What Up? What Up? What Up? Everybody? Welcome to another episode
of Let's Ask Paul, the podcast where you can ask me Paul Abernathy anything
you want about the National Electrical Code. And on today's episode, we have
a question that we're going to respond to, and of course then I'm going
to tell you about some upcoming things that are going to be taking place here
for the summer new course that's coming out, and then we'll maybe ended up
with another technical question. Again. Remember, all you gotta do is go
to Paul Abernathy dot com and submit your questions through that portal. All right,
So today's question. First question is it says I have a customer who
flips houses and has no concept of fixture install on certain exterior surfaces. He
purchased a very large exterior fixture that are not damp locations specifically, okay,
So I guess it's not listed for damp directions to indicate using silicon okay,
to be installed on some stone siding or veneers. The problem is they won't
sit flush because the stone is uneven. I don't think it's I don't think
it's panels. It's like different shaped stones, and I don't know how to
install it without scribing it out. Then probably the people who buy the house
are going to just tear it down and then they're stuck with a scribed large
pattern suggestions around what the code for exterior fixtures that have gaping holes two uneven
surfaces? Well, I need a gallon of silicon to make it damp location
rated. Thanks, okay, So ironically you're from Silicon Vallet go figure so
it Hey, that was my that's true statement. That's a true statement.
That's what it says. Okay. So first of all, it sounds like
you bought they bought a luminaiir that was not listed. Okay, So the
first thing it has to be listed for the environment to which it's going to
be installed. The first part of that, I guess is we always look
at four to ten, which is going to deal with luminaires. That's luminaires,
lampolders and luminaiirs, lampolders and lamps, and four ten dot six requires
that all luminaires and lampolders and retrofit kits shall be listed. So that's the
first thing, and then the next thing it course talks about the location four
ten dot ten a deals with wet and damp locations. It says luminaires installed
in damp or wet locations shall be installed such that water cannot enter or accumulate
in the wiring compartment, lamp holders, or other electrical parts. So that's
the first part of it. So, I mean, obviously it's got to
be listed for the environment wet or damp, and then once it's done,
it still doesn't preclude you from having to put something around it. Typically we
silicon or calk around it and leave the bottom open. Some moisture can get
out, but that's a little different. That's just saying that you have to
do it so that water cannot enter, right, So if you're putting it
up and there's big gaps around it, like you're stating, obviously water can
get in it. Now obviously if the luminaire is rated for that environment.
That's the first part. Second part, it's just telling you that, Okay,
even though it would be a wet or damp location, if you install
that lumina air, you just have to do it so it doesn't accumulate water
in the way compartment, which is going to be the space behind the luminair.
Itself, right, So that's the first step and you're on board with
that. You want to use silicone, but different reason, well, I
guess the same reason. It's uneven surfaced. So you got all these gaps
and all which, just be honest with you, it's going to look quite
nasty with all that silicone. But there you go, all right. So
then next it says all luminaire is installed in wet locations shall be marked as
suitable for wet locations. All luminaires installed in damp locations shall be marked as
suitable for wet locations or suitable for damp locations. Okay, so wet being
more restrictive than the damp. So obviously, if it's a wet rated located
fixture or you know, luminair, then you could put this in a damp
location or a wet location. If it's a damp location only then you can
only use it in a damp location. You couldn't use it in a wet
location. No amount of silicone or sealant is going to change the listing of
illuminaire. So if the luminaire is not rated for a damp or wet location,
yeah, loading it with silicone around the edges and whatever is not going
to change the listing of that lumina air. Right So, if somebody your
customer supplying the luminare and they bought it and it's not rated for the environment
to which it's going to be installed, the answer is not to just cake
silicon or calk around it. Right now, as far as that surface,
uh, you know, uh, there has been people that you know,
can come up with they you know, like a backer or something that goes
up. I know they have it, and you know when you're doing it.
For example, they have the these square you know, the flat surfaces
for when you're doing sighting and all that kind of stuff that the lumina air
will sit nice onto it. Obviously they don't have that for an uneven rough
surface for this stone. Like that sounds like it's you're dealing with stone.
So to be honest with you, I don't I don't have any recommendation that
I can give you for that. There are probably some guys out there who
have. I mean, I think in my mind as a guy that works
with you know that makes stuff, I'm thinking, okay, well you could
build a wooden treated frame, uh and then kind of draw it inscribe,
you know those little things they have that can give you the contour of the
rock. And I guess you could. You could actually jig jig saw it
out so that it sits flush and then you have this flush surface. But
you know, obviously you'd have to make all these sides. You would have
to you know, you with a jig or scroll saw or whatever, you're
gonna have to cut it out to the contour of the rock right in order
for it to sit decent. And even if it's not as decent, it's
little gaps. You could calk around that and it, you know, kind
of get some caulk that kind of blends in with the the rock color or
whatnot, and then you know that might that might work for you. Other
than that, I am I'm sorry, I don't I'm not aware. I'm
not as in touch today with the different things. For that, I'm sure
there's somebody out there listening. Feel free to post in the comments of a
recommendation for this gentleman and how you would so its issue is not so much
we answer the question about the luminair. So the luminair if it's not wet
or damp, located, then it's not going to go in this environment depending
on the rating of this environment. Again, go to article one hundred to
look at what's a damp and what's a dry and what's a wet location.
Okay, and it gives you a couple examples. But if it's subject to
beating rain saturation, then it's a wet location. If it's a damp location.
Either way, you can use a wet location lumina air or a damp
location lumina air, but you can't use a damp in a wet makes sense.
So an example of a damp might be under an open porch where it's
not going to be subject to driving rain, right, that type of thing.
But as far as the NEEC is concerned, it is considered a damp
location. So that's kind of, you know, one of the things that
they have to take in to account. So that's about the best I can
hear you and be able to give for you. So some examples of other
damp locations would be, as it says in the code, some basements maybe
considered damp. I don't necessarily always agree with that depends on the basement.
Obviously, roofed open porches and car ports typically referred to as damp just because
of what could happen in it. Now, some people could argue that it
is a dry location. Again, you're going to have to fight that argument.
That's not as black and white in the code. You have to read
the definitions of damp, dry, and wet, and then work with your
HJ. Again, as much as I always say, the HJ is not
the end to be all, you still have to work with them and maybe
they'll see you meet in the meeting of the minds and you can work it
out that type of thing. But that's kind of what I'm kind of steering
you too. As far as the esthetics of it and being able to put
it on the wall so it doesn't look all crooked and nasty. You're probably
gonna have to come up with some type of bass plate. And again whether
you can describe the contours or the brick around let's say a wood or whatever
or something or something like that. It's hollow in the back but has sides
on it so that you don't have to worry about it sitting on the rough
surface, but you do have to worry about the edges. Then there are
things that you can help you scribe the edges around it so that you kind
of get a contour, and then you could apply it to the sides and
then you could jig it out so that it kind of sits flush. I
guess you could do that. It's a little more work, and that's very
hard to describe in a podcast, but hopefully you get the idea, you'll
get creative, you'll come up with it. So so anyway, that's that.
I guess Another way you could do is you could put some ceiling putty
around the perimeter of let's say a think of a picture frame that's hollowing the
back and has sides on it, but it's we're talking about a block in
a piece of wood, and then you can put around the edges. You
could put some type of foam material, right that's going to give based on
the contours, and it kind of compresses, and so when you put that
up there, it'll push against and kind of compress around it where it needs
to be, and that kind of builds a cushion and that'll fill the voids.
So you could get some like weather stripping and put around the outside edges
or something like that, but you're basically building a backer that the luminair can
mount to that type of thing. So that's just my thoughts around trying to
fill those gaps. But as far as the LUMINAI obviously it's got to be
ready for the environment. Okay, all right, enough of that one.
Let's see what else we have. All right. The next question that we
have was submitted in Let's see here. It says, Hi Paul, longtime
snur and follower. Here, we met at a conference once and I attended
some of your courses. I have a question on the twenty twenty three New
Code section two thirty dot eighty five B three. So it's not new to
twenty twenty three, it was new to twenty twenty. It says, looking
for some clarification on suitable as and suitable only equipment. Okay, so I
guess the first thing we got to go is look at the code, and
it has been kind of restructured a little bit in the twenty twenty three edition
of the National Electrical Code. So it's now broken down into you know,
a obviously code section dot eighty five, and now it's broken into subdivisions.
There's an A, A B, A C and a D and an E
so it's kind of just expanding it, trying to make it a little easier
to apply. And you obviously we're talking about the emergency disconnect for one and
two family dwellings, and so if you have your code and you're in the
twenty twenty three because again I'm always going to use the latest edition of the
NEEC unless you state otherwise, and of course they did state twenty twenty three,
so hopefully you crack that open and it says for one in two family
dwellings and emergency disconnecting means shall be installed. So it's a shall be.
It's a mandatory statement, y'all know that from the code, So that you
are in a one and two family you are going to be putting in this
emergency disconnect right so again remember that only applies to one and two family dwelling
units. Right now, it's go down and it's not really talking about location,
it's really talking about the disconnecting means, and of course B three is
talking about other listed disconnecting switches or circubrators. So I guess it's important that
we kind of talk about the three disconnecting means options here that you can have
in order to be able to round this out and make it easier to understand.
So the first one, each disconnect shall be one of the following.
You can either be a service disconnect. So this is an example where to
say it's an overhead coming to a building, comes to the weatherhead, coming
down the riser, go into the meter and coming out of the meter,
and it hits a NIEM A three R panel. Let's say, so the
panel is an exterior mounted panel, it's the service and the main service breaker
is the actual service disconnect as well. So that's serving as the service disconnect
and it's also serving as the emergency disconnect, so it's it's doing double duty
and that is perfectly okay. Another way you could do this exactly the same
way as you could come out of that meter and you could hit a service
enclosure with a main breaker in it, say two hundred and ALP, and
then right next to it is your panel, right and it could be a
main lug only, but it's right next to the service disconnect. Okay.
So the next one we'll be looking at is the what's called the it's B
two and it's the meter disconnect. Now it's integral to the meter mounting equipment,
and it has to be not marked as suitable only for use as service
equipment installed in accordance with TO eighty two. Okay, so this is two
thirty eighty two talks about what can be on the supply side of an actual
service disconnect. So obviously it's very clear that this option is not a service
disconnect, and there are labeling requirements that you have to follow as well down
an E of this specific section. So just be aware this is not a
service it's a meter disconnect, but it can serve as the emergency disconnect,
so important. The only other caveat, and it kind of ties into what
we're talking about here, is that you noticed it it says that it's not
marked as suitable only for users service equipment. Why because it's being used in
an application that is not service equipment. Okay, So other than the dynamics
of the language, it's telling you, look, you're actually using this in
an application that is on the supply side of the service disconnect. So you
have to make sure that this enclosure, this equipment has been evaluated for use
other than just for service applications, because that's what it's being used for.
So it could be other testing, other dynamics that are involved by the listing,
things like that that are covered by the manufacturers, so they are making
sure. So now that doesn't mean that it could have some way of actually
being used as service equipment, depending on whether there's a main bonding jumper installed
or what have you. But here it just can't be marked as suitable only
for use as service equipment because in our case with this meter discann it's not
being used as such. Of course, there's labeling requirements that have to be
applied to also, so don't forget that. And it's more notably telling everybody
that is not service equipment. And then the one that's being asked is B
three. Now B three is talking about other listed disconnect switches or circuit breakers.
So obviously you know that they make enclosures with a knife switch, which
is purely just a disconnect. They make enclosures that have a breaker in them
that may or may not have an overcurrent rating on it. It may be
simply just a just a disconnect and that's all it's being used for that type
of thing. And so that is an option for you to do either one
of those, And it says to be able to use these listed disconnecting means.
Whether it's a switch or circuit breaker, it says that it's marked suitable
that is marked suitable for use as service equipment, so you could use it
as service equipment, has the capability, it has the evaluation, it's been
tested to be used as service equipment, but you're not using it as a
service equipment. So it says, but it's not marked as suitable only for
use as service equipment installed on the supply side of each service disconnect. So
the significance here is that it's been through additional evaluations. Let's say to say,
you know what, it's not only for use in the service application,
and you're obviously using it in an application that is not a service so you're
still using it. You're interacting with service conductors and all this kind of stuff,
but it is not service equipment. But you know only, so it
may be suitable for use a service equipment, but it is not only for
use in service equipment. Now what's the difference really? So you know,
if you think about it, when a disconnecting switch or circuit breaker is marked
as suitable only for use with service equipment, it really means that advice is
specifically designed and certified to a particular role in the electrical system right, typically
related to service entrance and main disconnecting means. So, what are some of
the reasons for that. You may have something that's said suitable only for use
with service equipment. Why would you have that, Well, it could be
the certification of the equipment, the design and equipment. The device has been
engineered and tested to meet specific stringent requirements that apply specifically only to service equipment,
and that piece of equipment has been evaluated for such. So that could
be where something is specifically said that it's only for use for service equipment,
then it's intended purpose is for service equipment only. Typically that's probably going to
have you know, a main bonding jumper in it, and it's designed as
such, and it's configured and such to make that convenient. But that's how
it's been evaluated. Okay, So if there's an application that says that you
have a piece of equipment that says it's suitable only for use of service equipment,
then then it may not have been evaluated for other usages. And for
example, in our case on the supply side, where the available fault currents
can be extremely high because it's on the supply side and the only really protectional
THEPT stream is overload protection. So there could be different evaluations that take place.
And I am not a a manufacturer expert when it comes to service equipment
and enclosures and things like that. There's other individuals that would be better to
answer that. I'm a code guy. So when I see this and it
says suitable for use as service equipment, I'm like, Okay, I could
use it as service equipment in that application if I want it, which typically
is going to have a service disconnect there. Right, you're going to have
that short circuit ground fault and overload protection on the load side of the service
disconnect. You're going to have that overload protection on the supply side of that
disconnect. I get it. That equipment has been evaluated. And then there's
this equipment that I know that's going to be used other than service, even
though it could be it has the capability to basically have a main bonding jumper
or make the proper ground to grounded conductor connection. I get it. But
I'm on the supply side, So there's other evaluations that the manufacturers may take
into consideration for that application, and so important to just not dig too deep
into the weeds and look at it and say, well, there might be
design criteria. There might be for example, service equipment or often have different
characteristics that maybe handle higher fault currents, a certain type of connection requirements,
things like that. There might be other enhanced safety features, maybe some insulating
component that is more relevant to something that is suitable only for use of service
equipment, and some that are not right. So again I'm not going to
get into the details. I am not an expert at that. Sorry,
but that's I'm just telling you. Code and code says that if it says
suitable only for use of service equipment, that's the only use it can have.
Keep it simple. If it says that it has to be marked suitable
for use, that's fine. That doesn't mean that's the only use that it
can be used as. But if something does say suitable only for use,
that that's it. So that could not be used on the supply side,
That equipment could not be adapted to be used on the supply side. However,
something was suitable for use of service equipment but not stating that it's only
for use. Then they have an application on the supply side of the service
disconnect. And we're seeing a lot of applications today where things are getting installed
on the supply side, with the energy management systems, the storage systems,
the pvs, and there's a lot of stuff that's going to be potentially on
the supply side. So you have all those things in two thirty eighty two
that's allowed to be on the supply side. But again, pay close attention
to the markings and that's the best answer I can give you on that.
Don't dig too deep into the weeds. And I am not Professor Proton,
and I can't go I don't do the research from the manufacturers on the difference.
I'm sure you can google it or contact somebody from Eating Cutler Hammer.
They probably give you much more detailed I'm not that guy. I just tell
you what the code says and what you can't do. So hopefully I've made
that part of it clear. All right, let's move on to another one,
but another Lumina air question that Darlene has sent me. I says,
Hello, Paul, I hope all as well. Is someone electric contractor or
homeowner allowed to build a luminair using wiring methods from the NEC. I feel
this is not acceptable as we would not comply with four to ten dot six.
Thanks for the information, okay, I agree with that one hundred percent.
There are a lot of people that manufacture things I guess on their own
and they put them up all the time. It's their home. I guess
they could do whatever they want to do. But at the end of the
day, the listing requirement that it's on manufacturer that produces illuminair. It says
all LUMINAIIR lampholders and retro kits shall be listed. Again, not being able
to control what harry homeowner does and whether or not they get inspections or not
or whatever they do that type of thing. But you know, to be
honest with you, using all you know, using all different parts and kind
of Frankensteining it together to make a lumina air. I see them all the
time in flea markets and and things like that that they don't have a listing.
There's a difference between something like somebody making a lamp that simply has an
attachment plug and it plugs in. That's that that is a lamp type of
scenario. Versus a luminair that, uh, you're going to actually install on
the building wiring system permanently, that type of thing. Uh. So now
there are other people. I just I went to a house that's in in
Oklahoma that has a luminair that is so grand. It's about ten feet u
It is really amazing. It was amazing to see. I can only imagine
how much it weighed. So that was built in a factory built it and
then you know, it was made of different components, individual components, but
ultimately they got a third party listing on it, so it was listed,
but it was made of different you wiring method components, and it was quite
grand, and it had this really neat facade on it that you really couldn't
tell what was beneath it, which was pretty you know, just wiring methods,
I mean, pretty obvious, but you couldn't see the inner parts the
neat facade on the outside. So that was built, but that was done
by a manufacturing company that obviously used listed components and then had it third party
listed. I think that all lumin airs that you're going to install on some
in somebody's dwelling to me have to meet the four to ten dot six,
and they would have to be listed. And if I was the inspector,
and obviously it sounds like you are, and you're going and do in an
inspection and somebody's making a luminair that's going to be permanent. If I don't
see any listing or any mark on it, then I'm probably not going to
accept it. Now, again, what they do after I leave is up
to them. If they put up, you know, a lampholder or whatever,
and it's in an area where it's okay, then I'm gonna pass it,
and then I'm gonna move on. I'm not gonna I'm not gonna lose
sleep on what people do while I'm when I'm not there, even though you
know it's the honor system when it comes to that. But at the end
of the day, I would agree that luminaires need to be listed. And
you couldn't just hodgepodge something together and throwing up on the permanent building wire.
There's a chance it won't have the right amount of insulation, if that has
any for the heat between the box and the canopy, or if there is
one. There's reasons we have listings in evaluations. So now somebody making a
lamp that plugs into an attachment plug or has an attachment plug that plugs into
a receptacle. You know, I I ANYC doesn't really govern that type of
thing. So we're talking about things that get wired directly to the building wiring
system. Okay, there is that element of protection when you plug, you
know, when you're plugging something in like a lamp into a receptacle, and
of course you have the overcurrent protected device. Now you still have the overcurrent
protection if you're hardwiring it. But again, there's so much element between the
actual hardwiring and the wiring that's been used for this Frankenstein developed luminair that you
know, whether there's no insulation separation for heat and there's no safety protocols in
place, then I would probably steer away from that. And yes, as
an inspector, I would I would reject that and make them show some type
of listing. Right, that's just my opinion. You can agree to disagree.
But I'm also ultra safety conservative and I don't want anybody creating their own
luminaires, especially when four to ten dot six says that they have to be
listed. Then I'm going to say for me and for you you as an
inspector. The easiest thing is require the listing and move on. All right,
so let's see here another question. This should be a quick one.
This question says, hey, big fan out of southern California, wondering if
you offer a programs so I can get certified JW for California. Thank you,
keep up the good work and don't listen to the haters. Thank you.
You know we don't make this is This is a common misconception and it's
our fault. It's my fault. I've done this for years. When we
say something in the exam prep it seems like and I get it. We
put it out there as exam prep, so you know, obviously we're targeting
the exam prep and people learning the NEEC to take an exam. But our
fast Tracks program is not just for exam prep. And it sounds like you're
in an exam prep mood. But none of our courses offer certification. We're
not into that. Ours are voluntary and it's to teach you the NEC to
be a one a better electrician, but two, if you're passing, go
for an exam. Our course will help you prepare. But we have an
awful lot of students that are in our fast Tracks programs that are just there
to enhance their knowledge of the code, and that's it. So I would
say any of our fast tracks programs would help you. California happens to be
testing now on the twenty twenty edition of the NEEC as of today in June
of twenty twenty four, So I mean I would steer towards the twenty twenty
fast Tracks Enhanced is your best option because you also get access to videos and
so at the end of the day, it gives you more for your value,
more bang for your buck, and it doesn't expire, so you can
log in as often as you want whenever you want twenty four to seven and
learn, learn and learn, and we will teach you what you need to
know about the National Electrical Code. But that's all we do. We don't
do anything else. I don't do fire alarm, I don't do osha,
I don't do any of that business law. Even though we have some partners
on our website that do. You can get them through our website. I
don't deal with that. I'm just an NEC guy. That's it, okay,
So go check out our website, but I appreciate you following and listen
to all of our podcasts. Okay, the next question we have that was
submitted, says HJ, job plans or the code. If an installation was
not per drawing but done per the NEC requirements, can an HJ ask to
follow specifications and the drawings. Okay, great question. Now, as a
former engineer too for the city of Richmond, Virginia most of you know that,
and as the code supervisor for the City of Alexandria, Virginia, and
dealing with inspections for many years in the intricacies of submission and plan review and
approvals and working with engineers, and so you have to remember, so,
assuming a project is something that's going to be engineer designed, the engineer spends
the time to design this system. You hope that in that design they're looking
at all of the things that are important, conductor sizing, overcurrent protection,
all the big stuff, leaving the little stuff like receptacle placement and whatnot to
the actual installer unless it's like an apartment complex where it's very specific on where
they want these devices, and I get it. Other than that, that's
the NEEC. So that's the one big difference. So if they designed something,
but then the drawing allows you to freedom as electrician to space things out
based on the NEEC, then you should be okay, you follow the UNEC.
It sounds like in this case, the engineer designed it and said what
they wanted done. They put receptacles, they put things where they wanted it,
and maybe they over engineered the grounding electrode system for some reason, you
know, multiple electrodes, and did everything wild that they didn't need to do.
And maybe the electrician said, I don't need to do that crap.
I'm just putting two ground rods in and we're gonna let her fly. That's
an example, but the engineer said otherwise. So here's where you get into
the issue with the inspector. The inspector is there to ensure that if there
are drawings and they've been approved and assumed they went through some type of plan
review to get approved, and if not, the engineers still stamping them based
on their state license and approval. So the inspector comes out there to look
at it. They need to make sure not only that is code compliant,
but the inspector also has to look and make sure that it's being done in
accordance with the approved drawings. So there are occasions where the code is a
minimum standard. But the engineer, when they work with the owner of the
building or whoever owns it, and they come up with a price and they
agree to a design, then they may go above and beyond code, which
they're able to do. But the electrician says, this is a minimum,
this is all I'm going to do. Who's at fault here, Well,
the electrician would be at fault because the engineer designed it a specific way.
That's who's in charge of the design. Ultimately, if something goes wrong with
the design, they're the ones that are going to be held accountable. The
inspector is just there to make sure one that it's code compliant at a minimum,
and two that if they go above the code, they're not making it
a hazard because going above sometimes when it comes to grinding and bonding, you
can go too far and it creates a hazard. Again, Okay, so
that's all the inspector's looking for. So in your case, if they found
something that the electrician did as a minimum, but the engineer wanted something beyond
that, then the inspector has every right to reject that, and everybody says,
well, wait a minute. The code is what's adopted to the state.
It's inn a minimum. Yeah, but this is an engineer design.
This is done by engineering professionals. So we're going to assume, and I
hate to do that, we're going to assume that this installation was designed.
And so the inspector is there to not only look at the blueprints the drawings
to make sure that it was done properly and are looking for the safety aspect
of it. So it's meeting the minimum safety standards, so the engineer may
be going above and beyond. You also have to remember that if there is
a plan review. In most states have some type of plan review. If
there's drawings are required that they're submitted and they look at it and they approve
it. That's how they're expecting the project. That's how the municipal is expecting
the project to be installed. Now, if there's something that the electrician wants
to do different than what's on the drawings, and they just need to communicate
together, they need to contact the engineer and say hey, look, we
want to deviate, and the engineer can give you permission to do that,
and you can get it in writing and then you can present that to the
inspector as a deviation from something that may be on the original drawings. But
you got to work together. You're going to have to have some communication.
When I was in the city of Richmond, more importantly, that one's the
one where I had to put my hands in everything, whether it's designed,
whether it's helping the engineers, whether it was doing inspections, or whether it
was the whole gamut. I was on the phone all the time with engineers,
designers, inspectors, contractors. You kind of kind of played liaison between
all of them. And at the end of the day, the designers,
the designer, and the electrician needs to follow the design. Okay. So
that's my opinion on that. You can disagree. But again, at the
end of the day, what would it be like for me as an owner
if I paid an engineer to design it. They're the professional, they have
the certifications, they had the professional credential, they designed it for me.
You're just the electrician that follows the design. Okay. And I use a
great analogy if the Titanic, even though it did sink, by the way,
but if the engineers designed it one way, but the workers decided to
do it differently because they felt that it didn't need to be that engineered,
and then it sunk because of that, they're going to be held responsible.
Okay, but in that case it was a damn iceberg. But you get
my point. So you're the electrician, install it per the drawings, and
if there's something that conflicts that you think could be done differently, maybe the
engineer didn't see it that way. Pick up the phone and give them a
call if you want to do something there, but just don't go rogue.
And if the inspector catches it, I'm certainly they're going to reject it.
Okay, that's my opinion on it. You can agree to disagree, but
that's what I'm going to give you my opinion on it. Okay. Hopefully
that helps all right, folks, That's all we've got for the day is
let's ask Paul. Hopefully you get something out of this. Kind of covered
a bunch of topics today. I will remind everybody that if you're listening to
this, this is June. We do have a free webinar that is coming
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oh, don't think bo