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<v Speaker 1>KFI AM six forty. You're listening to Dean Sharp the

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<v Speaker 1>House Whisper on demand on the iHeartRadio app. Today. I

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<v Speaker 1>want to talk to you about what's going on with

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<v Speaker 1>your house. I have no agenda but to talk with

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<v Speaker 1>you and see if I can help. Let's try and

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<v Speaker 1>get to Brad. Hey, Brad, welcome home.

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<v Speaker 2>I have a nineteen sixty house with ten foot ceilings

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<v Speaker 2>in the family room and I need to replace the

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<v Speaker 2>light bulbs in the ceiling fixtures. And I was wondering

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<v Speaker 2>how to determine how to get the correct bulbs for

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<v Speaker 2>the correct for brightness and also that are safe.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, So you've got obviously nineteen sixties fixtures, their standards,

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<v Speaker 1>screw in type bulbs. There, there are LED, there are

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<v Speaker 1>LED light fixtures and trims for those kinds of cans

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<v Speaker 1>that come with a little adapter so that they plug

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<v Speaker 1>from the LED fixture into a screw in adapter for

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<v Speaker 1>an older can light, a non LED dedicated can light.

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<v Speaker 1>So number one, that's what you're looking for. Number two,

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<v Speaker 1>you're looking for one of those kinds of trims that

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<v Speaker 1>are dimmable so that you've got complete control over all

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<v Speaker 1>of the lighting aspects. Through the room. Number three. You're

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<v Speaker 1>looking for, if we're talking about living room lighting, you're

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<v Speaker 1>looking for warm light. Warm not heavily ambered light, but

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<v Speaker 1>warm light. And what that means is that every light package, now,

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<v Speaker 1>especially LED lights, will have listed on it a temperature.

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<v Speaker 1>It's a color temperature. It's not a heat temperature. It's

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<v Speaker 1>a color temperature in terms of degrees kelvin. And so

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<v Speaker 1>it's gonna say it's gonna be a big number, and

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<v Speaker 1>then it's gonna be followed by a K. It's gonna

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<v Speaker 1>say something like four thousand K, five thousand K, three

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<v Speaker 1>thousand K. What we are looking for in living room lighting,

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<v Speaker 1>the LED equivalent of just old style incandescent bulbs is

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<v Speaker 1>roughly in the area of twenty eight hundred kelvin. Twenty

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<v Speaker 1>eight hundred K okay, definitely no greater than three thousand,

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<v Speaker 1>and that is not a that's color temperature. That's not

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<v Speaker 1>about brightness. But you get over three thousand K, which

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<v Speaker 1>is kind of daylight rated. At that point the light

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<v Speaker 1>becomes blue. It gets really blue, really harsh and uncomfortably

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<v Speaker 1>blue for an interior space. The closer you go down

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<v Speaker 1>in the other direction under three thousand, the more amber

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<v Speaker 1>the light gets. So, just to give you an idea,

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<v Speaker 1>you know, four thousand K is essentially sunlight and eighteen

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<v Speaker 1>hundred K is candle light. Okay, so what we're looking

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<v Speaker 1>for that replicates the old incandescent is basically, you know,

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<v Speaker 1>roughly twenty eight hundred K. Now brightness. That's the tricky thing,

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<v Speaker 1>but fortune lighting companies are making the transition easy. So

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<v Speaker 1>take a look at the wattage of the incandescent bulb

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<v Speaker 1>that you had in there, one hundred watts, sixty watt, eighty,

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<v Speaker 1>you know, whatever that might be when you're looking and

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<v Speaker 1>shopping for LEDs. The trick is that wattage was never

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<v Speaker 1>a measure of brightness. Okay, wattage is at is a

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<v Speaker 1>measure of energy consumption, but with an incandescent bulb, the

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<v Speaker 1>two go hand in hand. The more energy it consumes,

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<v Speaker 1>the brighter it is. And that's why we've all gotten

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<v Speaker 1>used to the idea like, oh, I think I need

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<v Speaker 1>a hundred watt bulb here for brightness as opposed to

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<v Speaker 1>a fifty watt bulb. LEDs don't work that way. LED's

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<v Speaker 1>power consumption is like four watts or six watts or

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<v Speaker 1>eight watts and so there's no way for us to

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<v Speaker 1>equate that except the manufacturers do it for you. On

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<v Speaker 1>the package. What you'll see are terms like forty watt equivalent,

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<v Speaker 1>one hundred watt equivalent. Okay, that's what you're looking for.

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<v Speaker 1>And while we're at it, everybody, we need to start

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<v Speaker 1>transitioning out of thinking about light bulb brightness in terms

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<v Speaker 1>of watts and do what scientists and lighting designers and

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<v Speaker 1>cinematographers have been doing forever, and that is using the

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<v Speaker 1>proper term, which is lumens. Lumens is the quantity of

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<v Speaker 1>bright light in a room. Okay, there you go. Let's

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<v Speaker 1>talk to Mike. Hey, Mike, welcome home.

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<v Speaker 3>Yes, we have a tankless tankless journal in our comedy club.

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<v Speaker 3>Two days after changing the filter, the proprietor complains that

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<v Speaker 3>it smells like that outhouse. Is there any fixed with that?

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<v Speaker 4>No?

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<v Speaker 1>Uh, okay, So when you say tankless you mean a

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<v Speaker 1>waterless urinal.

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<v Speaker 3>Yes that.

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<v Speaker 1>I'm just writing this down here because I've literally never

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<v Speaker 1>had this question before. Waterless urble at the comedy club

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<v Speaker 1>is smelling. So the trick with waterless urinals is that

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<v Speaker 1>they've got to be maintained properly. Of course, there's a

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<v Speaker 1>filter system connected to it. But also you got to

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<v Speaker 1>double check with your personnel to make sure they're being

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<v Speaker 1>cleaned the right way. Most people make the mistake of

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<v Speaker 1>assuming that, hey, it's a waterless urinal. So every once

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<v Speaker 1>in a while, when we clean this out, we better

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<v Speaker 1>flush it with some water, because a waterless urinal couldn't

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<v Speaker 1>possibly be cleaned in any other way, And in fact,

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<v Speaker 1>that's the exact opposite thing to do, because of well,

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<v Speaker 1>urine has scale, hard water scale deposits, and with that

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<v Speaker 1>comes build up on the inside of the pipes, and

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<v Speaker 1>then it becomes a place when it interacts with water

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<v Speaker 1>that bacteria starts to grow. So I am not an

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<v Speaker 1>expert in this area, but I do know this when

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<v Speaker 1>it comes to waterless urinals, there is a very very

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<v Speaker 1>specific cleaning methodology for them. And once a filter has

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<v Speaker 1>changed out, you may if anybody has induced water introduced

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<v Speaker 1>water into that drain pipe, then you gotta let it

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<v Speaker 1>dry out and then you got to return to standard

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<v Speaker 1>cleaning protocols, and they are very very specific. There's usually

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<v Speaker 1>a puck or an additive to go into the waterless system,

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<v Speaker 1>which begins breaking down the build up on the pipe.

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<v Speaker 1>Wall and killing off the bacteria and allowing it to

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<v Speaker 1>return to its clean, fresh smell once again. But the

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<v Speaker 1>one thing you don't do, and the thing I've heard

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<v Speaker 1>most often when a waterless urinal starts to smell, is

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<v Speaker 1>that somebody has cleaned it with water, which is just

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<v Speaker 1>not the right thing to do. That's the best I

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<v Speaker 1>can tell you, Mike. Return to those protocols. Make sure

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<v Speaker 1>nobody at the comedy club is cleaning that thing improperly.

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<v Speaker 1>If water was introduced, even in the change out of

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<v Speaker 1>the filter, like somebody felt like, oh we should also,

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<v Speaker 1>you know, we're changing out the filter, we should rinse

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<v Speaker 1>this out while we're at That could be the whole

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<v Speaker 1>issue right there. Waterless means waterless, and so refer to

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<v Speaker 1>your owner's manual when it comes to how to clean

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<v Speaker 1>that thing, and it's usually a dry puck that goes in,

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<v Speaker 1>starts absorbing on the sides of the pipe wall with

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<v Speaker 1>what tiny moisture is there and neutralizes the bacteria, takes

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<v Speaker 1>the smell away. There you go.

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<v Speaker 5>You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from

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<v Speaker 5>KFI AM six forty.

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<v Speaker 1>All right back to the phones, Tony, Welcome.

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<v Speaker 6>Home, Hi Dan, how are you. We're doing a complete

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<v Speaker 6>kitchen remodel with cabinets, floors, and appliances, and my question

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<v Speaker 6>is do the cabinets should those sit on the subfloor

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<v Speaker 6>or do we install all of the wood floors first?

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<v Speaker 6>And the part that seems the most trickiest from what

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<v Speaker 6>I've read is how to handle the dishwasher?

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<v Speaker 1>Ah? Yes, okay, So it's a good question, really good question.

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<v Speaker 1>And it depends. It depends. And I say that in

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<v Speaker 1>all sincerity because I don't know. Maybe I would say

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<v Speaker 1>maybe seventy five percent of the time. Typically we will

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<v Speaker 1>not install on top of the floors, on top of

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<v Speaker 1>the hardwood floor or the tile sometimes just purely from

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<v Speaker 1>the practicality that you know, why do you want to

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<v Speaker 1>run the expense of hardwood all the way underneath cabinet

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<v Speaker 1>kicks where it will never be seen again, so simply

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<v Speaker 1>to save square footage of cabinets. But there's also another reason,

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<v Speaker 1>I see, I'm sorry, save square footage of flooring material.

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<v Speaker 1>The other reason is that sometimes, quite often floors are

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<v Speaker 1>not perfectly level, and so your cabinet installers will quite

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<v Speaker 1>possibly have to shim up the rough cabinet kicks. Now

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<v Speaker 1>these days, rough cabinet kicks get shimmed, and then there

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<v Speaker 1>is a finished kickplate that goes over it, and then

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<v Speaker 1>the shims are hidden and they meet the floor very nicely.

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<v Speaker 1>So but that's a consideration as well. But I would

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<v Speaker 1>say typically what we're aiming for is to not run

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<v Speaker 1>material underneath the cabinet kicks because it's unnecessary. Now when

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<v Speaker 1>it comes to the dishwasher, whatever the flooring is in

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<v Speaker 1>the room that we do run into, because the dishwasher

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<v Speaker 1>is just an area, a void area, So we go

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<v Speaker 1>ahead and run that material into the dishwasher area so

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<v Speaker 1>that the dishwasher doesn't get trapped behind flooring material down

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<v Speaker 1>in the recess there. And I know some people are like, well,

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<v Speaker 1>I don't know if I want to run hardwood in there,

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<v Speaker 1>because what if the dishwasher leaks. I guarantee you, if

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<v Speaker 1>the dishwasher leaks and you've got hardwood in your kitchen,

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<v Speaker 1>it's going to go way beyond just the wood that's

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<v Speaker 1>directly underneath. It's going to affect wood in the whole

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<v Speaker 1>area there. So it's kind of a moot point when

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<v Speaker 1>it comes to of that argument. I just prefer the

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<v Speaker 1>idea that we can easily slide the dishwasher in and

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<v Speaker 1>out for installation or service or what have you. So

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<v Speaker 1>my recommendation is typically save the money on the extra

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<v Speaker 1>flooring material. Now, occasionally there is a situation where it's like, well,

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<v Speaker 1>I don't want to put the cabinets in yet because

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<v Speaker 1>there's all this other stuff and if we have to

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<v Speaker 1>set the cabinets then then they're going to get in

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<v Speaker 1>the way and they're going to get beat up. So

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<v Speaker 1>I'd rather have the flooring go in without the cabinets. Well,

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<v Speaker 1>you can ask your cabinet manufacture or installer to put

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<v Speaker 1>in rough kicks, just the kicks themselves detached from the

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<v Speaker 1>cabinet boxes, and that way, once the kicks are in place,

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<v Speaker 1>they determine the cabinet set and then your flooring people

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<v Speaker 1>can get in there and lay all the flooring in

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<v Speaker 1>the kitchen without the cabinets in their way. That's only

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<v Speaker 1>something that happens though, when it comes to cabinets that

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<v Speaker 1>have detachable kicks, where the kicks are separate from the

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<v Speaker 1>boxes themselves, and you have to talk to your cabinet

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<v Speaker 1>person about that. But typically, eh, we wouldn't you recommend

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<v Speaker 1>wasting material underneath a cabinet Kate, does it matter, though

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<v Speaker 1>not really, it's not really going to change the install much.

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<v Speaker 1>Always account for the height of the hardwood floor, though,

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<v Speaker 1>so don't set yourself up for a thirty six inch

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<v Speaker 1>tall countertop, then put in, you know, five eighths or

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<v Speaker 1>three quarters of an inch of hardwood and find yourself

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<v Speaker 1>with shorter cabinets. So the kicks have to be taller

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<v Speaker 1>if they're going to go in before the hardwood. Thanks

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<v Speaker 1>for the question, Tony Herman, Welcome home.

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<v Speaker 4>Thank you.

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<v Speaker 6>I got a question.

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<v Speaker 3>I want to build a retaining wall in my backyard

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<v Speaker 3>by myself.

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<v Speaker 6>How can I go about.

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<v Speaker 1>That retaining wall in your backyard by yourself? It all

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<v Speaker 1>depends on what you want the wall to look like.

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<v Speaker 1>If you want it completely straight up and down vertical,

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<v Speaker 1>you want it out of cinder block, you want to

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<v Speaker 1>cover it with stucca or plaster or something like that.

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<v Speaker 1>But I can tell you this. The general rule is

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<v Speaker 1>this for most municipalities, and I say this as a qualifier.

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<v Speaker 1>I say most municipalities, even though it's pretty much all

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<v Speaker 1>there are depending on the size of your lot, the location,

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<v Speaker 1>and the soil conditions. Sometimes there are deviations of this,

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<v Speaker 1>but for most municipalities, any retaining quote unquote retaining wall

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<v Speaker 1>that is holding back less than three feet of soil

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<v Speaker 1>you can do without a permit and without engineering. The

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<v Speaker 1>easiest way to go about doing that is to head

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<v Speaker 1>on down to the building supply, whether you've got a

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<v Speaker 1>stone yard near you, a home depot, Low's, you know,

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<v Speaker 1>a lumberyard, and get those interlocking, stacked, racked back retaining

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<v Speaker 1>wall blocks. There's several different versions, but they lock into

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<v Speaker 1>each other and you can simply line out the bottom.

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<v Speaker 1>Now they do slope back ever so slightly, because every

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<v Speaker 1>course above the previous course sets back just ever so slightly,

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<v Speaker 1>and you can build a nice little garden retaining wall

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<v Speaker 1>out of that material in an afternoon or a couple

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<v Speaker 1>of days, depending on how long obviously the wall is.

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<v Speaker 1>But basically, you lay a course, you backfill it with

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<v Speaker 1>a little soil up to that course, set the next course,

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<v Speaker 1>keep backfilling and setting and backfilling, and legally you can

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<v Speaker 1>go in most municipalities up to three feet and that'll

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<v Speaker 1>hold just fine, and it'll last long, and you'll get

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<v Speaker 1>plant growth out of it, which I really like, because

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<v Speaker 1>I don't like bare walls when it comes to that

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<v Speaker 1>kind of landscaping stuff. So that's the general gist of it. Herman.

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<v Speaker 1>If you have special soil conditions on your property and

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<v Speaker 1>you know it, then you might need a permit. If

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<v Speaker 1>you are going to be retaining more than three feet

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<v Speaker 1>of soil surcharging the back of the wall, then you're

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<v Speaker 1>going to need a permit, and you need some engineering.

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<v Speaker 1>And that engineering is going to be for the proper

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<v Speaker 1>sized footing and steal in that footing so that the

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<v Speaker 1>pressure of the soil behind the wall doesn't basically roll

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<v Speaker 1>the wall over, doesn't doesn't knock it down. How about

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<v Speaker 1>some more of your calls when we return. You are

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<v Speaker 1>listening to Home with Dean Sharp the house whisper.

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<v Speaker 5>You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from

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<v Speaker 5>KFI AM six forty.

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome home, Thank you, Dean.

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<v Speaker 4>I'm noticing a pattern. I am sixty, early sixties, and

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<v Speaker 4>I'm noticing that guys that come in to quote me,

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<v Speaker 4>the contractors, the four that have come in in the

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<v Speaker 4>last three months, have all said, after I tell them

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<v Speaker 4>what I want, you don't want that, and you don't

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<v Speaker 4>want to go through the city, and we don't need

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<v Speaker 4>to permit and no one's going to know because you

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<v Speaker 4>live here now and you need to staff and now

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<v Speaker 4>we want to save five grand or more, so you

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<v Speaker 4>don't want to go through the city. So telling you this,

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<v Speaker 4>every one of them they don't know. I work with

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<v Speaker 4>the city, not for but with them for my second job.

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<v Speaker 4>It's just not even that so insulting. And they want

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<v Speaker 4>to get someone younger. They're like, what do you want

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<v Speaker 4>to do, and they're really straightforward. You're going to need

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<v Speaker 4>a permit and there's no nothing else. They're just respectful.

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<v Speaker 4>So I don't know if it's something like on the

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<v Speaker 4>slim shady like older generation, but I'm very disappointed because

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<v Speaker 4>I left these strangers in my home and you know,

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<v Speaker 4>with all the health to take you all the health

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<v Speaker 4>situations is like it ends up not crash and burn.

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<v Speaker 4>I can't hire any one of these four. And I'm

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<v Speaker 4>I'm really disappointed, thank you. I'm very disappointed that I

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<v Speaker 4>held out for these guys, you know, and I'm just

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<v Speaker 4>there and when they come in, I tell them what

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<v Speaker 4>I want. I'm very professional, and they're like, you don't

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<v Speaker 4>want that, and they've reconfigured my whole They're telling me

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<v Speaker 4>what to do and I don't want to argue with them,

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<v Speaker 4>which I could, because I'm scared if I'm the only

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<v Speaker 4>one home. I don't want them to get hurt in

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<v Speaker 4>my house because I will not back off, but I

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<v Speaker 4>do because I'm intimidated by their quote. But we're bearing this.

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<v Speaker 4>I just don't know if it's a whole thing that

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<v Speaker 4>I should just go with a younger contractor that goes

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<v Speaker 4>by the book. You know.

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<v Speaker 1>Yeah, I feel you. I feel you. I wish I

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<v Speaker 1>wish that what you were telling me was something that

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<v Speaker 1>was not very common surely, but you know what the

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<v Speaker 1>truth is, there is just let's just talk about it

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<v Speaker 1>for a second. There is a lot of agism in

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<v Speaker 1>the contracting world, and there's a lot of sexism in

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<v Speaker 1>the contracting world still, and yes, you're gonna find it

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<v Speaker 1>in general now. I you know, I gotta be really

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<v Speaker 1>careful that because I don't want to. There are some

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<v Speaker 1>brilliantly fantastic contractors out there who are older, you know,

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<v Speaker 1>men and women who've been doing this for a long time.

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<v Speaker 1>They've got a lot of experience and they are intensely

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<v Speaker 1>respectful and they don't pull that kind of crap on people.

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<v Speaker 1>But for whatever reason, there is a certain kind of

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<v Speaker 1>neanderthalic old school builder still out there that and I

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<v Speaker 1>hear stories about it all the time of that kind

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<v Speaker 1>of stuff happening. So let me just dissect really quickly

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<v Speaker 1>a couple of things that you said, or deconstruct it,

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<v Speaker 1>just to make sure that we're clear on this number one.

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<v Speaker 1>There is no room for that kind of thing. And

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<v Speaker 1>it's not just about somebody's mannerism. I say this all

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<v Speaker 1>the time. When you start to work with a contractor,

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<v Speaker 1>it is a relationship that you're having. Okay, You're going

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<v Speaker 1>to be in that relationship through thick and thin, through

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<v Speaker 1>very stressful moments, through all sorts of mess and trial

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<v Speaker 1>and circumstance. And if you don't feel comfortable with a

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<v Speaker 1>vibe that is being put off, then I don't care.

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<v Speaker 1>I don't care what their price is, I don't care

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<v Speaker 1>how high their level of so called expertise is. Pass

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<v Speaker 1>you know what, because they're not the only fish in

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<v Speaker 1>the in the sea. They just aren't. There are a

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<v Speaker 1>lot of contractors out there, and so, you know, unfortunately

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<v Speaker 1>for you, it sounds like the first three or four

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<v Speaker 1>were kind of all fell into that category. But I'm

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<v Speaker 1>just going to encourage you. There are more you do

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<v Speaker 1>not want to enter into a relationship for a remodel

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<v Speaker 1>something so important with a contractor who is going to

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<v Speaker 1>talk down to you. And especially this as a designer,

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<v Speaker 1>this just gets under my skin all the time builders

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<v Speaker 1>coming in and saying, oh, no, no, you don't want that. Now,

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<v Speaker 1>I will give this caveat Okay, if three builders come

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<v Speaker 1>into a situation and look at a plan and they

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<v Speaker 1>all have the same constructive critique of a particular plan,

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<v Speaker 1>my ears are open, and so should yours be. If

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<v Speaker 1>somebody is coming in and saying because I do that

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<v Speaker 1>sometimes as a designer, I do it all the time. Actually,

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<v Speaker 1>I walk into a home and I'm like, this idea

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<v Speaker 1>right here, I'm not sure this is the best way

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<v Speaker 1>to approach this, because I think you're going to run

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<v Speaker 1>into problem ABC and D. Okay. If you're getting a

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<v Speaker 1>consensus of contractors you respect telling you I'm not sure

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<v Speaker 1>this is a good idea, then it may be a

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<v Speaker 1>good idea to step back and reevaluate the plan. But

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<v Speaker 1>just the idea. There is a kind of builder out

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<v Speaker 1>there who has their opinion about what your house should

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<v Speaker 1>look like, and you know it. Guess how much I

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<v Speaker 1>care about that. As an actual home designer, I care

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<v Speaker 1>about it zero percent. And how many times do I

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<v Speaker 1>have this conversation with contractors whenever I need to? There

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<v Speaker 1>are times when you know, and I have the advantage

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<v Speaker 1>because I've been a builder myself for thirty five years

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<v Speaker 1>and so plus years now, I'd like, I'm just going

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<v Speaker 1>to stick with thirty five instead of saying plus. But

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<v Speaker 1>a lot of contractors actually shame designers and architects as

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<v Speaker 1>well because are like, well, you guys don't have the

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<v Speaker 1>hands on knowledge of what happens. I happen to have both.

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<v Speaker 1>So I get to look back at them and say, listen, bud,

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<v Speaker 1>I'm going to show you exactly right now how much

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<v Speaker 1>I care about your opinion of what this should look like.

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<v Speaker 1>I care zero percent. You are here to build this plan.

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<v Speaker 1>You either do it or we'll move on to somebody else.

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<v Speaker 1>And that's the way it's going to be. I am

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<v Speaker 1>not concerned about what your opinion of this is. Do

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<v Speaker 1>you want to build this or don't you? So yeah, yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>that's kind of a hot button for me too, surely.

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<v Speaker 1>So Number one, don't ever get into a relationship with

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<v Speaker 1>a contractor who you're not feeling a good vibe with

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<v Speaker 1>number two, don't let them talk down to you or

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<v Speaker 1>man explain you or tell you that what you want

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<v Speaker 1>is something that you shouldn't have. And finally, if it

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<v Speaker 1>is a Now, there are some aspects of home remodeling

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<v Speaker 1>that don't require permits. Flooring, kitchen, cabinet, tree, things like that,

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<v Speaker 1>although when you do a kitchen cabinet remodel, if we're

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<v Speaker 1>moving electrical and plumbing, that requires a permit. So there

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<v Speaker 1>are facets of work in the house that don't require permit.

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<v Speaker 1>But if it's something that requires a permit and you

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<v Speaker 1>want to pull the permit and you're the homeowner, you're

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<v Speaker 1>the boss, and that's the way it's going to be.

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<v Speaker 1>So there you go, very simply put, Sureley, thanks for

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<v Speaker 1>the call. I am sorry that you've run into that

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<v Speaker 1>kind of trouble, but my own encouragement to you is

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<v Speaker 1>stick to your guns. There are more fish in the sea.

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<v Speaker 1>Don't settle for these losers. You are listening to Home

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<v Speaker 1>with Dean Sharp the House Whisper.

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<v Speaker 5>You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from

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<v Speaker 5>KFI AM six forty.

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<v Speaker 1>If your Home with Dean Sharp, the house whisper, It's

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<v Speaker 1>time to go to the phone. Let's find out what's

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<v Speaker 1>going on with you. Why don't we talk to well,

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<v Speaker 1>let's just go right to the top, Karen, Welcome home.

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<v Speaker 7>I live in Los Angeles County and in my backyard,

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<v Speaker 7>I have a detached twenty three by twenty garage twenty

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<v Speaker 7>three wide, and I want to make an eight hundred

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<v Speaker 7>tware foot accessory dwelling unit. So the garage is built

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<v Speaker 7>in two thousand and five. Is it going to be

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<v Speaker 7>cheaper for me knock down the garage and start all

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<v Speaker 7>over again? And just so you know, the washer and

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<v Speaker 7>dryer is currently in the garage. Is it going to

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<v Speaker 7>be cheaper to knock down the garage and start fresh

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<v Speaker 7>and clean with that detex eight hundred square foot unit,

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<v Speaker 7>or will it be cheaper to knock out the wall

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<v Speaker 7>and extend it to forty wide from twenty three wides?

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, here is my answer. Okay, I don't know, I

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<v Speaker 1>don't know. Oh no, but here are the factors involved. Okay,

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<v Speaker 1>it may very well be cheaper to just to go

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<v Speaker 1>with the existing structure, because you've got an existing structure, right,

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<v Speaker 1>It's really a question of how well the garage is built.

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<v Speaker 1>Is the garage built, Can the garage be brought Is

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<v Speaker 1>it at code? Can it be brought up to code?

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<v Speaker 1>Is the slab on the garage sloped? Are you gonna

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<v Speaker 1>have to contend with that because it's got a eighth

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<v Speaker 1>inch per foot slope on it? Or is it perfectly

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<v Speaker 1>flat and ready to become a floor of a dwelling unit.

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<v Speaker 1>There are a lot of factors that go into play. Now,

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<v Speaker 1>the question of as far as the city is concerned, Okay,

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00:23:38.359 --> 00:23:42.119
<v Speaker 1>as far as La County is concerned, they're just gonna

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<v Speaker 1>put their hands up and say, hey, whatever you want

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<v Speaker 1>to do, We're fine with you converting the garage, but

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<v Speaker 1>it's going to have to be to code. We're also

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<v Speaker 1>fine if you want to knock it down and go

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<v Speaker 1>for eight hundred square feet new. Ideally, if it works

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<v Speaker 1>with your design and you've got structure there that's worth saving, ideally,

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<v Speaker 1>it will probably be the best and least expensive route

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<v Speaker 1>to keep it and just build off of it. You know,

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<v Speaker 1>I always say this when it comes to room editions

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<v Speaker 1>in general, and one of the reasons as a designer,

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<v Speaker 1>when I come into your home and you're like, you

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<v Speaker 1>know what, I just need, we need more space, so

414
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<v Speaker 1>we're gonna push out, we need a new master bedroom

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<v Speaker 1>pushed out of the back of the house. And you know,

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<v Speaker 1>room edition, room edition, room editions. So many people are

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<v Speaker 1>talking room edition, and I put a pin in that

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<v Speaker 1>at the beginning of our conversation and say, Okay, are

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<v Speaker 1>you sure that you need more square footage or just

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<v Speaker 1>to improve the flow of your existing home. And the

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<v Speaker 1>reason I do that is not because I've got anything

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<v Speaker 1>against room editions. I don't. It's just that slabs and

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<v Speaker 1>roofs are expensive and they're not the kinds of things

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<v Speaker 1>that we experience on a daily base. So if you've

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<v Speaker 1>already got one, you've already got half of the slab

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<v Speaker 1>that you need. If you already have half of the

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<v Speaker 1>roof that you need, why not you know, build onto it.

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<v Speaker 1>So I think, Karen, your best situation is to figure

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<v Speaker 1>out what a plan might look like back there, see

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<v Speaker 1>if the garage can become a part of it. Talk

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<v Speaker 1>to a build or get a contractor or two over,

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<v Speaker 1>have them take a look at the garage and give

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<v Speaker 1>you their professional eyes on opinion as to whether the

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<v Speaker 1>garage is just a you know, shambles in terms of

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<v Speaker 1>current code or whether they're like, no, no, no, we

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<v Speaker 1>can work with this relatively easy. And that's just that's

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<v Speaker 1>just a whole nother segment of the new build that

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<v Speaker 1>you don't have to duplicate.

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<v Speaker 7>Can the city say eight hundred like they had before

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<v Speaker 7>the ADU, they.

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<v Speaker 8>Had a requirement that, as an example, a one bedroom

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<v Speaker 8>must be like, let's say eight hundred square feet, right,

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<v Speaker 8>I'm not exactly sure of the numbers, but let's just

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<v Speaker 8>say it was a one bed. If I was going

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<v Speaker 8>to build a branding place with the ADU, am I

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<v Speaker 8>exempt from that? Can I still turn eight hundred square

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<v Speaker 8>feet into two bedrooms? Or could they say no, under

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<v Speaker 8>o les, eight hundred square feets not is only big

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<v Speaker 8>enough one bedroom?

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<v Speaker 1>Nope, Now you can show them. You show them on

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<v Speaker 1>the plan where you get two habitable rooms plus you know,

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<v Speaker 1>a useful kitchen and bathroom and closet space out of that,

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<v Speaker 1>and they are no longer in a position to shut

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<v Speaker 1>you down on it.

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<v Speaker 8>So thank you, sir.

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<v Speaker 7>And my last question is on a contractor. Is there

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<v Speaker 7>a contractor like to contractors do the plans and contracting

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<v Speaker 7>or I have to get an architect and a contractor.

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<v Speaker 1>Okay, well, okay, a couple of modifications on both of

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<v Speaker 1>your both of these answers. Yes, there are contractors that

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<v Speaker 1>do design build. Okay, I'm always a little you know,

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<v Speaker 1>I'm a I'm a home designer and have been a

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<v Speaker 1>builder for many years, and as a design I'm always

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<v Speaker 1>a little bit wary of design build contractors. Not that

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<v Speaker 1>there aren't some fantastic designers out there who also build,

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<v Speaker 1>but a lot of contractors who call themselves design build

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<v Speaker 1>are really not going to give you all your money's

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<v Speaker 1>worth in the design department. So just be aware of that.

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<v Speaker 1>But they are there, and you certainly should investigate that. Uh.

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<v Speaker 1>You you asked the question about an architect, So just

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<v Speaker 1>to be clear, yeah, you can totally hire an architect.

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<v Speaker 1>But in the state of California, Uh, you don't have

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<v Speaker 1>to be a licensed architect. You can be an experienced designer,

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<v Speaker 1>a licensed art You don't have to be a licensed

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<v Speaker 1>architect to build a residential structure up to three stories

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<v Speaker 1>in height. You could design it yourself if you want to.

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<v Speaker 8>Sure, Okay, that's very good.

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<v Speaker 1>You don't need a licensed architect, or you can hire

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<v Speaker 1>a designer, a decorator, anybody who's got the talent to

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<v Speaker 1>get that design just right for you, okay, and that

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<v Speaker 1>thank you.

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<v Speaker 8>Great pay you too.

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<v Speaker 1>Karen, thanks for these questions, really really good. You're listening

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<v Speaker 1>to Home with Dean Sharp, the House Whisper on KFI.

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<v Speaker 1>This has been Home with Dean Sharp, the House Whisper.

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<v Speaker 1>Tune into the live broadcast on KFI AM six forty

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00:28:12.400 --> 00:28:15.559
<v Speaker 1>every Saturday morning from six to eight Pacific time, and

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00:28:15.640 --> 00:28:18.880
<v Speaker 1>every Sunday morning from nine to noon Pacific time, or

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00:28:19.119 --> 00:28:22.359
<v Speaker 1>anytime on demand on the iHeartRadio app
