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Many of you follow my husband David
Ransom and I as we travel throughout

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Sicily and Italy and Europe, and
we love Sicily and this show is dedicated

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to Sicily because we can't get enough
of it, and apparently America cannot get

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enough of Sicily either, because there
have been numerous shows about Sicily, White

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Lotus being the most recent that have
attracted people to Sicily. But there is

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a lot of Sicily to discover and
a lot of people just head straight to

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the coast. Well, my guest
today is going to show you not only

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how beautiful Sicily is coast to coast, but where she lives is in the

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center the heart of Sicily and truly
one of the most beautiful and pure areas

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I have visited. The winery is
called Fayuta Montoni, and Melissa Mueller is

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the co proprietor with her husband Fabio
Sarecchi. She is not only a co

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proprietor, but she had formerly owned
a couple of restaurants dedicated to Sicilian food

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in New York and the author of
a terrific book on Sicily called Sicily Recipes

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Rooted in Tradition. Having come to
know Melissa and having visited they to Montoni

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myself, we can share with you
the fact that she is probably one of

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the most knowledgeable people on Sicilian food
and culture today. And you are going

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to love this show because we're going
to dive into and take you by the

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hand through the airwaves to Sicily so
you can experience it and think about what

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you can do to enjoy Sicily in
your home, but also plan a visit.

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Melissa. Welcome. Thank you,
Melanie. It's such an honored to

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be on your show, and also
I'm very touched and fluttered by your lovely

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introduction. Well, you have an
amazing background, so we always like to

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start with that you grew up in
America, but you have Sicilian heritage,

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So talk about your childhood and your
heritage and how you ended up finding that

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powerful reconnection back to your roots.
Well, I must say that my whole

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life has revolved around Sicily, either
from living here now for the past ten

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years, or just when I was
away or what I call in exile from

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Sicily and growing up in the New
York, New Jersey area, where I

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basically dedicated everything in my life to
the island of Sicily. From a very

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young age, I grew up coming
every summer to my grandmother's village, which

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is in the province of Agrigento on
the southern coast of Sicily, a small

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village called Santana, small in the
sense that there's about four hundred inhabitants.

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It's a direct contrast to Manhattan,
where I grew up. Basically, the

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love of Sicily that I have comes
from that young age, and as a

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child, I wanted to recreate in
our home the perfumes and the smells and

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the sensations that I felt around Sicily. So I started cooking at a very

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young age, and my love of
ingredients and recipes starts at that time.

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But then as I grew up,
I realized that I wanted to focus more

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on the culture and the food culture
of Sicily, not just on ingredients and

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on cooking, but basically, what
I felt was that food and Sicilian food

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was a means for me to understand
the culture and the history of these people

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that I felt so connected with.
So I started studying anthropology with a focus

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on Mediterranean food culture. And I
say Mediterranean because I felt to understand Sicily,

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I needed to look at it in
its broad context. So I studied

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all the various regions and history and
culture of surrounding Sicily, not only Sicily

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itself. The love of Sicily only
kept growing. So when I finished my

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undergrad degree, before I moved on
to my postgraduate degree, my goal was

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to somehow find a way to represent
Sicily. I started writing, I started

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looking at different ways to do so. But September eleventh happened and I was

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two, and so many restaurants,
as we all know in Manhattan, couldn't

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make it at that time, and
there was a very small restaurant on Bleaker

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Street, Bleaker and McDougall in the
village that was for sale, and I

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came home to my father. My
father was a lawyer. His dream for

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me was to after my undergrad degree, to obviously get my law degree and

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work with him. I'm an only
child, and that was his vision in

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his dream. But I knew that, and I felt inside me that that

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wasn't my calling and I wanted to
focus on representing Sicily. I still didn't

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exactly know how, but when September
eleventh happened and the possibility to open a

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restaurant, it seemed like a joke
almost in my home, but I announced

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that I'm going to open a restaurant
on Bleaker Street, and that's how I

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got involved in the restaurant business.
With this opportunity to open very small restaurant

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where I cooked dishes that I had
grown up with, it was like a

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laboratory for me, a place that
I could experiment every thing I had studied

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and show people that Sicily and Sicilian
food is not spaghetti and meatballs, is

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not a scene from the Godfather film. It's with no disrespect to a film

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that's artistically beautiful and well made,
but that's not what Sicily is. So

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I felt that that was my calling
to change that stereotype, and in my

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small part, I think I contributed
to that. After the first restaurant,

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the least had finished there and I
decided to start my post graduate studies.

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At the same time, though,
I was so driven to still be in

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the restaurant business because I loved so
much this idea of representing Sicily, and

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also I enjoyed the interaction with fellow
New Yorkers and creating relationships with people in

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the neighborhood and sharing the dishes with
them and my stories about Sicily. For

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me, everything is about telling the
stories and explaining the sensations and the emotions

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of Sicily. So time will take
Viously, I opened up a second restaurant,

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Aolo, which was in Chelsea on
the seventh Avenue in twenty first Street,

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and then after that a third restaurant
called Pastai on ninth Avenue. What

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was the name of the first restaurant, Melissa. The first restaurant was called

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Ostidia that Gallonado. There was a
whole story behind the black Rooster, which

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technically is associated with Tuscany, but
it was a story that led back to

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my childhood in Sicily, and I
cooked the dishes that I had grown up

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with basically, but it wasn't enough
because I knew that in order to represent

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Sicily, I needed to keep studying, keep researching, and really turned back

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to the academic world and also a
world where I could represent a background and

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the ammunition to be able to represent
Sicily in terms of writing in a way

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that was more writing for a public
audience. So that's where I studied at

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the Columbia University Journalism School. You
know, I of the fact that you

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have approached your life and your life
calling through family, heritage, cultural anthropology

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and writing all connected through food.
You know, it's interesting your life could

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be a movie. There are a
lot of movies that have been filmed in

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Sicily, and what you said that
kind of was interesting to me is growing

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up the image of Sicily was not
always positive. You know, The Godfather

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wonderful movie, but you know it's
about the mafia, and you know,

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Sicily was portrayed is poor, corrupt, beautiful, but there were problems and

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unfortunately it also translated to other aspects
of business there. Obviously, the mafia,

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as I learned because we went to
the No Mafia Museum in Palermo,

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did have a ironclad control over Sicily. Until finally it was driven out.

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It's sadly somewhere else, but and
a lot of it. I also learned

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they have these wineries that were we
captured and reclassified that were formerly owned by

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the money. Was a huge amount
of change that happened Sicily during this time,

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and during your research also underwent a
bit of a revolution in terms of

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coming to Reckoning with itself as a
place to visit and its industry in the

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wine industry for sure, in the
tourism and others. A lot of things

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changed to help change that image.
And thankfully more and positive things are being

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shown and written about Sicily, and
the movies are great, and everybody's saying

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Indiana Jones. And as you did
your regent, what did you learn that

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changed about Sicily? What stay the
same, but also what changed for the

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good? Well, I remember we
could just go back a little bit too.

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When I had the second restaurant,
I opened up the restaurants saying it's

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a Sicilian restaurant with classic Sicilian dishes
and the wine list that was only exclusively

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Sicilian. And now we're talking about
twenty twenty eleven, and at the time

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I would say about half of the
people that came would get up from the

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table, go to the near by
liquor store and purchase a bottle of Chianti

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or Brunello or a wine that was
non Sicilian and come back to pay the

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corkage fee because they were so uninterested, you know what I mean. It

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was amazing, and I was very
discouraged initially because I said, I want

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to only represent Sicily and here people
don't even want to try the Sicilian wines.

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Then after the first few years,
there was this major shift because all

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of a sudden, Sicilian wines became
the wines to try. The media was

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full of talking about Sicilian wines,
especially with giving a focus to Etna,

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and all of a sudden things changed
and people would come and search out the

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restaurant just because I had the Sicilian
wine list. And I found that very

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interesting because it really is something that
reflects also the tourism of today. It's

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the recreating of what Sicily is.
And like you said, there's the show

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that the White Lotus that's contributed to
a lot of tourism. It's the way

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that it's now being represented, and
it's completely different than what I had studied

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and what I had put together from
the past decade of what of how Sicily

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was represented. So I think that
today there's such a major fluctuation of tourism

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to the islands and everyone wanting to
come here. However, it's the coastal

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areas that get the tourism. Where
we live is in the center of the

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island, where our farm is,
where in the mountains of the center of

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Sicily, and it's absolutely an area
where tourists don't come, but you do

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see people come that want to explore, that want to really get to know

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what the old Sicily was and is
today. Well, I've actually spent more

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time in the center of Sicily than
in the coast because I'm blessed to go

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on wine trips that have taken me
there. You met your husband, you

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were buying his wine, right.
What happened was I was researching for my

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book and I wanted to visit wineries
in different areas. For example, I

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didn't know that Sicily has nine provinces. I knew my area of Sicily.

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I had, of course done so
much research, but I really needed to

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get to know firsthand all the different
areas in order to be able to represent

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it in a book form. Because
it's Ali said to me, can you

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write an encyclopedia about a Sicilian cuisine, to which I answered no, because

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encyclopedia would take a hundred volumes and
multiple lifetimes. But I can write a

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good summary of of what it is. But in order to do that,

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I realized that I needed to really
travel, and with the restaurants, it

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wasn't easy, but every two months
I would leave and come to Sicily for

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ten days and do very intense research
trips. So if I would go to

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an area that I didn't know where
the best honeymaker was or where the cheese

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was made, I would stop first
at the different wineries. So I visited

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so many wineries, of which I
had the wines at my restaurant with failed

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in Montoni. I was introduced to
the wines. The first time I tried

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Ruga and Nero Davola was through master
of wine Bill Nesto and his wife Francis

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di Savino, who wrote the World
of Sicilian Wine, And as they were

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releasing the book, they came to
eat at my restaurant and brought me a

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bottle, and they were enjoying a
bottle of the wine at their table and

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had me taste it with them,
and I remember feeling that it was so

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different, this freshness. It didn't
feel like a Sicilian wine. So I

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was very struck by it, and
I had to come to Montoni. I

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knew that sooner or later that was
part of my agenda for my research for

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the book. And my husband,
of course at the time, wasn't my

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husband. He kept saying no,
because when the importer at the time would

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say there's someone writing a book,
he would say, well, I don't

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you know, I really don't have
time because he's very hands on on the

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farm, on the vineyards. And
for about two years that meeting never happened,

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and I didn't know he was saying
no. I didn't even though he

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was didn't know he was here.
I just knew it was failed to Montoni

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that I was visiting. And that
day, of course changed my life because

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my first moment of meeting him was
also my first moment of meeting failed to

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Montoni and meeting the land of failed
to Montoni, where I felt that I

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just couldn't leave and I fell in
love with him, which took time of

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the two of us getting to know
each other. It was love at first

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sight, but it was getting to
know each other over a long period of

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time, especially from a distance,
but Montoni was That feeling of seeing Montoni

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could never never leave my heart.
And I remember one day he said to

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me, after about a year and
a half of us knowing each other through

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telephone calls and through multiple visits for
the book, he said to me,

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if you really want to visit for
the harvest? Because I expressed a desire

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to come to visit for the harvest, He said, the only way to

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understand what that even means is to
spend three hundred and sixty five days a

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year and to live every day on
the farm and to understand the culmination which

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is this harvest. And of course
it was a love proposal on his end,

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but it was so true because every
day counts into what goes into the

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great harvest, the wines being made, and to this sale of the wines

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that we craft here. So I'm
glad I took him up on his offer.

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And how long ago was that,
Melissa, It was about a decade

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ago, nearly close to a decade
ago at this point now, and Vintoni

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one of the most ancient wineries in
Sicily. You're talking about quite old,

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dating to fourteen sixty nine. So
we're in it. And the property is

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an estate, a beautiful estate that
you've lovingly kept renovating. It's an ongoing

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love of renovation. As we saw
way there. How did Fabio's family they

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come to own Fyoda Montani, Well, Mike, you said, the wideries

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founded in fourteen sixty nine, and
it was founded by a noble family of

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at the time in Sicily was under
Aragonese rule. It passed hands many times,

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always within the aristocratic realm, and
the owner prior to Fabio's grandfather was

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a baron who was the Cardinal of
Catania. He also owns lands on Edna

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and around this in around Syracuse,
Syracusa, Syracuse, and he sold the

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property to my husband's grandfather in the
late eighteen hundreds. Basically at the time,

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this was right after unification of Italy, and there was a major decadence

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and fall of the aristocratic class and
the rise of the bourgeois class, of

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the working class of of of Sicily. So it was possible at that time

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for and what happened often was large
fail those which are failed. Me is

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comes from the word feudalism, so
basically of the basically where large expanses of

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land where we're under control, under
the control of one owner, he became

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he became the owner of the land
and basically that he passed that into the

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hands of my father in law.
And then now the third generation is Scabule

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and this is a The wines are
extraordinary, and I'm going to underscore that

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you do not tasted a lot of
Sicilian wines, and universally everybody goes wow

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because there is such a sense of
place. And when you're sipping the wines

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of Fyoto Montoni, you're sipping a
sense of place. But that also goes

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to everything there. Because we had
punch with you as the food was this

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amazing Sicilian lunch, I'm still thinking
about it because I'm craving the foods of

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Sicily right now and wines, which
once I said before we started going on

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air, we're kind of in a
food desert here when it comes to certain

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types of food where we're living temporarily
right now. What percentage of your working

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farm is dedicated to your vineyards,
but also what else do you cultivate?

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Because you are a full working farm
and it is all hands on, it's

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all very hands on here on the
farm. A third of the land is

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dedicated to the vineyard, so you
can imagine it like the vineyard in the

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center, and then it's surrounded by
a ring that is grain fields that we

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rotate with legum, fields like lentils
and like chickpeas. All the grains we

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only grow heritage grains. I should
also say that we're very rigorously an organic

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farm, so that is very influential
on our decisions of what we grow,

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how we and how we grow them. So hence the heritage grange, which

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would do very well in organic.
We also cultivate tomatoes and with the grain

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we make pasta. We also have
olive groves. So I could go on

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and on. There's many different realities
here on the farm, but yet everything

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is run by Fabio and I with
a lot of love and a lot of

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time and all of our all of
our energy put into it. How do

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you debate up your responsibilities because you're
also you also are parents to two young

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children. Yes, we're parents to
Elio and Francesco, who are three years

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old and one year old respectively.
Through not even three Elio and they just

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thrive on the farm. You can
imagine we have a beach home and we

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could be at the beach every day
day. And of course Fabio and I

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want to be Fabio and I want
to be on the farm and we want

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to check the Viindia to day and
check the fields and be a part of

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it actively. And we don't want
to we don't want to manage it from

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afar. That's not what we what
we intend to do. But you could

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see even in Elio, who is
so young, but he loves it.

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He doesn't care about being at the
beach. He wants to be in the

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land and on the farm and with
his little hole in the vineyard. Or

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today he helped us, be helped
in what he could do, but he

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helped us with loading a container of
wine that was leaving for New York.

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And it's just beautiful to see his
being so active and excited about being part

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of the farm. Well, I
want to touch on the wine and the

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food. I'm going to start with
the wine because I actually your wines are

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widely available in the United States and
we taste it through many and you have

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I mean, what's interesting is there
are vines that are pre philox era.

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I mean, you know, very
old vine vines. For someone who listeners

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who may be somewhat familiar with Sicilia
wines, let's talk about a few of

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the wines. Most because Wilson Daniels
is your importer and I'm on the site,

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are available here. But let's talk
about some given your location in Sicily,

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what some of the wines are that
set you feel set Fioda Montoni apart.

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Obviously, I referenced the prefiloxera vine, the Kara bukara, which is

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one sure, sure, sure,
the prefiloxa are vines are. It's very

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interesting because these are vines that were
on the property when when Fabio's grandfather purchased

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00:21:45.720 --> 00:21:49.359
the land in the end of the
eighteen hundreds, So they are very old

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vines that still produce and actually produce
a fair amount of grapes. They're nettle

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dabola grapes, and we have some
pre filoxor vines. Of all of the

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different types of grapes that we grow
on the property, the only one that

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we have an abundance of, or
to two hectares of that we can bottle

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is the needle doabola. But there's
also catato and in zeolia and petty corne

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and Nedelo mascalais interestingly enough, Yeah, the Nedelo mascalaise, because of course

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it's it's associated with Etna. But
those vines were brought here when the Cardinal

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of Catania who owns the lands,
the prior owner, when he owned the

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lands on Etna, he had an
agronomist who worked for him, and the

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agronomist father was also a priest,
father Nellia, which interest interestingly means fog

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in Italian. He would go back
and forth with vines from here, which

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the needle dobla is known as calabreze, and he would bring those calabreze vines

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to the Etna and the Sidacus area, and he brought Neda lo mascalze here.

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Interesting, and today we produced wines
that are from vines that were grafted

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off the prefiloxeta, the prefiloxead Lomascalze
and vines. It's very unusual and it

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has a different expression here than it
doesn't Na. But it has maybe a

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little less austere, a little more
floral notes. You can feel it's Neda

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lomascaleze, and you can see in
the color and in the and in the

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the body and the style of the
wine but it's but definitely has some notes

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that that distinguish it from being a
ned lomascalz from Edna. And we we

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finally started bottling that wine because my
husband was a little bit he wasn't so

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sure about doing so. He didn't
want to be in competition with with Edna.

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But it was the wine that his
father always be nified and loved to

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drink. He said, my father
in law would say, I love it

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because it's a wine that doesn't stain
the glass. And now fifty years later,

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we're making that wine that doesn't stain
the glass. And we called it

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Terra di Elio, which means the
Lands of Elio, which was my father

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in law's name, but it's also
our first son's name. And the first

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vintage we've we've unified that we commercialize, I should say, because every year

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we always made a little of it, but the first vintage that we made

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enough of to bottle and commercialize was
the twenty twenty when Elio was born.

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Well, I remember sitting outside we
started our day just to paint a picture,

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or sitting out on your patio till
it started to rain, and I

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remember having the the di Nerello masculizi
rose diadel Sicilian. We had that beautiful

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rose and we tasted some whites before
we went inside, and you're it is

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like a farmhouse inside, and you
prepared this incredible meal. And when we

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were there, it was I think
may so spring and spring season. Yes,

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for those who are, you know, less familiar with some of the

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and as you said, a long
time ago, no one seemed to know

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the foods of Sicily. We are
now talking and it's early. It's August

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September area, and harvest is starting, and eggplant season is upon us and

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tomatoes are being made into pulp.
What are some dishes, foods and dishes

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that you feel are essential to Sicily
that everyone should think about whether they're visiting

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or are featured in your book,
because the book really takes you through Sicily,

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but from where you are, well, I think that in terms of

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what is traditional, it's it's a
complicated question because when we look at the

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island, there's so many different realities. We're here in the center, we're

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in a mountainous air where where nearly
eight hundred meters above sea level, and

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everything that I grow here in my
vegetable garden and everything just comes out so

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so fresh and so flavorful because we
have these we do have the hot Sicilian

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sun, but we also have the
nights that are very cool, so it's

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very ideal for growing all year round
for the for the vegetable garden. And

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what I what I feel is that
in other areas it's different. For example,

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in the southeastern coast, I look
more at the tomatoes and things that

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are more intensely, very concentrated in
flavor. In this area, I like

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the the things that are more green, for example. Also the wild vegetables

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and the wild herbs are very interesting, which grows all throughout Sicily, but

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here in this in this mountainous area, it's quite abundant. So my cuisine

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very much reflects this center area of
Sicily, not only in terms of the

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vegetables and the produce that's available,
but this is an area that's very rich

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with and full of full of animals
for cheesemaking, because it's where one of

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the only vineyards, the only the
closest vineyard is Regaliali, which is about

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twenty eight to thirty kilometers distance from
us, but in this area it's mainly

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grain field. This was the classic
grainary of the Roman Empire, the center

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of Sicily, and so we're full
of sheep and goats and also cows,

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and the cheesemaking is just amazing.
So when I look at ingredients to cope

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with, I have this fresh produce, like you said, eggplants right now,

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or the the Sicilian zucchini, the
long zucchini squash, the leaves of

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the zucchini plant called tenetumi. Basically
whatever is fresh and growing. But also

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I like to use the elements,
the traditional elements from the the animals of

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the of the territory produce and the
recipes I've now pretty much followed very much

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00:28:15.599 --> 00:28:21.839
old recipes that are dying out and
recipes that are hard, too hard to

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00:28:21.920 --> 00:28:26.480
even replicate anymore. And those are
the ones that I love to I love

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to make it home. But they're
all driven by simple ingredients. We grow

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chickpeas, lentils. Every year we've
now we're now harvesting fair amount. Just

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00:28:36.839 --> 00:28:41.960
last week we harvested and it was
quite abundant. And it's interesting because every

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year they taste different. There's really
a vintage of the taste of the beans,

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and interesting if you taste one next
to each other you're you, you'd

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you'd understand what I mean, because
every year the climate is different, the

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land is different, and that's reflected
in the taste of the foods. So

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what is Sicilian cuisine? We would
be talking for hours about the history of

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Sicily, about the culture of each
different area, the geography of the different

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00:29:10.039 --> 00:29:15.519
area, and then of the different
social classes, because there's so much mixed

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within Sicily, from the peasant cuisine
to the aristocratic cuisine. And how interestingly

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enough, the peasant cuisine very much
often reflects dishes that come from the aristocratic

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00:29:26.880 --> 00:29:34.160
cuisine. For example, there's a
dish that's called a becafico, which basically

350
00:29:34.279 --> 00:29:38.880
means sardines cooked in the way of
the little birds that are called becafico.

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The aristocratic recipe was that they were
little birds. They were not sardines.

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There were little birds that were stuffed
and and stuffed with breadcrumbs and pine nuts

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00:29:51.839 --> 00:29:56.359
and raisins and cheese and then roasted. The peasant version was to take what

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00:29:56.519 --> 00:30:00.759
was abundant. If you put a
net in the sea, especially in the

355
00:30:00.799 --> 00:30:07.400
springtime, you'll be you'll fill up
that net easily with sardines. So that

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00:30:07.559 --> 00:30:15.839
abundance was then translated into a copying
of a dish that was part of part

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00:30:15.880 --> 00:30:21.359
of an aristocratic cuisine. And there's
just so many of those type of examples.

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There's another examples with caponata. Caponata
comes from the word capone, is

359
00:30:27.720 --> 00:30:36.039
the name of a fish similar to
a small like a machi machi in terms

360
00:30:36.079 --> 00:30:41.640
of the flesh, and kaponata was
first made with that fish, not rede

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00:30:41.680 --> 00:30:45.759
with eggplants. But today it's known
if you say caponata, everyone knows what

362
00:30:45.839 --> 00:30:49.680
that means egg plants, right,
But that's not the origin of the dish.

363
00:30:51.960 --> 00:30:55.799
That's interesting. And it looks sounds
like capon which is a rooster to

364
00:30:56.039 --> 00:31:02.039
us. Yeah, but it's capona
from Pesha. Capona the roosters is a

365
00:31:02.119 --> 00:31:10.279
different word in Italian. It's interesting
when I think of recent visits to Sicily

366
00:31:10.519 --> 00:31:12.519
and also to the southern parts of
Italy. I've got eggplant, and I

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00:31:12.599 --> 00:31:17.000
grew up I hated egg plant as
a child, hated it, but I

368
00:31:17.039 --> 00:31:22.200
actually love it after going to Italy
and specifically to Sicily and to Campania,

369
00:31:22.319 --> 00:31:26.079
which I think I had some of
the best eggplant dishes of my life.

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00:31:26.519 --> 00:31:30.559
Sure, sure, yeah, And
yet a lot of people are toil dated

371
00:31:30.599 --> 00:31:37.759
to use egg plant cook with eggplant
the United States. I feel that a

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00:31:37.880 --> 00:31:42.440
home cook in Sicily probably knows about
this is something I've said often, But

373
00:31:42.640 --> 00:31:45.640
at least you need to know a
hundred ways of how to cook with with

374
00:31:45.759 --> 00:31:52.160
egg plant as a in a Sicilian
home because right now, I mean,

375
00:31:52.240 --> 00:31:55.440
as we speak, this morning I
picked I can't tell you how many egg

376
00:31:55.480 --> 00:31:59.000
plants, and there's more tomorrow to
pick, and more than the next day,

377
00:31:59.519 --> 00:32:02.240
and every day it can't be done
in the same recipe. But tonight

378
00:32:02.319 --> 00:32:07.839
I'm roasting them in the oven very
simply, just very very small. I

379
00:32:07.000 --> 00:32:12.920
harvest them when they're really small,
cut them in half, and then cut

380
00:32:13.000 --> 00:32:17.160
little inserts into them, and put
pieces of garlic, pieces of raw garlic,

381
00:32:17.759 --> 00:32:25.359
some mint, some very age cheese, very harsh age spicy age cheese,

382
00:32:27.079 --> 00:32:30.359
and lots of olive oil and parsley
as well along with the mint,

383
00:32:31.079 --> 00:32:36.640
and then just just roast them in
the oven. And they're just fabulous.

384
00:32:36.680 --> 00:32:39.720
So that that's tonight's dinner. We'll
have to see for tomorrow. I was

385
00:32:39.799 --> 00:32:45.799
thinking of making an egg clint parmigiana, which the classic recipe here is just

386
00:32:46.720 --> 00:32:52.400
slicing them with skin off in this
case, slicing them, frying them and

387
00:32:52.519 --> 00:32:57.920
then topping them with some of tomato
sauce, of course, homemade tomato sauce,

388
00:32:59.160 --> 00:33:02.960
a basic leaf and then just a
sprinkle of age cheese on top.

389
00:33:04.519 --> 00:33:10.240
But why would you have with that, Melissa, Oh, let's see with

390
00:33:10.440 --> 00:33:19.240
that, I probably have our netro
double lan usa, which is which comes

391
00:33:19.319 --> 00:33:25.160
from vines that are thirty five year
old vines that were drafted from the prefiloxeta,

392
00:33:25.240 --> 00:33:29.519
the mother plants. It's not a
while, it's not a dish to

393
00:33:29.599 --> 00:33:37.400
pair with the frucata because the prefiloxida
nero doubla, which needs something more more

394
00:33:37.519 --> 00:33:44.799
hefty and more something meaty, usually
making the lamb or the roasted goat.

395
00:33:45.000 --> 00:33:52.920
When we have the frucata the the
We also produce a wine called petty Cone,

396
00:33:52.279 --> 00:33:57.680
which is quite which has it's fuller
and more spicy, and that that

397
00:33:57.799 --> 00:34:01.720
I usually pair when I when I
make our homemade sausage, which I make

398
00:34:01.920 --> 00:34:07.239
nice full of pepper and full of
black pepper and wild fennel. When you

399
00:34:07.360 --> 00:34:09.400
cook, do you think about obviously
you cook for the season, do you

400
00:34:09.480 --> 00:34:13.360
think about the wine or do you
know when you think about the wine when

401
00:34:13.360 --> 00:34:15.880
you're cooking, or does that I
think we do. I'll give you an

402
00:34:15.880 --> 00:34:19.400
example. We had a Russan.
We had a Russan and refrigerator last night,

403
00:34:19.480 --> 00:34:22.760
and I just all I could do
was think about that wine, and

404
00:34:23.119 --> 00:34:28.039
there was nothing in the refrigerator to
eat that would satisfy what I wanted with

405
00:34:28.119 --> 00:34:30.119
that wine. I ended up going
out and picking up because we kind of

406
00:34:30.159 --> 00:34:32.840
live in a food doesn't right now, I end up picking up this wonderful

407
00:34:32.880 --> 00:34:37.800
tie curry and spicy, pepious salad
because that's all I wanted with that wine.

408
00:34:38.199 --> 00:34:42.320
And so often when we cook,
I think about what the wine is

409
00:34:42.559 --> 00:34:45.840
first versus what we have, although
sometimes it's just what we happen to have

410
00:34:45.960 --> 00:34:47.800
in the refrigerator, and how can
we make it more creative and less every

411
00:34:47.880 --> 00:34:51.840
day, because I think that's a
challenge for a lot of people's, Like

412
00:34:52.239 --> 00:34:54.920
you know, you have an abundance
of eggplant, or abundance of beans,

413
00:34:55.000 --> 00:34:59.599
or abundance of zucchini, how to
make it different every day? But when

414
00:34:59.599 --> 00:35:01.320
we cook, we think about the
wine just because we're wine. No,

415
00:35:01.559 --> 00:35:07.760
absolutely absolutely we do too, But
I think that I think of it as

416
00:35:07.360 --> 00:35:13.920
almost like an ingredient in the dish. So I'm cooking and then thinking pairing

417
00:35:14.000 --> 00:35:19.159
to me is just basically adding another
ingredient into the dish, if if if

418
00:35:19.199 --> 00:35:22.039
that makes sense, And so probably
I think about, you know what,

419
00:35:22.159 --> 00:35:27.719
I'm cooking first, and then the
wine comes from there. We also,

420
00:35:28.079 --> 00:35:31.320
of course, we drink our We
drink our own wines a lot also because

421
00:35:31.679 --> 00:35:37.599
we always do different tastings and we
have bottles open, so we're always tasting

422
00:35:37.639 --> 00:35:42.119
our wines. But we also really
love to taste wines from around the world,

423
00:35:42.199 --> 00:35:47.679
so it's become a bit of a
hobby of ours. And and what's

424
00:35:47.880 --> 00:35:52.920
that also, Oh gosh, so
much. I mean, we're Barolo,

425
00:35:53.119 --> 00:36:04.840
we love and the Burgundy. It's
everything is intriguing. German whites, Austrian

426
00:36:04.920 --> 00:36:08.599
whites. We basically have a little
bit of everything in our little wine cellar.

427
00:36:08.800 --> 00:36:14.880
And when when we have a dish
that's interesting, we figure out what

428
00:36:15.320 --> 00:36:20.480
to open and what to pair with
it. But there's a fun sure,

429
00:36:20.920 --> 00:36:22.960
well yeah, because listen, dinner
doesn't taste good with water. Let's be

430
00:36:23.119 --> 00:36:28.760
real. I understand you have a
vineyard project. So the vineyard at the

431
00:36:28.840 --> 00:36:37.039
moment is forty four hectors and we
just this year just planted the wild vines

432
00:36:37.559 --> 00:36:42.559
for another eight hectors of vineyard.
I think I think you might have when

433
00:36:42.599 --> 00:36:45.559
yeah, when you came in May, you saw the baby vines. Right,

434
00:36:45.639 --> 00:36:47.920
forty four hectors is fairly large.
Just for everybody who doesn't know math,

435
00:36:47.960 --> 00:36:52.639
that's about one hundred and eight acres. It's fairly large. I mean

436
00:36:52.840 --> 00:37:00.599
taking into consideration that we're a family
winery because we're basically a meat small small

437
00:37:00.679 --> 00:37:09.880
the medium sized winery, but still
completely family operated. And it's we have

438
00:37:10.079 --> 00:37:15.639
the request for for the wines,
and we realized that we needed to we

439
00:37:15.760 --> 00:37:21.840
needed to expand just a little bit. So this year we added the eight

440
00:37:21.920 --> 00:37:25.920
hectors. What we do here is
that first we plant wild vines. So

441
00:37:27.079 --> 00:37:31.719
in January we planted those those wild
vines. Wild vines do not produce grapes,

442
00:37:32.599 --> 00:37:37.719
so next week or not even this
Saturday. So in two days from

443
00:37:37.760 --> 00:37:44.400
now, a group of grafters and
the average age is seventy eight years old.

444
00:37:44.519 --> 00:37:46.920
Of the group of grafters who come, there's five of them. And

445
00:37:47.360 --> 00:37:52.559
it's a it's very hard to find
grafters nowadays because it's absolutely a dying art

446
00:37:53.280 --> 00:37:58.199
because if you for for the most
part, when someone wants to plant a

447
00:37:58.280 --> 00:38:01.440
new vineyard, you go to the
nursery garden, or you take the catalog

448
00:38:01.679 --> 00:38:06.840
from a nursery garden and you pick
out which, let's say, clone of

449
00:38:06.920 --> 00:38:09.199
Neto daubla you'd like, you read
the description, you'd like it to be

450
00:38:09.280 --> 00:38:14.360
more disease resistant, or one that
works better at a high altitude, or

451
00:38:14.440 --> 00:38:20.119
one that has more taste of cherry, or so forth. Here Montoni,

452
00:38:20.400 --> 00:38:23.960
the objective is to look at the
past in order to make decisions for the

453
00:38:24.079 --> 00:38:30.239
future. That's my husband's motto and
that's become mine as well. And what

454
00:38:30.400 --> 00:38:35.719
we very consciously decided was if we
plant a new vineyard, and when we

455
00:38:35.840 --> 00:38:39.760
do so, it has to be
planted grafted from the old plants. That

456
00:38:39.920 --> 00:38:45.159
means that we continue the genetic code
of the old plants, which is a

457
00:38:45.280 --> 00:38:52.599
genetic code that's unique to Montoni.
Especially. There's there was there's been research

458
00:38:52.679 --> 00:38:57.920
done on netodabola, which is quite
interesting. There were thirty different specimens of

459
00:38:58.000 --> 00:39:06.519
nedodaubola from around Sicily to can and
within that thirty fifteen different clones were identified

460
00:39:07.320 --> 00:39:09.559
and that was only thirty taken,
so you can imagine if that was expanded.

461
00:39:09.679 --> 00:39:19.119
So fifty percent is very very high
percentage. And the clone that's here

462
00:39:19.159 --> 00:39:22.599
at Montoni is of the Neddle dabola
or of the Neddle mascalaise or so forth,

463
00:39:22.920 --> 00:39:28.440
is what we want to carry forward
genetically. So the only way to

464
00:39:28.519 --> 00:39:31.280
do so, of course, is
to not purchase fines from the nursery garden

465
00:39:31.960 --> 00:39:38.280
and to graft onto the to the
wild vines. So it's an amazing scene.

466
00:39:38.320 --> 00:39:42.639
I'll send you pictures, Melanie from
the over the next few days,

467
00:39:42.920 --> 00:39:46.599
because the whole work job needs to
be done within a ten to ten day

468
00:39:46.679 --> 00:39:52.760
window. They will, the grafters
will come, they'll take the pieces of

469
00:39:53.079 --> 00:40:00.440
the of the old vines. And
what's interesting is we're grafting a part of

470
00:40:00.519 --> 00:40:07.039
the vineyard at the highest point.
We're grafting from old vines that we are

471
00:40:07.119 --> 00:40:09.719
researching right now. We don't even
know the name of the old vines there.

472
00:40:10.000 --> 00:40:15.000
There's some red and some white vines
that we are not sure even what

473
00:40:15.079 --> 00:40:22.519
they are old to to the land, and we're grafting from from them a

474
00:40:22.599 --> 00:40:25.639
part of the of the vineyard.
Well, you know, Melissa, I'm

475
00:40:25.679 --> 00:40:31.559
on your website Fayota Montoni dot it
and you have a wonderful video explanation of

476
00:40:31.719 --> 00:40:35.400
this. I love it because it
says, basically, as you said,

477
00:40:35.880 --> 00:40:37.440
you can set up a vineyard with
two roads to follow. You buy the

478
00:40:37.519 --> 00:40:43.400
plants from the nursery or you propagate
the ancient vines from your vineyards. And

479
00:40:43.800 --> 00:40:46.920
that is like for someone who's not
in the wine business doesn't understand that.

480
00:40:47.079 --> 00:40:52.480
It's like if you had the mother
of a very fine balsamic vinegar, when

481
00:40:52.519 --> 00:40:55.559
to make a really fine balsamic vinegar, you'd have to start with the mother

482
00:40:55.679 --> 00:41:00.880
and you have to propagate. And
that's really what you're doing, is you're

483
00:41:00.960 --> 00:41:06.000
propagating and keep and that is something
very unique to Fayuta Montoni. I want

484
00:41:06.039 --> 00:41:08.840
to underscore that like fifty times because
it is it is labor intensive. I'm

485
00:41:08.920 --> 00:41:14.280
kind of blown away that the grap
that they're seventy eight years old and at

486
00:41:14.400 --> 00:41:16.320
what happens when they die out.
But basically you're taking, as you said,

487
00:41:16.360 --> 00:41:21.280
the genetic code and that takes time. So when you're doing that,

488
00:41:21.440 --> 00:41:29.400
now, when will you actually see
vines producing fruit? Well from by next

489
00:41:29.519 --> 00:41:34.800
year what comes up is the is
what's been grafted on, so in terms

490
00:41:34.840 --> 00:41:37.639
of variety, would be already the
plant by next year, will that grows

491
00:41:37.760 --> 00:41:45.239
will be the variety that we that
we graphed onto the wild plant. By

492
00:41:45.320 --> 00:41:47.960
the time we see fruit could be
let's say the second year that it's planted.

493
00:41:49.039 --> 00:41:53.199
But we cut off those those clusters, so will it will cut them

494
00:41:53.280 --> 00:41:59.480
off in order to strengthen the roots
of those vines. We'll do that for

495
00:41:59.559 --> 00:42:04.159
a few years. So the first
sign of of of grapes that we could

496
00:42:04.679 --> 00:42:08.159
could look at will be about five
years down the road. But it's it's

497
00:42:08.199 --> 00:42:13.320
really for a long term project.
It's a it's a vineer that we planted

498
00:42:14.320 --> 00:42:21.840
so so that our sons can have
can can can harvest the fruits as they

499
00:42:21.920 --> 00:42:24.480
grow up. Because it's really,
uh, it's a project that we look

500
00:42:24.519 --> 00:42:30.039
at. It's a forty year project. It's not it's not something that you

501
00:42:30.119 --> 00:42:35.599
look at for next year. We're
already already making wine. I think it's

502
00:42:35.639 --> 00:42:40.760
important score this is this is a
labor of love. This is you know,

503
00:42:40.960 --> 00:42:45.119
looking at the genetics of wine.
And it is not like the wine

504
00:42:45.239 --> 00:42:49.960
that are most people in the United
States are seeing on shelves the supermarkets,

505
00:42:50.000 --> 00:42:52.760
which is you know, like the
equivalent of fast food wine. Half the

506
00:42:52.840 --> 00:42:55.840
time. This is wine that is
you know, they're slow cooking this is

507
00:42:57.039 --> 00:43:04.119
slow cultivation and evolution of of of
of vine and it's quite fascinating and like

508
00:43:04.199 --> 00:43:07.920
a lot of people don't understand that, but this is how we do everything

509
00:43:07.039 --> 00:43:12.159
on the farm. It's I know, of course you focus on focus on

510
00:43:12.199 --> 00:43:15.440
the wine, but that's the heritage
grains. We save our grain year the

511
00:43:15.519 --> 00:43:21.039
year. That's that's a strain of
grain that it is not found everywhere and

512
00:43:21.159 --> 00:43:29.719
it's not a regular modern version genetically
modified dorm wheat. The tomatoes that the

513
00:43:29.800 --> 00:43:35.320
tomato plants I have the seeds that
are from very old old versions. Even

514
00:43:35.480 --> 00:43:40.800
the vinegar that I make that I
use in my caponata has a mother mother

515
00:43:40.960 --> 00:43:49.079
vinegar that came from my husband's great
aunts, a great uncle's mother, so

516
00:43:49.239 --> 00:43:53.679
it goes back over a century ago. That to us is the basis of

517
00:43:53.800 --> 00:43:58.840
everything, and it's I don't know
if the excitement comes through in my voice,

518
00:43:58.920 --> 00:44:04.199
but I how I could express that. It's just the driving force between

519
00:44:04.559 --> 00:44:07.239
of what we do, and it's
what I could only have dreamed of doing

520
00:44:07.559 --> 00:44:12.960
as a child, going back to
when I was twelve years old cooking in

521
00:44:13.039 --> 00:44:19.159
our home to fill fill the home
with the scent of sicily. Today I'm

522
00:44:19.239 --> 00:44:23.920
able to do that, and today
I'm able to realize the realize those dreams

523
00:44:23.960 --> 00:44:29.960
and it's just a true blessing.
You really are living the agreement. David

524
00:44:29.960 --> 00:44:35.000
and I were blessed because you sent
us once this incredible care package with the

525
00:44:35.079 --> 00:44:37.159
most amazing pasta and chick We still
have some of those chickweys. We actually,

526
00:44:37.360 --> 00:44:39.480
you know, we fight over when
to use them because we keep we

527
00:44:39.519 --> 00:44:45.079
want to hold on to everything and
honeys and the brunt these pistache Sicilian pistachios

528
00:44:45.119 --> 00:44:50.440
and honey and everything is just amazing. Can you do you? Can you

529
00:44:50.719 --> 00:44:52.039
do? You sell your products?
Is there a way for anyone in the

530
00:44:52.119 --> 00:44:54.760
United States to get your food products? And you can get the wines,

531
00:44:54.800 --> 00:45:00.320
but what about the food. Well, what we've done now is we've we've

532
00:45:00.920 --> 00:45:06.239
sold on very smaller scale and to
some of our partners around the world that

533
00:45:06.360 --> 00:45:12.119
have organic shops or really focus on
the organic, especially with our olive oil

534
00:45:12.320 --> 00:45:17.159
or the lentils. But we have
made the decision to also package and sell

535
00:45:17.320 --> 00:45:22.199
on the more small scale some of
our some of these products, like the

536
00:45:22.280 --> 00:45:27.800
pastas, the tomato sauces. It's
just that it's we don't want it to

537
00:45:29.000 --> 00:45:32.400
take away from our focus on the
wine because it's in order to make wine

538
00:45:32.480 --> 00:45:37.440
that to make good wine, it
really takes our dedication and being a family,

539
00:45:37.920 --> 00:45:44.039
family operated business. It's those three
hundred and sixty five daste a year

540
00:45:44.559 --> 00:45:49.440
and are not going to the beaches
and are not taking vacations, and it's

541
00:45:49.480 --> 00:45:54.480
this. It's full time dedicated to
that and to tasting all the tanks every

542
00:45:54.559 --> 00:46:00.039
ten days, and to being a
part in the of the seller operations day

543
00:46:00.159 --> 00:46:07.800
today. So our other products are
where I have a huge passion for them

544
00:46:07.960 --> 00:46:12.039
and I put I put energy into
them, but of course we don't want

545
00:46:12.079 --> 00:46:15.639
them to take away from our main
focus, which which is it's the wines,

546
00:46:16.159 --> 00:46:21.519
and that's why I do small scale. So this year, in terms

547
00:46:21.559 --> 00:46:28.320
of tomatoes, I have one hector
of tomatoes planted. The lentils which are

548
00:46:28.519 --> 00:46:34.360
easier to cultivate and easier to easier
to manage on a large scale. We

549
00:46:35.079 --> 00:46:38.840
seated the ten hectors more or less
this year. But everything has to be

550
00:46:39.000 --> 00:46:45.039
proportioned in order to keep wine our
focus. You know, I'm going to

551
00:46:45.159 --> 00:46:50.480
underscores. We start to wind down
this wonderful conversation. This is a very

552
00:46:50.800 --> 00:46:54.679
special place in the heart and soul
and center of Italy, which I David

553
00:46:54.679 --> 00:47:00.639
and I are blessed to have visited. Blest for those of you who do

554
00:47:00.880 --> 00:47:05.559
decide to come to Italy, whether
you visit Fayota Montoni or not, you

555
00:47:05.639 --> 00:47:07.920
can get the wines in Italy and
in the United States. But when you

556
00:47:08.119 --> 00:47:14.519
travel, wherever you travel, go
off the beaten track to the heart and

557
00:47:14.719 --> 00:47:16.960
soul of a region. Don't just
stay where all the tourists are on the

558
00:47:17.079 --> 00:47:22.440
coast or in the big city exactly. You won't meet the real You'll you'll

559
00:47:22.440 --> 00:47:24.039
see the soul, but you won't
see the heart, and that, I

560
00:47:24.119 --> 00:47:29.159
think is what is special about Fayota
Montoni. There's a soul throughout Sicily,

561
00:47:29.280 --> 00:47:31.079
but you're in the heart. You're
in a It's a beating heart of what's

562
00:47:31.119 --> 00:47:35.360
happening in a living, working farm
and family. And I feel that's what

563
00:47:35.559 --> 00:47:38.840
I felt when I was there.
Well, your words are very, very

564
00:47:38.920 --> 00:47:45.119
beautiful and very touching to me because
it's exactly what I feel. But I'm

565
00:47:45.159 --> 00:47:47.719
not always sure if everyone else feels
the same. But the fact that you

566
00:47:47.840 --> 00:47:53.599
felt that way when you came to
came to Failda Montoni confirms how I feel

567
00:47:54.199 --> 00:47:59.840
about living here. And about dedicating
my life to this land, and it's

568
00:48:00.159 --> 00:48:02.559
it's also a life that's dedicated not
only to this land, but to this

569
00:48:02.960 --> 00:48:09.880
beating heart of Sicily that really needs
attention, it really needs to be not

570
00:48:10.079 --> 00:48:15.880
forgotten, because if anything about about
the work we do, it's about bringing

571
00:48:16.119 --> 00:48:22.159
life to the territory and not letting
it be abandoned because it could easily be

572
00:48:22.320 --> 00:48:28.960
so, but that's not that's obviously
not what our objective is. And I

573
00:48:29.119 --> 00:48:34.000
hope that in my next book,
which is basically it's basically all of my

574
00:48:34.239 --> 00:48:37.239
field work. We could call it, but a collection of my diaries from

575
00:48:37.280 --> 00:48:42.880
the past years, I hope that
I can best represent what this beating heart

576
00:48:42.960 --> 00:48:46.599
of the of the core of Sicily
means, and not only what it means

577
00:48:46.679 --> 00:48:52.039
to me, but how it's a
reflection an example for the rest of the

578
00:48:52.159 --> 00:48:55.159
world in today's modern world. Well, you're a beautiful writer. Again,

579
00:48:55.199 --> 00:48:59.519
I just want to underscore that the
book that is available right now is Sicily.

580
00:49:00.079 --> 00:49:02.039
It's by Risoli, The Cookbook,
and it is fabulous. I can't

581
00:49:02.079 --> 00:49:06.280
wait to read your next one.
I love the fact that you followed your

582
00:49:06.360 --> 00:49:09.000
heart to the place you want to
be, because that is what I'm all

583
00:49:09.039 --> 00:49:15.679
about is helping people follow their heart
and live the life they choose, and

584
00:49:15.760 --> 00:49:19.639
I love the fact that you've done
that. Thank you so much for joining

585
00:49:19.719 --> 00:49:23.119
me. I'm getting hungry just thinking
about everything. I can't wait to visit,

586
00:49:23.119 --> 00:49:27.039
see you again, see you and
Fabio and the family again. Until

587
00:49:27.079 --> 00:49:30.559
then, I toast to everything you're
doing. Thank you, Melanie, and

588
00:49:30.599 --> 00:49:34.719
thank you for having me. And
I warmly, warmly welcome you and David

589
00:49:34.800 --> 00:49:39.519
Beck as soon as possible. This
is your retreat and wherever whenever you want

590
00:49:39.559 --> 00:49:45.119
to come stay for an extended period
of time, You're more than welcome to

591
00:49:45.199 --> 00:49:49.599
do so. Thank you. I
appreciate it. And good luck with harvest

592
00:49:49.719 --> 00:49:52.159
this year. All right, thank
you, thank you. I'll keep you

593
00:49:52.280 --> 00:49:55.719
posted definitely what some photograph says,
we graft and as we harvest. All

594
00:49:55.840 --> 00:50:02.679
right, thank you very much.
Thank you. You stand up that box,

595
00:50:04.639 --> 00:50:10.800
make you mine, and your stand
up roster down, your stand u

