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<v Speaker 1>KFI AM six forty. You're listening to Dean Sharp, the

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<v Speaker 1>House Whisperer on demand on the iHeartRadio app KFI AM

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<v Speaker 1>six forty Live everywhere on the iHeartRadio App. Hey, welcome

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<v Speaker 1>to home Where. Every week we help you better understand

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<v Speaker 1>that place where you live. I am Dean Sharp, the

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<v Speaker 1>House Whisperer, custom home Builder, custom home designer, and your

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<v Speaker 1>guide to turning your ordinary house into an extraordinary home.

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<v Speaker 1>We're talking about fences, walls, and hedges. What do these

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<v Speaker 1>things have in common? They define boundaries. They also shape spaces,

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<v Speaker 1>because that's what a boundary does. It defines the shape

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<v Speaker 1>of a space, and they contour whatever setting they find

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<v Speaker 1>themselves in in the third dimension. We so often think

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<v Speaker 1>about our yards, our gardens front back, otherwise as forwards, backwards,

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<v Speaker 1>left and right. These flat spaces, a fence, a wall,

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<v Speaker 1>a hedge, regardless of its height, they rise up into

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<v Speaker 1>the third dimension. They bring a three dimensional aspect to

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<v Speaker 1>our yards, which is critically important for a dynamic and

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<v Speaker 1>a romantic and a beautiful yard. And of course they

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<v Speaker 1>also provide, to whatever degree they are able, if they're

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<v Speaker 1>on the perimeter, privacy and or security. I'm going to

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<v Speaker 1>try to attempt to do this today. I'm going to

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<v Speaker 1>speak both from a builder side and from the designer side,

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<v Speaker 1>flopping back and forth between the two so that we

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<v Speaker 1>don't have to ignore one or the other. Where we're

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<v Speaker 1>going to start is on the simple side of things.

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<v Speaker 1>I want to talk about wood fences. Wood fences are

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<v Speaker 1>still primarily the majority of fences that are out there.

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<v Speaker 1>If we're deconstructing a fence, from a builder's point of view,

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<v Speaker 1>a fence is not a thing. A wood fence is

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<v Speaker 1>three things. It is an assembly of three things. It

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<v Speaker 1>is the hole for the posts, post holes. Okay, that's

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<v Speaker 1>the first thing that a fence is. The second thing

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<v Speaker 1>is the frame, and that is the posts that go

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<v Speaker 1>in those holes and the rails that run in between

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<v Speaker 1>those posts. That's the frame of the fence. And the

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<v Speaker 1>third thing on the fence is the skin or the slats. Right,

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<v Speaker 1>chances are, if there's something wrong with your fence, there's

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<v Speaker 1>something wrong with one or maybe a couple of those things,

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<v Speaker 1>but maybe not all of them. The reality is that

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<v Speaker 1>if you know, people often say, oh, my fence, it's

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<v Speaker 1>falling apart, I need to replace it. Well, the reason

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<v Speaker 1>I'm sharing these three distinct components assemblies with you. Is

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<v Speaker 1>so that you can become a better doctor of evaluating

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<v Speaker 1>your fence that may be in trouble on some level. Now, yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>of course there are some fences that are just like done.

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<v Speaker 1>They're done, they've been neglected, they are over and they

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<v Speaker 1>need to be pulled and replaced. The point is you

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<v Speaker 1>need to look at all three components of your fence

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<v Speaker 1>to figure out what exactly is going on. Almost all

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<v Speaker 1>the time, what is quote unquote falling apart on your

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<v Speaker 1>fence is not all three components, but one maybe two.

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<v Speaker 1>So you look at the posts and if the posts

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<v Speaker 1>are solid, then they're solid. They can be they can continue.

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<v Speaker 1>The rails, which are the horizontal boards that run in

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<v Speaker 1>between the posts on a wood fence, and we're specifically

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<v Speaker 1>talking about a wood fence here. The rails, that's a

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<v Speaker 1>separate component. And if you've got a rail that's failing,

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<v Speaker 1>then the slats can be removed carefully and the rail

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<v Speaker 1>can be replaced, and then the slats reapplied and boom,

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<v Speaker 1>what have you done. You've only spent money on you know,

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<v Speaker 1>a two by piece of material and the little bit

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<v Speaker 1>of time that it takes to reinsert that into the

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<v Speaker 1>fence assembly and boom, your fence is back in action.

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<v Speaker 1>Most likely, most of the time, it's slats that are

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<v Speaker 1>taking most of the abuse from use in the yard

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<v Speaker 1>and exposure to the weather, and slats fall apart, and

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<v Speaker 1>slats can be replaced. So that's the point. The moral

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<v Speaker 1>of the story is that now a lot of confusion

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<v Speaker 1>when it comes to the most intimidating part of the fence.

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<v Speaker 1>If we're doing a new fence, and what is that

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<v Speaker 1>the post and the hole, Right, it's always the question

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<v Speaker 1>how deep, how big of a hole do we need?

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<v Speaker 1>The depth of a post hole for a wooden fence,

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<v Speaker 1>typical wooden fence, and yes there are always exceptions to

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<v Speaker 1>this role, but the depth of a post hole is

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<v Speaker 1>at least a third. Sometimes you might want to go

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<v Speaker 1>even further up to a half, but one third to

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<v Speaker 1>one half the height of the fence. Okay, that means

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<v Speaker 1>that if your fence is going to be a six

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<v Speaker 1>foot tall fence, that means that you're going two to

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<v Speaker 1>three feet down, all right, A six foot high fence

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<v Speaker 1>post above the ground needs at least two feet down

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<v Speaker 1>in the ground, and to really really sink it in

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<v Speaker 1>three feet. So half of the height up is the

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<v Speaker 1>distance that we go down for the hole. How about

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<v Speaker 1>the width? Okay? Now, this is where I have been

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<v Speaker 1>in so many situations and built so many different kinds

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<v Speaker 1>of fences that I'm going to give you a couple

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<v Speaker 1>of different points here. Not every fence has to be

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<v Speaker 1>anchored into concrete or into some kind of fence anchoring material.

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<v Speaker 2>All right.

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<v Speaker 1>There are fences all over my own yard here as

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<v Speaker 1>a perfect example that Tina and I put in I

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<v Speaker 1>don't know how many, ten fifteen plus US years ago,

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<v Speaker 1>still standing, just perfectly fine. Okay. That are literally where

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<v Speaker 1>the posts are inserted into a relatively tight hole. Okay,

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<v Speaker 1>a temporary fence, a fence that you think, well, I

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<v Speaker 1>think I need this fence for now, but maybe in

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<v Speaker 1>two or three years we may change the contour of

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<v Speaker 1>this fence. My suggestion would be drop it into a

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<v Speaker 1>really tight hole. You want to keep the hole as

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<v Speaker 1>tight to the size of the post as possible so

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<v Speaker 1>that you get the most stability with undisturbed soil around it.

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<v Speaker 1>All right, depth still the same, okay? So how wide

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<v Speaker 1>is the post hole tight? If it's temporary tight okay,

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<v Speaker 1>or if you're really going to go permanent. Now, the

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<v Speaker 1>standard rule and that is three to four times the

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<v Speaker 1>width of the post for wood, okay. And if it's

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<v Speaker 1>a steel post, either a steel net. And I know

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<v Speaker 1>you're saying, wait, you're talking about a wood fence. Yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>the best, most permanent wood fences use often steel posts.

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<v Speaker 1>The perimeter of fence around my property, for instance, we

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<v Speaker 1>used steel channel posts that are specifically designed to have

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<v Speaker 1>wood rails attached to them, and guess what, twenty three

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<v Speaker 1>years later, those posts are still perfectly intact. And if

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<v Speaker 1>at any point I'm going to redo my fence, the

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<v Speaker 1>posts are not moving. They are just going to have

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<v Speaker 1>new rails and new slats attached to them. So three

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<v Speaker 1>to four times the width of the post, if it's wood, okay,

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<v Speaker 1>That means if you're using a four by four, then

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<v Speaker 1>it's about twelve inches of post hole in diameter down

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<v Speaker 1>the two or three feet, and if you're using steel,

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<v Speaker 1>then at least eight inches wide. There you go. You

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<v Speaker 1>got that. You get all that written down?

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<v Speaker 2>Good?

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<v Speaker 1>Okay. If you didn't, you listen to the podcast later

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<v Speaker 1>and pull those dimensions back up. When we return to

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<v Speaker 1>this subject, I am going to talk about the posts themselves. Okay,

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<v Speaker 1>what touches the dirt? What should that be made out of?

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<v Speaker 1>And how when you are building a fence for the

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<v Speaker 1>very first time, do you keep it all in a

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<v Speaker 1>straight line? And what do you put in that hole

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<v Speaker 1>to hold those posts in place? Your home with Dean

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<v Speaker 1>Sharp the house Whisper, can't I Dean Sharp the house whisper.

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome home. We're talking about fences and walls and hedges today.

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<v Speaker 1>We're going to return to that conversation in just a bit.

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<v Speaker 1>But time to go to the phones. Let's talk to Lou. Hey, Lou,

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<v Speaker 1>welcome home.

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<v Speaker 3>My question it's about toilets. I got two new toilets installed.

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<v Speaker 3>Toilets were installed very well. They did a nice job.

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<v Speaker 3>There is about a fashion of the water that my

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<v Speaker 3>previous toilets had and I'm not sure if that's a

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<v Speaker 3>good idea not. They say it's a new type of toilet.

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<v Speaker 3>It's designed for that amount of water to function properly.

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<v Speaker 3>Second question I have, Dean, is that it has a

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<v Speaker 3>serpentine plumbing on the base and I was sureous why

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<v Speaker 3>is it serpentem? And the third question I have would

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<v Speaker 3>it be wise to flush them occasionally with the old

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<v Speaker 3>garden host.

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<v Speaker 1>First of all, congratulations on the new toilets. And yeah,

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<v Speaker 1>these days California State of California requires this, and most

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<v Speaker 1>states now across the nation require low flow toilets. And

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<v Speaker 1>low flow is just kind of a given. It's you know,

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<v Speaker 1>it was a big deal back in the past, and

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<v Speaker 1>there were different ways of accomplishing it, and honestly, when

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<v Speaker 1>it first came out, I wasn't all that thrilled with

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<v Speaker 1>the way that they worked. But nowadays it's just a given.

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<v Speaker 1>And yeah, there's nothing wrong with a low flow toilet.

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<v Speaker 1>Does not hurt the toilet, does not hurt the pipes,

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<v Speaker 1>does not hurt your plumbing. You are golden and good

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<v Speaker 1>to go with a low flow toilet, and you know,

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<v Speaker 1>just helps the fact that they don't have to use

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<v Speaker 1>as much water anymore. A better design for a toilet

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<v Speaker 1>not as much water to get the same work done. Secondly,

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<v Speaker 1>if you're looking down underneath the toilet and you see

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<v Speaker 1>kind of that squarely pipe there, that's because a toilet

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<v Speaker 1>has a pea trap built into it. Okay, a pea

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<v Speaker 1>trap is basically allows it to after a flush, hold

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<v Speaker 1>on to a level of water, and that level of

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<v Speaker 1>water acts as a stop gap plug basically to keep

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<v Speaker 1>sewer gases from coming back up the line and into

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<v Speaker 1>the toilet. And so it's simply a design of the

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<v Speaker 1>toilet fixture. A lot of people are surprised that the

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<v Speaker 1>piping underneath a toilet, like in your slab or in

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<v Speaker 1>your house, does not have a pea trap located there.

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<v Speaker 1>It's actually in the toilet itself, and that way we

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<v Speaker 1>can just keep the flesh line nice and clean and straightforward.

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<v Speaker 1>So you know, you've got a pea trap underneath all

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<v Speaker 1>of your vessel in your house, all of the sinks,

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<v Speaker 1>they've got this pe shaped kind of squirrely thing underneath it.

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<v Speaker 1>That's just what you're seeing there, built into the actual

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<v Speaker 1>structure of the toilet itself. Finally, should you ever have

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<v Speaker 1>to flush them with a garden hose? Nope, you should

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<v Speaker 1>be good to go. The only time you've got to

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<v Speaker 1>put anything down there other than you know, the water

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<v Speaker 1>that you've flushed with is if for some reason you've

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<v Speaker 1>got some kind of a clog or otherwise. But otherwise

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<v Speaker 1>you are golden. I want to talk to Henderson. Henderson,

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<v Speaker 1>welcome home. Are you there?

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<v Speaker 4>I am here. I'm building a house and one of

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<v Speaker 4>the things I was listening at painting my Kiston walls,

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<v Speaker 4>and I was thinking of paint in it, like semi

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<v Speaker 4>glass or something along that line. But the contract is

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<v Speaker 4>always say flat. Everyone always says take the siling flat.

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<v Speaker 4>But my father is greases in the kitchen. The walls

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<v Speaker 4>would be about My walls would be about ten feet high,

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<v Speaker 4>and I was just taking for a maintenance flat. Would

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<v Speaker 4>that be the best choice.

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<v Speaker 1>You are absolutely right, my friend, that flat is not

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<v Speaker 1>the best choice there for your kitchen. We want to

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<v Speaker 1>avoid glossy paint in our home as much as possible, Okay,

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<v Speaker 1>except on trim like casings, door casings, jams, those kinds

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<v Speaker 1>of things, base boards, even at that. I'm not a

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<v Speaker 1>big fan of high gloss anytime in those situations. And

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<v Speaker 1>I'll tell you why, because the high reflectivity of a

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<v Speaker 1>high gloss paint means that any imperfection, I mean anything,

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<v Speaker 1>a dent, a nail hole, scratch, they it just comes

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<v Speaker 1>blaring out. You can see it from across the room.

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<v Speaker 1>So just know, as a general rule, the more reflective

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<v Speaker 1>the paint is, the more perfect that surface has to be,

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<v Speaker 1>otherwise it's going to show off all of its flaws. Okay,

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<v Speaker 1>So we don't want shiny shiny shiny as a general

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<v Speaker 1>rule anywhere. However, you're absolutely right. The reason why paints

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<v Speaker 1>are as reflective as they are is because a high

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<v Speaker 1>gloss paint. The more gloss that's in a paint. As

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<v Speaker 1>a general rule, okay, as again a general rule that

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<v Speaker 1>I'm going to make exception to it in just a second,

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<v Speaker 1>but as a general rule, the more gloss that is

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<v Speaker 1>in a paint, the higher the solids are in the resins,

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<v Speaker 1>and that means that it's harder paint. It's a harder surface,

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<v Speaker 1>and as a result, it's easier to keep clean from

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<v Speaker 1>things like you know, grease splatters and dirt and so

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<v Speaker 1>on and so forth. Any contractor with their salt should

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<v Speaker 1>not be telling you to put flat paint in a kitchen.

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<v Speaker 4>Okay.

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<v Speaker 1>Flat paint has the lowest number of solids in the resins.

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<v Speaker 1>It's almost an open, porous surface, and that's why flat

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<v Speaker 1>painted walls are really really tough to clean. As a

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<v Speaker 1>general rule, we don't want that. However, the contractor is

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<v Speaker 1>right from a design perspective in that the flatter that

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<v Speaker 1>a wall is, the flatter that a ceiling is, the

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<v Speaker 1>less it reflects in perfections, and the more beautiful and

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<v Speaker 1>soft and glowy the room becomes. So what do we

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<v Speaker 1>do then with a kitchen. Well, I'm just going to

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<v Speaker 1>make a direct product recommendation to you. And yes, Benjamin

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<v Speaker 1>Moore is a sponsor of this show, but only because

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<v Speaker 1>I went out to get them and said, you have

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<v Speaker 1>to sponsor my show because I've been using your paint

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<v Speaker 1>for thirty nearly forty years now professionally and I'm your

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<v Speaker 1>best advocate. So Benjamin Moore has two paints here, Aura

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<v Speaker 1>au are A or scuff X. Okay, I have painted

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<v Speaker 1>the entire inside of my house, our cottage in scuff X.

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<v Speaker 1>Tina and I have. And here is one of the

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<v Speaker 1>reasons why the scuff X is actually designed to be

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<v Speaker 1>a commercial paint for like educational institutions and libraries and

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<v Speaker 1>public spaces, because it is so dang tough and it

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<v Speaker 1>is easy to clean. However, it comes in multiple sheens

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<v Speaker 1>and they're all cleanable, including Matt. That's the key Matt finish. Okay,

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<v Speaker 1>it's scuff X does not come in a flat, but

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<v Speaker 1>it comes in a Matt and Matt is just ever

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<v Speaker 1>so slightly the tiniest bit of sheen, not enough to

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<v Speaker 1>be reflective, but enough to be like tough, I mean

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<v Speaker 1>like tough. So what you want, okay, regardless of what brand,

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<v Speaker 1>you don't have to go with my recommendation, but whatever

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<v Speaker 1>brand that you're looking for, that you end up with

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<v Speaker 1>Henderson to paint the house with point is we want

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<v Speaker 1>a little bit of sheen that makes it cleanable, but

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<v Speaker 1>not so much that makes it shiny, so definitely not

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<v Speaker 1>not gloss or semigloss. The secret of painting a kitchen

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<v Speaker 1>is getting that, you know, balancing act between non reflectivity

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<v Speaker 1>and clean ability. Thanks for calling in. When we come back,

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<v Speaker 1>we're going to get back to that wood fence that

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<v Speaker 1>we were talking about. We're going to talk about what

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<v Speaker 1>we are putting in that fence, post hole, what's anchoring

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<v Speaker 1>the post, what kind of a post, and how do

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<v Speaker 1>you get them all lined up the right way? All

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<v Speaker 1>of that and more. Your Home with Dean Sharp, the

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<v Speaker 1>House Whisper.

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<v Speaker 5>You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from

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<v Speaker 5>KFI AM six forty.

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<v Speaker 1>KFI Dean Sharp the House Whisper at your service. It's

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<v Speaker 1>time to get back to talking about fences and hedges

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<v Speaker 1>and walls. All right, we're right in the middle of

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<v Speaker 1>We need to get this fence, this new wood fence

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<v Speaker 1>of yours in the ground. How far apart should fence

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<v Speaker 1>posts be? That has to do with your rails, the

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<v Speaker 1>actual wood rails that you connect between the two. I

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<v Speaker 1>personally would not put fence posts further than eight feet apart.

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<v Speaker 1>Number one, it's a nice convenient to distance in terms

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<v Speaker 1>of the rails because you get two by four lumber

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<v Speaker 1>as rails that are eight feet long. Now, of course

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<v Speaker 1>you can get larger two by fours than that longer

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<v Speaker 1>two by fours, but anything beyond eight feet what we

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<v Speaker 1>end up seeing is sagging, and what we don't want

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<v Speaker 1>is a saggy fence. What goes in the hole? Well,

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<v Speaker 1>the post, right, what is that post made out of?

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<v Speaker 1>On a wood fence? Without question, the wood post should

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<v Speaker 1>be pressure treated lumber. Pressure treated lumber is different than

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<v Speaker 1>regular lumber. Regular lumber is in no way, shape or

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<v Speaker 1>form ever rated to be in direct contact with soil

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<v Speaker 1>or moisture. Pressure treated lumber is what that is. For now,

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<v Speaker 1>some of you were saying, well, listen, we're going to splurge, Dean.

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<v Speaker 1>We're going to use the best stuff. We're going to

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<v Speaker 1>put in redwood fence with redwood posts or a cedar

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<v Speaker 1>fence with cedar posts, and the redwood and cedar, as

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<v Speaker 1>we all know, is totally moisture and rot proof and

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<v Speaker 1>bug proof. That is incorrect, that's not true at all.

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<v Speaker 1>Redwood and cedar, as a natural red product, is certainly

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<v Speaker 1>far more rot and moisture resistant and far more insect

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<v Speaker 1>resistant than standard Douglas fir or what have you. However,

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<v Speaker 1>it doesn't even come close to the moisture resistance of

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<v Speaker 1>pressure treated lumber. And that's why I'm telling you use

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<v Speaker 1>pressure treated posts and rails. Use a pressure treated frame

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<v Speaker 1>for your fence. Okay, now you're like, well, but our

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<v Speaker 1>design of a fence, you're gonna see the post. Great,

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<v Speaker 1>take a couple of extra of those cedar or redwood

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<v Speaker 1>slats that you're using, those flat one by redwood slats

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<v Speaker 1>and cut them to wrap the outside of your post

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<v Speaker 1>so that it looks cedar or redwood and matches everything

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<v Speaker 1>else but inside the heart of it. Use pressure treated lumber. Now,

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<v Speaker 1>you could also use galvanized steel posts going down there,

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<v Speaker 1>and like I said earlier, there is a whole slew

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<v Speaker 1>of them that are made. They're more expensive by maybe

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<v Speaker 1>twice as expensive as a pressure treated wood post, but

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<v Speaker 1>they also, you know, last forever, and they're a lot

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<v Speaker 1>stronger as well. The last thing to tell you right

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<v Speaker 1>now is what do we fill that hole with? And

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<v Speaker 1>how do you, if this is a brand new fence,

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<v Speaker 1>make it all straight. We already know the kind of

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<v Speaker 1>post you're going to use, a pressure treated post or

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<v Speaker 1>some kind of galvanized steel post in your fence. Now

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<v Speaker 1>what do we put in the bottom? About six inches

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<v Speaker 1>of gravel? Okay, that's it, Just some loose gravel at

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<v Speaker 1>the bottom. That's what the post is actually going to

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<v Speaker 1>sit on, so that the water, whatever water works its

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<v Speaker 1>way into that hole has a place to drain off.

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<v Speaker 1>That is our preferred method for setting posts. Then the post.

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<v Speaker 1>Now what goes in post hole cement? There is post

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<v Speaker 1>whole cement mix available on the market today and this

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<v Speaker 1>is not a hack on my part. This is how

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<v Speaker 1>it's made ready mixed post whole cement. Literally, you break

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<v Speaker 1>the bag open, you pour the dry stuff just right

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<v Speaker 1>down into the hole, and then you pour the water

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<v Speaker 1>in with the hose. You let it fill up in,

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<v Speaker 1>swish it around, maybe just a smidge.

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<v Speaker 5>And the end.

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<v Speaker 1>Unless you really want to be twenty first century about this,

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<v Speaker 1>and you use expansive post hole foam, and is it

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<v Speaker 1>worth it? It is worth every penny. Post Hole expansive foam

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<v Speaker 1>ways about half a pound. And you carry the package

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<v Speaker 1>home with you in your pocket basically or in your

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<v Speaker 1>little shopping bag, and you're going to break this stuff open.

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<v Speaker 1>On the inside, you're going to mix one side to

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<v Speaker 1>the other. There's a catalyst and the foaming agent inside.

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<v Speaker 1>Then you cut it open and you pour it into

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<v Speaker 1>the post hole. And amazingly, it's kind of like the

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<v Speaker 1>same stuff that comes in the spray cands that expand

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<v Speaker 1>out when you're trying to fill holes around the house,

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<v Speaker 1>right expansive foam, except this stuff just keeps going and

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<v Speaker 1>going and going, and it will literally fill up the

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<v Speaker 1>entire post hole if you've sized it properly. Fifteen bucks,

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<v Speaker 1>so as opposed to the ten that you're going to

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<v Speaker 1>spend on the cement, you spend fifteen for this. You

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<v Speaker 1>do not lug around one hundred pounds of the cement.

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<v Speaker 1>And I don't know a single builder who is serious

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<v Speaker 1>about post holes that hasn't switched over to this Honestly, now,

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<v Speaker 1>I will tell you this, this is the one caveat

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<v Speaker 1>not for structural stuff. Foaming posthole cement is not for

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<v Speaker 1>setting the posts and the piers of your new deck

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<v Speaker 1>or anything that has a foundation. Really, anything that's going

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<v Speaker 1>to bear wait on top of these posts. Okay, but

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<v Speaker 1>a regular fence, everything from the post that holds your

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<v Speaker 1>mailbox out front, to the gate posts to just your

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<v Speaker 1>regular perimeter fence posts. This stuff will get the job done.

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<v Speaker 1>And the beautiful thing about it is that how long

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<v Speaker 1>do you How much bracing do you have to do

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<v Speaker 1>with the post? Right, because I'm about to talk to

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<v Speaker 1>you about if you use cement, We've got to brace

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<v Speaker 1>these posts in two directions with a board heading one

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<v Speaker 1>way and another to get this post perfectly plumb, to

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<v Speaker 1>hold it in place, preferably overnight, for the posthole cement

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<v Speaker 1>to set up so that you go back the next day. Okay,

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<v Speaker 1>Now with the foaming post hole foam, how long do

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<v Speaker 1>you have to wait? Well, all you need is a

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<v Speaker 1>very very simple little three dollars post hole level, which

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<v Speaker 1>is a little right angle level with a rubber band

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<v Speaker 1>around it. You just wrap it around the post and

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<v Speaker 1>you put the phone in and you sit there, level

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<v Speaker 1>it with your hand and stand there for all of

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<v Speaker 1>two minutes, and then two minutes later you walk away

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<v Speaker 1>and it's done. I will throw one more benefit at it.

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<v Speaker 1>This is closed cell foam. Okay, it doesn't get all

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<v Speaker 1>huge bubbles in it. Okay, it's closed cell foam. And

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<v Speaker 1>so it actually forms a complete waterproof barrier around the

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<v Speaker 1>post inside the hole in the ground. So post hoole

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<v Speaker 1>cement is cement, and as you've heard me say so

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<v Speaker 1>many times before on the show, cement is nothing but

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<v Speaker 1>a stone sponge. Moisture moves right through it. So even

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<v Speaker 1>though you surround your post in cement, you're not protecting

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<v Speaker 1>it from moisture. That's why you used the pressure treated wood.

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<v Speaker 1>Now you're still going to use the pressure treated wood

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<v Speaker 1>no matter what. Okay. But the expansive post hole foam.

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<v Speaker 1>The thing that I maybe love most about it, other

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<v Speaker 1>than its utter lightweight, convenience and speed, is the fact

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<v Speaker 1>that it is going to wrap the entire base of

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<v Speaker 1>this post in a It's gonna seal it from moisture.

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<v Speaker 1>One last thing, how do you make a fence line straight?

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<v Speaker 1>Here's how you do it. You go to the corners.

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<v Speaker 1>One corner, you set a post plumb and straight. Then

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<v Speaker 1>you go all the way and the next post that

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<v Speaker 1>you're gonna set is at the other corner, at the

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00:24:26.480 --> 00:24:29.240
<v Speaker 1>other end of the fence line. You set that post

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00:24:29.559 --> 00:24:34.359
<v Speaker 1>both end posts first, and then you run a string

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<v Speaker 1>line or a laser between the two posts, and every

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00:24:39.960 --> 00:24:43.960
<v Speaker 1>post in between has to hit that line or line

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<v Speaker 1>up with that laser. And that is how you're gonna

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<v Speaker 1>get your fence perfectly straight, no matter how long the run.

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<v Speaker 1>So much more to come your home with Dean Sharp

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<v Speaker 1>the house Whisper kf I, Dean Sharp the House Whisper,

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<v Speaker 1>Welcome home. We're talking about fences and walls and hedges.

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<v Speaker 1>We're going to be talking walls next, but right now,

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<v Speaker 1>near the top of the hour, it's time to go

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<v Speaker 1>to the phones. I want to talk to Kelly. Hey, Kelly,

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<v Speaker 1>welcome home.

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<v Speaker 2>I have a question regarding a manufactured home that I

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<v Speaker 2>have with a crawl space and a garage that's on

417
00:25:21.440 --> 00:25:25.640
<v Speaker 2>the ground, and since the big rainstorm with over eight inches,

418
00:25:25.680 --> 00:25:28.599
<v Speaker 2>where I'm at every evening or night, there's a light

419
00:25:28.759 --> 00:25:34.480
<v Speaker 2>sewer smell emanating from both bathrooms and I'm not sure

420
00:25:35.200 --> 00:25:38.480
<v Speaker 2>what it is. And I ran into a neighbory yesterday

421
00:25:38.519 --> 00:25:41.599
<v Speaker 2>and he's having the same issue and has called out

422
00:25:41.599 --> 00:25:47.200
<v Speaker 2>an environmental team, called out is ACA guy and no answers.

423
00:25:47.839 --> 00:25:50.759
<v Speaker 1>A light sewer smell coming out of both bathrooms and

424
00:25:50.880 --> 00:25:55.000
<v Speaker 1>only since the rains, Yes, your manufactured home, is it

425
00:25:55.039 --> 00:25:56.079
<v Speaker 1>sitting on a slab?

426
00:25:56.559 --> 00:25:56.880
<v Speaker 3>Yes?

427
00:25:57.920 --> 00:26:02.559
<v Speaker 1>Well, exactly sure to tell you the truth, Kelly, just

428
00:26:02.599 --> 00:26:07.319
<v Speaker 1>because of the circumstance. Now, Typically, typically when you get

429
00:26:07.359 --> 00:26:11.200
<v Speaker 1>a sewer smell in a bathroom coming out of a bathroom,

430
00:26:11.599 --> 00:26:14.839
<v Speaker 1>there's usually only two or three different causes for that.

431
00:26:15.839 --> 00:26:18.480
<v Speaker 1>One is that the bathroom has not been used in

432
00:26:18.559 --> 00:26:21.559
<v Speaker 1>quite a while, and therefore the water in the pea

433
00:26:21.640 --> 00:26:26.680
<v Speaker 1>traps of the sink and the shower has evaporated out

434
00:26:26.839 --> 00:26:31.440
<v Speaker 1>enough that sewer gas has now started to creep out

435
00:26:31.680 --> 00:26:34.440
<v Speaker 1>of the pipes. Because the water in the pea trap

436
00:26:34.519 --> 00:26:37.400
<v Speaker 1>is what blocks the sewer gas that's in the sewer

437
00:26:37.440 --> 00:26:41.400
<v Speaker 1>line from getting into our homes via our sinks and

438
00:26:41.880 --> 00:26:48.119
<v Speaker 1>tubs and so on. That is usually the reason for that.

439
00:26:48.240 --> 00:26:50.839
<v Speaker 1>Kind of like when you walk into an empty home

440
00:26:50.920 --> 00:26:53.319
<v Speaker 1>or a home that's for sale that hasn't been lived

441
00:26:53.359 --> 00:26:55.359
<v Speaker 1>in for a while, sometimes you get that weird smell

442
00:26:55.400 --> 00:26:58.319
<v Speaker 1>and you know what's going on with this. It's because

443
00:26:58.400 --> 00:27:00.519
<v Speaker 1>probably the pea traps have dry out and there's a

444
00:27:00.559 --> 00:27:03.759
<v Speaker 1>little bit of sewer gas leaking in, giving that off smell.

445
00:27:04.200 --> 00:27:06.480
<v Speaker 1>The other reason, if it is a bathroom that gets

446
00:27:06.559 --> 00:27:09.039
<v Speaker 1>used a lot, could be the same kind of thing

447
00:27:09.079 --> 00:27:13.319
<v Speaker 1>happening underneath the toilet, if the toilet seal is starting

448
00:27:13.359 --> 00:27:17.160
<v Speaker 1>to fail or has cracked. And that's because and the

449
00:27:17.200 --> 00:27:20.200
<v Speaker 1>reason wouldn't apply the same way to sinks and faucets

450
00:27:20.279 --> 00:27:22.880
<v Speaker 1>is I think I mentioned this to an earlier caller

451
00:27:23.119 --> 00:27:25.440
<v Speaker 1>who just got brand new toilets. But the pea trap

452
00:27:25.480 --> 00:27:29.920
<v Speaker 1>in a toilet is up inside the toilet itself. Therefore,

453
00:27:30.799 --> 00:27:34.680
<v Speaker 1>even if the toilet's full of water, if the gasket

454
00:27:34.920 --> 00:27:38.160
<v Speaker 1>or the seal underneath the toilet where it connects to

455
00:27:38.200 --> 00:27:41.880
<v Speaker 1>the flange is cracked or broken open, then the sewer

456
00:27:42.319 --> 00:27:44.519
<v Speaker 1>gas can leak out there because there's no pea trap

457
00:27:44.640 --> 00:27:48.279
<v Speaker 1>stopping it before it hits that point. That's another thing.

458
00:27:48.400 --> 00:27:53.240
<v Speaker 1>And the third reason for the typically that we get

459
00:27:53.640 --> 00:27:58.640
<v Speaker 1>a smell in a bathroom or coming out of a

460
00:27:58.680 --> 00:28:03.359
<v Speaker 1>sink or a tub drain is that there's for some

461
00:28:03.400 --> 00:28:06.680
<v Speaker 1>reason or other kind of an overgrowth of bacteria that's

462
00:28:06.720 --> 00:28:09.160
<v Speaker 1>not a hygiene thing. It's just something that can happen

463
00:28:09.200 --> 00:28:14.200
<v Speaker 1>sometimes with water content and so on, and so have

464
00:28:14.359 --> 00:28:17.440
<v Speaker 1>you Have you tried like a pouring vinegar or something

465
00:28:17.519 --> 00:28:18.599
<v Speaker 1>down the drain there?

466
00:28:19.160 --> 00:28:22.400
<v Speaker 2>Yes, I did vinegar and let it fit for about

467
00:28:22.400 --> 00:28:24.200
<v Speaker 2>a half an hour, and then I ran water for

468
00:28:24.359 --> 00:28:26.960
<v Speaker 2>ten minutes in a tub and a shower that are

469
00:28:27.000 --> 00:28:30.640
<v Speaker 2>not used. In fact, the tub hadn't been used at all,

470
00:28:30.839 --> 00:28:32.680
<v Speaker 2>even I clean it, but it doesn't get a lot

471
00:28:32.720 --> 00:28:37.000
<v Speaker 2>of water. And that didn't work. But last night was

472
00:28:37.039 --> 00:28:39.519
<v Speaker 2>the first night I didn't smell the smell, so I thought,

473
00:28:39.559 --> 00:28:42.240
<v Speaker 2>maybe does it take time? And then eventually it worked.

474
00:28:42.799 --> 00:28:45.000
<v Speaker 1>Yeah. That's the thing is that you may want to

475
00:28:45.039 --> 00:28:48.839
<v Speaker 1>go for it a few times. Vinegar is a great

476
00:28:48.880 --> 00:28:53.079
<v Speaker 1>solution for a bacterial That sounds gross to say that

477
00:28:53.160 --> 00:28:56.359
<v Speaker 1>there's a bacterial infection growing in your drain lines, but

478
00:28:56.400 --> 00:28:59.599
<v Speaker 1>it happens sometimes. Vinegar is a great solution for that.

479
00:28:59.640 --> 00:29:03.160
<v Speaker 1>But it's not a one you know, if it's substantial,

480
00:29:03.200 --> 00:29:06.319
<v Speaker 1>it's not a one time shot or one time fixed,

481
00:29:06.359 --> 00:29:09.039
<v Speaker 1>so you may want to treat it two or three times.

482
00:29:09.119 --> 00:29:12.799
<v Speaker 1>I'm not exactly sure though, Kelly, that that you know,

483
00:29:12.960 --> 00:29:17.160
<v Speaker 1>just to that that's exactly putting your finger on the issue.

484
00:29:17.240 --> 00:29:20.880
<v Speaker 1>But those are the three typical causes. What I'm trying

485
00:29:20.920 --> 00:29:22.880
<v Speaker 1>to sit here and work through in my brain is

486
00:29:22.920 --> 00:29:27.359
<v Speaker 1>that what what about the recent storm and influx of

487
00:29:27.480 --> 00:29:32.440
<v Speaker 1>water would actually cause this to happen for you and

488
00:29:32.599 --> 00:29:37.160
<v Speaker 1>your neighbors as well. I'm just one. I think it's

489
00:29:37.160 --> 00:29:40.039
<v Speaker 1>probably a good idea to follow through with the environmental

490
00:29:40.119 --> 00:29:42.519
<v Speaker 1>team just to have them take a look around and

491
00:29:42.599 --> 00:29:47.119
<v Speaker 1>see if a sewer line hasn't opened up somewhere underneath

492
00:29:47.240 --> 00:29:50.839
<v Speaker 1>the the you know the area, uh, and if that

493
00:29:50.960 --> 00:29:54.680
<v Speaker 1>isn't somehow contributing to you. Because here's the thing. If

494
00:29:54.720 --> 00:29:58.119
<v Speaker 1>there's going to be if there's sewer gases like underneath

495
00:29:58.160 --> 00:30:01.039
<v Speaker 1>your house, if you're going to get into the house,

496
00:30:01.079 --> 00:30:04.279
<v Speaker 1>they're more likely going to move through anything that is

497
00:30:04.319 --> 00:30:08.920
<v Speaker 1>a penetration in the floor of your home. And those

498
00:30:08.960 --> 00:30:12.519
<v Speaker 1>penetrations are most plentiful in the bathrooms, right because we

499
00:30:12.599 --> 00:30:14.880
<v Speaker 1>got drain lines coming up through there, as opposed to

500
00:30:14.920 --> 00:30:17.960
<v Speaker 1>bedrooms or anywhere else where the floor is just solid

501
00:30:18.000 --> 00:30:22.240
<v Speaker 1>and there are no perforations. So you may I would

502
00:30:22.319 --> 00:30:25.000
<v Speaker 1>definitely recommend that you continue to take a look at

503
00:30:25.079 --> 00:30:29.920
<v Speaker 1>the other causes. It may just fix itself. But if

504
00:30:29.960 --> 00:30:33.880
<v Speaker 1>it were for any reason one of the typical issues,

505
00:30:34.279 --> 00:30:36.960
<v Speaker 1>it sounds most likely that it may be a bacterial

506
00:30:37.039 --> 00:30:40.559
<v Speaker 1>thing in your drains, and that I would give it,

507
00:30:40.799 --> 00:30:43.839
<v Speaker 1>you know, two three four treatments, or you can go

508
00:30:43.880 --> 00:30:46.920
<v Speaker 1>down to the hardware store or the big box store

509
00:30:47.240 --> 00:30:51.559
<v Speaker 1>and actually get an anti bacterial drain cleaner to kind

510
00:30:51.599 --> 00:30:54.839
<v Speaker 1>of like nuke it, like a broad spectrum antibiotics sort

511
00:30:54.880 --> 00:31:00.440
<v Speaker 1>of for your drains to really kick it back. Try

512
00:31:00.480 --> 00:31:04.640
<v Speaker 1>that and you might actually end up seeing a resolution

513
00:31:04.799 --> 00:31:08.000
<v Speaker 1>to the issue. Sometimes just bacteria will grow on the

514
00:31:08.000 --> 00:31:11.000
<v Speaker 1>inside of our drain linings, and for whatever reason, given

515
00:31:11.039 --> 00:31:14.880
<v Speaker 1>a certain set of circumstances, it just starts to flourish,

516
00:31:15.039 --> 00:31:18.440
<v Speaker 1>regardless of how much hot water we run down the

517
00:31:18.480 --> 00:31:21.240
<v Speaker 1>drain or how clean we keep our bathrooms. Kelly, thank

518
00:31:21.279 --> 00:31:23.279
<v Speaker 1>you for your question, really good one. Do you are

519
00:31:23.359 --> 00:31:26.480
<v Speaker 1>Home with Dean Sharp, the House Whisperer on KFI.

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00:31:27.960 --> 00:31:31.279
<v Speaker 5>You're listening to Home with Dean Sharp on demand from

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00:31:31.359 --> 00:31:34.440
<v Speaker 5>KFI AM six forty
