Speaker 1: This is pet Life Radio.
Speaker 2: Let's Talk pets. Hello, Welcome to Canine Master Radio on
Speaker 2: pet Life Radio. I'm your host, Chris Somtek, and today
Speaker 2: I'm joined by Jamie Kelsey, the director of training at
Speaker 2: dog on Smart Norwalk, Connecticut. Hi Jamie, how are you today?
Speaker 1: Hi?
Speaker 3: Everyone doing great?
Speaker 2: So today I really have been getting a lot of
Speaker 2: private lessons and clients regarding resource guarding and food guarding,
Speaker 2: and actually I have a client with this exact issue
Speaker 2: this afternoon. I wanted to talk to you and really
Speaker 2: discuss how this happens, why this happens, and exactly what
Speaker 2: are the things that you might do to fix this.
Speaker 2: You know, one of the things is that if you
Speaker 2: have a dog that is attacking you over resource guarding
Speaker 2: or we'll call food guarding or food protectiveness and the
Speaker 2: dog's going after and actually biting, you need to see
Speaker 2: a behavior. So this discussion is really going to be
Speaker 2: meant to help when it's starting and how to prevent it.
Speaker 2: I think it's really important. We know that, but if
Speaker 2: you are having a dog that has attacked you or
Speaker 2: bitten you, you need to reach out to somebody like myself.
Speaker 2: We could either do it privately or on a zoom
Speaker 2: and you can contact Jamie Kelsey at Jamie Jaimee at
Speaker 2: dog on smart that's it dot com.
Speaker 3: Okay, that's it and yeah, Chris, we get these questions
Speaker 3: all the time, and many clients are in a panic.
Speaker 3: They want to know what do I do in the
Speaker 3: moment when it happens to keep myself safe? And how
Speaker 3: do I prevent it from happening again? And why is
Speaker 3: it happening?
Speaker 2: Yeah, so I think we need to understand why it happens.
Speaker 2: So typically when it comes to resource guarding, we see
Speaker 2: the following thing happen. Your dog grabs or your puppy.
Speaker 2: Its usually happens during imprint time. Unfortunately, your puppy grabs
Speaker 2: or your dog grabs a tissue, or he grabs your sock,
Speaker 2: or he grabs something with your scent on. It could
Speaker 2: be your underwear, it could be your pajamas, it could
Speaker 2: be your sunglasses. And you the owner go, oh my gosh,
Speaker 2: he has my sock and you run over to him
Speaker 2: and you go chuckles, how dare you give me that back?
Speaker 2: And you start getting angry. So the dog has it.
Speaker 2: It's in his mouth, and the dog is like, okay,
Speaker 2: I'm holding this resource. He's yelling at me or she's
Speaker 2: yelling at me. They want it. I don't know what
Speaker 2: to do, and they're getting angry at me. So when
Speaker 2: I have the resource, I'm now getting scared. You're yelling
Speaker 2: at them. Maybe you grab them and you rip it
Speaker 2: out of their mouths, and you get violent with them
Speaker 2: because they've chewed up your favorite item. And the dog
Speaker 2: starts to get what we call stuck emotionally on what
Speaker 2: to do. Doesn't know that letting it go will stop
Speaker 2: you from yelling grabbing them hard correction, doesn't know how
Speaker 2: to get out of the situation, and then get scared,
Speaker 2: and then what they do is they start to growl,
Speaker 2: and then you get more angry and you maybe come
Speaker 2: down harder on them, and then they're really getting defensive,
Speaker 2: and that's where it all starts, the aggression. So the
Speaker 2: worst thing that you can do when it comes to
Speaker 2: your dog having an item in its mouth is to
Speaker 2: come down on him and correct them. You miss the
Speaker 2: training opportunity. The training time is when the dog is
Speaker 2: thinking about grabbing your sock, thinking about getting that wrapper
Speaker 2: off of the floor. That's the time to redirect them,
Speaker 2: to stop them. It's when they're thinking about it. You know,
Speaker 2: always in correction is the best time to think to
Speaker 2: correct the dog is when they're thinking about doing the behavior.
Speaker 2: But in resource guarding, that's where it stops. You do
Speaker 2: not continue on to correct the dog once they are
Speaker 2: in possession of the object, You've missed the training opportunity.
Speaker 3: So, Chris, would you say that the more reaction we
Speaker 3: have to them having the object makes the resource of
Speaker 3: a higher value because we want it back so badly.
Speaker 2: Well, that's exactly true. That's a good point. So I
Speaker 2: think that if the dog thinks that you want it
Speaker 2: so badly, it must be a resource, it must be
Speaker 2: something that everybody wants. And because you're getting angry and
Speaker 2: you're asking for it, so it becomes sort of this
Speaker 2: vicious circle and the Dog's what happens is you almost
Speaker 2: in many cases, will see a dog his eyes will
Speaker 2: get glazed over. I've had clients saying to me, oh,
Speaker 2: my dog almost looks like he's possessed, you know, I
Speaker 2: see this glaze come over his eyes, and it's it's
Speaker 2: not that. What's happening is your dog is stuck in
Speaker 2: a behavior and he doesn't know how to get out
Speaker 2: of it. And you're getting angry at him, and all
Speaker 2: he knows is that he has something in his mouth
Speaker 2: and you want it. He wants it, everybody wants it.
Speaker 2: It's a scarce resource. So now we are actually creating
Speaker 2: resource guarding. That's where it starts. It starts with just
Speaker 2: one hard correction. And I can see sometimes people will
Speaker 2: grab the dog by the scuff of the neck. They'll yell,
Speaker 2: they'll scream, and the dog has never seen this kind
Speaker 2: of reaction before. And unfortunately the dog has your new
Speaker 2: pair of socks and you're you're getting angry and you're
Speaker 2: oh my god. Or the dog picked up a rock
Speaker 2: on your walk and you race to get to the dog,
Speaker 2: get me that rock in it out of its mouth,
Speaker 2: give me that up, and you've missed the timing. So
Speaker 2: there's something else that happens. There's a syndrome called pica
Speaker 2: pica syndrome. Pica syndrome is when a dog starts swallowing
Speaker 2: the objects, and it really can be quite dangerous to
Speaker 2: your dog.
Speaker 3: We see this all the time, and we see it
Speaker 3: all the time, and when people call and talk about
Speaker 3: resource guarding, I say, has your dog ever ingested and
Speaker 3: swallowed something? Oh?
Speaker 4: Yeah.
Speaker 3: We just were in the emergency vet last week, so
Speaker 3: we see it all the time.
Speaker 2: Yeah, and listen, if your dog swallows a sock. One
Speaker 2: of our trainers years ago had a Doberman that would
Speaker 2: go into her laundry basket and grab her socks and
Speaker 2: swallow them. And that dog had repeated surgeries over and
Speaker 2: over again to where they were cutting out parts of
Speaker 2: the intestines to pull out the sock. So this is
Speaker 2: a really serious thing. Once your dog starts to ingest items.
Speaker 2: We got another whole holst to promise. And this can
Speaker 2: easily be fixed before it starts. In other words, this
Speaker 2: can be prevented, not fixed. I mean it can be fixed,
Speaker 2: but it also can be prevented. And so here's what
Speaker 2: we need to do. When my dog is a puppy
Speaker 2: and he grabs an object, the first thing is look
Speaker 2: at the object. Is the object worth fighting over or
Speaker 2: going after? Maybe he's just figuring out the world around
Speaker 2: him with his mouth. He's picking up the stick, he's
Speaker 2: picking up the rock, he's picking up the piece of clothing,
Speaker 2: he's picking up the shoe, and he has it in
Speaker 2: his mouth, and you you know, why don't we just
Speaker 2: sort of redirect him onto something else, make it not
Speaker 2: interesting either ignore it, which is, if it's not harmful,
Speaker 2: then just ignore it. The second thing you can do is,
Speaker 2: if it is something that you want, try to distract
Speaker 2: him on to something else. Grab a treat, get a
Speaker 2: squeaky ball, something that you want to play with him with,
Speaker 2: so he gets it's not so interesting you don't care
Speaker 2: about that object. The next thing is is not if
Speaker 2: the dog has the object, many times, if they are
Speaker 2: in possession of it. The last thing you want to
Speaker 2: do is react, and reactions look like this to your dog.
Speaker 2: You look at them, you look at them, you yell
Speaker 2: at them, you say chuckles, don't you dare? You know?
Speaker 2: He's got to give that back to me. So now
Speaker 2: I've made it about the object. Okay, So what you
Speaker 2: want to do is a lot of times we tell
Speaker 2: people to put house lines on your dog. And that's
Speaker 2: like a on a flat collar. That's like a I
Speaker 2: don't know, four or five foot flat nylon inexpensive leash
Speaker 2: that I buy at pet Smart of the one of
Speaker 2: the stores, but it's not an expensive leash, and you
Speaker 2: take the loop handle, you cut that off, and now
Speaker 2: my dog has a house line. On while home and
Speaker 2: when I'm supervising him, not ever left on unsupervised. So
Speaker 2: the dog has now my sock in his mouth, and
Speaker 2: I'm not gonna look at him. I'm going to kind
Speaker 2: of back up and I'm gonna step on that leash.
Speaker 2: I'm not gonna look at him, not gonna say anything
Speaker 2: to him. I'm going to grab the leash. I'm gonna
Speaker 2: reel him to me, not looking at him. I'm gonna
Speaker 2: bend down. I'm grad just gently got to take it
Speaker 2: out of his mouth and continue on play. Nothing happened,
Speaker 2: no reaction. The dog is totally all.
Speaker 3: Set with that, no eye contact.
Speaker 2: No eye contact exactly. So we do that first, and
Speaker 2: that's a great first sort of first reaction. Okay, So
Speaker 2: now let's say that someone in the household made it
Speaker 2: about the object. Or let's say it's a food based item,
Speaker 2: it's a wrapper, it's a paper towel with bacon grease
Speaker 2: in it. Okay. Now we don't want to do and
Speaker 2: we're gonna say, Okay, is the item that he has
Speaker 2: in his mouth something that is dangerous to him? And
Speaker 2: this is what you want to ask yourself. Is it dangerous?
Speaker 2: Is it going to harm him, and is it going
Speaker 2: to harm my personal property in anyway? So those are
Speaker 2: the things. If it is nothing, why are we making
Speaker 2: it a big deal. If it is something that is
Speaker 2: your new pair of pants and he has it, or
Speaker 2: your your brand new shoes, that's something else. And if
Speaker 2: that's the case, this is what we do. The dog
Speaker 2: goes over to pick up a pair of shoes and
Speaker 2: as he starts walking over to get the shoes, he
Speaker 2: hasn't grabbed him yet. You correct him. Ah a guttural
Speaker 2: tone and instinctive warning chuckles. A ah no, no, no, no, no,
Speaker 2: you correct him there. Now let's say the chuckle. He
Speaker 2: doesn't listen to you, and he has the object. Okay,
Speaker 2: now he has the object, and you go, oh gosh,
Speaker 2: you're going to say nothing. You are going to go
Speaker 2: to the pantry or reach into your pocket. You're going
Speaker 2: to pull out some really good dog treats and you're
Speaker 2: going to walk over to him and you are going
Speaker 2: to say out or drop it, I don't care what
Speaker 2: the queue is. And you're going to then take the
Speaker 2: treat in front of his nose and let him smell it. Now,
Speaker 2: it's really important that the treat value is higher than
Speaker 2: what he has in his mouth. So if it's if
Speaker 2: it's bacon paper towel with bacon grease on it, that's
Speaker 2: a high value, I would say. So you're gonna need
Speaker 2: to come up with something really, really good. So you're
Speaker 2: going to say drop it. You're going to add the queue.
Speaker 2: You're going to say the queue. Now the que doesn't
Speaker 2: mean anything to him but you. Then you're going to
Speaker 2: put a little treat in front of his nose, and
Speaker 2: when he drops it, you're going to do it in
Speaker 2: this particular order. You're going to give him the tree,
Speaker 2: and right after you're going to reach for the item,
Speaker 2: you're gonna pull it away from him, give him the treat.
Speaker 2: Good boy, good boy, and he eats the tree. Now
Speaker 2: you're gonna do something which is really radical, if it
Speaker 2: is not something that you really care about. You're going
Speaker 2: to give him back the item. You're gonna go what.
Speaker 2: You're going to give him back the item, let him
Speaker 2: have it in his mouth. He's going to grab it,
Speaker 2: and then you're gonna repeat it. You're gonna say drop
Speaker 2: it or out or whatever your cue is. You're going
Speaker 2: to wag it in front of his nose. Let him
Speaker 2: smell it. He drops it, you're going to give him
Speaker 2: the retreat, grab the item and good boy, even jackpot
Speaker 2: a couple of treats. So now he's starting to realize
Speaker 2: that giving up the item is a good thing. Many
Speaker 2: times good things happen, So now we are not creating
Speaker 2: tension on him holding the object. And this is.
Speaker 3: Where it starts, Chris, would you recommend and sometimes we
Speaker 3: do this with clients. We actually practice this, So we
Speaker 3: start with low value items so we can teach it
Speaker 3: so that when they grab that HIV value item, this
Speaker 3: is already a command they're familiar with.
Speaker 2: Absolutely, this is something we should teach before this these
Speaker 2: have been happens, and it's a great thing to teach puppies.
Speaker 2: And I think in our puppy classes we do teach this, Jamie,
Speaker 2: do you want to go through the steps really quickly.
Speaker 3: Well, we teach to leave it when they're young, and
Speaker 3: use the clicker to kind of mark when they leave
Speaker 3: the object and come to us. But we do low
Speaker 3: value items. A paper towel holder. It doesn't smell like
Speaker 3: bacon grease. We may lead up to it smelling like
Speaker 3: bacon grease, but we'll teach a leave it and then
Speaker 3: click and then give them a treat and so they
Speaker 3: know leave it means drop it or stop and look
Speaker 3: at us. And so then we'll do that with low
Speaker 3: value items. Will make a course of low value items
Speaker 3: around the training room and gradually increase the value so
Speaker 3: that it's a familiar command and it works even with
Speaker 3: desirable items.
Speaker 2: Right, So, I think, you know, I think teaching that
Speaker 2: when their puppies is a really good good thing to
Speaker 2: learn for the dog. So again, never correct, never come
Speaker 2: down hard on the dog when they have the item. Okay,
Speaker 2: I think right now is a good time for us
Speaker 2: to take a break. We're going to come back and
Speaker 2: we're going to talk about food guarding, you know, over
Speaker 2: the dog ball. But I think this is a great
Speaker 2: place to stop. Stay tuned to Canine Master on pet
Speaker 2: Life Radio and we're going to be right back begging
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Speaker 2: Welcome back to Anie Master on pet Life Radio, and
Speaker 2: we are talking with Jamie Kelsey from Dog on Smart
Speaker 2: in Norwalk, Connecticut, the director of training, and we're talking
Speaker 2: about resource guarding and food guarding. Jamie, you had some
Speaker 2: some things that you wanted to discuss.
Speaker 3: Yeah, sure, I mean we talk about this all the
Speaker 3: time our team of trainers, and we always want to
Speaker 3: understand and learn cause before correction, and we talk about
Speaker 3: nature verse nurture. We get a lot of clients who
Speaker 3: just rescued dogs or looking to rescue a dog, and
Speaker 3: they ask us, do any breeds have the propensity for
Speaker 3: maybe food guarding, resource guarding? They have young kids, and
Speaker 3: so we talk a lot about the breeds that may
Speaker 3: be prone to this or more of a you know,
Speaker 3: a nurture type of environment that they came from, that
Speaker 3: we can predict if the dog will have resource guarding
Speaker 3: issues and how to modify them.
Speaker 2: Yeah. So that's a great thing. So let's talk about
Speaker 2: nature versus nurture. Dogs that have what we call high
Speaker 2: food drives. So dogs that can have high food drives,
Speaker 2: it could be within a breed, So you need to
Speaker 2: look at it is my dog always looking for a treat.
Speaker 2: If my dog goes to the veterinarian and he's nervous,
Speaker 2: will he take a treat? And if those are the
Speaker 2: kind of things that we look at, when the dog
Speaker 2: is anxious or fearful, his food drive is higher than
Speaker 2: his fear and that's a dog with a high food drive.
Speaker 2: There's also dogs that have a propensity that I have
Speaker 2: seen in my practice. I know is things like Springer
Speaker 2: Spaniels or Cocker spaniels. I've seen situations where dogs like
Speaker 2: even Golden Retrievers that have incredibly high food drives. And
Speaker 2: if the wrong things are done, like I said, a
Speaker 2: hard correction during imprint, when the dog has the object
Speaker 2: or we build tension on the dog bole these can
Speaker 2: make the dog have or develop resource guarding or food guarden.
Speaker 2: I want to talk about the dog that becomes aggressive
Speaker 2: when you go near his bowl or you're taking it
Speaker 2: something away from them, and you're going a lot of
Speaker 2: dogs will become that way, and that generally also is
Speaker 2: something that develops as the dog grows. There's a bad experience.
Speaker 2: So let's talk about one of the major behaviors that
Speaker 2: people train their dogs and many trainers across the United
Speaker 2: States and around the world teach this, and it actually
Speaker 2: helps contribute to food guarding. It's this I preparing my
Speaker 2: dog's food. I then go walk over to my dog
Speaker 2: with a big tasty bowl of food, and I tell
Speaker 2: my dog to sit. So he sits, and now I
Speaker 2: say stay, and I place the food bowl down in
Speaker 2: front of the dog and I have him wait. This
Speaker 2: is a disaster. Everybody tries to look look at the control.
Speaker 2: I hel over my dog. But what you're doing is
Speaker 2: you're creating tension on that food bowl. You're creating that
Speaker 2: this is a huge resource, something that everybody wants, and
Speaker 2: the dog is building tension on the food bawl. And
Speaker 2: by the time you say you know, okay or free
Speaker 2: dog or whatever your release queue is, and the dog
Speaker 2: runs over to the bowl and gets it. There is
Speaker 2: such high intensity around that bowl and if you go
Speaker 2: near it, he starts to grow. So food guarding is
Speaker 2: many times created that way. One of the worst things
Speaker 2: that we can do.
Speaker 3: Chris, I just wanted to ask, do you recommend feeding
Speaker 3: the dogs in the crate or not? There's mixed you
Speaker 3: feeding the crate teaching their creates a good place. But
Speaker 3: it also can teach them that no one bothers them
Speaker 3: when they're eating. And then also if you could speak
Speaker 3: a little bit about how we prep the puppies when
Speaker 3: they're eating to be eating with activity around them.
Speaker 2: Yeah, so I think you know a lot of people say, oh,
Speaker 2: I want my dog to go into the crate and
Speaker 2: I want to feed him in there because he's really
Speaker 2: really nervous. So I think that you need to know
Speaker 2: the temperament of your dog. If your dog is one
Speaker 2: that is fearful, that has what we call a cornered response.
Speaker 2: So if you were to grab your dog from underneath
Speaker 2: the bed, and your dog tends to hunker down, get scared,
Speaker 2: and as you're pulling him out from underneath the bed,
Speaker 2: he's very nervous and tries to hide from you. This
Speaker 2: is a dog I probably would not start out feeding
Speaker 2: in the crate. I would actually put the dog bowl
Speaker 2: in a quiet part in the kitchen maybe, or wherever
Speaker 2: you're feeding the dog a quiet area. I would put
Speaker 2: the bowl into a corner in the room and place
Speaker 2: the bowl down there. And then what I would do
Speaker 2: is leave the dog alone in the very beginning, so
Speaker 2: he's at least comfortable enough to eat. But then I
Speaker 2: would many times when the dog is eating, I might
Speaker 2: wander over to the ball, or wander over to the
Speaker 2: dog and drop in a piece of cheese or drop
Speaker 2: in a piece of something really high value into the
Speaker 2: bowl when he's eating, so that the dog starts to
Speaker 2: light the fact that you go near him when he's eating,
Speaker 2: because many times you drop in more great treats into
Speaker 2: the bowl. Now, this is a great technique just in
Speaker 2: general to prevent sort of food guarding resource guarding on
Speaker 2: my food bowl. And I tell people to do this
Speaker 2: from the start. When you have a puppy, always do
Speaker 2: this exercise. Your dog is eating, grab a nice high
Speaker 2: value treat, wander over towards the dog, drop the food
Speaker 2: in there when he's eating, and continue on your way.
Speaker 2: Do that several times so that you might even then
Speaker 2: reach down put in something really good, pick up the ball,
Speaker 2: reach down, pick up the ball, put a great value
Speaker 2: treat in there, and then place it back down. So
Speaker 2: he actually likes the fact that you go near his ball,
Speaker 2: pick up his bowl, and the dog will always think
Speaker 2: that you near the ball is a great thing. And
Speaker 2: then you want to what we call general this have
Speaker 2: your son or your child. Do this. Have somebody else
Speaker 2: out in the house. Do this, so the dog starts
Speaker 2: to welcome people near his ball because good things happen.
Speaker 3: That's great, and it's so important, especially with young kids.
Speaker 3: You know, if they're only putting the puppy in the crate,
Speaker 3: then they're outside playing with the kids. The puppy finds
Speaker 3: a chicken bone or something and the kids go near
Speaker 3: and it might start to guard that object because it's
Speaker 3: not used to having that activity around him when he's eating.
Speaker 2: Right. So now let's talk about Jennie, the dog that
Speaker 2: was adopted, you got him, the dog that now is
Speaker 2: when you go near his bowl, he starts, he starts
Speaker 2: tensing up, he hovers over the bowl. He may have
Speaker 2: a low, curling growl, and you're like, oh my gosh,
Speaker 2: this dog has issues around food. In this case, you
Speaker 2: may need to In many cases, I would say contact
Speaker 2: somebody like ourselves and do a private lesson to walk
Speaker 2: you through the steps. But I'm going to give it
Speaker 2: to you in broad strokes. Here. When you have a
Speaker 2: dog that is hunkering down and he's really growling about
Speaker 2: around his food when you go near him, you need
Speaker 2: to do the following. First of all, you need to
Speaker 2: make sure that he's not protective of a particular bowl.
Speaker 2: You might try a new bowl that looks different, but
Speaker 2: not only that, that's when you start this technique of
Speaker 2: trying to fix it. But what you're going to do
Speaker 2: is you are going to create a sound that is
Speaker 2: paired with a great treat. And I always say, you know,
Speaker 2: if you cook up liver, if you can go to
Speaker 2: Duchess and buy the liver sandwich without the bread and
Speaker 2: just ask them to cook it up, I'm looking for
Speaker 2: a real high resource item here. Liver is high, bacon
Speaker 2: is high. You know some of these, you can find
Speaker 2: a great treat that your dog absolutely adores. What you're
Speaker 2: going to do is I tell people to grab like
Speaker 2: a coffee can and put some high grade treats inside
Speaker 2: the coffee can. And this is not around the food bowl.
Speaker 2: This is just to get the dog used to that.
Speaker 2: This sound means that I'm about to open up the
Speaker 2: can and give you a great treat. So you're gonna
Speaker 2: sit down next to your dog. You're gonna put five
Speaker 2: or six great treats into this coffee can, and you're
Speaker 2: going to go shake, shake, Shake, Shake, shake, and then
Speaker 2: you're gonna open up the lid of the coffee can
Speaker 2: and you're gonna give your dog a treat. And you're
Speaker 2: gonna do that throughout the week. Shake, shake, shake, shake, shake,
Speaker 2: reach into the coffee can, give them a treat. And
Speaker 2: when the dog gets to hear you shaking the can,
Speaker 2: once your dog comes running to you. Now you know
Speaker 2: that the dog loves the sound of that shaking of
Speaker 2: the can because it means a great treat is coming. Okay, Now,
Speaker 2: what you're gonna do when your dog you got placed
Speaker 2: out his food bowl, he loves that sound and knows
Speaker 2: that a great treat is coming. What you're gonna do
Speaker 2: is is that you're going to put the food down.
Speaker 2: He's now eating his bowl, and you are going to
Speaker 2: shake the can and walk towards the bowl. Now, what
Speaker 2: you want to see is is that the dog already
Speaker 2: has the knowing that that sound mean great treats are coming.
Speaker 2: When you shake the can, and the dog should stop
Speaker 2: eating and look up to you. You walk over to
Speaker 2: the ball. Shake, shake, shake, shake, shake, as you're walking,
Speaker 2: keeping that sound going, take off the lid, drop in
Speaker 2: a treat and walk away, and you're going to do
Speaker 2: that for a good week to ten days he's eating.
Speaker 2: In the midst of his eating, you're going to go shake, shake, shake, shake, shake,
Speaker 2: lift up the lid, reach into the can, drop a treat,
Speaker 2: drop a treat into the ball, and you're going to
Speaker 2: do that over and over and over again until he
Speaker 2: starts loving the fact that you walk over to his ball.
Speaker 2: The next step is you're going to reduce the amount
Speaker 2: of shakes, and that you may do over the next
Speaker 2: few weeks. But this allows the dog to actually like
Speaker 2: the fact that you go near his bowl when he's eating,
Speaker 2: and it's a great transition. This technique has further things
Speaker 2: that we do, and I think, Jamie, we actually should
Speaker 2: almost do a whole complete radio show just on how
Speaker 2: to do this, and maybe maybe that could be part
Speaker 2: two to this. But that's a first step to getting
Speaker 2: you to be able to go near the ball when
Speaker 2: the dog is easy. And then what you may want
Speaker 2: to do is once the dog understands it and you've
Speaker 2: done that a few times, then have somebody else in
Speaker 2: the household do that. If at any time the dog
Speaker 2: becomes very aggressive or you get worried, it's time to
Speaker 2: give somebody like us a call and we'll we'll do
Speaker 2: a lesson with you privately. But that's what you would
Speaker 2: start doing. Okay, I think that's it for today, Jamie.
Speaker 2: I think we've really hit a lot of the issues.
Speaker 2: Is there anything else that maybe you wanted to touch on? Yeah,
Speaker 2: if you.
Speaker 3: Could just talk a little bit about the difference between
Speaker 3: and I know we're wrapping up, but between the dog
Speaker 3: that growls and then the dog that doesn't give the warning,
Speaker 3: because we get both with clients and their first question
Speaker 3: is well what do I do when he growls? Do
Speaker 3: I back away? And then we applying to say there's
Speaker 3: no warning at all, he just goes for me. So
Speaker 3: can you break down the difference in those reactions.
Speaker 2: That's actually a good way to end it. So if
Speaker 2: my dog, because I think we need to when it
Speaker 2: comes to food guarding, we do need to be very
Speaker 2: clear as to what I should call professional and when
Speaker 2: I can trobly treat this by myself. If there is
Speaker 2: no danger that you feel that the dog's going to
Speaker 2: bite you and attack you, then you can use the
Speaker 2: techniques that I just said. But if you think that
Speaker 2: after you maybe have tried this and there's still the
Speaker 2: dogs getting aggressive, then I would actually probably not I
Speaker 2: would probably call a professional. So if my dog is growling,
Speaker 2: my dog is growling because it's a warning, it's a feeling,
Speaker 2: it's the dog's feeling. I am feeling nervous, worried, scared,
Speaker 2: and defensive. So in that case, I know my dog
Speaker 2: would never bite me, or my dog is never gone
Speaker 2: to that next step, then you could do the technique
Speaker 2: that I'm talking about. But if my dog is growling
Speaker 2: and I've tried the technique and he doesn't care about
Speaker 2: the shaking of the can as I approach him, then
Speaker 2: I am probably gonna seek out a professional. Again, me
Speaker 2: back up. If he's growling, but there's no risk that
Speaker 2: I can continue with the program that I just describe.
Speaker 2: If he's growling and I've seen him get aggressive where
Speaker 2: he goes after me, that's when I call it professional.
Speaker 2: If I have a situation where the dog doesn't make
Speaker 2: us sound but he's tense, the same follows because if
Speaker 2: he's tense and you can see him all stiffen up
Speaker 2: over the bowl, that's a dog that is being protective
Speaker 2: of what he has. Again, you can try the techniques
Speaker 2: if you feel that it's not going to escalate into
Speaker 2: a bite. But if you have any worries that it's
Speaker 2: going to escalate into the dog going after you, it's
Speaker 2: time to seek out a professional. Very helpful. All right, Well,
Speaker 2: I think that is it for today. I'm really happy
Speaker 2: Jamie that you joined us today again, and it's so
Speaker 2: great to have you on the show. Maybe we just
Speaker 2: make you permanent here because it's so oh, it's such
Speaker 2: a great thing. And Jamie, you're so knowledgeable and really helpful.
Speaker 2: I think we'd love to hear your comments and you
Speaker 2: can also join the conversation. You can always email us
Speaker 2: at Chris at kanimaster dot com. And if you ever
Speaker 2: want to schedule any type of training or zoom lessons,
Speaker 2: you can reach out to Jamie at dog gonsmart dot com.
Speaker 2: That's j A I m Ee at dog do og
Speaker 2: gone g o n e smart dot com.
Speaker 3: Give me a call. You know, we can do some
Speaker 3: diagnostics over the phone and we can set a plan,
Speaker 3: customize and get you results.
Speaker 2: Yes, so make sure to visit our kimaster dot com.
Speaker 2: You can also sign up for our newsletters, which are
Speaker 2: really informative and they come out, you know, probably two
Speaker 2: times a month right now, but they're really really informative.
Speaker 2: Leave your questions for me. I'll do the best I
Speaker 2: can to get back to you. And you may even
Speaker 2: want to sort of shoot us a video so we
Speaker 2: can sort of see what problems are, what you're encountering. Okay,
Speaker 2: I guess that's it. BUYE for now, ye, and we'll
Speaker 2: see you next time on k I Master on pet
Speaker 2: Life Radio, where we will continue to help you master
Speaker 2: the relationship with your dog.
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Speaker 4: life radio dot com.