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<v Speaker 2>three leads, emitter, collector, and base. Their physical size generally

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<v Speaker 2>gives you a rough hint about how much current they

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<v Speaker 2>can handle. Bigger means more current.

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<v Speaker 1>Usually okay, a tiny current controls a big current.

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<v Speaker 2>And if you want specifics, then you look at the

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<v Speaker 2>data sheet. Data sheets provide all the details for a

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<v Speaker 2>specific part number, including something called dc current gain often

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<v Speaker 2>written as HFE or beta. This is essential to the

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<v Speaker 2>multiplier how much the transistor amplifies the base current. For example,

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<v Speaker 2>an HFE of one hundred means if you put say

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<v Speaker 2>one milli ampier into the base, it will allow one

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<v Speaker 2>hundred million ampiers of collector current to flow.

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<v Speaker 1>That's the amplification okay, amplification factor. What about mossfets?

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<v Speaker 2>Are they similar, similar concept, but generally even more powerful.

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<v Speaker 2>Mossfets or metal oxide semiconductor field effect transistors.

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<v Speaker 1>That's mouthful, it is.

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<v Speaker 2>They amplify current even more efficiently. An incredibly tiny current

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<v Speaker 2>or sometimes just a voltage change on the gate lead

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<v Speaker 2>controls a much much larger current through the drain and

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<v Speaker 2>source leads. N channel mossfets are the most common, and

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<v Speaker 2>what's really useful for hobbyists are logic level mossfets. These

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<v Speaker 2>are designed specifically to be controlled directly by the low

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<v Speaker 2>volted signals from micro controllers like an Arduino five volts

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<v Speaker 2>or even three point three volts.

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<v Speaker 1>Ah, so you don't need extra circuitry to switch big

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<v Speaker 1>things exactly.

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<v Speaker 2>It's game changing for controlling motors or high power LEDs

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<v Speaker 2>directly from your micro controller.

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<v Speaker 1>Cool. And then we get two integrated circuits or ICs

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<v Speaker 1>tips right.

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<v Speaker 2>ICs. These are literally entire circuits crammed onto a tiny

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<v Speaker 2>piece of silicon. Think of the super versatile five five

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<v Speaker 2>fifty five timer chip or operational amplifiers micro controllers themselves

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<v Speaker 2>that convince a huge amount of functionality into one small,

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<v Speaker 2>usually black package with pins.

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<v Speaker 1>And finally, quick mention of surface mount components SMDs.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, SMDs. These are the super tiny versions of resistors, capacitors, ICs, everything.

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<v Speaker 2>They're designed for automated machines, soldering onto the surface of

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<v Speaker 2>circuit boards, not through holes. While the book focuses on

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<v Speaker 2>conventional through hole components, the ones with wires that you

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<v Speaker 2>poke through holes, it's good to know SMDs exist.

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<v Speaker 1>Is there everywhere?

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<v Speaker 2>Now, everywhere in modern devices. Don't be afraid to experiment

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<v Speaker 2>with them Eventually, maybe with adapters or careful soldering as

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<v Speaker 2>your skills grow.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, so we know the basic building blocks. But what

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<v Speaker 1>does this all mean for understanding how electricity itself works.

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<v Speaker 1>Let's talk about the big three. We're talking about current, resistance,

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<v Speaker 1>and voltage.

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<v Speaker 2>Yeah, the fundamentals. I often use the river analogy for these.

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<v Speaker 2>It seems to help. Current measured in amps a is

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<v Speaker 2>like the amount of water flowing past a point per second.

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<v Speaker 2>It's the flow of electrical charge. Resistance measured in omes

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<v Speaker 2>is like a constriction in that river, something narrowing the

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<v Speaker 2>channel and making it harder for water to flow. It

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<v Speaker 2>impedes the current and voltage measured in volts v. That's

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<v Speaker 2>like the pressure or the drop in height the force

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<v Speaker 2>pushing the water along. Crucially, voltage is always relative. It's

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<v Speaker 2>a potential difference between two points, not an absolute value.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, Flow, restriction, pressure, makes sense. Now here's the absolute

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<v Speaker 1>foundational concept for all of electronics, something the book calls

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<v Speaker 1>truly revolutionary Ohm's law. This tells you how current, voltage,

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<v Speaker 1>and resistance are all interconnected exactly.

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<v Speaker 2>This is hands down the single most useful thing you

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<v Speaker 2>can know about electronics. Memorize it, understand it. It's expressed

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<v Speaker 2>simply as I equals VR current I equals voltage V

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<v Speaker 2>divided by resistance are So if you have say ten

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<v Speaker 2>volts pushing through a one hundred.

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<v Speaker 1>Ohm resistor, it just divided by one hundred is.

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<v Speaker 2>View point one amps for one hundred millionams m a.

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<v Speaker 2>That's the current that will flow. Master this relationship and

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<v Speaker 2>you'll avoid so many common beginner mistakes like burning out

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<v Speaker 2>LEDs because you forgot the resistor. It's truly the Rosetta

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<v Speaker 2>stone of basic electronics.

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<v Speaker 1>I will VR. Got it. And finally, power.

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<v Speaker 2>Watts right, Power measured in watts W is all about

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<v Speaker 2>the rate at which energy is trans formed, usually into

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<v Speaker 2>heat and electronics. It's calculated as peiv row power equals

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<v Speaker 2>current times voltage, or using Ohm's law, you can also

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<v Speaker 2>calculate it as P equals V two R multi square

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<v Speaker 2>divided by resistance When you're selecting components, especially resistors or

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<v Speaker 2>transistors that handle significant current, you must check their maximum power.

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<v Speaker 1>Ratings to make sure they don't overheat.

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<v Speaker 2>Exactly to ensure they can handle the expected heat dissipation

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<v Speaker 2>without burning up.

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<v Speaker 1>And power explains them everyday things too.

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<v Speaker 2>Definitely think about it. An FM radio might use what

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<v Speaker 2>twenty mili loots point zero two w tiny amount of power.

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<v Speaker 2>An electric kettle, on the other hand, uses maybe three

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<v Speaker 2>thousand watts, a huge difference. That massive difference in power

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<v Speaker 2>explains why you don't find battery powered kettles, right. The

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<v Speaker 2>batteries just couldn't supply that much energy safely or for

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<v Speaker 2>very long without overheating or dying almost instantly.

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<v Speaker 1>That makes perfect sense. Okay, so we know the components,

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<v Speaker 1>the fundamentals like Ohm's law and power. How do you

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<v Speaker 1>read the blueprints for a project? We touched on schematics,

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<v Speaker 1>but let's reinforce that understanding how to read this schematic

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<v Speaker 1>diagram is your key to unlocking endless projects.

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<v Speaker 2>It really is, and it's not as scary as it looks.

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<v Speaker 2>Remember those simple conventions. Higher voltages usually drawn at the top,

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<v Speaker 2>ground or negative at the bottom. The general signal flow

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<v Speaker 2>or action happens from left to right. Consistent naming for

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<v Speaker 2>components B one for battery, S one for switch, R one,

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<v Speaker 2>R two for resistors, D one for diodes, C one

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<v Speaker 2>for capacitor, and so on, and their values like one

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<v Speaker 2>hundred day ten five V are clearly noted right next

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<v Speaker 2>to them. Once you grasp these basics, you can look

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<v Speaker 2>at almost any circuit diagram and start to figure out

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<v Speaker 2>what it's supposed to do. It really simplifies everything.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, with those foundational concepts under our belts, let's explore

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<v Speaker 1>how they play out in actual hacks and projects. Let's

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<v Speaker 1>show you exactly what you can build, because that's where

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<v Speaker 1>the real excitement begins.

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<v Speaker 2>Right absolutely, this section really answers the question how do

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<v Speaker 2>these theoretical principles translate into real world functionality. It's often

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<v Speaker 2>in these practical applications that surprising interactions emerge when you

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<v Speaker 2>start com binding different components in clever ways.

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<v Speaker 1>Let's start with a surprisingly simple demonstration of Ohm's law

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<v Speaker 1>and power in action making resistor get hot deliberately. If

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<v Speaker 1>you connect a common one hundred zero zero point twenty

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<v Speaker 1>five want resistor across a six vu bla battery pack.

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<v Speaker 1>The power calculation PEKE two R gives you six times

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<v Speaker 1>six divided by one hundred, which is point three.

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<v Speaker 2>To six watts, and the resistor is only rated FORER

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<v Speaker 2>point twenty five watts exactly.

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<v Speaker 1>It exceeds the resistors rating. The source cautions it will

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<v Speaker 1>get noticeably hot around fifty degree C or one hundred

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<v Speaker 1>and twenty two degrees fahrenheit. It's a quick way to

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<v Speaker 1>physically feel power dissipation, and for hobbyist hacking, the book

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<v Speaker 1>notes it often won't break immediately. That would be a

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<v Speaker 1>terrible design for a commercial product that needs reliability. Highlights

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<v Speaker 1>the difference in.

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<v Speaker 2>Thinking right good practical demo. And you can also use

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<v Speaker 2>resistors more constructively, like to divide voltage. This is incredibly useful.

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<v Speaker 2>A variable resistor like a trimpo or a potentiometer can

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<v Speaker 2>be wired up as a voltage divider. Basically, you apply

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<v Speaker 2>of woltage across its outer terminals, and the middle wiper

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<v Speaker 2>terminal gives you a variable voltage between zero and the

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<v Speaker 2>input voltage depending on where you turn the knobber screw

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<v Speaker 2>like a volume control, exactly how volume controls work in

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<v Speaker 2>many audio circuits. They divide the audio signal voltage before

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<v Speaker 2>it gets amplified.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, let's focus on LEDs again because they're so common

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<v Speaker 1>and so much fun to work with. To stop an

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<v Speaker 1>LED from burning out, we said you must use a

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<v Speaker 1>series resistor always. For example, with a typical red LED,

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<v Speaker 1>which might have a forward voltage drop of a round

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<v Speaker 1>two V and a six V supply, if you want

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<v Speaker 1>about fifteen million amps point zero one five A if current,

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<v Speaker 1>you'd calculate the resistor value using Ome's law r V

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<v Speaker 1>supply of v led I. So six V two V

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<v Speaker 1>point zero one five A.

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<v Speaker 2>That's four V zero point zero one five A, which

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<v Speaker 2>is about two hundred and sixty seven oms.

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<v Speaker 1>Right. Since two hundred and sixty seven OMS isn't a

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<v Speaker 1>standard value, you'd use the nearest standard value that's higher.

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<v Speaker 1>Maybe you have two seventy ohm or three thirty erter resistor.

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<v Speaker 2>Just to be safe exactly, and here's that crucial point

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<v Speaker 2>again worth repeating. If you're lighting multiple LEDs in parallel

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<v Speaker 2>from the same voltage source, always use a separate series

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<v Speaker 2>resistor for each individual LED.

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<v Speaker 1>Don't connect them all to just one resistor.

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<v Speaker 2>No. If you do that, the LED with the slightly

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<v Speaker 2>lowest forward voltage will naturally draw more current, It'll hog

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<v Speaker 2>the current, it might burn out, and then the others

403
00:20:15.960 --> 00:20:19.079
<v Speaker 2>might follow in a cascade of failure. Each LED needs

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<v Speaker 2>its own personal current limitter.

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<v Speaker 1>Got it one resistor per LED in parallel? Okay, when

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<v Speaker 1>selecting the right LED? What else matters?

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<v Speaker 2>Well? Different colors obviously have slightly different forward voltages. Brightness

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<v Speaker 2>is a factor measured in MILLICANDELA or MCD. Viewing angle

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<v Speaker 2>matters to how wide the beam of light is, and

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<v Speaker 2>for mixing colors you can get RGB LEDs, which basically

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<v Speaker 2>have a red, green, and blue LED in one package.

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<v Speaker 1>What about really bright ones high lower LEDs, like for

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<v Speaker 1>flashlights or room lighting?

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<v Speaker 2>Right for those like a one? What white LED? A

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<v Speaker 2>simple series resistor isn't very efficient. It would waste a

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<v Speaker 2>lot of energy as heat itself. Instead, you'd typically use

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<v Speaker 2>a dedicated constant current dry circuit. And I see like

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<v Speaker 2>the M three seventeen, which is actually a voltage regulator,

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<v Speaker 2>can be cleverly configured to act as a constant current source.

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<v Speaker 2>It's much more efficient. It sets the current using just

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<v Speaker 2>a single resistor value, regardless of small changes in supply

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<v Speaker 2>voltage or LED temperature.

423
00:21:14.519 --> 00:21:17.240
<v Speaker 1>And if you don't know the forward voltage of a

424
00:21:17.279 --> 00:21:19.559
<v Speaker 1>specific LED you salvaged, you.

425
00:21:19.440 --> 00:21:23.559
<v Speaker 2>Can measure it practically. The book suggests using a variable resistor,

426
00:21:23.599 --> 00:21:27.279
<v Speaker 2>a power supply, and your multimeter. You slowly increase the

427
00:21:27.279 --> 00:21:30.160
<v Speaker 2>current through the LED while measuring it with the multimeter

428
00:21:30.240 --> 00:21:33.000
<v Speaker 2>in current mode. May be aiming for ten twenty men a.

429
00:21:33.720 --> 00:21:36.920
<v Speaker 2>Then switch the multimeter to voltage mode and measure the

430
00:21:37.000 --> 00:21:41.319
<v Speaker 2>voltage directly across the LED's leads. That's its VF at

431
00:21:41.359 --> 00:21:41.880
<v Speaker 2>that current.

432
00:21:42.079 --> 00:21:45.319
<v Speaker 1>Clever. Okay, what about making things move or react to

433
00:21:45.359 --> 00:21:46.720
<v Speaker 1>the world motors?

434
00:21:47.079 --> 00:21:49.359
<v Speaker 2>This is where those power moss FETs we mentioned earlier

435
00:21:49.359 --> 00:21:53.160
<v Speaker 2>are really shine. Unlike standard bipolar transistors, moss fetes are

436
00:21:53.200 --> 00:21:56.079
<v Speaker 2>generally better for switching larger currents like the one or

437
00:21:56.119 --> 00:21:58.799
<v Speaker 2>two ams a typical small DC motor might draw. And

438
00:21:58.839 --> 00:22:01.519
<v Speaker 2>remember those logic levels fats. They can be switched on

439
00:22:01.599 --> 00:22:03.720
<v Speaker 2>and off directly by the five V or three point

440
00:22:03.720 --> 00:22:06.200
<v Speaker 2>three V signals from a micro controller like an Arduino.

441
00:22:06.319 --> 00:22:10.119
<v Speaker 1>So our duenopin high masfit turns on motor runs pretty much.

442
00:22:10.200 --> 00:22:14.599
<v Speaker 2>It massively simplifies controlling motors, high power lights, solenoids, anything

443
00:22:14.640 --> 00:22:17.000
<v Speaker 2>that needs more current than the micro controller pin can

444
00:22:17.000 --> 00:22:20.400
<v Speaker 2>supply directly, while you can sort of control motor speed

445
00:22:20.440 --> 00:22:23.000
<v Speaker 2>by varying the gate voltage around the threshold with a

446
00:22:23.079 --> 00:22:26.720
<v Speaker 2>variable resistor. Moss fats are usually used more like fast

447
00:22:26.759 --> 00:22:29.759
<v Speaker 2>on off switches, often with PWM for speed control.

448
00:22:29.920 --> 00:22:34.519
<v Speaker 1>Okay, Beyond basic components, pre built modules can really accelerate

449
00:22:34.559 --> 00:22:37.440
<v Speaker 1>your projects. They package up common functions.

450
00:22:37.079 --> 00:22:39.359
<v Speaker 2>Absolutely, They save a ton of wiring and figuring out.

451
00:22:39.400 --> 00:22:42.519
<v Speaker 1>For instance, pir motion sensor modules those little white dome

452
00:22:42.599 --> 00:22:44.160
<v Speaker 1>things you see in security.

453
00:22:43.759 --> 00:22:47.519
<v Speaker 2>Lights Exactly, they're incredibly low cost now. They detect movement

454
00:22:47.559 --> 00:22:52.200
<v Speaker 2>by sensing changes in infrared radiation body heat. Basically, their

455
00:22:52.200 --> 00:22:55.319
<v Speaker 2>output is usually a simple digital signal high when motion

456
00:22:55.440 --> 00:22:58.319
<v Speaker 2>is detected low Otherwise you can use that output to

457
00:22:58.559 --> 00:23:01.680
<v Speaker 2>instantly light an LED, sound a buzzer, or trigger an

458
00:23:01.720 --> 00:23:02.759
<v Speaker 2>action on an arduino.

459
00:23:03.400 --> 00:23:06.160
<v Speaker 1>The book even suggests building a fart detector with one

460
00:23:06.599 --> 00:23:09.160
<v Speaker 1>based on detecting methane's infrared signature.

461
00:23:09.720 --> 00:23:12.240
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, it does mention that as a quirky example of

462
00:23:12.279 --> 00:23:16.720
<v Speaker 2>sensing gas changes. Maybe stick to motion detection first, right, okay.

463
00:23:16.880 --> 00:23:20.640
<v Speaker 1>Or if you need to measure distance, Ultrasonic rangefinder.

464
00:23:20.119 --> 00:23:23.839
<v Speaker 2>Modules fantastic little things. They work like sonar on a submarine,

465
00:23:23.880 --> 00:23:26.319
<v Speaker 2>but with sound waves and air. They send out a

466
00:23:26.359 --> 00:23:29.519
<v Speaker 2>short ultrasonic pulse and measure the time it takes for

467
00:23:29.559 --> 00:23:32.279
<v Speaker 2>the echo to bounce back from an object. The cheaper

468
00:23:32.319 --> 00:23:35.960
<v Speaker 2>eight C SRO four module requires your arduino to precisely

469
00:23:36.039 --> 00:23:40.400
<v Speaker 2>time that echo pulse using the pulsane function. More expensive

470
00:23:40.400 --> 00:23:44.519
<v Speaker 2>ones like the Macrobotics LVEZ one mentioned do more of

471
00:23:44.519 --> 00:23:47.400
<v Speaker 2>the processing onboard and often give you a simpler output

472
00:23:47.680 --> 00:23:49.920
<v Speaker 2>like an analog voltage proportional.

473
00:23:49.440 --> 00:23:51.319
<v Speaker 1>To distance in accuracy depends on.

474
00:23:51.359 --> 00:23:54.160
<v Speaker 2>Temperature and humidity can subtly affect the speed of sound,

475
00:23:54.279 --> 00:23:58.359
<v Speaker 2>so that can influence accuracy slightly okay. And for remote control,

476
00:23:58.680 --> 00:24:01.640
<v Speaker 2>wireless remote modules are super cheap these days, often sold

477
00:24:01.640 --> 00:24:04.480
<v Speaker 2>as pairs a transmitter, maybe in a little keyfob and

478
00:24:04.519 --> 00:24:07.000
<v Speaker 2>a receiver module. You press a button on the remote

479
00:24:07.079 --> 00:24:09.839
<v Speaker 2>and a corresponding digital pin on the receiver module goes

480
00:24:09.920 --> 00:24:13.000
<v Speaker 2>high or low. Really easy way to add simple wireless

481
00:24:13.000 --> 00:24:14.759
<v Speaker 2>control to almost any project.

482
00:24:15.039 --> 00:24:18.759
<v Speaker 1>And for controlling motors, especially make m go forwards and backwards.

483
00:24:18.519 --> 00:24:21.079
<v Speaker 2>You need an h bridge. Wiring one up from scratch

484
00:24:21.119 --> 00:24:23.880
<v Speaker 2>with transistors can be complex and prone to errors that

485
00:24:23.920 --> 00:24:26.480
<v Speaker 2>could fry your parts so h bridge modules are a

486
00:24:26.480 --> 00:24:29.240
<v Speaker 2>life saver. Modules like the Spark fund TB six to

487
00:24:29.319 --> 00:24:32.480
<v Speaker 2>six wall FNG mentioned in the source are popular. They

488
00:24:32.519 --> 00:24:35.720
<v Speaker 2>take simple digital inputs like direction and speed inable and

489
00:24:35.759 --> 00:24:38.960
<v Speaker 2>handle the high current switching for the motor. This particular

490
00:24:39.000 --> 00:24:41.880
<v Speaker 2>one can handle about one point two amps continuously with

491
00:24:42.039 --> 00:24:43.319
<v Speaker 2>peaks over twice.

492
00:24:43.039 --> 00:24:45.240
<v Speaker 1>That and you can use these for stepper motors too.

493
00:24:45.680 --> 00:24:48.960
<v Speaker 2>Yes, stepper motors are different from regular DC motors. They

494
00:24:49.000 --> 00:24:51.960
<v Speaker 2>move in precise, discrete steps, which is great for positioning

495
00:24:52.000 --> 00:24:54.960
<v Speaker 2>things accurately, like in three D printers or robots. They

496
00:24:54.960 --> 00:24:58.480
<v Speaker 2>typically have four or more wires. An Onduino combined with

497
00:24:58.519 --> 00:25:01.720
<v Speaker 2>an h bridge module or a dedicated stepper driver module

498
00:25:01.839 --> 00:25:04.480
<v Speaker 2>can send the specific sequence of pulses needed to make

499
00:25:04.519 --> 00:25:06.839
<v Speaker 2>the stepper motor turn exactly the number of steps you

500
00:25:06.880 --> 00:25:08.000
<v Speaker 2>want in either direction.

501
00:25:08.319 --> 00:25:11.480
<v Speaker 1>Okay, modules simplify things a lot, and of course the

502
00:25:11.519 --> 00:25:15.279
<v Speaker 1>heart of so many modern hacks, the Arduino itself. Setting

503
00:25:15.319 --> 00:25:17.440
<v Speaker 1>up in Arduino seems pretty straightforward.

504
00:25:17.599 --> 00:25:21.440
<v Speaker 2>It really is. You download the free Arduino ID software

505
00:25:21.480 --> 00:25:25.960
<v Speaker 2>onto your computer, connect the Arduino board via USB. In

506
00:25:26.039 --> 00:25:28.599
<v Speaker 2>the software, you select your specific board type like the

507
00:25:28.640 --> 00:25:32.759
<v Speaker 2>common Ardueno Uno and choose the correct communication port comport

508
00:25:32.759 --> 00:25:36.680
<v Speaker 2>on Windows usually something like DEVDACM zero On Linux.

509
00:25:36.359 --> 00:25:38.599
<v Speaker 1>Mac and programs are called sketches.

510
00:25:38.519 --> 00:25:41.400
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, they call them sketches. The classic first step is

511
00:25:41.440 --> 00:25:44.920
<v Speaker 2>to load and upload the blink sketch from the example's menu.

512
00:25:45.440 --> 00:25:47.119
<v Speaker 2>It just makes the little built in led on the

513
00:25:47.279 --> 00:25:48.519
<v Speaker 2>Duena board flash.

514
00:25:48.240 --> 00:25:50.559
<v Speaker 1>On and off, and you can easily change the blink rate.

515
00:25:50.559 --> 00:25:54.160
<v Speaker 2>Yep, just by modifying the number inside the delay functions

516
00:25:54.160 --> 00:25:56.920
<v Speaker 2>and the sketch. Change delay one thousand to delay one hundred.

517
00:25:57.039 --> 00:26:00.200
<v Speaker 2>Upload again and it blinks much faster. It instantly shows

518
00:26:00.240 --> 00:26:01.920
<v Speaker 2>you the edit compile upload cycle.

519
00:26:02.160 --> 00:26:05.519
<v Speaker 1>Simple but effective first step. What about controlling something external

520
00:26:05.599 --> 00:26:06.240
<v Speaker 1>like a relay?

521
00:26:06.480 --> 00:26:10.759
<v Speaker 2>Easy with Ardueno. Remember, relays are electro mechanical switches. They

522
00:26:10.839 --> 00:26:13.839
<v Speaker 2>let your low voltage or Duena safely control high voltage

523
00:26:13.880 --> 00:26:17.759
<v Speaker 2>devices like a lamp or appliance. Because the relay coil

524
00:26:17.839 --> 00:26:20.960
<v Speaker 2>needs more current than an Arduino pin can provide, you

525
00:26:21.039 --> 00:26:24.119
<v Speaker 2>typically use a transistor like a small NPN or a

526
00:26:24.160 --> 00:26:26.640
<v Speaker 2>logic level moss FET as a switch. For the switch,

527
00:26:27.119 --> 00:26:30.519
<v Speaker 2>the arduenopin turns the transistor on. The transistor lets current

528
00:26:30.519 --> 00:26:32.960
<v Speaker 2>flow through the relay coil. And the relay context.

529
00:26:33.039 --> 00:26:35.279
<v Speaker 1>Clickover and the code is just digital right.

530
00:26:35.240 --> 00:26:39.680
<v Speaker 2>Pretty much pin mode relay pin uput in your setup,

531
00:26:40.079 --> 00:26:42.920
<v Speaker 2>then digital right relay pin hgh to turn it on,

532
00:26:43.000 --> 00:26:46.279
<v Speaker 2>digital right relaypin low to turn it off. You'll also

533
00:26:46.319 --> 00:26:48.759
<v Speaker 2>need a flyback diode across the relay coil to protect

534
00:26:48.759 --> 00:26:51.079
<v Speaker 2>the transistor. But the principle is simple.

535
00:26:51.519 --> 00:26:54.319
<v Speaker 1>Okay. Now here's where it gets really interesting. According to

536
00:26:54.359 --> 00:26:57.039
<v Speaker 1>the source, you can even control that relay from a

537
00:26:57.039 --> 00:26:59.400
<v Speaker 1>web page, turning the arduino into a server.

538
00:26:59.720 --> 00:27:02.640
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, this is super cool. You use an Ethernet shield,

539
00:27:02.720 --> 00:27:04.759
<v Speaker 2>which is one of those add on boards that plugs

540
00:27:04.839 --> 00:27:07.960
<v Speaker 2>right onto the arduino. It gives the ardueno network connectivity.

541
00:27:08.319 --> 00:27:10.640
<v Speaker 2>You assign it a matt C address usually printed on

542
00:27:10.640 --> 00:27:15.160
<v Speaker 2>the shield, and a static IP address for your local network. Then,

543
00:27:15.359 --> 00:27:18.839
<v Speaker 2>using the Arduino Ethernet library, your spetch can act as

544
00:27:18.880 --> 00:27:22.480
<v Speaker 2>a tiny web server. It listens for incoming browser requests

545
00:27:22.519 --> 00:27:23.799
<v Speaker 2>on that IP address.

546
00:27:23.480 --> 00:27:25.720
<v Speaker 1>And you can serve a simple web page exactly.

547
00:27:25.960 --> 00:27:29.240
<v Speaker 2>The example shows serving a basic HTML page with on

548
00:27:29.480 --> 00:27:32.480
<v Speaker 2>and off links. Clicking the on link sends a request

549
00:27:32.519 --> 00:27:34.839
<v Speaker 2>back to the Ardweno like dot A one. The Arduino

550
00:27:34.920 --> 00:27:37.200
<v Speaker 2>code sees the A one, turns the relay on and

551
00:27:37.240 --> 00:27:38.400
<v Speaker 2>maybe updates the page.

552
00:27:38.599 --> 00:27:41.519
<v Speaker 1>So you could control a hacked toy or a lamp

553
00:27:41.559 --> 00:27:43.200
<v Speaker 1>from your phone's browser on your home.

554
00:27:43.079 --> 00:27:46.359
<v Speaker 2>Network precisely, or even over the Internet. If you can

555
00:27:46.359 --> 00:27:49.359
<v Speaker 2>figure port forwarding on your router, though security becomes a

556
00:27:49.359 --> 00:27:51.880
<v Speaker 2>concern then but yeah, web control devices become possible.

557
00:27:51.920 --> 00:27:54.839
<v Speaker 1>That opens up a lot of possibilities. What about reading inputs?

558
00:27:55.119 --> 00:27:57.000
<v Speaker 1>Can an ardueno measure voltage?

559
00:27:57.319 --> 00:28:01.039
<v Speaker 2>Yes, easily. Our Duena boards have several analog input pins,

560
00:28:01.119 --> 00:28:04.079
<v Speaker 2>usually labeled A zero, A one, A two, and so on.

561
00:28:04.319 --> 00:28:07.519
<v Speaker 2>These pins can measure DC voltages between zero V and

562
00:28:07.519 --> 00:28:10.400
<v Speaker 2>the arduino's operating voltage, usually five V or three point

563
00:28:10.440 --> 00:28:13.279
<v Speaker 2>three V. You might use a variable resistor connected as

564
00:28:13.279 --> 00:28:15.920
<v Speaker 2>a voltage divider to feed a changing voltage into an.

565
00:28:15.880 --> 00:28:18.440
<v Speaker 1>Analog pin, and the function is analogory right.

566
00:28:18.799 --> 00:28:21.720
<v Speaker 2>Analogreed A zero reads the voltage on pin A zero

567
00:28:22.000 --> 00:28:24.759
<v Speaker 2>and returns a number between zero for zero V and

568
00:28:24.839 --> 00:28:27.680
<v Speaker 2>ten twenty three for five V On a five V arduino,

569
00:28:27.880 --> 00:28:30.759
<v Speaker 2>it's a ten bit resolution. You can then use serial

570
00:28:30.799 --> 00:28:33.759
<v Speaker 2>dot print LINOIM to print that reading to the serial

571
00:28:33.799 --> 00:28:36.720
<v Speaker 2>monitor window in the Arduino ide so you can see

572
00:28:36.720 --> 00:28:38.960
<v Speaker 2>the values changing in real time as you turn the knob.

573
00:28:39.119 --> 00:28:43.240
<v Speaker 1>Okay easy voltage reading and controlling LEDs beyond just blinking.

574
00:28:43.200 --> 00:28:46.799
<v Speaker 2>Brightness absolutely driving a standard LED is just like blinking

575
00:28:46.839 --> 00:28:50.319
<v Speaker 2>pin mode. To out tpt digital rate high or low W.

576
00:28:50.640 --> 00:28:53.079
<v Speaker 2>Don't forget the series resistor. You could control the flash

577
00:28:53.160 --> 00:28:56.480
<v Speaker 2>rate using a variable resistor read by ANALOGREED, maybe using

578
00:28:56.480 --> 00:28:58.359
<v Speaker 2>the map function to scale the zero win O two

579
00:28:58.400 --> 00:28:59.960
<v Speaker 2>three reading to a suitable delay ring.

580
00:29:00.200 --> 00:29:01.759
<v Speaker 1>But for actual brightness control.

581
00:29:01.960 --> 00:29:06.279
<v Speaker 2>For that you use pulsewith modulation or PWM. Certain digital

582
00:29:06.319 --> 00:29:09.319
<v Speaker 2>pins on the ardrino, marked with a tilled symbol usually

583
00:29:09.559 --> 00:29:13.440
<v Speaker 2>support PWM. Instead of digital right you use analog right

584
00:29:13.559 --> 00:29:16.359
<v Speaker 2>lead pin brightness, where brightness is a value from zero

585
00:29:16.440 --> 00:29:18.960
<v Speaker 2>off to two hundred and fifty five full brightness.

586
00:29:19.319 --> 00:29:21.039
<v Speaker 1>How does that work? It's still a digital pin.

587
00:29:21.240 --> 00:29:24.079
<v Speaker 2>It rapidly pulses the pin on and off. Analog right

588
00:29:24.200 --> 00:29:26.599
<v Speaker 2>lead pin one twenty seven means the pin is heigh

589
00:29:26.759 --> 00:29:29.440
<v Speaker 2>for fifty percent of the time and low W for

590
00:29:29.480 --> 00:29:33.039
<v Speaker 2>fifty percent. Analog right lead pin sixty four means high

591
00:29:33.119 --> 00:29:36.000
<v Speaker 2>for twenty five percent of the time. These pulses happen

592
00:29:36.119 --> 00:29:38.559
<v Speaker 2>so fast around five hundred hertz that your eye just

593
00:29:38.599 --> 00:29:41.359
<v Speaker 2>perceives it as varying brightness. It's a very common technique

594
00:29:41.359 --> 00:29:43.680
<v Speaker 2>for dimming LEDs or controlling DC motor speed.

595
00:29:43.880 --> 00:29:46.200
<v Speaker 1>Clever trick. Can you play sound with an Arduino two?

596
00:29:46.319 --> 00:29:46.799
<v Speaker 1>You can?

597
00:29:46.960 --> 00:29:49.440
<v Speaker 2>The simplest way is to rapidly turn a digital output

598
00:29:49.480 --> 00:29:51.720
<v Speaker 2>pin on and off at an audible frequency, say a

599
00:29:51.720 --> 00:29:54.799
<v Speaker 2>few hundred hertz to a few kilo herds. Connecting that pin,

600
00:29:54.920 --> 00:29:57.200
<v Speaker 2>maybe through a small resistor to a PISO sounder or

601
00:29:57.240 --> 00:29:59.960
<v Speaker 2>even a small speaker, will produce a tone. The Arduena

602
00:30:00.079 --> 00:30:03.839
<v Speaker 2>software provides handy functions. Tone pin frequency starts playing a tone,

603
00:30:03.839 --> 00:30:06.359
<v Speaker 2>and no tone pin stops it. The example project uses

604
00:30:06.400 --> 00:30:09.000
<v Speaker 2>buttons connected to digital inputs to select and play different

605
00:30:09.079 --> 00:30:13.519
<v Speaker 2>musical notes. Simple sound generation. And we mentioned Ardueno shields briefly.

606
00:30:13.799 --> 00:30:14.759
<v Speaker 2>They just plug in.

607
00:30:14.920 --> 00:30:17.640
<v Speaker 1>Yep. They're pre made circuit boards designed to stack right

608
00:30:17.680 --> 00:30:20.319
<v Speaker 1>on top of the main Arguino board, connecting to its

609
00:30:20.359 --> 00:30:25.400
<v Speaker 1>pins automatically. There are shields for almost everything Ethernet, LCD screens,

610
00:30:25.880 --> 00:30:30.119
<v Speaker 1>motor drivers, relays, prototyping areas. They really save a ton

611
00:30:30.160 --> 00:30:31.839
<v Speaker 1>of wiring time for common tasks.

612
00:30:32.119 --> 00:30:36.319
<v Speaker 2>Now for a really fascinating and surprising hack mentored automatic

613
00:30:36.480 --> 00:30:37.359
<v Speaker 2>password entry.

614
00:30:37.480 --> 00:30:40.519
<v Speaker 1>Yeah. This one uses a specific type of Ardueno board,

615
00:30:40.599 --> 00:30:44.559
<v Speaker 1>like the Arduino Leonardo or Micro. Unlike the Uno, these

616
00:30:44.640 --> 00:30:49.400
<v Speaker 1>boards can emulate a standard USB human interface device hid

617
00:30:49.599 --> 00:30:51.279
<v Speaker 1>like a keyboard or mouse, so.

618
00:30:51.200 --> 00:30:53.680
<v Speaker 2>The computer just thinks it's a regular keyboard exactly.

619
00:30:54.160 --> 00:30:56.519
<v Speaker 1>You can program the Leonardo using the built in keyboard

620
00:30:56.599 --> 00:30:59.559
<v Speaker 1>library to type out a preset string of characters like

621
00:30:59.559 --> 00:31:02.640
<v Speaker 1>your complex password. Whenever say, a button connected to one

622
00:31:02.640 --> 00:31:03.920
<v Speaker 1>of its pins is pressed.

623
00:31:03.680 --> 00:31:06.519
<v Speaker 2>Wow, plug it an I pressed button, password.

624
00:31:06.079 --> 00:31:09.400
<v Speaker 1>Typed YEP, keyboard dot print my super three qrept sword

625
00:31:09.759 --> 00:31:12.759
<v Speaker 1>and keyboard dot press kere return done. The book suggests

626
00:31:12.799 --> 00:31:18.240
<v Speaker 1>potential uses from convenience to UH security testing or practical jokes. Intriguing.

627
00:31:18.519 --> 00:31:20.519
<v Speaker 1>What about servo motors? How are they different?

628
00:31:20.880 --> 00:31:24.480
<v Speaker 2>Servos are great for precise rotational positioning. Unlike a DC

629
00:31:24.599 --> 00:31:28.000
<v Speaker 2>motor that just spins, a servo moves to a specific angle,

630
00:31:28.079 --> 00:31:30.720
<v Speaker 2>typically within a one hundred and eighty degree range, and

631
00:31:30.759 --> 00:31:34.119
<v Speaker 2>holds that position. Think robot arms or steering controls on

632
00:31:34.200 --> 00:31:38.039
<v Speaker 2>ourc cars. They usually have three wires ground black or brown,

633
00:31:38.400 --> 00:31:42.079
<v Speaker 2>power red usually five V, and control off an orange

634
00:31:42.160 --> 00:31:44.599
<v Speaker 2>or yellow The angles are determined by the duration of

635
00:31:44.640 --> 00:31:48.039
<v Speaker 2>pulses sent down the control line, usually every twenty milliseconds

636
00:31:48.119 --> 00:31:51.440
<v Speaker 2>or so. A one point five millisecond pulse typically corresponds

637
00:31:51.480 --> 00:31:54.960
<v Speaker 2>to the center position ninety degrees. Shorter pulses like one

638
00:31:55.000 --> 00:31:57.880
<v Speaker 2>meters move it one way. Longer pulses like two meters

639
00:31:57.920 --> 00:31:58.680
<v Speaker 2>move it the other way.

640
00:31:58.759 --> 00:32:00.319
<v Speaker 1>And Ardwino has libraries for this.

641
00:32:00.640 --> 00:32:03.720
<v Speaker 2>Yes, the standard servo library makes controlling them really easy.

642
00:32:04.000 --> 00:32:07.200
<v Speaker 2>My servo dot right angle sets the desired angle directly

643
00:32:07.240 --> 00:32:07.680
<v Speaker 2>in degrees.

644
00:32:07.759 --> 00:32:10.279
<v Speaker 1>Okay, service for precise angles. Let's touch on more sensors

645
00:32:10.279 --> 00:32:12.920
<v Speaker 1>for gathering information from the world. How about measuring color?

646
00:32:13.200 --> 00:32:15.920
<v Speaker 2>For that, the source mentions modules based on chips like

647
00:32:15.960 --> 00:32:19.000
<v Speaker 2>the TCS thirty two hundred. This chip has an array

648
00:32:19.039 --> 00:32:22.680
<v Speaker 2>of photodiodes covered with red, green, blue, and clear filters.

649
00:32:22.920 --> 00:32:25.599
<v Speaker 2>By selecting which filter set to read, you can measure

650
00:32:25.599 --> 00:32:28.599
<v Speaker 2>the intensity of red, green, and blue light reflecting off

651
00:32:28.640 --> 00:32:32.319
<v Speaker 2>an object, allowing you to determine its color. Useful for

652
00:32:32.359 --> 00:32:35.200
<v Speaker 2>color sorting robots or ambient light analysis.

653
00:32:35.359 --> 00:32:36.839
<v Speaker 1>What about detecting vibration?

654
00:32:37.319 --> 00:32:40.440
<v Speaker 2>Simple PISO vibration sensors are good for that. They're often thin,

655
00:32:40.640 --> 00:32:44.319
<v Speaker 2>flexible strips. When they're bent or vibrated. The piso electric

656
00:32:44.400 --> 00:32:48.039
<v Speaker 2>material generates a small voltage spike, and Arduino can read

657
00:32:48.079 --> 00:32:51.279
<v Speaker 2>the spike on an analog input pin. If the reading

658
00:32:51.319 --> 00:32:53.319
<v Speaker 2>exceeds a certain threshold, it knows.

659
00:32:53.160 --> 00:32:54.920
<v Speaker 1>A vibration occurred and trigger inaction.

660
00:32:55.079 --> 00:32:57.640
<v Speaker 2>Yeah like light an led log the event, et cetera.

661
00:32:58.039 --> 00:33:00.920
<v Speaker 2>The book even suggests a simple self care celebration function

662
00:33:00.960 --> 00:33:03.880
<v Speaker 2>where the Ardueno measures the baseline noise level and sets

663
00:33:03.880 --> 00:33:05.559
<v Speaker 2>the trigger threshold just above it.

664
00:33:05.640 --> 00:33:07.680
<v Speaker 1>Smart and basic temperature measurement.

665
00:33:07.880 --> 00:33:10.279
<v Speaker 2>The TMP thirty six IC is a really easy way

666
00:33:10.319 --> 00:33:12.920
<v Speaker 2>to do that. It's a simple three pin integrated circuit.

667
00:33:13.119 --> 00:33:15.480
<v Speaker 2>You give it power. It works well with Ardueno's five

668
00:33:15.559 --> 00:33:19.000
<v Speaker 2>V connect the middle pin to an Ardueno analog input

669
00:33:19.240 --> 00:33:21.839
<v Speaker 2>and the voltage on that pin is directly proportional to

670
00:33:21.880 --> 00:33:24.519
<v Speaker 2>the temperature and celsius. The data sheet tells you the

671
00:33:24.559 --> 00:33:28.240
<v Speaker 2>exact formula, usually something like temps equals voltage zero point

672
00:33:28.240 --> 00:33:29.200
<v Speaker 2>five one hundred.

673
00:33:29.400 --> 00:33:33.319
<v Speaker 1>Very straightforward, okay. And accelerometers for sensing motion or tilt right.

674
00:33:33.599 --> 00:33:37.400
<v Speaker 2>Tiny accelerometer modules are common now. They usually provide analog

675
00:33:37.599 --> 00:33:40.799
<v Speaker 2>or digital outputs corresponding to acceleration along the X, y

676
00:33:40.799 --> 00:33:44.480
<v Speaker 2>and z axis. They can detect orientation relative to gravity,

677
00:33:44.640 --> 00:33:49.519
<v Speaker 2>tilt sensing, as well as dynamic acceleration, movement, vibration shocks.

678
00:33:49.720 --> 00:33:52.440
<v Speaker 1>The project idea is an Ardueno egg and spoon RaSE.

679
00:33:52.279 --> 00:33:55.319
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, where an LED lights up if the acceleration jostling

680
00:33:55.359 --> 00:33:58.279
<v Speaker 2>exceed a certain threshold, indicating you drop the virtual egg

681
00:33:58.599 --> 00:33:59.960
<v Speaker 2>fun way to demonstrate.

682
00:33:59.559 --> 00:34:01.759
<v Speaker 1>The sensor and finally, magnetic field sensing.

683
00:34:02.039 --> 00:34:04.559
<v Speaker 2>A linear hal effect sensor can do that. It's typically

684
00:34:04.640 --> 00:34:08.280
<v Speaker 2>another small three pin device. It outputs an analog voltage

685
00:34:08.280 --> 00:34:11.320
<v Speaker 2>that's proportional to the strength of the magnetic field perpendicular

686
00:34:11.360 --> 00:34:14.880
<v Speaker 2>to the sensor's face. Useful for detecting the presence or

687
00:34:14.920 --> 00:34:18.480
<v Speaker 2>proximity of magnets, maybe as a no contact switch, or

688
00:34:18.679 --> 00:34:21.280
<v Speaker 2>even measuring current in a wire since current creates a

689
00:34:21.320 --> 00:34:22.079
<v Speaker 2>magnetic field.

690
00:34:22.519 --> 00:34:26.159
<v Speaker 1>Okay, a whole world of sensors. Now for the audio

691
00:34:26.159 --> 00:34:30.079
<v Speaker 1>files and creators, let's talk hacking audio leads.

692
00:34:30.400 --> 00:34:34.000
<v Speaker 2>Ah. Yes, audio signals are delicate. When making your own

693
00:34:34.079 --> 00:34:37.559
<v Speaker 2>audio cables, screened wire is pretty much essential to prevent

694
00:34:37.599 --> 00:34:40.960
<v Speaker 2>picking up ham and noise. Remember that's the wire with

695
00:34:41.000 --> 00:34:43.880
<v Speaker 2>the inner conductors surrounded by a braided or foil shield.

696
00:34:44.119 --> 00:34:47.360
<v Speaker 2>The shield gets connected to ground. The book details the

697
00:34:47.360 --> 00:34:50.679
<v Speaker 2>steps for carefully stripping and soldering a screened lead to

698
00:34:50.719 --> 00:34:53.119
<v Speaker 2>a standard jack plug like a headphone plug.

699
00:34:52.880 --> 00:34:54.840
<v Speaker 1>And there's a crucial practical tip.

700
00:34:54.719 --> 00:34:58.559
<v Speaker 2>Yes a classic mistake. Always slide the plugs screw on

701
00:34:58.679 --> 00:35:00.960
<v Speaker 2>enclosure onto the cable before where you start soldering the

702
00:35:00.960 --> 00:35:04.719
<v Speaker 2>second plus Otherwise you finish soldering, realize the enclosure is

703
00:35:04.760 --> 00:35:06.960
<v Speaker 2>still sitting on your workbench and you have to desolder

704
00:35:07.119 --> 00:35:11.119
<v Speaker 2>everything to get it on. Painful lesson learned, Been there, okay.

705
00:35:11.159 --> 00:35:15.719
<v Speaker 1>Another common audio issue converting stereo to mono. You can't

706
00:35:15.760 --> 00:35:17.199
<v Speaker 1>just wire left and right together.

707
00:35:17.639 --> 00:35:20.440
<v Speaker 2>No, definitely not. If you just short the left and

708
00:35:20.519 --> 00:35:23.719
<v Speaker 2>right outputs of a device together, you might damage the

709
00:35:23.760 --> 00:35:27.840
<v Speaker 2>output amplifier, or at best, you'll likely lose one channel

710
00:35:28.079 --> 00:35:32.199
<v Speaker 2>entirely due to phase cancelation or impedance issues. The proper

711
00:35:32.239 --> 00:35:35.039
<v Speaker 2>way is to use mixing resistors. You connect a resistor,

712
00:35:35.119 --> 00:35:37.880
<v Speaker 2>say one King in series with the left channel, another

713
00:35:37.920 --> 00:35:40.519
<v Speaker 2>identical resistor in series with the right channel, and then

714
00:35:40.599 --> 00:35:44.000
<v Speaker 2>join the outputs of those resistors together. That combined signal

715
00:35:44.199 --> 00:35:47.360
<v Speaker 2>is your mono output. It safely mixes the two channels.

716
00:35:47.559 --> 00:35:50.320
<v Speaker 1>Good to know. What about micromodules? Mike's need help, right.

717
00:35:50.559 --> 00:35:53.840
<v Speaker 2>Yes, the signal directly from a microphone element, especially electric

718
00:35:53.880 --> 00:35:58.320
<v Speaker 2>mics common in module, is incredibly faint. It needs significant

719
00:35:58.320 --> 00:36:02.519
<v Speaker 2>amplification to be useful. This is where operational amplifiers or

720
00:36:02.559 --> 00:36:05.639
<v Speaker 2>op amps come in. They are designed for high amplification,

721
00:36:06.159 --> 00:36:09.760
<v Speaker 2>but raw op amps have huge gain, often too much.

722
00:36:10.159 --> 00:36:13.360
<v Speaker 2>So you use feedback, connecting the output back to one

723
00:36:13.360 --> 00:36:16.559
<v Speaker 2>of the inputs, usually through resistors, to precisely control and

724
00:36:16.599 --> 00:36:20.159
<v Speaker 2>tame the amplification gain to a usable level, ensuring a

725
00:36:20.159 --> 00:36:22.400
<v Speaker 2>clear signal without excessive noise or distortion.

726
00:36:22.599 --> 00:36:26.239
<v Speaker 1>Okay, op amps for mic signals. Now here's a truly

727
00:36:26.320 --> 00:36:30.159
<v Speaker 1>creative and uh maybe slightly mischievous hack from the book

728
00:36:31.000 --> 00:36:32.559
<v Speaker 1>making an FM bug Ah.

729
00:36:32.679 --> 00:36:35.760
<v Speaker 2>Yes. This involves taking apart one of those cheap MP

730
00:36:35.840 --> 00:36:38.400
<v Speaker 2>three FM transmitters, the kind you used to use to

731
00:36:38.400 --> 00:36:40.880
<v Speaker 2>play music from your phone through a car radio. Okay,

732
00:36:41.000 --> 00:36:43.039
<v Speaker 2>You find the audio input points on its circuit board

733
00:36:43.039 --> 00:36:45.559
<v Speaker 2>where the headphone jack connected. You connect the output of

734
00:36:45.559 --> 00:36:48.599
<v Speaker 2>a simple amplified microphone module to those points. Then you

735
00:36:48.679 --> 00:36:51.760
<v Speaker 2>power the microphone module from the transmitter's existing battery.

736
00:36:51.480 --> 00:36:53.199
<v Speaker 1>And a broadcast whatever the mic picks.

737
00:36:53.039 --> 00:36:56.239
<v Speaker 2>Up exactly, It turns the empty three transmitter into a

738
00:36:56.280 --> 00:37:00.679
<v Speaker 2>wireless microphone, a bug that broadcasts audio over short range

739
00:37:00.719 --> 00:37:03.880
<v Speaker 2>to any standard FM radio tuned to the right frequency.

740
00:37:04.480 --> 00:37:06.960
<v Speaker 2>Just a note, the original on off button of the

741
00:37:06.960 --> 00:37:10.119
<v Speaker 2>transmitter probably won't control power to the added mic module.

742
00:37:10.360 --> 00:37:12.440
<v Speaker 2>You might meet a separate switch or just connect it

743
00:37:12.480 --> 00:37:13.519
<v Speaker 2>directly to the battery.

744
00:37:13.760 --> 00:37:17.400
<v Speaker 1>Clever repurposing, Okay. Selecting loudspeakers what matters well.

745
00:37:17.559 --> 00:37:20.599
<v Speaker 2>Understanding how they work helps. A cone attached to a

746
00:37:20.679 --> 00:37:24.000
<v Speaker 2>voice coil sitting in a magnetic field vibrates back and forth.

747
00:37:24.039 --> 00:37:27.480
<v Speaker 2>When an audio signal passes through the coil, this pushes air,

748
00:37:27.599 --> 00:37:32.000
<v Speaker 2>creating sound waves. Keyspecs are omes the impedance or resistance

749
00:37:32.079 --> 00:37:35.039
<v Speaker 2>usually four to eight omes. Your amplifier needs to match this,

750
00:37:35.639 --> 00:37:38.639
<v Speaker 2>and watts the power rating how much power it can

751
00:37:38.679 --> 00:37:41.639
<v Speaker 2>handle without damage. For full range sound, you often need

752
00:37:41.679 --> 00:37:46.119
<v Speaker 2>different sized speakers, larger woofers for low frequencies and smaller

753
00:37:46.159 --> 00:37:50.559
<v Speaker 2>tweeters for high frequencies. Trouble and crossover networks right crossovers

754
00:37:50.599 --> 00:37:53.159
<v Speaker 2>are filter circuits that split the audio signal, directing the

755
00:37:53.199 --> 00:37:55.639
<v Speaker 2>low frequencies to the woofer and the high frequencies to

756
00:37:55.679 --> 00:37:58.239
<v Speaker 2>the tweeter, so each speaker operates in the range it's

757
00:37:58.280 --> 00:37:58.920
<v Speaker 2>best suited for.

758
00:37:59.239 --> 00:38:01.320
<v Speaker 1>Makes sense. Can you build your own amplifier easily?

759
00:38:01.440 --> 00:38:04.440
<v Speaker 2>Yes, you can make a simple one watt audio amplifier

760
00:38:04.559 --> 00:38:08.280
<v Speaker 2>using a dedicated amplifier IC like the TDA seven zero

761
00:38:08.280 --> 00:38:11.880
<v Speaker 2>fifty two mentioned. These ICs contain most of the amplifier

762
00:38:11.920 --> 00:38:16.239
<v Speaker 2>circuitry internally, requiring only a few external components. The example

763
00:38:16.280 --> 00:38:19.360
<v Speaker 2>shows building it on strip board. R one is typically

764
00:38:19.400 --> 00:38:22.679
<v Speaker 2>a potentiometer acting as the volume control. C one is

765
00:38:22.679 --> 00:38:25.480
<v Speaker 2>a coupling capacitor to block any DC voltage from the

766
00:38:25.480 --> 00:38:29.000
<v Speaker 2>input signal. C two might be for power supply smoothing.

767
00:38:29.079 --> 00:38:32.039
<v Speaker 2>It makes building a small, decent amp quite straightforward.

768
00:38:32.199 --> 00:38:34.159
<v Speaker 1>And the five fifty five timer again, it can.

769
00:38:34.079 --> 00:38:35.920
<v Speaker 2>Makes sounse Oh yeah. The five to fifty five is

770
00:38:35.920 --> 00:38:38.960
<v Speaker 2>incredibly versatile. We talked about blinking LEDs, but if you

771
00:38:39.000 --> 00:38:41.559
<v Speaker 2>can figure it as in a stable multivibrator with the

772
00:38:41.639 --> 00:38:44.320
<v Speaker 2>right resistor and capacitor values, it can oscillate at higher

773
00:38:44.320 --> 00:38:48.000
<v Speaker 2>frequencies well into the audio range, generating tones. The example

774
00:38:48.039 --> 00:38:50.800
<v Speaker 2>project uses a light dependent resistor LDR as part of

775
00:38:50.800 --> 00:38:53.199
<v Speaker 2>the timing circuit. As you wave your hand over the

776
00:38:53.320 --> 00:38:56.920
<v Speaker 2>LDR changing the light level, its resistance changes, which alters

777
00:38:56.960 --> 00:39:01.360
<v Speaker 2>the oscillation frequency and thus the pitch of the tone.

778
00:39:00.639 --> 00:39:03.480
<v Speaker 1>Creating is simple. They're in like instrument exactly.

779
00:39:03.599 --> 00:39:04.960
<v Speaker 2>Loads of fun from a simple chip.

780
00:39:05.239 --> 00:39:08.920
<v Speaker 1>Cool Okay. Powering all these amazing creations is absolutely critical.

781
00:39:09.039 --> 00:39:12.320
<v Speaker 1>Let's talk batteries. When selecting the right battery, what are

782
00:39:12.360 --> 00:39:12.880
<v Speaker 1>the choices?

783
00:39:13.079 --> 00:39:15.960
<v Speaker 2>Lots of choices. For single use, you have common alkaline

784
00:39:15.960 --> 00:39:19.840
<v Speaker 2>batteries AA, triple A, et cetera, and lithium not rechargeable

785
00:39:19.920 --> 00:39:23.320
<v Speaker 2>lithium I AM, but primary lithium cells often coin cells

786
00:39:23.400 --> 00:39:27.920
<v Speaker 2>or triple A replacements, good voltage, long life. For rechargeable

787
00:39:27.960 --> 00:39:33.079
<v Speaker 2>common types are neumh nickel metal hydride replaces alkalines, LiPo

788
00:39:33.480 --> 00:39:37.519
<v Speaker 2>lithium polymer popular in phones drones, high energy density, and

789
00:39:37.679 --> 00:39:40.840
<v Speaker 2>lead acid like car batteries or smaller seal versions for

790
00:39:40.840 --> 00:39:44.679
<v Speaker 2>backup power. Heavy but robust key battery specs are capacity,

791
00:39:44.800 --> 00:39:47.639
<v Speaker 2>usually measured in million empowers, how much energy it stores,

792
00:39:47.920 --> 00:39:51.360
<v Speaker 2>and sometimes maximum discharge rate or c rate how quickly

793
00:39:51.400 --> 00:39:52.840
<v Speaker 2>you can safely draw power from it.

794
00:39:52.880 --> 00:39:54.519
<v Speaker 1>And the book advises a certain spirit.

795
00:39:54.719 --> 00:39:58.119
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, the hacking spirit here suggests spend less time agonizing

796
00:39:58.159 --> 00:40:00.920
<v Speaker 2>over perfect calculations, more time trying things out. Connect your

797
00:40:00.920 --> 00:40:03.280
<v Speaker 2>battery see if things get hot, see how long it lasts,

798
00:40:03.639 --> 00:40:04.480
<v Speaker 2>Observe and learn.

799
00:40:04.679 --> 00:40:07.360
<v Speaker 1>Okay, can you make your own packs? Rolling your own

800
00:40:07.400 --> 00:40:08.079
<v Speaker 1>battery packs?

801
00:40:08.320 --> 00:40:11.440
<v Speaker 2>Sure? You can put individual cells in series positive to

802
00:40:11.519 --> 00:40:15.360
<v Speaker 2>negative to increase the voltage. Standard battery holders make this easy.

803
00:40:15.519 --> 00:40:18.320
<v Speaker 2>Just remember that rechargeable cells often have a lower voltage

804
00:40:18.320 --> 00:40:21.079
<v Speaker 2>per cell than the single use ones, and g NMH

805
00:40:21.199 --> 00:40:23.920
<v Speaker 2>is one point two V versus Alkalin's one point five V,

806
00:40:24.400 --> 00:40:26.599
<v Speaker 2>so you might need more cells in series to reach

807
00:40:26.639 --> 00:40:27.760
<v Speaker 2>your target voltage.

808
00:40:28.000 --> 00:40:30.880
<v Speaker 1>Right now, charging batteries, this seems tricky.

809
00:40:31.440 --> 00:40:35.079
<v Speaker 2>General principles, Yeah, charging needs care. The c rate we

810
00:40:35.159 --> 00:40:38.119
<v Speaker 2>mentioned often applies to charging two. Charging at point one

811
00:40:38.159 --> 00:40:40.519
<v Speaker 2>C means charging with a current equal to one tenth

812
00:40:40.519 --> 00:40:44.440
<v Speaker 2>of the batteries AH capacity takes about ten twelve hours.

813
00:40:44.679 --> 00:40:47.840
<v Speaker 2>The biggest dangers are overcharging, pushing too much current in

814
00:40:48.000 --> 00:40:51.079
<v Speaker 2>or charging for too long. This causes heat, can permanently

815
00:40:51.159 --> 00:40:53.639
<v Speaker 2>damage the battery, and for LiPo batteries especially, can lead

816
00:40:53.679 --> 00:40:57.320
<v Speaker 2>to swelling or even fire, very dangerous and over discharging.

817
00:40:57.440 --> 00:40:59.960
<v Speaker 2>Draining the battery too much can also cause permanent damling,

818
00:41:00.400 --> 00:41:04.440
<v Speaker 2>especially to rechargeables. Battery life is also limited, usually measured

819
00:41:04.440 --> 00:41:07.000
<v Speaker 2>in the number of recharge cycles, maybe a few hundred

820
00:41:07.079 --> 00:41:08.880
<v Speaker 2>to a thousand, depending on type and usage.

821
00:41:08.920 --> 00:41:11.519
<v Speaker 1>Okay, respect the battery. How do you charge specific types

822
00:41:11.639 --> 00:41:14.000
<v Speaker 1>trickle charging NAMEH for nim MH.

823
00:41:14.159 --> 00:41:16.880
<v Speaker 2>A simple trickle charge is often okay for maintaining a

824
00:41:16.960 --> 00:41:20.639
<v Speaker 2>charge or slow charging. The book shows a basic schematic

825
00:41:20.760 --> 00:41:24.079
<v Speaker 2>using just a resistor connected between a suitable DC power

826
00:41:24.079 --> 00:41:26.880
<v Speaker 2>supply and the battery pack. To limit the current, you'd

827
00:41:26.920 --> 00:41:30.800
<v Speaker 2>calculate the resistor value R equals V supply V battery

828
00:41:30.840 --> 00:41:33.159
<v Speaker 2>I charge To give a very low current like point

829
00:41:33.320 --> 00:41:36.079
<v Speaker 2>zero five C. You also need to calculate the resistor's

830
00:41:36.159 --> 00:41:39.000
<v Speaker 2>power rating P equals I two R to make sure

831
00:41:39.000 --> 00:41:39.880
<v Speaker 2>it doesn't overheat.

832
00:41:39.960 --> 00:41:42.400
<v Speaker 1>All about charging sealed lead acid batteries.

833
00:41:42.079 --> 00:41:45.639
<v Speaker 2>They typically prefer a more controlled charge, often a constant

834
00:41:45.719 --> 00:41:48.840
<v Speaker 2>voltage charge with current limiting. This is where a lab

835
00:41:48.880 --> 00:41:52.400
<v Speaker 2>power supply becomes incredibly useful, really an essential tool. If

836
00:41:52.440 --> 00:41:55.400
<v Speaker 2>you get serious, You can set the output voltage precisely

837
00:41:55.559 --> 00:41:57.920
<v Speaker 2>eg to the batteries recommended float voltage in set a

838
00:41:57.960 --> 00:42:01.840
<v Speaker 2>maximum current limit. The powers apply automatically handles delivering the

839
00:42:01.920 --> 00:42:03.840
<v Speaker 2>right amount of current without exceeding the limit.

840
00:42:04.039 --> 00:42:06.239
<v Speaker 1>And LiPo batteries they need special.

841
00:42:05.880 --> 00:42:10.360
<v Speaker 2>Care, absolutely lipos are a different beast. They require dedicated

842
00:42:10.440 --> 00:42:14.840
<v Speaker 2>charge management ships or specific balanced chargers, especially when charging

843
00:42:14.920 --> 00:42:18.719
<v Speaker 2>multi cell packs. You cannot safely charge multiple LiPo cells

844
00:42:18.760 --> 00:42:21.159
<v Speaker 2>in series the same way you might with namimage or

845
00:42:21.239 --> 00:42:24.159
<v Speaker 2>lead acid. Each cell needs to be monitored and charged

846
00:42:24.159 --> 00:42:28.400
<v Speaker 2>individually or balanced, and definitely do not trickle charge LiPo batteries.

847
00:42:28.559 --> 00:42:31.599
<v Speaker 2>They need a specific charge profile, usually constant current than

848
00:42:31.679 --> 00:42:35.320
<v Speaker 2>constant voltage, and must be stopped when full. Overcharging is

849
00:42:35.400 --> 00:42:36.440
<v Speaker 2>extremely hazardous.

850
00:42:36.559 --> 00:42:40.280
<v Speaker 1>Okay, LiPo needs respect. Can you salvage them hacking a

851
00:42:40.320 --> 00:42:41.599
<v Speaker 1>cell phone battery? Yes?

852
00:42:41.840 --> 00:42:44.679
<v Speaker 2>Old cell phone batteries are often perfectly good LiPo cells.

853
00:42:44.679 --> 00:42:47.400
<v Speaker 2>You can repurpose you carefully remove the cell from the

854
00:42:47.480 --> 00:42:51.239
<v Speaker 2>phone avoid puncturing it. Often they have protection circuits built in.

855
00:42:51.760 --> 00:42:55.559
<v Speaker 2>You can then use dedicated LiPo charging modules cheaply available online,

856
00:42:55.599 --> 00:42:57.360
<v Speaker 2>often based on the TP four or A five to

857
00:42:57.360 --> 00:43:01.199
<v Speaker 2>six chip, to safely charge the salvage cell. One caution

858
00:43:01.760 --> 00:43:04.199
<v Speaker 2>make sure the salvage battery does have a protection circuit

859
00:43:04.199 --> 00:43:07.400
<v Speaker 2>that includes an automatic cutoff to prevent dangerous over discharging

860
00:43:07.440 --> 00:43:08.119
<v Speaker 2>in your project.

861
00:43:08.320 --> 00:43:11.639
<v Speaker 1>Good tip. Now, batteries don't maintain voltage perfectly. How do

862
00:43:11.679 --> 00:43:14.320
<v Speaker 1>you deal with that? Controlling battery voltage right.

863
00:43:14.360 --> 00:43:17.320
<v Speaker 2>Battery voltage drops as they discharge. This can be a

864
00:43:17.320 --> 00:43:20.920
<v Speaker 2>problem for electronics, especially integrated circuits that need a very stable,

865
00:43:20.960 --> 00:43:23.599
<v Speaker 2>precise voltage like three point three V or five V.

866
00:43:24.320 --> 00:43:27.800
<v Speaker 2>The solution is a voltage regulator. Common are three pin

867
00:43:27.920 --> 00:43:30.920
<v Speaker 2>linear regulators like the famous seven eight H five or

868
00:43:31.000 --> 00:43:33.840
<v Speaker 2>five V output or seven eight twelve for twelve V,

869
00:43:34.360 --> 00:43:37.320
<v Speaker 2>or the LM three seventeen for adjustable output. You feed

870
00:43:37.360 --> 00:43:40.760
<v Speaker 2>the higher unstable battery voltage into the input pin, connect

871
00:43:40.840 --> 00:43:43.559
<v Speaker 2>the middle pin to ground, and the output tin provides

872
00:43:43.599 --> 00:43:46.480
<v Speaker 2>a steady regulated voltage. You usually need a couple of

873
00:43:46.519 --> 00:43:50.079
<v Speaker 2>small capacitors input and output for stability, as shown in

874
00:43:50.079 --> 00:43:51.880
<v Speaker 2>the schematic, but they're simple to use.

875
00:43:52.119 --> 00:43:54.480
<v Speaker 1>What if your battery voltage is lower than you need.

876
00:43:54.320 --> 00:43:57.599
<v Speaker 2>Then you need the opposite, a boost converter sometimes called

877
00:43:57.639 --> 00:44:00.440
<v Speaker 2>a step up converter. These are switching circuits can take

878
00:44:00.480 --> 00:44:03.960
<v Speaker 2>a low input voltage, say from one or two belier batteries,

879
00:44:04.039 --> 00:44:07.119
<v Speaker 2>and efficiently boosted up to a higher stable output foltives

880
00:44:07.119 --> 00:44:09.199
<v Speaker 2>like three point three V or five V usually available

881
00:44:09.239 --> 00:44:10.440
<v Speaker 2>as pre built modules too.

882
00:44:10.519 --> 00:44:12.800
<v Speaker 1>Okay, how do you figure out how long a battery

883
00:44:12.800 --> 00:44:14.599
<v Speaker 1>will last in your project.

884
00:44:14.440 --> 00:44:18.000
<v Speaker 2>Seems important, very important. This raises that key question, how

885
00:44:18.039 --> 00:44:21.559
<v Speaker 2>do you prevent your project from dying unexpectedly? The source

886
00:44:21.599 --> 00:44:24.599
<v Speaker 2>provides a really insightful method, using the example of an

887
00:44:24.639 --> 00:44:27.920
<v Speaker 2>automated chicken house door opener. You need to estimate the

888
00:44:27.960 --> 00:44:31.239
<v Speaker 2>average current consumption. The motor to open the door used

889
00:44:31.239 --> 00:44:34.159
<v Speaker 2>a high current, say one amp, but only for a

890
00:44:34.159 --> 00:44:37.639
<v Speaker 2>few seconds each day. The micro controller controlling it used

891
00:44:37.760 --> 00:44:40.440
<v Speaker 2>very little current, maybe twenty milliamps, but it was running

892
00:44:40.480 --> 00:44:42.519
<v Speaker 2>constantly two hundred and forty seven.

893
00:44:42.400 --> 00:44:44.559
<v Speaker 1>So the controller used more energy overall.

894
00:44:44.960 --> 00:44:49.280
<v Speaker 2>Exactly when you calculate the total millionamp hours Babaya consumed

895
00:44:49.320 --> 00:44:52.760
<v Speaker 2>per day current time, the low current controller ended up

896
00:44:52.840 --> 00:44:55.920
<v Speaker 2>using far more battery capacity than the high current motor.

897
00:44:56.320 --> 00:44:59.480
<v Speaker 2>It's a counterintuitive result that highlights the importance of considering

898
00:44:59.519 --> 00:45:02.320
<v Speaker 2>how long each part is drawing current, not just how

899
00:45:02.360 --> 00:45:05.960
<v Speaker 2>much current it draws momentarily. You then divide the battery's

900
00:45:06.000 --> 00:45:09.920
<v Speaker 2>total macapacity by your calculated daily MAC consumption to estimate

901
00:45:09.960 --> 00:45:11.079
<v Speaker 2>how many days it will last.

902
00:45:11.360 --> 00:45:14.800
<v Speaker 1>Great example, what about battery backup running from mainz but

903
00:45:14.920 --> 00:45:16.800
<v Speaker 1>switching to battery if power fails.

904
00:45:17.039 --> 00:45:19.480
<v Speaker 2>You can do that using diodes as one way valves

905
00:45:19.480 --> 00:45:22.639
<v Speaker 2>for the power. The schematic shows the main power supply

906
00:45:22.760 --> 00:45:26.320
<v Speaker 2>connected through a diode D one to the project's power input.

907
00:45:27.159 --> 00:45:30.679
<v Speaker 2>The backup battery is also connected through another diode D

908
00:45:30.840 --> 00:45:33.760
<v Speaker 2>two to the same point. Whichever source has the slightly

909
00:45:33.840 --> 00:45:37.440
<v Speaker 2>higher voltage wins and provides power, while the diodes prevent

910
00:45:37.480 --> 00:45:39.880
<v Speaker 2>current from flowing back into the lower voltage source or

911
00:45:39.920 --> 00:45:43.280
<v Speaker 2>the battery charging from the main supply unintentionally. There is

912
00:45:43.320 --> 00:45:46.239
<v Speaker 2>also usually a diode B three to protect the main

913
00:45:46.320 --> 00:45:49.480
<v Speaker 2>power supply itself from backfeed when it's turned off. Simple

914
00:45:49.519 --> 00:45:51.559
<v Speaker 2>but effective automatic switchover.

915
00:45:51.239 --> 00:45:54.840
<v Speaker 1>Clever use of diodes. Okay, finally, let's explore some more

916
00:45:54.880 --> 00:45:57.719
<v Speaker 1>advanced tools and maintenance. How do use solar cells.

917
00:45:58.079 --> 00:46:01.840
<v Speaker 2>Solar cells convert light directly into electricity. Great idea, but

918
00:46:01.880 --> 00:46:04.880
<v Speaker 2>they typically produce small amounts of power that's suited for

919
00:46:05.000 --> 00:46:07.760
<v Speaker 2>low power outdoor devices where they can charge a rechargeable

920
00:46:07.800 --> 00:46:10.400
<v Speaker 2>battery during the day and the device runs off the battery.

921
00:46:10.719 --> 00:46:13.119
<v Speaker 2>Panels are often rated for a nominal voltage like six

922
00:46:13.280 --> 00:46:16.519
<v Speaker 2>V or twelve, but their actual open circuit voltage with

923
00:46:16.639 --> 00:46:20.400
<v Speaker 2>nothing connected can be much higher. Voltage drops quickly under load,

924
00:46:20.480 --> 00:46:24.079
<v Speaker 2>so testing is important. Yes, the book emphasizes test aginals

925
00:46:24.159 --> 00:46:27.599
<v Speaker 2>under realistic conditions, maybe using a dummy load resistor and

926
00:46:27.679 --> 00:46:31.119
<v Speaker 2>recording voltage and current in different light levels. A spreadsheet

927
00:46:31.159 --> 00:46:35.320
<v Speaker 2>is even provided on the book's website. And crucially, always

928
00:46:35.400 --> 00:46:37.800
<v Speaker 2>use a blocking diode in series with the solar panel

929
00:46:37.840 --> 00:46:41.280
<v Speaker 2>when charging a battery. This prevents the battery from discharging

930
00:46:41.280 --> 00:46:43.440
<v Speaker 2>back through the solar panel at night or in low light.

931
00:46:43.639 --> 00:46:46.480
<v Speaker 1>Okay, what about when things go wrong or you need

932
00:46:46.519 --> 00:46:49.960
<v Speaker 1>to salvage parts safely avoiding electrocution seems like a good

933
00:46:49.960 --> 00:46:50.559
<v Speaker 1>place to start.

934
00:46:50.719 --> 00:46:55.079
<v Speaker 2>Absolutely paramount rule number one. Never work on household electricity

935
00:46:55.119 --> 00:46:58.079
<v Speaker 2>circuits while they are plugged in. Always disconnect the power

936
00:46:58.119 --> 00:47:01.159
<v Speaker 2>at the source first, seriously. Also, be aware of high

937
00:47:01.199 --> 00:47:04.519
<v Speaker 2>value capacitors, especially in power supplies. They can store a

938
00:47:04.599 --> 00:47:08.559
<v Speaker 2>dangerous charge long after the power is off. Safely discharge

939
00:47:08.559 --> 00:47:11.000
<v Speaker 2>them by connecting a suitable resistor, maybe a few keys

940
00:47:11.079 --> 00:47:14.639
<v Speaker 2>rated for the power across their terminals. Never short them

941
00:47:14.639 --> 00:47:17.039
<v Speaker 2>directly with the screwdriver. It can cause a huge spark,

942
00:47:17.199 --> 00:47:19.400
<v Speaker 2>damage the capacitor, and potentially hurt you.

943
00:47:19.639 --> 00:47:23.639
<v Speaker 1>Right, safety first, What about simple things like checking fuses.

944
00:47:24.039 --> 00:47:27.199
<v Speaker 2>Fuses are safety devices designed to blow and break the

945
00:47:27.239 --> 00:47:30.559
<v Speaker 2>circuit if too much current flows. You can often identify

946
00:47:30.599 --> 00:47:33.920
<v Speaker 2>a blown fuse visually the thin wire inside will be

947
00:47:33.960 --> 00:47:37.000
<v Speaker 2>broken or look burnt, or you can test them with

948
00:47:37.039 --> 00:47:40.840
<v Speaker 2>your multi meter incontinuity mode. A good fuse will beep

949
00:47:41.239 --> 00:47:44.480
<v Speaker 2>show near zero resistance. A blown fuse will show an

950
00:47:44.480 --> 00:47:47.039
<v Speaker 2>open circuit, no beep, infinite.

951
00:47:46.679 --> 00:47:48.800
<v Speaker 1>Resistance if it blows again right away.

952
00:47:48.719 --> 00:47:51.480
<v Speaker 2>Replace a blown fuse once with the exact same rating.

953
00:47:51.719 --> 00:47:54.719
<v Speaker 2>If the new one blows immediately when you apply power stop,

954
00:47:54.840 --> 00:47:58.119
<v Speaker 2>there's an underlying fault like a short circuit, causing the problem.

955
00:47:58.440 --> 00:48:00.800
<v Speaker 2>Find and fix that first before trying another fuse.

956
00:48:01.079 --> 00:48:03.320
<v Speaker 1>Okay, testing a battery again more accurately.

957
00:48:03.440 --> 00:48:06.159
<v Speaker 2>Measuring the open circuit voltage gives you some idea, but

958
00:48:06.280 --> 00:48:09.920
<v Speaker 2>it can be misleading, especially with rechargeables. A more accurate

959
00:48:09.960 --> 00:48:12.360
<v Speaker 2>test of its health or remaining capacity is to measure

960
00:48:12.400 --> 00:48:15.760
<v Speaker 2>the voltage under load. Connect a dummy load resistor across

961
00:48:15.800 --> 00:48:18.119
<v Speaker 2>its terminals. The book suggests maybe one hundred day for

962
00:48:18.280 --> 00:48:21.400
<v Speaker 2>typical small batteries, and measure the voltage while the resistor

963
00:48:21.480 --> 00:48:25.159
<v Speaker 2>is connected. A weak batteries voltage will drop significantly more

964
00:48:25.239 --> 00:48:26.679
<v Speaker 2>underload than a healthy one.

965
00:48:26.880 --> 00:48:29.800
<v Speaker 1>How about finding and replacing failed components on a.

966
00:48:29.760 --> 00:48:33.239
<v Speaker 2>Board, first, use your eyes and nose. Look for obvious

967
00:48:33.280 --> 00:48:37.840
<v Speaker 2>signs of distress, charring, bulging capacitors, cracked resistors, maybe even

968
00:48:37.880 --> 00:48:41.280
<v Speaker 2>a burnt smell. Resistors can often be tested in circuit

969
00:48:41.320 --> 00:48:44.840
<v Speaker 2>with a multimeter set to resistance mode, though surrounding components

970
00:48:44.880 --> 00:48:48.119
<v Speaker 2>can sometimes affect the reading compare to the expected value

971
00:48:48.159 --> 00:48:51.599
<v Speaker 2>from color known or schematic. Other components like transistors, I

972
00:48:51.639 --> 00:48:54.840
<v Speaker 2>seize and capacitors are much harder to test definitively while

973
00:48:54.880 --> 00:48:57.920
<v Speaker 2>still startered in place. Often the easiest approach if you

974
00:48:57.960 --> 00:49:01.159
<v Speaker 2>suspect a component is to carefully desolder and replace it

975
00:49:01.199 --> 00:49:04.000
<v Speaker 2>with a known good one, especially if spars are cheap

976
00:49:04.039 --> 00:49:05.280
<v Speaker 2>and available.

977
00:49:05.000 --> 00:49:08.480
<v Speaker 1>And desoldering itself any tips it can be.

978
00:49:08.519 --> 00:49:11.880
<v Speaker 2>Tricky, especially on boards with small pads or multiple leads.

979
00:49:12.079 --> 00:49:15.320
<v Speaker 2>Sometimes paradoxically, adding a little fresh solder to the joint

980
00:49:15.320 --> 00:49:17.960
<v Speaker 2>first helps the old solder melt and flow better. Then

981
00:49:18.000 --> 00:49:21.079
<v Speaker 2>you can use a solder sucker, a spring loaded vacuum pump,

982
00:49:21.199 --> 00:49:25.559
<v Speaker 2>or often better desoldering braid warven copper wick. You press

983
00:49:25.599 --> 00:49:27.719
<v Speaker 2>the braid onto the joint with your hot iron, and

984
00:49:27.800 --> 00:49:30.760
<v Speaker 2>the braid wix the molten solder away through capillary action.

985
00:49:31.239 --> 00:49:32.079
<v Speaker 2>Takes a bit of practice.

986
00:49:32.119 --> 00:49:35.559
<v Speaker 1>Okay, in a fantastic recycling tip reusing a cell phone

987
00:49:35.599 --> 00:49:36.239
<v Speaker 1>power adaptor.

988
00:49:36.559 --> 00:49:39.599
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, those old wallwarts, we all have a drawer full

989
00:49:39.639 --> 00:49:43.679
<v Speaker 2>of them. Many are perfectly good regulated DC power supplies.

990
00:49:44.039 --> 00:49:46.679
<v Speaker 2>Just carefully cut off the proprietary plug that went into

991
00:49:46.679 --> 00:49:50.119
<v Speaker 2>the old phone. Then use your multimeter in DC boltz

992
00:49:50.159 --> 00:49:54.000
<v Speaker 2>mode to identify the output voltage and crucially the polarity

993
00:49:54.079 --> 00:49:57.719
<v Speaker 2>of the two wires plus and label them clearly. Once

994
00:49:57.760 --> 00:49:59.559
<v Speaker 2>you know the voltage and polarity, you can use it

995
00:49:59.559 --> 00:50:02.880
<v Speaker 2>to power countless electronics projects that need that specific voltage.

996
00:50:03.079 --> 00:50:04.599
<v Speaker 2>Great way to recycle E waste.

997
00:50:04.800 --> 00:50:07.800
<v Speaker 1>Excellent. Let's quickly revisit your multimeter with a deeper dive,

998
00:50:07.920 --> 00:50:10.000
<v Speaker 1>covering some more functions now that we know a bit more.

999
00:50:10.159 --> 00:50:14.639
<v Speaker 2>Okay, we covered continuity, DC vaults, DC current and resistance

1000
00:50:15.119 --> 00:50:19.039
<v Speaker 2>many meters combine continuity and diodtest in diotest mode. It

1001
00:50:19.039 --> 00:50:21.599
<v Speaker 2>outputs a small voltage current. You can use it to

1002
00:50:21.599 --> 00:50:25.440
<v Speaker 2>measure the forward voltage drop VF of diodes or LEDs directly.

1003
00:50:25.480 --> 00:50:27.880
<v Speaker 2>It will display the voltage maybe zero point seven V

1004
00:50:28.079 --> 00:50:30.679
<v Speaker 2>for silicon diode, one point eight three V for LEDs.

1005
00:50:31.039 --> 00:50:34.840
<v Speaker 2>It also confirms they conduct in only one direction. For resistance,

1006
00:50:35.280 --> 00:50:37.440
<v Speaker 2>always start on a high range and work down for

1007
00:50:37.519 --> 00:50:41.440
<v Speaker 2>unknown values. For very high resistance values megums, avoid touching

1008
00:50:41.480 --> 00:50:43.719
<v Speaker 2>the metal tips of the probes with your fingers, as

1009
00:50:43.760 --> 00:50:46.800
<v Speaker 2>your body resistance can affect the reading. Some meters have

1010
00:50:46.880 --> 00:50:50.760
<v Speaker 2>capacitance measurement, often not super accurate, especially for small values

1011
00:50:50.800 --> 00:50:52.920
<v Speaker 2>or in circuit, but can be useful for a rough

1012
00:50:53.000 --> 00:50:56.639
<v Speaker 2>check if a capacitor is completely dead, reads zero or infinite.

1013
00:50:56.679 --> 00:50:59.800
<v Speaker 2>Many have temperature using plugin Thermo couple leads handy for

1014
00:50:59.880 --> 00:51:04.360
<v Speaker 2>time check and component temperatures. AC voltage v measures AC

1015
00:51:04.519 --> 00:51:07.719
<v Speaker 2>voltages like from a wall socket carefully or transformer output.

1016
00:51:08.039 --> 00:51:10.960
<v Speaker 2>Note it usually displays the RMS rootmine square value, which

1017
00:51:11.000 --> 00:51:13.880
<v Speaker 2>is like the DC equivalent, not the peak voltage DC current.

1018
00:51:14.239 --> 00:51:16.400
<v Speaker 2>Remember you usually have to move the red probe to

1019
00:51:16.480 --> 00:51:20.400
<v Speaker 2>a separate socket often marked A or MA for current measurement.

1020
00:51:21.039 --> 00:51:23.400
<v Speaker 2>Be very careful to connect the meter in series with

1021
00:51:23.519 --> 00:51:26.239
<v Speaker 2>the circuit, like breaking the wire and inserting the meter.

1022
00:51:26.800 --> 00:51:29.119
<v Speaker 2>Connecting it in parallel like a vault meter will cause

1023
00:51:29.159 --> 00:51:32.519
<v Speaker 2>a short circuit and likely blow the meter's internal fuze

1024
00:51:32.719 --> 00:51:33.199
<v Speaker 2>or worse.

1025
00:51:33.440 --> 00:51:35.800
<v Speaker 1>And always put the probe back after measuring current.

1026
00:51:36.039 --> 00:51:39.760
<v Speaker 2>Yes critically important safety habit. Always return the red lead

1027
00:51:39.800 --> 00:51:42.679
<v Speaker 2>to the vase socket immediately after finishing a current measurement

1028
00:51:43.039 --> 00:51:45.280
<v Speaker 2>before you forget and try to measure voltage next time.

1029
00:51:45.400 --> 00:51:48.440
<v Speaker 1>Got it? Can you test a transistor with a multimeter.

1030
00:51:48.840 --> 00:51:51.239
<v Speaker 2>You can do a basic health check on a standard

1031
00:51:51.360 --> 00:51:55.199
<v Speaker 2>NPN or PNP bipolar transistor using the diode test mode.

1032
00:51:55.599 --> 00:51:58.039
<v Speaker 2>For an NPN, you should see a diode drop around

1033
00:51:58.119 --> 00:52:02.000
<v Speaker 2>point seven v while measuring from base plus to emitter

1034
00:52:02.199 --> 00:52:06.039
<v Speaker 2>and from base plus to collector. All other combinations should

1035
00:52:06.039 --> 00:52:09.679
<v Speaker 2>read open circuit infinite. If you see shorts or readings

1036
00:52:09.719 --> 00:52:12.400
<v Speaker 2>in the wrong direction, the transistor is likely damaged. It's

1037
00:52:12.400 --> 00:52:13.599
<v Speaker 2>a quick go no go test.

1038
00:52:13.559 --> 00:52:16.559
<v Speaker 1>Okay, And if you get more serious the lab power supply.

1039
00:52:16.800 --> 00:52:17.639
<v Speaker 1>Why is it so good?

1040
00:52:17.840 --> 00:52:20.679
<v Speaker 2>It really is the next item to invest in after

1041
00:52:20.719 --> 00:52:23.840
<v Speaker 2>good soldering gear and a multimeter. Its benefits are huge.

1042
00:52:24.360 --> 00:52:27.000
<v Speaker 2>It displays both the voltage and the current being drawn

1043
00:52:27.239 --> 00:52:31.599
<v Speaker 2>in real time. You can precisely set the output voltage. Crucially,

1044
00:52:31.800 --> 00:52:33.400
<v Speaker 2>you can set a current limit.

1045
00:52:33.360 --> 00:52:36.199
<v Speaker 1>So won't provide more than a certain current exactly.

1046
00:52:36.519 --> 00:52:39.440
<v Speaker 2>This is fantastic for safely powering up a new project

1047
00:52:39.480 --> 00:52:41.719
<v Speaker 2>for the first time. You can set the voltage to

1048
00:52:42.119 --> 00:52:45.400
<v Speaker 2>say five v and limit the current to maybe one

1049
00:52:45.480 --> 00:52:48.280
<v Speaker 2>hundred milliarray. If there is a short circuit in your project,

1050
00:52:48.320 --> 00:52:50.480
<v Speaker 2>the power supply will just hit the current limit instead

1051
00:52:50.480 --> 00:52:53.159
<v Speaker 2>of dumping huge amounts of current and frying everything. The

1052
00:52:53.239 --> 00:52:55.639
<v Speaker 2>voltage will drop, the current limit indicator will light up,

1053
00:52:55.679 --> 00:52:58.079
<v Speaker 2>and you know you have a problem to fix safely.

1054
00:52:58.800 --> 00:53:01.920
<v Speaker 2>Many also have a constant current mode, essential for things

1055
00:53:01.960 --> 00:53:05.800
<v Speaker 2>like charging certain batteries or driving high power LEDs directly.

1056
00:53:05.920 --> 00:53:08.920
<v Speaker 2>It's incredibly versatile and much safer than just using fixed

1057
00:53:08.960 --> 00:53:10.159
<v Speaker 2>wall adapters or batteries.

1058
00:53:10.159 --> 00:53:13.559
<v Speaker 1>For testing makes sense and the ultimate tool the selloscope.

1059
00:53:13.960 --> 00:53:16.760
<v Speaker 2>Ugh the scope yes for really understanding what's going on

1060
00:53:16.840 --> 00:53:20.760
<v Speaker 2>with signals that change over time. It's indispensable. A multimeter

1061
00:53:20.960 --> 00:53:23.519
<v Speaker 2>just gives you a number, and a silloscope draws you

1062
00:53:23.559 --> 00:53:26.800
<v Speaker 2>a picture a graph of voltage versus time. It displays

1063
00:53:26.880 --> 00:53:30.039
<v Speaker 2>the waveform on a grid. The vertical axis is calibrated

1064
00:53:30.039 --> 00:53:33.400
<v Speaker 2>in volts per division and the horizontal axis is time

1065
00:53:33.440 --> 00:53:36.400
<v Speaker 2>per division. By looking at the waveform on the grid,

1066
00:53:36.480 --> 00:53:40.039
<v Speaker 2>you can visually measure things like peak voltage frequency by

1067
00:53:40.079 --> 00:53:43.199
<v Speaker 2>measuring the time for one cycle duty cycle of PWM

1068
00:53:43.280 --> 00:53:47.440
<v Speaker 2>signals see noise or distortion things A multimeter can't.

1069
00:53:47.199 --> 00:53:48.880
<v Speaker 1>Show you sounds complex.

1070
00:53:49.119 --> 00:53:51.800
<v Speaker 2>It has a learning curve, but the basics are straightforward.

1071
00:53:52.239 --> 00:53:55.400
<v Speaker 2>Modern digital scopes often have autoset features and on screen

1072
00:53:55.440 --> 00:53:57.679
<v Speaker 2>measurements that make them much easier to use than old

1073
00:53:57.719 --> 00:54:00.360
<v Speaker 2>analog ones. They also have high impedance per robes that

1074
00:54:00.440 --> 00:54:04.000
<v Speaker 2>don't significantly load down the circuit you're measuring, essential for

1075
00:54:04.119 --> 00:54:05.679
<v Speaker 2>serious debugging or design work.

1076
00:54:05.880 --> 00:54:08.599
<v Speaker 1>Okay, and finally, beyond the bench tools, what about software

1077
00:54:08.639 --> 00:54:10.000
<v Speaker 1>tools and online resources?

1078
00:54:10.199 --> 00:54:12.400
<v Speaker 2>Yeah, the digital world offers a lot too. There are

1079
00:54:12.440 --> 00:54:16.199
<v Speaker 2>circuit simulation tools like circuit lab web based or lt

1080
00:54:16.360 --> 00:54:19.639
<v Speaker 2>spice free download, where you can design and test circuits

1081
00:54:19.760 --> 00:54:23.760
<v Speaker 2>virtually before building them. Saves time and potentially blown components.

1082
00:54:24.079 --> 00:54:28.320
<v Speaker 2>For designing customs circuit boards PCBs, there's software like egl

1083
00:54:28.360 --> 00:54:32.519
<v Speaker 2>E popular free version available, kikad open source, very powerful,

1084
00:54:32.880 --> 00:54:35.239
<v Speaker 2>or the more beginner friendly fritzing, which also helps with

1085
00:54:35.280 --> 00:54:40.400
<v Speaker 2>breadboard layouts and crucially leverage the amazing online resources and communities.

1086
00:54:40.719 --> 00:54:44.159
<v Speaker 2>Websites like Hackanmad dot com, instructibles dot com are full

1087
00:54:44.199 --> 00:54:48.199
<v Speaker 2>of project ideas and tutorials. The official Arduino site Arduino

1088
00:54:48.280 --> 00:54:52.039
<v Speaker 2>dot cc has huge forums and documentation. Retailers like spark

1089
00:54:52.079 --> 00:54:55.239
<v Speaker 2>fund dot com and adafruit dot com have fantastic tutorials

1090
00:54:55.280 --> 00:54:57.960
<v Speaker 2>alongside the parts they sell, and forums are great places

1091
00:54:58.000 --> 00:54:59.440
<v Speaker 2>to ask questions when you get stuck.

1092
00:54:59.559 --> 00:55:01.559
<v Speaker 1>Don't forge at places for parts too right.

1093
00:55:01.840 --> 00:55:04.760
<v Speaker 2>Besides the main distributors, deal extreme dot com and eBay

1094
00:55:04.800 --> 00:55:08.079
<v Speaker 2>dot com are mentioned for finding deals, especially from overseas sellers.

1095
00:55:08.480 --> 00:55:11.360
<v Speaker 2>The online hacker maker community is incredibly supportive and full

1096
00:55:11.400 --> 00:55:12.360
<v Speaker 2>of shared knowledge.

1097
00:55:12.440 --> 00:55:15.400
<v Speaker 1>Wow, okay, we have just taken a really deep dive

1098
00:55:15.480 --> 00:55:19.760
<v Speaker 1>into the surprisingly accessible world of electronics hacking. From understanding

1099
00:55:19.760 --> 00:55:24.480
<v Speaker 1>those fundamental concepts like Own's law and power, to demystifying

1100
00:55:24.519 --> 00:55:28.760
<v Speaker 1>components like resistors, transistors, moss fits, and even building complex

1101
00:55:28.800 --> 00:55:33.000
<v Speaker 1>projects like web controlled relays or automatic password entry devices,

1102
00:55:33.039 --> 00:55:34.079
<v Speaker 1>We've covered a lot of ground.

1103
00:55:34.440 --> 00:55:37.400
<v Speaker 2>What's truly fascinating here, I think, is the sheer breadth

1104
00:55:37.440 --> 00:55:39.760
<v Speaker 2>of what you can achieve with just that just do

1105
00:55:39.880 --> 00:55:43.679
<v Speaker 2>it mindset and really a few basic tools. The source

1106
00:55:43.719 --> 00:55:47.039
<v Speaker 2>material truly underscores that learning from hands on experimentation and

1107
00:55:47.079 --> 00:55:50.679
<v Speaker 2>embracing small, achievable projects is really the most effective path

1108
00:55:50.679 --> 00:55:52.840
<v Speaker 2>to understanding electronics. You don't have to be an expert

1109
00:55:52.840 --> 00:55:54.719
<v Speaker 2>to start building things exactly.

1110
00:55:55.320 --> 00:55:57.639
<v Speaker 1>We've seen that you don't need a formal engineering degree

1111
00:55:57.679 --> 00:56:01.639
<v Speaker 1>to create, fix, or repurpose electronic devis. The world is

1112
00:56:01.679 --> 00:56:04.840
<v Speaker 1>full of cheap components and hackable gadgets just waiting for

1113
00:56:04.880 --> 00:56:08.199
<v Speaker 1>your curiosity and creativity. So what does this all mean

1114
00:56:08.239 --> 00:56:11.000
<v Speaker 1>for you listening right now? It means the only real

1115
00:56:11.039 --> 00:56:13.800
<v Speaker 1>limit is your imagination and your willingness to actually get

1116
00:56:13.800 --> 00:56:16.840
<v Speaker 1>your hands dirty. Pick a simple project that interests you,

1117
00:56:17.039 --> 00:56:19.920
<v Speaker 1>grab a multimeter and a soldering iron, and just start.

1118
00:56:20.719 --> 00:56:23.079
<v Speaker 1>You might be genuinely surprised at what you can create.

1119
00:56:23.280 --> 00:56:23.920
<v Speaker 2>You really might.

1120
00:56:24.480 --> 00:56:26.480
<v Speaker 1>Now Here is a provocative thought for you to moll

1121
00:56:26.559 --> 00:56:30.840
<v Speaker 1>over as we wrap up in a world increasingly filled

1122
00:56:30.880 --> 00:56:34.239
<v Speaker 1>with complex, opaque, black box electronics that most of us

1123
00:56:34.239 --> 00:56:37.400
<v Speaker 1>don't understand at all. What might be the ultimate power,

1124
00:56:37.719 --> 00:56:40.960
<v Speaker 1>maybe even the subversive power, of simply understanding how to hack,

1125
00:56:41.280 --> 00:56:44.480
<v Speaker 1>to modify, repair, and create with even the simplest, most

1126
00:56:44.519 --> 00:56:49.119
<v Speaker 1>everyday devices. What unexpected innovations or maybe just useful fixes

1127
00:56:49.239 --> 00:56:51.880
<v Speaker 1>could spring from that very basic curiosity and willingness to

1128
00:56:51.920 --> 00:56:54.400
<v Speaker 1>experiment rather than just consume what's given to us.

1129
00:56:54.480 --> 00:56:55.800
<v Speaker 2>Hmmm, that's a good question.

1130
00:56:56.199 --> 00:56:59.159
<v Speaker 1>Join us next time on the deep dive as we

1131
00:56:59.239 --> 00:57:02.079
<v Speaker 1>continue to locked the knowledge hidden within your sources,
